How Many Kms on a Mazda 3? (When They Have Major Issues)

Just curious, for those with the older Mazda 3s (2004-2008, 2009-2013 etc), how many kms did it last before it died/had significant and costly issues? Assuming that it was serviced at required intervals, taken care of etc. Are there any expensive and major issues that occur with high mileage? Obviously, its a vague open-ended question but just curious.


  • 2012 with 40k on the clock. Still going strong.

    Very expensive servicing. Each one at Mazda was at least $300 that kept creeping up every six months.

    Went elsewhere after they quoted me $1400 for a routine service. For a Mazda 3 Neo.

    • +30

      $1400 for a routine service what the hell

      • +1

        This wasn't the price for a "routine" service where "routine" means just engine oil and filters.

        This will be something like a major service item like a trans flush, timing belt (unlikely at 40k though) or something of the likes.

    • +37

      So you average 5000 kms per year, and get it serviced every 6 months?
      And I would hope most cars are still going strong after 40,000 kms.

    • +10

      A service is usually change oil & filter, rotate tyres and check belts and fluids. Even $300 for that is a rip off, $1400 is just a joke.
      Check the price of the oil and filter required which should easily be under $70 then that leaves $230 for 1 hr of labour to do the rest.
      Find another local mechanic. $200 or less for a basic service would be more realistic and probably even less if you supply the materials.
      When extra items need attention like air filter, auto transmission service or belt replacement then there would be extra cost there.

    • they quoted me $1400 for a routine service.

      All the more reason for people to find and retain a good independent mechanic.

      In all my years of car ownership, I've serviced at a $tealer after the free servicing period got over exactly once. That's how long it took me to realise they were ripping me off. And they didn't even do a good job with the service.

    • +5

      a screenshot of the quote

      Whole lotta inspections, not much doing.

      The six monthly servicing was a requirement at that time to keep warranty intact even for the bugger all kms I did. I thought I got a good price back then for the new car ($21xxx for an auto) but really just deferred any savings into their servicing and then some.

      • +3

        From the above quote - "Perform Engine Air Filter"

        Steaming bull$h!t served as spooky language right off the bat. My mechanic just replaces the air filter with a new one, but the $tealership is going to "perform" an engine an air filter as per the quote. Gee, that's probably why it costs that much.

        Besides, they wouldn't do diddly squat with most items under the "inspect" column unless something is obviously wrong (just so they could replace more stuff claiming something is seriously wrong and make more money).

        I had been to them for the Takata airbag recall thing, and they tried to tell me I needed to pay $1400 for replacing some "crucial component". I told them I already knew the clock spring was worn out if that's what they're referring to, and politely offered $10 if they wanted that job and they got the message. My mechanic quoted and replaced it for $280 or so IIRC.

        • +1

          I think they mean just to clean (probably vacuum) the intake filter. It isn't a replace so there will be no part cost for the quotation. I.e. Perform tasks, vs replace tasks.

          • @Reppunkamui:

            I think they mean just to clean (probably vacuum) the intake filter.

            You may be correct, but I'm not very sure. The quote clearly states "Engine Air Filter" as I've quoted. No matter how one twists that quote around, there's no justification for it to be that expensive.

      • Ya no way it costs that much… The replacement of fuel filter including part could be a couple hundred but not $1400 all up

        As my car is still under warranty.. I buy all the parts and they quote on labour. It pisses them right off as they can't mark up on parts but they'll still do it and you'll save heaps

    • +1

      I bet your Mazda still has a new car smell at 40k

      • Smells like glue

    • I own a 2012 Mazda 3 and i service it every 12 months log book. Cost me $249 - $295 at my local mechanic.

      Mine is at 90,000km

      Not sure why you want to get it serviced every 6 months?

  • +2

    My from new 2006 Mazda 3 SP23 BK1 got to 90,000km before I sold it - no problems other than a "broken plastic engine mount" (not covered by warranty but not crucial to fix either according to Mazda service at the time). Other than that a rear taillight went and it meant replacing the whole kit (it's not just a bulb/led) and was about $600 from a wrecker. However the standard 3s don't have that custom taillight :)

  • +2

    2010 Mazda 3 neo that i bought new. Got to about 110k km before i had some problem with a computer (can't remember what it did but it had something to do with the auto transmission) to fix was around $900.

