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Plasti Dip Can - Red 450ml $5 (Was $32) @ Repco

570

Used this stuff before. Gives a nice smooth finish and is very forgiving. Much better than vinyl wrap.

Make sure you heat up the can with boiling water for best results .

Some cans at AutoBarn for $10

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  • Nothing available near me (3913). Would have grabbed a couple of cans as I made some weights which I've been giving a spray or two of rubber, this is cheaper than what Bunnings has.

    • Just curious have you done this already and is it durable?
      Was reading hammertone is the way to go.

      • Also, once you open and partially use it, can you store the rest, or do you need to finish the can at one go?

      • I've used this (https://www.bunnings.com.au/rust-oleum-312g-clear-leakseal-f...) and just done a light coat to essentially soften any hard edges on it, and reduce the dust breaking off easily. Worked pretty well.

        I initially used the wrong type of concrete which needed a lot of spray to stop breaking off, changed to one that had a much smoother finish.

        • So you made weights yourself out of concrete. Nice.
          I thought you were coating steel plates in the rubber coating and I was wondering if that would be durable, that's why I mentioned hammertone. Hammertone wouldn't work for concrete.
          So what did you make? Just plates or kettleballs or something else.

          • @DarwinBoy: Mostly plates - calculate the volume needed to get a given weight (https://www.traditionaloven.com/conversions_of_measures/conc...), calculate the surface area of the bottom of a bucket, algebra it to work out how high you have to fill the bucket. Cut pipe to that length, in the right gauge for whatever pole you have. Put the pipe in (blu tack or tape to bottom of bucket helps keep position), then fill up with cement (used this with no preference for anything https://www.bunnings.com.au/dingo-20kg-hi-strength-concrete_...), wait till it sets and then knock out with a rubber mallet.

            The spray was a coat all over, stopping the dust as I said and it will make it more durable I think.

            The pole I got was just a curtain rod from a recycling shop, any old straight thing would be fine. For future ones I have the pole from an old garage door (garage door was used as the roof of a shed).

            Also did a couple of dumbells for my wife, so made up jigs out of thicker pipe with caps - it was hard work for some light dumbells, but this was at the start of the pandemic when any weights were hard to come by. Kettlebells I've seen done in an old basketball or soccerball, with some rebar as the handle.

            • @pdtmathieson: Yeah that's pretty cool. When the gyms closed I spent the first week soaking my rusty plates in vinegar and then painting them up so they could be used without a mess. Came up good but time will tell.
              Thinking of making some kettle balls myself. Should do it soon before the second wave shuts down gyms again.

              • @DarwinBoy: I haven't really thought about this a lot, but if you had thick flexible pipe you could possibly mould a handle. The rebar I suppose is a good option because because it's a thick gauge but made to be bent.

                If you were desperate, even a bit of rigid garden hose would work for a handle, just slip a bit of wood or something in to make the flat part of the handle, then set it in a bucket of concrete. And just make sure the hose is anchored in there somehow - I reckon kinking the end should be enough.

                The step I didn't mention was reinforcing the concrete - I don't know how neccessary it is, but the first one I did fell apart because I didn't let it dry enough, but none have since reinforcing. Just used some chicken wire I had lying around in the concrete in place of rebar.

  • only Brookvale & Penrith show stock in Sydney.

    It's on 'Clearance', so doubtful many stores have actual stock…

  • Makes your car go faster

  • just when I have an unpainted spoiler coming in. thanks!

  • +5 HP

  • Autobarn have a massive range of Plasti Dip for $9.99 a can. Have had great success with badges and interior trim, haven't had a crack at anything too big yet.

  • "Make sure you heat up the can with boiling water for best results."

    WTF?….

  • I'm tempted to try this on my car roof to replace my vinyl wrap that's not doing too good after 4 years. It sounds pretty easy to use? How long will it last?

    • +1 vote

      i've had plastidip on my wheels since 2014. other than a few touch-ups from changing tyres a couple of times, it's still holding up quite well after 6 years, albeit with a bit of fade.

      you still need to take care of it if you want it to look reasonably good and not total trash; the advantage is when it gets to that stage, there's no four-figure cost to respray

      • I've found that a water-based tyre dressing such as CarPro PERL rejuvenates and brings a nice satin finish to my black plastidipped wheels.

        • yep PERL is great stuff

          • @tdw: Wish I'd done this instead of painting my rims. Got told it wouldnt last a wash.

            • +2 votes

              @abuch47: wouldn't last a wash? lol i use wheel brushes on it (the softest ones, mind) and it's fine. i've got good tyre guys as well who do their best to not disrupt the dip but i do tell them every time not to worry if it starts peeling.

              i actually started off with plastidip with a view to getting my wheels painted. i was happy enough with the result, and figured i didn't want having my car out of action for a week or so while the wheels were at the painter's. also i spent whatever money i budgeted for the paint job on other car stuff.

              i don't clean my wheels as often as i'd like so there's typically nice even layer of brake dust all over lol. doesn't bother me as much now with the black dipped wheels vs the oem silver.

