Buying cars that have done 200,000 km and above

If the price is much cheaper by 2000 to 3000 dollars than a comparable same model and year car.

Is it a good idea to :

-Buy cars that have done 200,000 km and above

closed Comments

  • +2

    may depend on whether it has had logbook servicing

    • +9

      …and the purchase price.

      If it's a $2-3k car then it might be worthwhile save…if we're talking about $1-2k off a $20-30k+ car, I'd be saying that the risk & potential impact on future resale might be false economy.

      • car is in the 7 to 10k range.

        • Do you mind if I ask the age of the vehicle?

        • +4

          1 or 2 thousand isnt a big discount. how many km's has the normal $7000 cars done?

        • @PVA:

          not sure,

          i just know that this car is cheaper by 1 to 2k compared to the same year car.

          though this car lacks extras of some of those more expensive cars e.g.
          -metalic color paint
          -mag wheels

        • +16

          @tyler.durden: Yes, it does matter.

          200k km over 10yrs is only 20k/yr, so average use. 200k over 1yr would be a different story, you'd want to be asking yourself if it was used as a taxi or similar, in which case it's probably copped a fair flogging.

        • @StewBalls:


          well it is definitely not 200k over 1yr

          but is it worth getting 200,000 km car if it was used about averagely but is cheaper by 1 to 2k?

          I think a comparable car could be about 165 to 180,000 km…
          not 100%…

          But from what u are saying, i think it had average use.

        • @tyler.durden: PVA pretty much summed it up, I happen to agree.

        • @tyler.durden:
          cant really compare then.
          and as stewballs asked, what year is the car as it makes a difference.

          a 10 yer old car with 20000km is sus but 150000 would be normal.

          link to one of the cars for sale (or similar car)

        • -9


          question is

          it is worth buying knowing that is 200,000 km
          but u save 1 to 2k compared to similiar model?

          in terms of age,
          when u say 10 years old,
          do u mean it is a 2006 model?

        • +10

          how many km has the similar ones done?
          you have an open ended questions that is too hard to answer.
          how long is a piece of string?

          edit , looks like you edited your reply before I posted.

          yes, how old means how old is the car, not sure what else it could mean.

        • +12

          all things being equal, if one car has 100,000km and another has 200,000 but only $1000 cheaper I would buy the 100,000km car but as many have said it isnt that simple.
          even you say the dearer car has alloy wheels and metalic paint - there's at least $1k there.

        • +4

          Some cars are more reliable than others. If its, say a toyota with 200k's vs a suzuki with 200k. One of them is much more likely to last. Also, things like timing belts, etc.

          If the 1-2k is a significant km's difference, just throw in the extra $$. That said, the more expensive car might also have issues.

        • +11

          You're not giving enough information for people to make a recommendation. The details make all the difference. If it's a small cheap car such as a Hyundai I wouldn't touch one with over 200kkm for that sort of discount however if you're comparing a bigger car such as a Falcon or Commodore and could save money getting one with 200kkm vs 160kkm I'd be more inclined to say go for it as the bigger, less techy engines tend to last longer. How it's been driven / serviced plays a big part too.

          Some cars you'd be crazy to get with that many k's, such as a luxury European car that might be cheap to buy but will cost you the purchase price with the first major mechanical issue.

        • +3

          @ATangk: Suzukis are fine IMO, Japanese, make great bikes, maybe you should have said "Holden" (or Daewoo)

        • Just over a year ago, I bought an 02 Elantra with 211000km and it's been fine.
          Car $800.
          New plugs/oil/filters $90 DIY service.
          New timing belt/water pump/other belts at workshop $650.

          I did the latter as insurance because yes, the service records were patchy.

    • I remember the first car I bought in Australia on my second day in here. I just walked across the road there was a servicing place. I asked if they have any cars to sell. The guy showed me a Honda Accord which was fully functional and had 230k on the odometer. The log book only had servicing entries for first 3 years when the car was under warranty. I bought it paying $3000 and had it for 6 years. Later my wife used it to drop and pickup kids from school. Never had a single issue for 6 years. When I had 2 new cars I gave it to a friends brother for $800. He is using it everyday till today for past 3 years.
      I was very happy with that car and for the money I saved with that.

      • +1

        I suppose by the time the car had proven itself it would have been too late to bother with the tattslotto ticket.

