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60x Assorted 5-30A ATT APS Mini/Micro/Low-Profile Blade Fuses for Car/Boat - $8.42 Delivered @ Vicoffroad eBay

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60x Assorted 5-30A ATT APS Mini/Micro/Low-Profile Blade Fuses for Car/Boat - $8.42 Delivered @ Vicoffroad eBay
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SteveAndBelle on 02/09/2015 - 09:27 ebay.com.au (353 clicks)
Last edited 02/09/2015 - 12:40 by 1 other user

Accidentally blew a fuse in my car last night while installing a custom hidden Power Supply for my front & rear G1W-C DashCams. Used one of the in-car spares to get it all back up and running but thought I'd better get a pack of micro fuses as I'm sure I'll need them in the future ;) Had a quick look around and found SuperCheap to be exactly the opposite of their namesake. Had a look on eBay and found a few nice packs but they seemed to be anything around $15-$50 for basically the same thing. I then stumbled across these and thought they were worthy of a submission as no-one else comes close to this price! Sure, they're usually only $9.90 at this eBay store but these are the cheapest I've seen locally and are nearly as cheap as buying direct from China (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/60pcs-Assorted-Auto-Car-Low-Profi…)

'Deal' or 'No Deal', I'm not fussed but hope this helps someone else.

Automotive ATT APS Blade Fuse Car

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  • Bargain Buyer on 02/09/2015 - 09:54

    Really good deal, thanks for this deal, immediate buy!

    • SteveAndBelle on 02/09/2015 - 10:07
      +1

      Yeah thanks. Was considering not bothering posting here because it isn't much cheaper than their 'normal price' but it's still a bargain when compared to other sellers. Glad to have helped!

      • Bargain Buyer on 02/09/2015 - 10:15

        Yeah the 8 bucks goes a long way though"

  • Unclefugger on 02/09/2015 - 09:54

    Looks like a good deal to me. Shame they don't have other size fuses as well.

    • SteveAndBelle on 02/09/2015 - 10:10

      Tell me about it. I install stuff in cars for friends & family and it'd be great to get a collection of all types of fuses but sheesh I'd need an entire cabinet to hold them thanks to all the new different varieties :)

  • Rakddon on 02/09/2015 - 10:17

    Picture is of a standard blade fuse but listing says mini.

    Most cars use micro: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-A…

    so what is the seller selling???

    • SteveAndBelle on 02/09/2015 - 10:20

      Nope, these are known as 'Mini' Blades to some, 'Micro' Blades to others, 'ATT' to others and 'APS' to others still! I do know that these are classed as 'Low Profile' which is what I need for my new-ish Corolla. Not sure if they're all these different types are swappable but what I need is exactly the same as what's in the pic and are exactly the same as the ones in your link. They're 11mm x 4mm and only 8/9mm from top to bottom so I guess these ones sink into the sockets a little more than the standards? I don't know for sure but these are exactly the same as the ones in your SuperCheap link… just far cheaper :) If only SuperCheap gave more info like measurements or used the proper terms for their products (ie. ATT/APS) the world would be a better place… but they'd still be more expensive anyway ;)

      EDIT: There's a bit more information on the following Wiki page however even this states these fuses as a 'Low Profile Mini Fuse' not a 'Micro' so who knows?! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)

  • Sergeant Salami on 02/09/2015 - 11:16
    +1

    Wreckers have them for free!

    • SteveAndBelle on 02/09/2015 - 11:21

      Ha, yeah! I used to love going to Wreckers and climbing all over the teetering stacks of cars with toolbox in hand then spending hours removing the parts myself… but alas here in Brisbane they've all but gone and Health & Safety has 'wrecked' the fun for everyone. The remaining Wreckers now charge an entrance fee to let you walk around their extremely limited stock of already stripped bare cars so it's kinda pointless :(

  • pb924 on 02/09/2015 - 12:01

    Thanks for the idea. I've been wanting to replace the Bosch torpedo fuses in my old classic with blades but the standard blades are too tall even after modifying the fusebox. These low-profiles might be the answer.