    Other than that i have had no problems with it. I don't really take care of it either and it's always been parked on the street or in an uncovered driveway.

    • +1. Bought my 2010 SP25 second hand and the Transmission Control Unit died at about 115k on the clock. Cost me about $1200 to get it repaired. Fortunately I got a good deal on it in a private sale so that didn't hurt too much.

      But be wary, if you encounter this same problem, make sure they replace the wiring harness at the same time!

  • +1

    2014 Mazda 3 Maxx sport MY13 is on 103k KM, no problem so far.
    Only changed battery once at about 360 bux with dealer.

    • Man, should've come to me & I'll install it for $200

  • +8

    Should be good for 300k kms with regular maintenance and a mix of highway and suburban driving

  • +2

    Have a 2009 Mazda 3 Neo with 140k on the clock. No problems at all so far.

  • +1

    I have a 2009 Mazda 3 regularly serviced now at 169,000 klm It is Manual no problems only had to get a new engine mount at about 130,000 Klm

  • +3

    2004 Maxx Sport that has done 245,000km with no issues. I bought it in 2010 at 135,000km and I've had to pay for a set of tyres and a battery in that time, that's it. Serviced every 10,000km at an independent mechanic, who's worked on our family's cars for decades.

    We also have a 2010 SP25 that's done 130,000 (bought in 2016 at 70,000km) and again, no problems.

  • +4

    My ex had Major Issues without many km's on the clock :/

    • +63

      But how was her Mazda?

      • +58

        Intake was stuffed
        Back end needed panel repairs
        Far too many owners over a short period of time.
        Had an annoying whine
        Cost too much to maintain

        Not sure how her Mazda was tho

        • +2

          Guys be careful who you insult without knowing their name.. His ex could be married to any one of us now.

      • +24

        She was a bit of a witch, so more broom broom than zoom zoom

  • Just curios why you are curios? Planning on buying one? Planning on selling one?

    Mazda are pretty reliable. Just don’t by a diesel model, they have something in them that means you need to go back to the dealer to get the ‘thing’ reset.

    • +1

      I've actually got one nearing 200k and just wanted to find out whether there are any major things failing when they start hitting high mileage and for how long they normally are able to do

      • Unless you have a need to upgrade, keep it until you get a major failure. It’ll most likely last for a long time.

  • We have had 4 Mazda's in past 12 years and probably 400,000km over them and only major issue we has was something around a sensor for our turbo on our cx5 which was fixed under warranty.

    As boring as they are to drive they have always been rock solid, emphasised by my love of hot hatches which have been a totally opposite experience for me (and still bought another).

    • +1

      "As boring as they are to drive they have always been rock solid"

      Eh? Mazda is known among reviewers for being more capable of spirited driving than other mainstream car brands - you sometimes hear of the presence of MX-5 characteristics in their larger cars.

      • Mx5 is a legitimate sports car

        • Yes, of course it is a roadster. I hear the engineers try to bring the MX-5 handling and braking characteristics to their other cars and that is often commended by reviewers, that's all.

    • Cx5 is boring.

  • 2006 Mazda 3 with 280k on the clock
    No major issues.. Few small things here and there, but thinking of getting rid of it perhaps next year before my luck runs out

  • 2010 SP25. Bought it brand new. 80,000km. Just had its first major service. Never had an issue with it. I'll love it til the day it dies

  • Bought a new 2009 BL Neo {Auto} now have 128000kms on it no major issues only tyres and a battery. Gets an oil change every 6-7months. Never let me down yet.

  • +1

    100000 and I have this problem. Mazda 3 vibration Did everything to fix but I couldn't and many mechanics later still no luck. It happens only 40km -80km and only when I accelerate. When I turn the cruise on it goes away. So I use Cruise all the time instead and let it accelerate for me.

    • Tried new CV joints?

