This was posted 4 years 8 months 30 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

Related
  • expired

Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 5L Engine Oil $19.99 (Was $54.99) @ Autobarn

1081

Saturday only. Limit of 2 per customer. I think this is the cheapest ever so far.

Related Stores

Autobarn
Autobarn

closed Comments

  • +1

    perfect timing.

    thx =)

    • after Supercheap only gave 40 +10 off?
      No wonder they told me to ignore limits

  • Anyone knows if this is suitable for camry hybrid?

    • +1

      Check your owners/service manual.

    • +1
    • toyotamanuals.com.au

  • Nice one. Thanks op

  • Is this only for STOP START engine?

    • +28

      Yes no point changing oil if your engine doesn't start up

      • +1

        LOL

        this engine oil full name is CASTROL MAGNATEC STOP START 5W30 5L ENGINE OIL

        • Nobody likes start stop engines so that is why they give it away. The man at SCA was pleading me to take all his stock!

    • +1

      nope, you can use this oil for regular petrol engine vehicles with no stop-start, where the specifications recommend 5W-30.

      • Actually where the specifications recommend a spec of sn or gf5 or less.

  • +2

    hopefully its not some very old stock dug up from a random warehouse, new oil has a shelf life of upto 5 years, but unfortunately it doesn't have dates on the bottle. seems like they are trying to peddle this out pretty quick

    • Wow ive never heard that before. I dont understand how or why new oil could have an expiry date or limited shelf life.

    • Excellent point. My store has stock on the shelves that was clearly old - same as the second pic in link.

    • +2

      Shelf life of oil is a funny one. I work in the aviation sector and 1 QT tins of turbine oil have a shelf life, but when they approach the end of their life, they are "assessed" and deemed "serviceable" by checking the integrity of the tin. Oil is probably going to be fine for your Camry.

    • +2

      This full synthetic blend of Magnatec hasn't even been on the shelf for 5 years. Nothing to worry about here

  • Normal Magnatec is 10w-40 & semi Synthetic..

    This 'Stop/Start' variant is 'Full Synthetic' & 5w-30..

    Be careful mixing Full-synthetic with mineral or semi-synthetic blends without a flush in between…

    • What would happen if you add a liter of semi synthetic to a car that already has full synth in it, or visa versa?

      • +3

        After a quick google, it would seem there are no dangers with mixing different types, only issue is you lose the benefits of the Synthetic oil if you mix it with standard (mineral) oil…

        • +1

          Thanks Bunsen for your response. I usually google simple things first before asking questions, but as you were saying to "be careful mixing Full-with mineral" it sounded like you already knew some further information already, hence I asked :-)

  • +1

    How’s this compared to castr edge?

    • +2

      Edge is better

  • I hope it isn't the usual gimmick where there is 5 bottles on a shelf, sells out in the first 30mins of a 1 week sale.

    • +1

      It's a one day sale.

  • I am confused with the Autobarn website when searched using vehicle type, No Castrol Oils were returned for 2013 Nissan Pulsar and popup message suggest that it is not recomended for my vehicle.
    However Castrol website suggest that it should be okay to use this oil for my 2013 Pulsar https://rego2oil.castrol.com/en_au/australia/vehicle/1_Cars_…
    Which one should I trust? or can any auto experts can please suggest if it is okay to use this oil for 2013 Nissan Pulsar sedan?

    • +4

      have a look at your user manual. Sometimes it is noted on the oil cap as well.

      However, I'm pretty sure that his oil is good for your car.

  • Does anyone know if this is compliant with VW 507 00?

    • +2

      no it's not, you would need castrol edge.

  • Can I price match at SCA?

  • searching engine oil for a Japanese stop start car, this oil is not in the list according to autobarn website.

    it recommends
    PENRITE ENVIRO PLUS GF5 5W30 5L ENGINE OIL
    VALVOLINE SYNPOWER FE 5W30 SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL 5L
    NULON ENGINE OIL LONGLIFE 5W30 5L

    LOL

  • Can i use this on Honda accord euro 2010?

  • Hey guys - is this suitable for an Auto BMW 123D 2010 Convertible? Engine light just popped up, and changing engine oil by myself for the first time ever! Any tips? :)

    • +2

      Yes, don't do it if the engine light already popped up take it to a service

    • +2

      Engine light isn't telling you to change the oil, it has a fault. This oil is incorrect anyway, as your BMW should have a dpf, and this oil is not suitable for dpfs

    • +1

      For engine light you need the computer OBD pr similar to get error code. Then you repair or replace that bit. Use computer to reset code. Yiur wallet will be $1000 lighter. :)

  • this or the 10L penrite oil deal?

  • I've got a sludging problem with my kluger 2013 and need some cheap oil to flush the engine and change every 1000km a few times

    I have the castrol edge 5w-30 in there now but never used the magnetic.

    This should work with the kluger right?

    • Check their website you can input your car model.

    • Yes it will work fine. Use half a litre of Kero in the engine, run it for 15 min or so at idle, then drain the oil and refill. Is yours so bad that it's smoking?

