This was posted 4 years 6 months 19 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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½ Price Nulon Next Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5W-30 5L $25 @ Repco

730
  • Multi-Vehicle 5W-30 specification
  • Full Synthetic Formulation
  • Meets or exceeds SAE and API SN ratings
  • Prevents sludge build-up
  • Improved oil stability for long drain intervals
  • Australian Made

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  • Went with Nulon semi-synthetic last oil change and was quite impressed with it.
    Generally around $50, so might give this a go over winter

    • +1

      Once you go full synthetic you never want to go back unless your engine is say 20 years old. Eg 13 Sportage diesel, dealer sewage they put in with capped service after a 100km it is already black. Nulon still stayed transparent after 15oookm! Unless you drive an exotic Italian car hard this will suit most modern engines.

  • +2

    Curious..what exactly is Nulon "Next"? I.e. how does it differ to their other full synthetic oils.

    • +10

      how does it differ

      Tastes of elderberry with a hint of pepper.

    • +2

      Marketing bulltish

    • Can't even find it on the Nulon website, would be interested to see how it compares to the long life in regards to SAPS content.

    • Its marked as "new" on Repcos website. I notice that a lot of their full synthetics are micro-brewed to the recipe of specific manufacturers, so I think (guess) this one is just a general use recipe

  • +1

    For some reason this was not compatible with my BMW even though 5w30 full synthetic oil is required.

    BMW requires long life rated oil and this one isn't one of them.

    Otherwise I'd be all over this deal as it's a fantastic price

    • +1

      Just wait until you're outside warranty; then you can use any oil and drain interval you desire :)
      If you've spent any time on BMW or even Oil forums; I'm sure you've seen that BMW rarely get the oil specs correct for their vehicle.

      • +1

        Oh it's way way out of warranty… Which is why I worry because I don't want more stuff to break…

        I've stuck with the recommended OEM Castrol oil for now. Car doesn't do much driving at all and on sale the Castrol was only about $11 more expensive per bottle.

        • Please share which spec castrol do you use?
          My car will.be out of warranty soon and I am thinking frequent self changes will be the norm.

        • +1

          Ah OK, Yeah BMW has a history of speccing too wide of a range in oils; Their M series for example often wants "10w60" which shears to a 40w in about 700kms when it's sent away for analysis. 40w oil in our summer is too thin for an M series.

          At least we have 15W60 available from penrite; which is much more stable, and HPR5 for anything that wants 5w30.

          We're such an odd climate of a country, nobody spec's us properly, it's up to us oil nerds and concerned owners to make sure we send away for used oil analysis often.

          • @MasterScythe: Any recommendations for an N54 engine?
            I've just used the Castrol 5w30.
            Engine has 49000km on it

            • +2

              @edrift: Penrite HPR5
              Meets:
              BMW LL-01
              BMW Longlife-01
              Even if it didn't It'd still be what I'd recommend.

              Unless you drive a stop-start hybrid, hold revvs over 75% for longer than 3 seconds at a time, or live in one of the rare parts of Australia that sees below 0 deg; there is no reason to go thinner than a 40w oil.

              • +1

                @MasterScythe: I bought and used the Penrite GF5 5-30 today . Something to do with Dexos1 Gen2 . I always used 15-50 in my Aurion (noisy tappets) and the 5-30 was like water in comparison . I'm starting to think the 15-50 was a major reason for the abysmal fuel economy i got from the Aurion .

                • +1

                  @troyww: oooo Enviro+ range; Low sulpur fuel only. I'm NOT a fan; it won't break anything, but I wouldn't use it often.
                  Yes it extends you catalytic converter life; but I'd prefer to replace a cat every 5~10 years, rather than an engine ever.

                  See, all oil, even synthetics shear a little. While I'm well aware the 'two numbers' are on completely different scales; a rule of thumb is to add them, then divide them by 2. Erring on the higher side, if it's a full synthetic and a lower side if it's a semi or mineral.

                  Not much moves THROUGH oil in a car, yeah the pump has to push it, but it'a a geared pump, and has a bypass valve; it doesn't suffer much.
                  There WILL be a difference; but it won't be much. That said, if you like penrite; HPR5 or HPR10 for that vehicle.

