Apparently, the IKEA girl told me that these are now being replaced with LED version from now on.
Checked out at $2.99 each today.
Two box full were present at IKEA Tempe today.
Might be worth while stocking up a few.
Specs
Bulb life approx. 10,000 hours.
Energy efficient class A.
Not dimmable.
IKEA. ES1206L20. Energy Efficiency Class: A. Energy Consumption: 20KWh/1000h.
You need to compare their Watt numbers, but LED bulbs also last longer.
If the $9 LED is 11W, 2777 Hours, or 115 Days, or 1.27 years if you use your light for exactly six hours every day.
I replaced my 15W fluro's with 13W Phillips LED's. The LED's are dramatically brighter and produce a nicer "warm" white. I personally like living in a nice, bright home compared to the depressingly dank atmosphere my fluro's provided. YMMV.
Interesting, what did the Phillips LEDs cost and where can you buy them?
Problem is saving only 2 watts means every 10,000 hours you save less than $6. But brighter is good.
I prefer the light from LED globes. Main drawback though i find, is that the LED light is more focused, not as diffused as other globes, which means there are darker areas in my room, the light is best right underneath it..
I cannot remember for sure but I think the LED lights last about 30% longer than these other longlife globes.
You can get more diffused LEDs. It also depends on the lamp fitting you're using though.
I love high-CRI LEDs. Cheap low-CRI LEDs look pretty awful. Skin tones can look sickly yellow for warm white bulbs, or have a strange green/blue tinge for white or cool white bulbs.
A halogen bulb is 100 CRI, a cheap LED can be 75-80. Better ones are mid 80s, anything higher is quite rare.
Fluro tubes are available up to 98 CRI.
LEDs are meant to last about 30,000 hours. A fluro tube is about 16,000-20,000 hours, a CFL about 8,000 hours.
This might only be of interest to you eug…
Back when exposed-tube compact fluorescents like those in this deal were first introduced, I quickly knew that I was in going to be in some strife as far as eye-strain was concerned.
I thought it might be the levels of ultraviolet given off by bare fluoros (of all kinds), but neither covered fittings or - in simple fittings - the introduction of globe-encased CFL's like Philips Soft-tones made much difference. All purchased - of various brands and types - relegated to rooms where I didn't read or work.
Beyond the fundamentally dodgy approximation / average of white light that all fluoros produce by way of their phosphor spikes, I figured that the somewhat higher colour temperature + low CRI of all CFL's relative to incandescents were the issues I was dealing with. Halogens weren't the answer for me, incidentally, colour-temperature-wise.
I've gathered much over the last few years by trial and error, but the stocking-up of incandescent bulbs just before their disappear of the shelves was a smart decision, that I discovered - almost too late - had been made by LOTS of other people in a similar situation. I still use some incandescent lighting in the mix in some rooms I spend alot of time in.
Early LED's (and current mainstream ones) were not the answer. I tried several different types, but any improvement over CFL lighting for me was slight as regards eyestrain. The fact that even the warmest were no warmer, and the CRI of anything vaguely affordable, no higher, made for much - still expensive - disappointment.
The whole area of CRI determination specific to claimed-high-CRI-LED's (cheap or otherwise) is incredibly fraught - the more you read, the murkier and more esoteric the whole topic gets.
That aside, I bought about ten of these Verbatim high-CRI GU10's www.ebay.com.au/itm/181083674532 about eighteen months ago and have used them in my lighting mix to good effect. Neither cheap, nor of particularly high output, but they have made a big difference for me, day-to-day, or should I say, night-to-night…
I should add that when I'm up very late reading or working, I do use an incandescent car tail-light bulb in the mix (yep) running just off a 12 volt plugpack. Helps to reduce the colour temperature in the room to overall old-school incandescent levels, which assists in not further screwing-up my (already comprehensively screwed) melatonin cycle.
Occupational hazard by choice, or otherwise, for all night-owls…
Interestingly enough I do agree with what you said.
The colour temperature of the bulb matters alot.
I found my self "uncomfortable" over the long run in my kitchen LED GU10 setup. But boy, it does make the food look succulent.
But the Fluoro light in living room is warm enough for me to stay and use as a background light while I watch TV for hours.
Just be aware that colour temperature and CRI (Colour Rendering Index) are two very different things and measures. CRI speaks to the balance and complexity in the spectrum of light that's emitted, well beyond basic 'warm' or 'cool' degrees Kelvin rating.
Standard batten-strip fluoros and all CFL bulbs that I've every seen, contain only three phosphors with narrow spectrum spikes and like cheap standard LED's (for different reasons) don't come anywhere close to an acceptable CRI for my eyes.
