Brunnings 2L Indoor / Outdoor Surface Spray - $6.95 @ Bunnings

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LMichaellm84 on 12/02/2019 - 16:29 bunnings.com.au (1555 clicks)
Last edited 12/02/2019 - 16:30 by 1 other user

First time poster long time OzBargain watcher… $12 at BigW had a clearance sign at local Bunnings nearly half price over BigW, description below goodbye spidey!

Brunnings Indoor / Outdoor Surface Spray is a double action, ready to use spray that kills and repels household pests by forming a barrier around the home. 

It is effective against ants, cockroaches, spiders, fleas, paper-nest wasps, flies and mosquitoes. It is available in a handy three litre bottle with ready to use trigger.

Ready To UseControls ants, cockroaches, spiders, fleas papernest wasps, flies and mosquitoesForm a barrier around the home to control insect pests

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• 

  [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 16:38

  Does this stuff affect bees?

  I assume it's an "on contact" killer, so I'm guessing it won't if it's only sprayed around doors & walls outside the house?

  • 

    Banj0 on 12/02/2019 - 17:57

    +10

    Well…it will if the bees contact it. Seriously, it's best to avoid this sort of thing if you can help it. Bifenthrin is probably not one of the worst insecticides around, but it still has a half life of up to 8 months, so it hangs around in the soil, or possibly even gets washed into waterways if it's just sitting on top of the soil (more likely I think where people are using this stuff on footpaths and walls and the like).

    Where it is on anything that a bee contacts, they will take it back to the hive, and it will accumulate there with all the other crap that workers step in. Insecticides are implicated in the collapse of bee colonies in the northern hemisphere, so wherever you can avoid them…well…just do. I'm sure they're not that terribly good for us either together with all the other stuff we encounter.

    My parents are an older gen, and when I visit them they are often spraying around Mortein like it's air freshener. Makes me despair. I don't like having my family around that.

    • 

      tdw on 12/02/2019 - 18:26

      +2

      and no matter how many times you try to convince them how bad insecticides are, they still spray because "all insects are pests."
      fml

    • 

      sigplay on 13/02/2019 - 09:26

      hi Banj0 and anyone else who know a bit about pesticides. I do not know much about pesticides so just wanted to get your 2 cents. Umar511986 in a comment below recommended https://www.bunnings.com.au/bayer-25g-coopex-insecticide-sac…

      I can see it uses Permethrin. I tried to read up but I couldn't see which one is better and more environmentally friendly.

      I need insecticides as there are roaches outside our townhouse that goes inside the house. But as I have a 7month old who is now crawling, I am worried that she may find a roach or other insects and eat them (as a friend's kid have done in multiple occasions). I will spray this outside the house (doorways and windows) but will do it when my family is not at home for an extended period of time.

      Thanks in advance for your help!

• 

  Daffy Duck on 12/02/2019 - 16:40

  +4

  Before you waste your money on this check out the reviews here https://www.bigw.com.au/product/brunnings-outdoor-and-indoor…

  • 

    unco on 12/02/2019 - 16:47

    +4

    Can confirm RSI - bought this previously and what a bloody pita it was to use the spray!

    • 

      [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 17:45

      +1

      Other option is to put it into a pump up sprayer

      • 

        unco on 12/02/2019 - 18:12

        +2

        Yeah I got a pump up sprayer to use with the weed kill concentrate, I wonder if I can combine them and do the weeds and outdoor surface spray in one sweep :D

        • 

          [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 18:51

          @unco: I find the concentrate clogs the nozzle. Do I need to be more patient with the dissolving?

      • 

        DamagedDingo on 13/02/2019 - 07:54

        I bought this the other day and it leaked horribly. I will definitely be using one of those other hand pump prayers instead. Thanks for the idea.

• 

  Spoolax on 12/02/2019 - 16:53

  +9

  Best review. "Bought this to control ants…they just walk over it no problems and continue there merry way. Sprayed it outside & spiders make webs right where I have sprayed"

  • 

    [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 17:45

    +1

    I can guarantee they forgot to shake it. They were just spraying water.

• 

  Umar511986 on 12/02/2019 - 16:57

  The best stuff i have ever used for Spider control is Bayer Coopex Insecticide. Its easily available from Bunnings and work a treat (lasts for 6 months atleast)
  https://www.bunnings.com.au/bayer-25g-coopex-insecticide-sac…

  • 

    dcep on 12/02/2019 - 18:21

    is it powdery substance susceptible to being blown by strong wind ?