  • Engine could've been replaced with a newer one.

    • based on what reason?
      more km usually means cheaper
      engine replacement would be in the ops favor but id still be asking for all work paperwork before purchase etc

      • For many reasons, old engine could've given out a while ago and replaced at that time with the intention to drive the car for another 200k. I don't think Google Chrome necessarily meant it was replaced just before posting an ad for sale.

        My first car had over 200k clocked on it but the logbook showed a new engine was installed after the first 150k.

        • thats what i was getting at

          any work should have log book evidence

  • +1

    many factors here

    if you are buying a hybrid expect batteries to be replaced within a few years maybe less

    Gearbox and engine might be worn out or on the way out (4 cylinders especially)

    Depending on what car it is and the life its had will be very dependant on km driven

    Ensure all servicing has been done
    not just minor but major servicing and check all pages are stamped, missed pages or information may ring lack of care issues

    my best bet would be to research what you want and find out the service interval for major parts (timing belts, pumps and filterd etc)

    lots of ex taxi fords and commodores out there which will run well beyond 200k if you look after it

    although spending an extra grand on a car may save you 2000 in repairs so theres that side too

  • +2

    Depends entirely on the individual car.
    Be warned, if some serious problem occurs, $2000 wont get you an awful lot of mechanical work done.

  • +1

    if it was 200,000 on a diesel I wouldnt be fussed especially if its in a toyota, mitsi, ford, isuzu. Id be more concern about the running gear, gearbox, diff, transfer case etc.

  • No way of knowing for sure until you or someone you trust checks it out. Some common problems around that time would be the transmission, or the engine gaskets.
    But likewise, these could happen on cars with low kilometerage. If a cars not driven much, or only driven for short periods of time, water can accumulate in the oils and in exhaust system, and never gets to boil off.

  • I agree with captobvious, if it is a diesel, kms don't matter, or if it is an ex-taxi in good condition. Most taxis are serviced frequently.

    • +2

      Unless it has a DPF system installed and then you could be in for a world of pain.

  • +13

    Comparing used cars isn't as simple as answering 1 particular question. Way too many variables on this.

  • Just my opinion- I would say it depends on the brand. If it was a Chery or Great Wall… don't touch it. If it is a Subaru, Toyota or some other reliable Jap brand wouldn't be too worried. Or as a few people have said, if it's a diesel not so much of a worry; although diesels can known to be more expensive to fix…

    • have those cars even hit 180-200 yet?? hahahah

  • +2

    I've owned a Toyota with over 300,000km which was looked after and it drove better then identical models with less then half the km, it's got a lot to do with maintenance and previous owners driving style.

    • +1

      What a feeling ! Toyota :)

    • I had a 1992 Corolla with 400,000km on the clock. Original engine and clutch!

      • My first Toyota was a second hand Corona 1976, kept for 13 years, my last Toyota was 86, bought brand new in 2012, now WRX 2015 :)

      • +1

        I guess you bought it after realising that it was more reliable than your brand new Daewoo :-p

  • I have to agree with @paulq00. If your buying a car 10+ years old (the golden era of depreciation) it's more important to consider the vehicle/brand reliability as a selection criteria.

    say for instance you were comparing the following two cars:
    toyota camry
    holden cruze

    I would take the older toyota (with more kms) every day of the week given the choice between these two vehicles. The cruze has a cheap build quality and expensive repairs are more likely imho.

    there is much more to a car than an odometer

  • Nope. You'll spend more than 2 or 3 grand on repairs/services within the first 24 months. Book it.

  • +2

    I wouldn't touch a car with 200,000km or above,doesn't matter how cheap they are :)

    • +1

      And Thankyou for keeping them cheaper! Seriously, cars can easily run past 200,000km, especially modern ones with at have been maintained. On top of that businesses are running vehicles longer/more km because they are getting more reliable.

      My forester has 220,000km and runs fine. I've had it for around 4 years and have only had a wheel bearing replaced other than routine maintenance.

      • Yeah,Subaru make fantastic cars,quality and reliability, I had a 2001 WRX bought brand new for 12 years,never miss a beat,now driving 20015 WRX,Turbo,AWD and Manual,love it,but if I buy a second car,I will try to get the one with lowest kms if possible :)

        • +5

          now driving 20015 WRX

          And its a time machine!