It's both the temperature, and equally / moreso the light spectrum issue, that has given me such grief.
Others - apart from eug - in the thread, may not quite understand just what they (may) be missing, and - nasty cost factor aside - just what a difference it could make for them. Hence the long blurb above…
OK, you're definitely the most CRI-fussy person I've seen. I thought I was fussy! :)
I'm reasonably satisfied with good triphosphor lamps.
I never knew Verbatim sold LED bulbs! I wonder if they manufacture them or just rebadge them. The specs look good - 95CRI at 2700K is probably as close as it gets to halogen. Pity about the 30 degree spread though.
Car tail-light bulb … that's definitely a first. Hats off to your dedication!
Verbatim/Mitsubishi have an extensive lighting range - growing profile overseas, but not here yet. Distinct products - no rebadging going on that I can discern, anyway.
The GU10's linked are built like a tank and very heavy. Narrow angle of light is unfortunate, but I use a couple as spots in gooseneck clamp fittings and direct/bounce the light around that way.
Worth mentioning the lack of EMI issues - still a problem with some LED lighting people are buying even now. I certainly experienced some horrors with it in the past.
Car bulb running at 12 instead of 14+ car volts makes for a very warm, just usefully bright, and very long-lasting addition.
Most of my remaining stash of mains incandescent globes struggle to last 500hrs. I reckon the car bulbs are making it to about the 3000hr mark, which ain't too bad - at least when factoring in all the other lighting hassles I've experienced…
I think you bought it overpriced … XDDD
It seems you bought 2 for $5.98
http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/10164487/
it is $4.99 for 1 ,$5.99 for 3
lol what's the logic behind this…
Actually if you read the specs of the 3 pack, they are different
Not dimmable.
Energy efficient class A.
Bulb life approx. 6,000 hours.
IKEA. ES0811L11. Energy Efficiency Class: A. Energy Consumption: 11KWh/1000h.
The three pack one is 11W though.
OP bought 20W bulbs. Your link is for 11W only - different things.
Personally, I would not "stock up" on CFLs, because they're more expensive to run that LEDs, in my experience they last nothing like the amount of hours promised on the box, and LEDs are getting cheaper to buy by the month (not to mention the heat generation difference; OK in winter, but no good in summer!). So a stock-pile of CFLs could end up being a bit of an albatross around your neck… Particularly as LEDS get cheaper and brighter by the moneth… The only real drawback of LEDS at the moment is that you cannot readily mount the "lumen equivalent" of 100W incandescent bulbs in standard fittings… but surely this will change in the next couple of years? Or am I wrong about that for some technical reason I'm unaware of? Happy to stand corrected, and I realise that curiously, light bulb preference seems to be quite a "personal" thing…
There is not that much difference in power usage between CFL and LED as there was between CFL and incandescent. It is only a few watts, single digits not 50-70 like before.
Also I am hearing lots of stories about poor quality LEDs with short lifetimes. Yes in theory LEDs should last 30,000 or more hours but most now do not come even close.
I cannot justify LEDs yet, brand name ones cost $20-$30 while good CFLs can be $5 or less.
Anyone else with ideas?
Hi SamR, I'd be interested to know what you base this statement on:
"… in theory LEDs should last 30,000 or more hours but most now do not come even close."
Bear in mind that an entire year only contains 8760 hours, and LED globes for home use have not been available for very long… 30,000 hours thus = well over 3 years of continuous use. Your post implies that you've heard "lots of stories" of LED globes 'popping'/failing before that. So who have you heard these "lots of stories" from, and in what contexts? Super-cheap LEDS "bought-for-a-song, from-Hong-Kong" maybe? I'm not trying to antagonise anyone at all, I'm just interested in what actual evidence/ products you're basing your post/opinion on.
The stories are mainly from here and yes involve "Super-cheap LEDS "bought-for-a-song".
So I have surmised you need to be very discerning about where you buy them, the brand name ones are all almost $20 each for ones of decent wattage. Good CLFs can cost $3.
That with the small power saving over CFL bulbs means payback will be years away.
The main issue that I have with LED's is that, their radiance is not as "thorough" as these Fluoro's. Most LED's that is within my budget have very "focused" beams.
Prefer the light from a normal clear glass bulb. Although I don't like the bills that go with it.
Just so u guys know. There was another batch of these IKEA led e27 bulbs in the bargain corner at sprigvale on Friday…
Just to let you know. Aldi always has their twin pack for about $5.79, so less that $3 each.
This is not a bargain in my opinion
If an LED bulb is $9 in comparison, do you know how long would it take to save the difference in electricity?
Or is that not the point? Do you prefer CFL?