      • Yep changed the left side where the vibration is coming from and no fix. I think it's something to do with Transmission. But it's weird that it never happens when using cruise

  • +2

    They make their money on "routine checks"….
    Typical servicing can be conducted by you.
    If you can pour milk, then you can pour in oil.
    If you can take out the garbage, then you can take out the worn brakes.

    The car should tick on for 200,000km+

  • What do you call high kms?

    In general its best to buy with under 150,000km or better still under 100,000km
    Issues dont relate to distance unless you are talking over 200,000km
    They are more about owner neglect.

  • Bought a 2005 BK neo with 60,000km that was a repairable write-off . Traded it in when it had 210,000km. No engine issues but the driver side window stopped working a year before trade-in. I was too cheap to fix it and for 12 months had to deal with opening the car door for ticket machines - hated shopping centers..

  • Hi there, I have a 2007 Mazda 3 sp23, which I've owned for 5-6 years. Only problem I've had, which was around the 90-95k mark, was the engine temperature gauge broke - it had gunk all over it, which caused it to fuse shut despite the engine being at high temperature. This means it was not allowing enough coolant through to cool the engine, and the engine temperature gauge on the dash would be at max - if it blows it could seriously damage the engine. I noticed this for the first time while driving in the city (Sydney), so ended up turning the car off at red lights etc and starting up again to desperately try and make it home. Not fun.

    The fix is very easy - just replace the engine temperature gauge, which when done as part of a regular service, isn't much. The part itself is cheap, I think sub $50 from memory. Labour would be far less than an hour. Problem is, the mechanic I went to was lazy af, and didn't replace it. We went through all other possible causes (pump not working, coolant leak), and eliminated each one, until we came to this conclusion. In total 3 visits to the mechanics, but resolved without my engine blowing, and the car has been fine since. That was probably 1.5 years ago .

    Please note I drive very little, less than 5000kms per year typically.

    Other than that, and based on my research before purchase, the SP23 is a good car. The SP23 engine is made better than the standard, which my mate who was a mechanic told me, so yes I'd definitely buy again.

    • +1

      Not engine temperature gauge - thermostat.

      • Right you are haha, I was tryna think of the lingo!

        To the OP, I'll add service generally is about $300-350 a pop. Which is just the basics. Obviously my 100k service cost more. Probably 600 or so. But this included the recommended platinum spark plug replacement (exxy). If you go to cheaper places like MyCar, they'll just try and sell you tyres, tell you your tyres are all worn etc but if you don't buy them, the car service is still reasonable. More expensive places, such as independent garages, will charge $350 but won't pepper you with random stuff about having to replace this or that.

        Other than that, I will say, the car drives well but… seems noisy and vibratey. I think this is a known issue with mazda 3's. It's not a big deal but I do prefer quieter cars where the road noise isn't so constant

  • 2004 Mazda 3 sp23.
    At about 220000 KMs fuel pump went which was v expensive to fix

    • It's around $100 for the part and takes around 15 min to do. No clue why you think the fix is expensive. I've done a few on these (worked for mazda 2010-2013) and we would charge around $200-250 at my dealership. A bargain compared to some of the other models

  • +1

    2015 mazda 3 sp25 gt, 80,000km. no issues so far but expensive general servicing cost.

    • I have exactly the same model year and k's!, 2015 mazda 3 sp25 gt, 80,000km same no issues. is yours white as well?

      • Nah, not white haha.

  • 2004 Mazda 3 Neo, 230k on the clock.

    The clutch died at around 130k (manual car, known issue with model). Cost about $1k to repair but otherwise nothing's gone wrong with it.

    • Another 30k kms then another clutch, you think?

    • Him what symptoms did it start to show and what should I look for if I go test drive one? I'm actually considering buying the 2011 manual one and I am wondering if they have the same issues…

  • +1

    2012 Mazda 3 Neo having done 98k. Been self changing the oil and oil filter every 6 months and have no mechanical issues so far. Although there is a interior cosmetic issue of the dashboard glue unsticking, creating a gap between the dash and the display. Recalled that happening at around the 50k mark.

    • +1

      Yeah mine has the same dash issue. apparently its just a design flaw.