        • @roguescholar: haha, nice pick, I mean 2015,love it,hope you have one too :)

    • We had a Prado with 350k on it. Nothing wrong with it, apart from the leather on the steering wheel falling apart. V6's are robust in the long run.

      • Because it's Toyota,one of the best and largest car manufacturing in the world,what I try to said,if I buy a second hand car,I will avoid cars that over 200,000km :)

  • +4

    What about a train with 200,000km I could also afford?

  • +6

    OP, you have not provided enough information to give a realistic educated answer.

    If you want a real answer, provide a comparison between the 200,000km vehicle and the apparent "other" vehicle that is less than 200,000km yet is more expensive.

    Questions that need answering:
    Log books?
    How many KMs on the apparent "other"/"comparable" car?
    What make/model are the cars?
    How long is a piece of string?

    You can absolutely get an OK car with over 200,000 kms but the price and history has to be right. If it has been looked after, it can be a better buy than a car with less KMs that had not been looked after.

    But again - Give us useful information or be prepared for a stupid answer.

  • +5

    A generic question like this really is a waste of time -

    You might as well just give the exact specs of what you are comparing with.

  • +2

    Is it a good idea to :

    -Buy cars that have done 200,000 km and above

    No, better to buy a much newer car if savings is only $1- $2k for a comparable car.

  • +12

    CORRECT ANSWER: It depends.

    Ask a vague question, get a vague answer.

    A real world example with details about the car itself, age, previous drivers, etc, makes a BIG difference. A regularly serviced Ford Falcon that was driven by an elderly couple that has done 200k will be loads more reliable than a modified, rarely serviced Turbo Subaru WRX that has also done 200k and has been owned by a number of teenagers that does a bunch of track days every year.

  • +5

    Think of it like this, all cars have a finite life. Depending on the make and model of the car other parts will need replacing if it's Holden or Ford a lot is going to need replacing by the time the car reaches 100,000kms. If its a Toyota Corolla not much will need to be done until after 200,000kms as their parts generally last longer (in my experience anyway). Most reasonably priced Jap cars will last and have longer lasting parts than other cars… generally. Of course the other issues are how it has been serviced, cared for and driven. The older the car, the more likely these factors will play a part and the less life the car will have and the more that will need to be spent to keep it on the road.

    Taking all the above factors into account I try and figure out the yearly running cost of owning a vehicle. The depreciation, fuel, servicing, insurance and repair costs. It's only worth buying second hand IMHO if a new car would have a more expensive yearly running cost. You may be surprised to find that often a new car is cheaper than a Gumtree bargain. The Gumtree seller has just figured out the car is too expensive to run! That's not to say second hand bargains can't be had… but this requires a lot of research and planning and napkin math.

    My rules with buying cars are:

    Never buy new
    Never buy anything with over 50,000 kms
    Never buy anything that is unreliable (research owners opinions online)
    Never buy anything with overtly expensive replacement parts or servicing
    Never buy anything without a mechanic checking it over properly
    Always try to calculate the yearly car ownership cost as a true cost comparison to other similar cars

    • thanks

      for the tips

    • +1

      Commodores a nd Falcons will run up 200,000km easy without dramas. Check out taxis.

      You then go on to say a new car could be cheaper in overall running costs, but that you would never buy one. Which one is it? I do agree that a couple of years old, under 50,000km are good buys if you have the money for a near new car. If you don't, then stick to Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi, ford, Holden, Subaru, Mazda etc in their big selling models, not a niche model or something that a boy racer would buy.

    • +1

      Very good response.

      A wise and honest car wholesaler (an almost mythical being) once told me, 'When you are buying a car, you are paying for the life left in that car'.

      Your answer pretty much explains this.

      The exception to this simple rule is for rare and collectible cars, but they are truly rare, and collectible. :)

    • Warranties are so long now you should cross off your first rule. Buying new with 7 years warranty? Thats a solid deal.

    • With all those rules, you must drive a donkey

    • Great tips

  • +9

    When you want advice between 2 cars, come back here and ask. Till then, this post is a hypothetical waste of time!

    • -3

      i updated it in the post above

      • +6

        Yep, and then still kept going about other hypotheticals like different colours etc…

        If you want 1 specific answer, ask 1 specific question.