    Now to find some holders.

  • shmahoo on 02/09/2015 - 13:26

    These deals won't last. Some bright spark comes up with the idea, but then burns out just as quickly as soon as they reach slightly beyond their potential. At least it's a current deal.

    • theguyrules on 02/09/2015 - 13:27
      +1

      Forced.

      • shmahoo on 02/09/2015 - 13:37
        +2

        I should have cut out earlier?

        • theguyrules on 02/09/2015 - 13:41
          +1

          haha I'll give you that one mate.

  • tdw on 02/09/2015 - 14:51

    OP: can you please give us more info on your custom dashcam power supply setup? :)

    • SteveAndBelle on 02/09/2015 - 15:30
      +1

      Ha, OK! Not wanting wires & cables all over my dash and not wanting to lose the convenience of the Cigarette Lighter/AUX Power Outlet by having something permanently plugged in I decided to build a small 5V power supply capable of running both the front & rear G1W-CB Cameras simultaneously. I boxed it up in a tiny little plastic project box with its own fuse, mounted it inside the dash so it's out of view & harms way and soldered it to the power wires that feed the Cigarette Lighter socket. I had to extend the cable for the rear camera by about 1m but that was obviously easy and once done I then tucked both cables up the passengers side pillar then up into the roof lining and across to each camera. Works perfectly and now very neat & tidy.

      You can buy hardwired versions of the Power Supplies specifically for these cameras but they cost a fortune ($20): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC12V-36V-To-5V-Hard-wire-Power-S… but as they're just basic DC-DC converters with a Mini-USB plug you can get them as cheap as this (approx. $4): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1Meter-DC-12V-24V-to-5V-3A-Left-A… (longer cable lengths & different angles available)… however if you're handy with a soldering iron and don't mind putting in a bit of effort you can just do what I did and get one of these Adjustable DC-DC Buck Modules, throw one in a box with a fuse and be done with it: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Mo… I used to build my own voltage regulators/converters but there's no point now as these are soooo much better, smaller, cheaper and are instantly ready to use! Just feed one side with 12V then adjust the screw to get the exact voltage from the output side. So easy!

      My custom Power Supply actually contained two DC-DC Modules, one for 5V and another for 12V as I wanted a nice clean regulated 12V feed to power a DAB+ Tuner module and its Amplified Digital Antenna so my install was a bit more complex than most but decided to do it all at the same time and put it all in the same box. Worked out very well.

      • tdw on 03/09/2015 - 01:14

        interesting and very detailed! :D

        sadly, i'm hopeless with soldering (ok, never actually tried).
        what i want to do is have them hardwired to my fuse box so they turn on when the ignition does.

        my radar detector is set up this way, although it did come with its own hardwire kit; i only had to buy a fuse tap and some fuses.

        hardwiring my current two dashcams would involve meddling with the ciggy socket adapter. or a simpler solution would be to hook them up with one of those powerbank jumpstarters with a cig socket adapter.

        i look forward to the day when dashcams can be better integrated as part of the car's electrical system :)

  • Herp on 02/09/2015 - 16:35

    Can't speak for the quality of these specific ones but be cautious with very cheap fuses, there are documented cases of them causing fires due to improper manufacturing (i.e. they don't pop when they should).

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/09/auto_fuses.htm…

    • SteveAndBelle on 02/09/2015 - 16:52

      Very good point but the problem is this could happen with any fuse so unless they can quickly & easily be non-destructively tested by the normal person then it's difficult if not impossible to know for sure. Only way forward I suppose would be to install chains of 2-3 fuses in series for each circuit and use a fuse from a different manufacturer in each holder. Double redundancy would help but it's unlikely anyone would bother doing that. I suppose a sensitive breaker on the main feed to the fusebox could be a better idea.

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