    • 

      [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 18:52

      You mix with water and spray it on.

• 

  [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 16:57

  -3

  Use Mortein

• 

  gtech on 12/02/2019 - 17:30

  +1

  For ants, you can't go past BASF Amdro. It's bloody expensive but works great.
  For everything else Bayer Coopex

  • 

    [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 18:58

    Not sure your link to the Amdro is working… but more importantly I Googled Amdro. As you say, expensive but extremely effective. Seems to target ants well. Excellent for those who are having major problems with them. I get a few of the little black ones but as long as counters are kept clear of food/sugar they don't seem to hang around. Active ingredient: Hydramethylnon.
    'Kills the queen within one week of application and the colony within two'.

  • 

    [Deactivated] on 12/02/2019 - 19:10

    +6

    My Ant killer

    1/2 cup of sugar
    2 soup spoons Borax
    1 1/2 cups warm water
    mix & store in a jar

    Soak Cotton balls or paper towel in jar, pick them out when you need to use.
    Place near ants nest. Repeat daily for a week.

    • 

      [Deactivated] on 13/02/2019 - 10:07

      Good advice.

      It won’t work immediately, but it will kill the queen eventually. The only downside is that it can take multiple attempts over a few weeks in my experience.

    • 

      Yaren24 on 13/02/2019 - 18:34

      How do you get rid of ants inside of a house, I already made sure my rooms are clean, they still keep coming inside….

      • 

        [Deactivated] on 13/02/2019 - 19:37

        +1

        you need to find out where they're coming in & put the killer there (even surface spray). and if you can see them outside & find out where their nest is that's the best place to kill them. They have great collective memories so they remember where the food was months after you've cleaned up.

        I got sick of them coming into the play area (since the kids would sneak/hide food in there), even after cleaning up, they'd keep coming back searching. They finally stopped when I found two spots where they were going under ground on the nature strip & place the cotton balls there for a week or so. I also used surface spray where they were coming into the house (along with more cotton balls).

        • 

          Yaren24 on 13/02/2019 - 20:15

          @[Deactivated]: Thank you, I will inspect all the areas, I live at a suburb with a lot of blacksoils not sure if that is related to ants as well.

• 

  resisting the urge on 12/02/2019 - 17:33

  +8

  2L of Corporate poison. That sounds like enough to wipe out the whole family!

  I've dealt with insects for years now, and have found that the best ways are the cheapest ones:

  1. Remove sources of food and water (Many are not apparent, for example things like digging a shallow water course/ag-pipe/ditch that drains water around a house to prevent dampness underneath, can stop roaches from breeding in less than a few weeks.

  2. Grow lots of flora the insects dislike (yes, there is something fro every one, quite literally, just search the web). Around the house, there are lots of plants that will grow in the various light conditions, in the ground and/or in pots.

  3. Have more acceptable insects do the hard work of hunting and exterminating. They are far cheaper than abused gig-workers and will work 24/7 to keep you safe. If you really feel aggrieved by the arrival of a particular exoskeletoned marauder, you can always catch it and feed it to one of your 'workers': At a share house that hosted millions of roaches and a wide range of unmanageable, unthinkable kitchen practices (due to a never ending flow of students), I used to catch roaches in a jar and throw them to the Orb-weaving spiders that raised enormous webs outside in the evening, to feast on the night-time 'fly-by traffic'. Watching roaches meet their ends was both macarbre and insteresting, (better than modern politics at least), but preferable to inhaling the aftermath of a frenzied Mortein festival.

  4. Etc. Etc. Etc. many of which are carbon neutral and effectively banned by the Canberra Totalitariat.

  z. Other methods still exist, but at some point you risk ending up pulling their wings off with your bare fingers. But at some point before insanity, you could request that, in the public interest, the entire place be napalmed, doused with Agent Orange and sold to the highest bidder to build a block of flats on.

  • 

    [Deactivated] on 13/02/2019 - 10:12

    We’ve got a hollow cement retaining wall that fills up with redbacks every couple of years. When that happens, they end up all over the yard, in our outdoor furniture, in our bathroom, under all our eaves, and generally everywhere.

    We’ve had good success with nuking them with insecticide when that occurs, and they’re usually gone for another year or two.

    I’d definitely be interested in an alternative solution (short of removing the retaining wall). But I haven’t found one.