        • -2

          What are u talking about hypothetical colours?

          I said this car does not have metallic paint ie plain colour

        • -1

          Tell me what hypothetical colours are u talking about?

          Why don't u go back and re read what I said more carefully.

        • @tyler.durden:

          Lol give it up. You can't even ask a question about 1 specific car!

          okay say it is a a toyota
          could be

          -or corolla

          just use one of those as example..

        • -3


          And where is the part about hypothetical colours?
          You showed me some statement, yet nothing about hypothetical colours…

          Would it make any difference if i specifically said it was a camry or aurion or corolla..

          The point is, it a toyota with plain color and done 200,000 km and cost 2 to 3k less
          while the other cars that are comparable has metallic paint and includes mag wheels/

          You should learn to read more carefully next time..


          Also see this thread
          Was anything specific mention about a particular car

        • @tyler.durden: Never seen someone try so hard to be vague and argue that they arent. Confounding. Why cant you ask one specific question?

          Also no-one gives a shit about your metallic paint except you. No-one says 'Wow, he's got metallic paint. He must be a really valuable member of society' i.e it's all in your head.

        • @tyler.durden:

          Sigh I am reading, and frankly your mixed up thoughts are giving me a headache. Or maybe it's because you can't write what you're actually thinking, but either way it's difficult to read.

          Coloured cars help a used car sell if a) It's a desirable colour, and b) It suits the car. A bright orange Camry would depreciate like crazy, but a bright Orange Swift or i20 would catch someone's attention and they'd be prepared to pay more. There's no different between white and silver when it comes to resale.
          It's all dependent on the car itself.

          Alloy wheels would be the same thing, are we talking factory alloys or aftermarket? Nice design or big and chrome and ugly? Again, these variables make a difference, as does the model of the car (see above).

          So again, there is so specific model here so there's no specific answers. If you had've said 'Here's this Camry in orange with big black wheels, is that worth more than a white one with hub caps' then we could give you simple yes or no answers, but at the end of the day it also depends if you find that 1 buyer that wants an orange Camry with big black wheels, coz if you can find them then I'm sure they'd pay more.

          Oh, and as I've said countless times, I work in the industry, I'm not just speculating.

        • -2

          @Al Kider:

          Not arguing about anything
          The guy said I mention hypothetical colors

          Just correcting him on his comment…

          maybe u should read the entire thread again..

          Do u even know how to read?

          "Would it make any difference if i specifically said it was a camry or aurion or corolla..

          The point is, it a toyota with plain color and done 200,000 km and cost 2 to 3k less
          while the other cars that are comparable has metallic paint and includes mag wheels/

          You should learn to read more carefully next time.."


          also see this thread

          Was anything specific mention about a particular car

        • @tyler.durden: >maybe u should read the entire thread again

          yeahnah. Got better shit to do. ALso i dont need to read the entire thread to see some 100 collective downvotes on your 'question theories'.

        • @Al Kider:

          since u got better shit to do
          well get lost then…

          no need to respond to my thread
          or read some comment and make a personal attack..

          go back to whatever better shit you are doing

          bye bye now…

        • @Spackbace:

          are u a car dealer?


          if this thread or what I write is giving u a headache then u are free to go somewhere else..

          no one makes u do anything in this world
          including reading anything I wrote.

          you chose to read it yourself..
          and you choose to respond

          if u don't like it, you can go somewhere else…

        • @tyler.durden:

          Right so that was the part you replied to, not the part where I answered your question?


        • @Spackbace:
          Yeh, looks like we got TOLD! Best get steppin, or we gonna be in real trouble…

        • @Spackbace:

          Are u a car salesmen?
          I ask this but u didn't answer…

          when did u answer my question?
          oh right…. after making some dumb comment about me, saying I made up some hypothetical color
          and then u posting a statement that does not prove any of your claims..

          also your personal attack on me

          -frankly your mixed up thoughts are giving me a headache
          -maybe it's because you can't write what you're actually thinking

          I have no interest in what you have to say anymore..

          Since you have no interest in this thread either
          Please leave this thread..

          there's plenty of other threads u can devote your life to..

        • @Al Kider:

          u got better shit to do right?

          so go away….and do them…

          why u still in this thread?

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