              • @tdw: Damn it, damn it, damn it. Is there a matte or semi gloss black?

                • @abuch47: plastidip is matte by default.

                  there's a glossifier that goes on top which you can adjust from a satin finish all the way to full gloss depending on how many layers you apply

      • Any experience with or know the difference with these metalizer Plasti dip cans?

        https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care-panel/paint/specialty-p...

    • Was the vinyl wrap fitted well in the first place? I had vinyl wrap on my car for a few years (whole of car matte black wrap done professionally) and it looked great right up until I sold it.

      • for sure, I had to laugh at the comment 'much better than vinyl wrap'. I wrap cars for a living and there is no way Plasti Dip is known as a better product or surface except for those in the DIY world. Vinyl was designed to protect your paint while plasti dip was designed to be a cheap paint job. The only time we use plast-dip is for wheels and badges, other then that, no thanks.

        There is also no way vinyl will damage quality oem paint. The issued comes from people leaving it on too long. 'Not doing good after 4 years'? Remove it. Vinyl has a life span generally of 3-5 years depending on care and exposure to the elements. Any sign of degradation is a sign it should be removed, not doing so is a risk to your paint that will get blamed on the vinyl instead of people understanding the product you have put on your car. 'A four-figure respray cost' is for your own reason, not the fault of the vinyl.

        When removed within its limit vinyl is a piece of cake to remove. Plasti dip is a nightmare to remove, we have to do it a lot for people wanting to remove it for vinyl to get a better finish and we dread it.

        • +1 vote

          'A four-figure respray cost' is for your own reason, not the fault of the vinyl.

          you're quoting my comment but where did i say that was the "vinyl's fault"? my respray comment referred to removing the worn out plastidip, since your reading comprehension is so lacking.

          your comment is full of contradictions. "no way" vinyl will damage the paint but leave it too long and it will? lol which is it?
          putting new vinyl or even plastidip on damaged paint will still look trash because it'll show up faults in the paint, hence requiring a respray anyway if they want a decent result

          and plastidip is only a "nightmare" to remove because people don't read/listen to instructions to build up several, thin coats. i'm equally tired of the plastidip haters as much as i am of those who think it's some sort of miracle product.

          • @tdw: Your a real winner guy. Touched a nerve with the cheap DIY'ers lol. Your comment in no way referred to a respray being about plasti-dip and considering it was in response to someone talking about vinyl then you can guess what people will be 'comprehending' lol

            then blame the product. Pretty simple so how is your comprehension there? scrapping the barrel to pick apart what you can. When are we talking about putting vinyl on damaged paint? left field that one.

            No level of coats stops it from being a pain to get out of underneath griiles, badges etc. The guys that do plasti dipping on cars properly use proper spray guns, spray booths etc. It is a professional finish and looks great. Sure you can do some things out of a can but its like giving a blanket statement that my pressure pac paint can is as good as a professional paint job. Was nothing to get you knickers in a knot about, go back out and spray your hubcaps.

            • +1 vote

              @worthy1: my first sentence was literally, "i've had plastidip on my wheels since 2014." so now you want to backpedal and tell me i wasn't talking about plastidip at all? and the person i was responding to was asking about plastidip, in a thread about plastidip

              admit it, you're wrap-bro who got instantly triggered by someone talking about taking off their old wrap for plastidip and calls that "blaming the product."
              according to you Vinyl has a life span generally of 3-5 years so it's time they took it off anyway.
              are they not allowed to try something different?

              No level of coats stops it from being a paint to get out of underneath griiles, badges etc.

              so? that's what masking and bagging off areas is for and it's the fault of the person applying it, not the product.

              Was nothing to get you knickers in a knot about, go back out and paint your wheels brah.

              no need to champ. if you didn't have so many reading diffculties, you'd have noticed my original comment says the plastidip on mine are still going strong after 6 years ^_^

              • @tdw: hahaha this is hilarious. Wana talk about triggered. The only part of what you wrote that I quoted was around a respray. Whether it was about plasti dip or vinyl means nothing as I wrote nothing offensive about it. Merely stated 'its not the fault of the vinyl'. Big woop, what was so offensive about that to you. If I was able to make out the crappy way you wrote a paragraph to determine it was plasti dip and said 'its not the fault of the plasti dip' you would of still got your knickers in a knot? If your offended by that so easily then to cry about everything else then you need some serious help lol

                Like I mentioned I use plasti dip as well, only on wheels and badges. People pay me to do that and I would have done it a lot more then you. No issues with that, merely commented on the incorrect info about vinyl. Wrap-bro lol good one.