    • 

      resisting the urge on 19/02/2019 - 13:35

      There is damp under the wall, and nothing else much can get in to predate their young. They are an unchecked feral as there is not much that predates the adults. Breeding zones embed them in the community, you will occasionally find escapees that wander to find new places, all around the area- in and outside houses.

      Perhaps try filling the gaps with fine sand or soil?

      Left alone, they just eat all the insects, lizards and so on that venture into their dark void. They breed the next generation with increased immunity against next year's best efforts :-(

      AFAIK this is how they get a foothold and their population recovers before native animals fill the space.

      If you can't dig under all the way, perhaps pile sand on top. Every bit that moves in will fill voids and reduce their breeding capacity. Combined with a fair bit of running water you may be able to get it to filter in- perhaps the rain will do the job if you top off the sand every now and then.

      Not sure if there are any plants that repel spiders, they like eating insects so manage the stinky things AFAIK, but maybe there is something non-toxic to everything else that they won't like to be near.

      • 

        [Deactivated] on 19/02/2019 - 13:51

        It’s a big wall. We’d need a lot of sand, and a month to do it.

        I’ll stick to the bug spray. When I do it, they’re gone for a year or so. That’s much easier.

        • 

          resisting the urge on 19/02/2019 - 16:52

          @[Deactivated]: Perhaps but maybe there is more reason to fix it. Have you considered why the gaps have appeared under the wall. Usually it is because of minor sink-back after it was built, which can cause further water ingress and erosion that undermines it in places, allows cracks or water to cause other problems.

          Maybe the spiders are just the start.

          • 

            [Deactivated] on 19/02/2019 - 17:14

            @resisting the urge: The gaps are because they’re large, non-uniform concrete blocks that don’t have perfectly even sides. So when they were laid, there were gaps between them where the blocks didn’t sit flush.

            They’re not huge gaps, but enough for a spider to find its way in and out.

            Maybe I’ll seal them all with gap filler and see what happens.

            • 

              resisting the urge on 20/02/2019 - 22:28

              @[Deactivated]: Sounds like an excellent and permanent approach. Concrete will work better, mixed with 2 parts sand or less to make a mortar. You can buy 1L bags if you only need a little, and don't feel like getting a great big 20kg bag which may cost the same ($6.50), most of which goes off if not used and left poorly sealed from humidity.

              • 

                [Deactivated] on 20/02/2019 - 22:39

                @resisting the urge: Thanks for the advice!

                • 

                  resisting the urge on 20/02/2019 - 22:43

                  @[Deactivated]: No worries. Don't forget to buy some beer to admire your handiwork with.

                  This time you might just nail the blighters!

• 

  Punkboy on 12/02/2019 - 18:39

  +4

  Don't understand the hate for spiders when they are a great form of natural insect control themselves.
  Yes, I've run into a gluey web or two but they soon move their webs from high traffic areas if you break their webs.

  • 

    tdw on 12/02/2019 - 18:51

    probably the same people who think spider bites contain flesh-eating venom

    • 

      MasterScythe on 12/02/2019 - 20:03

      There really is only one, thas common, that has a high chance of necrosis.

      Bird dropping spider/whitetail.

      • 

        tdw on 12/02/2019 - 20:42

        lol that's the exact myth i was alluding to.

        on one hand, can't blame the average person for still believing it when certain medical professionals do as well.

        but have a read: https://www.watoday.com.au/national/you-probably-have-them-i…

        The myth was first busted in a 2003 landmark study of 130 white-tailed spider bites, where an expert had caught and identified the spider afterwards. The study found that not one white tail had caused an ulcer or infection.
        Experts Geoffrey Isbister and Michael Gray concluded that white tail bites caused only mild pain in most cases or a painful, itchy red lesion in almost half.
        Fewer than one-third of cases involved severe pain (which is classified as greater than or the equivalent to a bee sting).
        Another study a year later investigated nine patients whose ulcers had been blamed on white tails or other spiders, with all found to have been misdiagnosed.

        What does cause flesh-eating ulcers?
        It is believed many of the cases attributed to white tails are in fact Buruli ulcers.
        The gruesome open sores are caused by a bacterium called Mycobacterium ulcerans. Scientists are now investigating whether it is spread by mosquitoes and possums.

  • 

    [Deactivated] on 13/02/2019 - 10:16

    We have occasional redback infestations. It’s not uncommon to see three or four in the bathroom at once when they get out of control.