                  Was this a V6 Aurion? If so, yeah, they're known as toyota's Torque monsters for a reason, people naturally STOMP the gas on them, because they get up and move so satisfyingly; even if you're a calm driver, Aurions just pull away from other traffic even if you don't mean to, but that uses fuel….

                  In addition, a lot of people don't realise that the primary o2 sensor in a car, is an (expensive) consumable. Even if the engine isn't showing fault codes, every 100'000kms it can be replaced if you want to see better economy; same goes for your MAF sensor (MAP sensors usually don't wear out).

                  Anyway; I'm rambling.

                  tldr; 15w50 oils won't be helping your fuel use, but it won't be making you hate the economy.

                  For an example, if I put Nulon 25w60 into my car, expecting a track day; and it doesn't happen (so it stays in) I lose about 1.5L\100km.
                  My 'manual' requests 0w-20; its 'normal' fill (after lots of used oil analysis) is a 5w40.

                  Honda K-Series, if you were wondering.

                  • @MasterScythe: Thanks for the very illuminating "ramble" . My step father taught us kids to service our own cars and always swore thicker oil prolonged the life of the engine . Funny how the more things seem to change the more they stay the same .
                    I normally just grab whatever fully synthetic in the thicker range than whats called for . I purchased an Astra 1.6t and thought there might be some sort of special requirements , basically a bit apprehensive after hearing many horror turbo stories over the years . Is thicker oil still ok for turbo motors ? . The Dexos 1 Gen2 only comes in 5-30w . i saw the word Enviro splashed on the packaging and wondered what the compromise was .

                    The Aurion was a V6 , They all were , basically a V6 Camry . The 2gfe V6 really transformed a Camry into a very different beast . You never really had to stomp it ,It pulled liked a shaved tractor at rediculously low revs but it would rev happily as well . Awesome value S/H but after 10 years of trouble free motoring I just felt like a change , well that and fuel …and I totalled it .

    • Easy solution is to change oil at half of the interval specified. Itll do your engine better than buying longer life oil.

      • Do u also replace the oil filter when changing your oil at half interval ?

        • I do.. Generally 7500-10,000km maximum I do on mine and my wife's car. (Manufacturer says change at ~15k).
          When I've owned jap "performance" cars I always did it at 5k.

        • Yeah you should… No point running clean oil through a dirty filter.

          • +1

            @edrift: Just so you know, if a filter is dirty the oil won't run through it, it'll flow through the bypass valve.

            If you're doing Used Oil Analysis often, you can try skipping 1 filter, and see if particulates significantly raise when you get your next analysis.

            A filter will almost always last an easy 10k, where lots of people are doing oil changes ever 5.
            Filters can last 2 easily if thats the case :)

            If you're using full synthetic, so doing extended drains (like 15k) then yes, filter every time.

        • +1

          There would be no need. A filter works more efficiently when the big pores are already filled; also, the filter is designed to have enough surface area for 15k intervals; just because you're giving it new clean oil, doesn't make the filter any less capable.

          • @MasterScythe: Why replace a 10 part when u can buy a new engine when it stuffs it up.

    • -1

      You want Motul

      • +2

        Why? For what?
        Last i saw a virgin oil analysis of motul it had a very boring additive package; and just good group4 base oils.

        If you need that, penrite 10tenths is usually cheaper and more available.

  • +1

    I grabbed 5w-40 last sale, thinking of grabbing this as a spare for another oil change down the track! Great price

  • +2

    No good for diesel

  • Good price, though makes one wonder why it's so much cheaper than the Long Life.

    Unknown characteristics; can't find the datasheet anywhere, nor is it listed on Nulon's website.

  • I prefer Castrol 5W-30 fully synthetic LL for my Audi A4 but for anybody interested this deal seems very good.

  • -1

    Put in my rego at Repco website and it came up as "This product may not fit your vehicle."
    Weird, so it's not standard 5W-30 oil

    • likely due to new product and the compatible list not yet updated.

      • I hope you're right.
        Just bought 2, I will pick it up later

  • +1

    Thanks! Just walked into my local and got two :)

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