                Hands down the touchiest guy I have come across on here. Literally set off by the fact someone said 'its not vinyls fault' to one of their comments which by your accounts of incorrect removal meant not plast dips fault, so what. Go rub one out on your 6 year plast dipped ri9ms, might make you stress less plasti-dip-bro

                • @worthy1: ^ old mate here still can't read worth a damn and denies being triggered but types out a three-paragraph rant and negs me.

                  you're the biggest joke i've seen all week and i just saw Trump's Rose Garden speech.

                  • @tdw: Definitely not your mate and I feel sorry for anyone that is to be honest.

                    I reiterate my facts for the less sensitive among us, anyone that wants to cry about it can do so. (3 people agree with me, 1 cried about it, awww poor boy.)
                    - Vinyl wont ruin your paint when used right, neither will plast dip (this one is for the touchy guy TDW)
                    - Plasti dip is not more consistent nor more forgiving then vinyl
                    - Plasti dip is not as consistent to remove.
                    -If your vinyl is degrading, its time to remove/replace it

                    All these facts can be found online pretty easily.

                    Vinyl is a superior product to plasti dip, always will be (call me a wrap-boy), Paint is always superior to vinyl (call me a paint-boy), Nothing wrong with plast dip for certain things (call me a dip-boy), hey use it on your fully sick Honda accord rims like TDW. They all have their place but do your research on what you want.

                    • @worthy1: ^ old mate's gotta win the internet at all costs, even if it means throwing out his reading comprehension to do so.
                      "look at all those 3 people who agree with me"

                      parents, hug your children so they don't turn out like that lol.

                      • @tdw: And he is back everyone. Well no one agrees with you and the only fire you have is about 'reading comprehension', awesome, totally burns me.

                        Yes hug your kids everyone but don't let this guy near them….have a feeling he is on a few watch lists….

                        • -1 vote

                          @worthy1: ah yes, when you've got nothing else left in your bag of tricks, smear the other person as a pedophile.
                          but your lack of class was obvious a long time ago.

                          i'm female, btw. hope that didn't ruin your clever insult.

                          don't fret, at least you can go crow about the whopping 3 people agreeing with you like you're waving your chode about

                          • @tdw: And 'she' is back again ladies and gents.

                            Nope, joke still works for a Female so all good thanks….

                            Thanks for this afternoons entertainment though, love touchy people.

                            • -1 vote

                              @worthy1: oh i'm sorry, didn't realise you were still so triggered and desperate for the last word.

                              go on then, go for the glory hole.

                              • @tdw: Man she is still going. Look I realise tinder isn't working out for you and I'm flattered, I really am, but I am happily married. So as tempting as getting to cruise around in your full sick car decked out with plasti-dipped hubcap sounds, I'm good thanks.

      • Yes it was fitted well but it's only lasted 4 years, which is in the range you've quoted as expected.
        Why are you suggesting it wasn't fitted well?

        Also, what's the best way to remove it before it damages my paint?

        • It depends what you mean by 'not doing too good'. If it was a dodgy install then it would be things like lifting edges, wrinkly corners or bubbling. They wont effect removal, just the look. If it is faded or oxodised then that is a sign of ageing from exposure to UV, heat/cold. Its not so much the outside that is a worry from ageing, its the adhesive underneath. It still has to be pretty bad for it to do any damage, just more of a pain to remove more then anything.

          The best way is to heat it up. Usually summer is a good time to remove film as the sun can be used to heat the film uniformly. if not you can use a heatgun or even a hair dryer. A steamer is even better as it can rehydrate the adhesive. If its not bad you should be able to get it with out it tearing too much. If its a bit too aged it just mean it can come off bit by bit which makes it a pain in the butt. You might to get left over adhesive which if you cant get off with a couple of washes you can use a citrus cleaner like goo gone.

          • @worthy1: Thanks
            What I mean by not doing too good is it has oxidised so it needs to come off. We're in the middle of winter so the conditions aren't ideal. Can it wait 5-6mths for the weather to heat up?

            The reason I asked about plastidip is that it's cheap and might even look better than my vinyl does right now. I don't think it's worth reapplying vinyl if it only lasts 4 years. If I'm going to spend that much it will be better to just respray the roof with paint.

            • @JTTheMan: Sure although depending where you live the sun is still able to warm the film to start peeling it off.

              Absolutely. This is where people get confused, vinyl isnt designed to be used as a cheap paint job. It was designed to protect your paint although a lot of people use it for styling or a cheap paint job. I doubt you will get a quality paint shop to paint your roof for $3-400, but it is a lot more expensive then a can of plastidip so thats the way to go if thats what suits your budget.

    • and if you do decide to plastidip your roof, consider getting something called a can gun that clips over the spray nozzle. helps to avoid finger fatigue so you can do a smoother, even application on larger panels. and let it dry properly in-between coats.

  • I actually need a can of this stuff (wouldn't ever use this on a car) and was excited to see this pop up, but there nearest stock available is so far away it's not worth the fuel.

  • Is it possible to double-dip? Not that one should…

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