    They especially love dropping down from the exhaust fan when we’re having a shower and landing on our heads or faces.

    Nuking the inside of the roof cavity and the backyard with insecticide is the only way we’ve managed to deal with them properly. We try to be environmentally conscious, but at some stage, it gets to a point where we’re over it.

• 

  chyawala on 12/02/2019 - 18:39

  Does anyone wonder how safe it is for us to come into contact with it, and what the effects are?

  • 

    cornbeef on 12/02/2019 - 19:06

    +4

    If you touch it too much your balls fall off.

    • 

      petry on 12/02/2019 - 19:20

      there's not many with ball's on this site - keyboard warriors, sales people, trolls yes - don't worry the joke will soon disappear - number 1 - make it so…

  • 

    Banj0 on 12/02/2019 - 19:51

    If you feed enough to rats and mice, they get tremors.

    If you get it on your skin, you may get itching, burning, and/or numbness.

    Breath it in and it may irritate your lungs/airways.

    If you swallow enough of it you’ll become nauseous and throw up.

    I think it’s reasonably harmless to us. I’m not convinced that the studies really ever cover all the bases though, particularly in the context of exposure to multiple chemicals (is…studies seem to only look at one chemical, but in real life you may have prolonged exposure to a variety of different compounds). I try to keep clear of this sort of stuff unless we have a really big problem. If I can, I kill it with boiling water and/or flames!

    • 

      MasterScythe on 12/02/2019 - 20:10

      Yep.

      Most insecticides work on parts of the insect we as mammals dont even have.

      I mean, like a LOT of things in the world, it doesnt mean our body wants to metabollise it, but people assume that poison to one lifeform is a poison to all.

      Chocolate and dogs anyone?

      Do research before naysaying products, and try to remain off the clearly bias sources.

      • 

        Banj0 on 12/02/2019 - 20:21

        http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/bifgen.html

        One of the first hits…probably a reliable source I'd say. There's others that are along the same lines. I try to avoid the sort of sites that promote a particular view or another.

        Still doesn't make it sound like something I want to use unless I really need to.

        What the hell is a mud dauber anyway?

        • 

          cornbeef on 12/02/2019 - 20:57

          @Banj0: Mud dauber is a name commonly applied to a number of wasps from either the family Sphecidae or Crabronidae that build their nests from mud.

          • 

            MasterScythe on 12/02/2019 - 21:30

            +1

            @cornbeef: Yepo!

            Orange wasps that can literally build a cricket size ball of mud inside a computer power supply within 1 day….

• 

  maxwellish on 12/02/2019 - 19:45

  +1

  This is really diluted to the point of no use. .5g/1L compared to 100g/1L that pest controllers use. Waste of money and should not be sold to the public. Bifenthrin is a knockdown contact that has little control over colonies as it wont get to the queen.

  Fipronil, known as termidor, is by far the beat option. Works slowly, allowing the anta to carry ot back to colony and erradicating the nest. 6 months residual.

  As for bees, dont spray it on flowering plants.. Dont be stupid. Poses no threat on hard stand areas and turf/soil.

  Source - I use theae products professionally.

  • 

    MasterScythe on 12/02/2019 - 20:08

    You're a pro?

    Can you tell me what in this spray, from woolworths has almost LITERAL instant knockdown of mud daubers?

    I live in a problem area and have to kill 30 to 40 a day inmy house building nests, and they basically ignored everything….

    But this stuff? Literally 2 to 3 second TOPS and they're on the ground.

    Doesnt even have to be a good spray, general area from 5+m, and they still drop.

    https://www.woolworths.com.au/shop/productdetails/573123/fir…

    You can zoom on the image to clearly see the ingedients on the front of the can.

    • 

      maxwellish on 12/02/2019 - 20:11

      If you treated your house properly, you wouldnt be spraying that breathable crap everyday. The fact that you do means youre losing.

      Read my post again mate.

      • 

        MasterScythe on 12/02/2019 - 20:33

        I've had the pros do the outside,was definately fipronil, as i got him to leave me some.

        and I roller-applied surface treatment at 1.5x recommended strength (CHLORPYRIFOS, and bifethrin) to every wall, floor, and cieling I can reach, minus the bedroom, and lounge room (because i know chlorpyrifos isnt very nice to us).

        Whenever there is rain finishing (aka, mud! Frucking Daubers), I have wasp powder and treat the lawn and driveway. But i think this is just permethryn? Could be tetramethryn…

        We have catnip, and camphorlauloryl planted around to property as its supposed to deter them also.