      • Yep! Used to smoke (white) bad just on start up.
        Changed oil 2 weeks ago and it was fine for a couple of days lol
        Now (600km later) nowhere near as much as before. Need another change soon.

        Hopefully another change or 2 and might get rid of the smoke

        You've had this problem before?
        Some say just use diesel oil instead because it has more detergents?

        I did buy 2 of these https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-engine-oil-f…

        But a friend of mine said engine flushes are very bad, when he used one it ruined his gadgets so I didn't end up using them…

        • Pull the front rocker cover off, break the baffles away a bit and clean out the coked up oil. Either that or just fit a new front rocker cover. They clog with coked up oil, which then forces raw oil straight into the inlet manifold, causing the smoke.

          • @brendanm: You're the same Brendan on whirlpool that was helping on a similar issue on an older thread aren't you?

            I left a post on there a few weeks ago for you 😁

            By evidence your method worked great for that guy!

            I'm not very handy with cars unfortunately (hence why I have the problem in the first place) so I wanted to try the flush first and see before paying the mechanic a few hundreds for the cleaning the rocker cover/baffles

            So you don't think the kero/diesel flushing is effective anymore for my situation?

            • @sirs2k: Yes but I am banned from there haha, pinzvidz put a post up to contact me on here for info.

              Flush won't work, the oil has literally solidified inside the rocker cover baffles. They need a proper cleaning out or replacement. I've done this with many aurions/klugers.

              The Kero is still good for removing other gunky oil in there, but it won't fix your issue. These things absolutely hate having services missed.

              • @brendanm: "These things absolutely hate having services missed."
                All modern cars will do the same. False economising…

                • @Cheeper: Generally, but the gr series are absolutely shocking for it.

                  • @brendanm: Been driving a 2GR-FE every day for over 7 years. Not a hint of sludging.
                    Drove a 1MZ-FE for 10 years and zero sludging there also.
                    The only motors that I have seen that suffer from sludging all had the same cause and it was not design related.

                    • @Cheeper: It was neglect!
                      Guilty as charged 😭

                      • @sirs2k: Nah… live & learn like all of us.. :-) :-)

                    • @Cheeper: I think you miss my point. Some engines are far more prone to it than others. Gr engines, alloytec commodores. Possibly oil temperature related, I don't know. Obviously if you service the vehicle correctly it won't be an issue. If you don't, some sludge up more quickly than others.

                      • @brendanm: I am aware that some motors are claimed to sludge more than others but have never seen it in one that has been properly serviced using a quality oil and a filter change at every service.
                        I have seen sluge in many motors though of different makes and models and of varying vintages.
                        The cause in all of them had been the same thing… and this is what has happened to the op here.
                        I did not miss any point at all… there are a lot of whispers about this topic that are just not true. Sure, some may sludge up at 50,000 without an oil change while others may last to 70,000 but is that relevant? Using low quality oil and not changing it after many years of driving will sludge up any motor.

                        • @Cheeper: You still missed the point. Alloytecs and grs start to sludge with one or less missed service. Extending intervals causes sludging in them, not going 50k km between changes.

                          Obviously you don't see it in ones that have been properly serviced, that's simply common sense.

                          • @brendanm: I didn't miss any point…
                            Your claim that going 20,000k using a quality full sythetic oil and a filter change will cause sludge is rubbish. Unless the dealer is using cheap mineral oil, and some DO!
                            Here is some news… some dealerships, not necessarily Toyota, will sometimes just stamp a customers log book and hope not to get caught out when they have overbooked services.
                            That means they may do 20-30k/k without an oil change… :-( There must be sludged up cars everywhere.
                            Earlier Highlander motors in the US DID have a definite sludging problem which was caused by a design fault and corrected with a simple modification. You can research that one.
                            I will stand by what I have seen and know to be fact… ALL modern hi performance motors will sludge quicker than older motors. Quoting specific engine versions is irrelevant.
                            If you want to create a massive debate about this then start a thread but it has been flogged to death already. It is NOT unique to Toyota at all.

                            • @Cheeper: Where did I say full synthetic oil? Toyota don't spec a full synthetic oil as being necessary as far as I know.

                              Cool stories mate, I never said only Toyota have this issue, i specifically mentioned alloytec commodores engines as well. I'm a mechanic, have worked on plenty of different vehicles, some have more problems with sludging than others, I've actually seen it myself over thousands of vehicles, not your data point of 2 Toyota's that have been serviced religiously. I'm not having a debate, you are.

  • +2

    Made a pick-up order around 1pm and got a call telling me it's out of stock. The store can get more in but refuses to honour the sale price. They also can't redirect or cancel my order, I have to call head office on Monday to get my money back.

    For an online ordering system, this is just appalling.

    • +1

      Phone number on the Facebook page is invalid, customer support goes straight to voice mail. Also tried emailing but no response for 2 days.

      I'm just gonna do a chargeback at this point.

Login or Join to leave a comment