        What else am I missing?

        As you say, im losing the battle, and between 'hitman' callouts, and products, its really expensive.

        But still not as expensive as the thousands of dollars of electronics they ruin when they build in them.

        Please help!

        Id love to know what in that spray is literally instantly effective? If it has any sort of decent half life, it'd be all i need to surface treat with!

        • 

          maxwellish on 12/02/2019 - 21:06

          @MasterScythe: Its not the actives, its the fact you drown them in chemicals. Im sure deodorant would do a similar job.

          The hard part about pest control is on going protection. Fipronil is un-detectable by ants and is easily carried back to the nest where it infects the colony and the queen.

          The problem with mud daubers is they fly and dont crawl on surfaces that have been treated.

          It sounds like you have the right idea, but blasting them with spray is not helping anything long term.

          • 

            MasterScythe on 12/02/2019 - 21:27

            @maxwellish: What will help long term?
            Im just sick of walking down my back steps and dodging literally as many as 5 daubers just flying around the house.

            There is no standing water near us, but a tidal creek (so flowing water).

            For inside ive considered flyscreens, however its a post-war home, and every window is louvers with open louver ventilation panels also.

            Not to mention the 3 chimineys…

            Its not easy to figure out a screen solution for louvers

            • 

              Seedy seed on 13/02/2019 - 10:45

              @MasterScythe: Mod a aldi auto sprayer to hold your full can of that and itll just auto pulse the stuff till there all dead in afew weeks.

  • 

    bUrd on 13/02/2019 - 12:43

    In my town in regional WA, we're heading into the start of cooler days and more rain and the ants are on the move. I've been wondering the best way to kill the nests in our ceiling since things like Ant Rid aren't doing the job. They leave the area they're exploring, but they pop out the walls somewhere else a week later and I can see them going to satellite nests outside in the garden.

    I'll give your suggestion a try for sure as I'm at my wit's end with the little pricks nesting in anything and everything and having to spray out boxes and containers and wash out thousands of dead ants and their eggs.

• 

  Laziofogna on 12/02/2019 - 22:34

  +1

  Nothing of this Brunnings brand has ever worked out well for me.

• 

  Balmaino on 13/02/2019 - 09:43

  This crap does not work. I used so much of it all through the inside and outside of my home and all the ants are doing is laughing and throwing house parties with little cocktails

• 

  jaimex2 on 13/02/2019 - 10:01

  If its spiders you want to discourage use peppermint oil, it irritates their feet.

• 

  idonteven on 13/02/2019 - 10:08

  Anyone have any suggestions for cockroaches? I live in a ground floor apartment and they are coming out of everywhere!

  • 

    [Deactivated] on 13/02/2019 - 10:20

    +1

    If you’ve got neighbours that leave food and waste out all the time, it’s a losing battle. Once they’re infested, you’re next. Nothing you can do.

    That’s why I won’t live in an apartment ever again. Been there, done that, dealt with the ants, mice and cockroaches from the neighbouring slobs.

  • 

    Seedy seed on 13/02/2019 - 10:46

    Close up the holes, use roach bait, move

  • 

    ashtyn on 13/02/2019 - 17:02

    The first month I sprayed this, I found at least one dead cockroach every week. It's been 5 months now, I still pick up a few occasionally. So, I guess it works?

    For cockroach only, I would first try the cockroach bait though (as suggested by Seedy seed).

• 

  ashtyn on 13/02/2019 - 16:48

  Get a hand/garden sprayer (if you don't have one already) along with this product. The built-in sprayer is already bent (as you can see from the photo) that makes it hard to use. Even a $3 sprayer works much better.

• 

  Yaren24 on 13/02/2019 - 18:27

  Hi everyone, just curious is it me or everyone experiences a lot of ants coming to the house even you made sure the house is clean, is it caused by droughts?

  • 

    tdw on 13/02/2019 - 18:38

    they come in for water as well

    • 

      Yaren24 on 13/02/2019 - 18:39

      Yes you are right. What can I do? My cats need to drink water…

      • 

        [Deactivated] on 14/02/2019 - 10:19

        Train your cats to drink from the tap.

        • 

          Colombian on 14/02/2019 - 12:17

          -1

          @[Deactivated]: You forgot to teach them how to open the tap, otherwise you will have to leave them running all day….