      • Out of curiosity, did you end up getting yours fixed? If so where, and approx how much was it to fix if you don't mind me asking. I haven't got around to fixing mine yet.

        • Nope no fix. I've read that it was covered under warranty but those days are gone for me.

        • I had a 2012 Mazda 3 MPS that has the dash popping issue, had it replaced under warranty in 2018, well after warranty period had ended as it was a a known fault.

  • Mazda 3 hatchback 2007 , 102k on the clock with no issue at all :)

  • my 1991 Honda Civic use has averaged about 3000km/year now up to about 195K on the odo

    I used to get an oil change every two years whether it needed it or not

    but since it developed a small sump oil leak I had to spend $100 on sump plugs and oil changes, etc. for pink slip rego each of the last 2 years

    this car has cost me $32K over 17 years of my ownership - half of that was rego & insurance.

    OUTRAGEOUS I tells ya - Someone Should DO Something !

    a friend car enthusiast told me this model is reputed to easily do 400K before needing major engine work.

  • +1

    2008 Maxx Sport sedan, 140k. Only had issues with the alternator (got it replaced) and the stupid rear windows. The window gear is crap and plastic so that's a common issue. Overall very happy with it.

    • Pretty much just plastic crap in all cars now. The good old days of solid metal and are belt drive are long gone.

  • I have a 2011 Mazda3 BL SP25
    3x fuel tanks replaced.

    • +1

      Someone pissing in your tank?

  • Had a 2009 Mazda 3 MPS, i had it for a few years and took it up to 120,000km.
    Never had any problems and i thrashed it a bit every now and then, would highly recommend

  • +1

    2007 SP23 with about 265,000km on the clock.

    I've had no major issues that wouldn't happen to any other car, cracked shock absorber at one point, wasn't that expensive to fix but that's about the only major thing, AC had a leak at one point but again not an expensive fix.

    I found servicing quite reasonable, between $250-300 through the dealer, probably double that for a major service. But at the moment I just get it done at MyCar given the cars age.

    My only real complaint is the AC isn't the strongest.

  • Had a 2006 mazda 6 done 240k kms with no issues apart from general maintenance

    Before that had a 1998 mazda 626 sold to my dad at 260k kms and he clocked that up to 650k kms on the original engine

  • 2015 Mazda 3 maxx here, bought as a demo with 500kms. Regularly serviced, just hit 45k, not one issue. About to be doing 500km+ per week so we will see how we go…

  • 2014 Mazda 3 SP25GT with 138,000KM. Not a single cent spent on repairs so far. Just regular servicing.

  • 2013 Mazda3 with 65000km
    No major issues. Regular service at dealer, but probably will change to local shop because it's cheaper

  • Disposed of a 2006 with 150,000km on the clock - no issues.

  • +2

    Mazda 3 2010 BL - 145k - When the Transmission Control Module failed that was the single most expensive part to obtain and replace. It cost $700 (not including labor) for a little computer looking unit that took no effort to replace other than removing the battery parts as this item was fitted under the battery.

    • $700 (assuming new) isn't a bad price. I currently have a Hyundai i40 and it's $3.5k per headlight (not including labor). TCM for my car is around $2k

      • +1

        it was reconditioned with 6 months warranty. Brand new was over 1k

  • 2012 Mazda 3 Neo, bought as a dealer demo car. Currently at 110,000 km's and going strong with no major issues.
    Dealer serviced every 10k km's.

    Replaced battery once.
    Replaced a cracked engine mount at around the 80k mark.
    Next service apparently I have to replace the front break bads, which is apparently meant to start squeaking in the next 5k or so. But with the lockdowns (VIC) i've barely been driving so, who knows when the next service will be.

    As a side note, I know my dealer (Ringwood) sends me surveys every time I get my car serviced. I did respond back that their prices are high, and now I have a permenant 10% discount applied on my account. Still even if the discount, its still more expensive then most but cant complain.

  • Hmm…Mazdas don'ts seems to get much on the odometers.
    Mine has had an easy life especially in the last 6 months

    Toyotas seems to get driven into the ground.

  • 2012 Mazda 3 neo. Bought 2 years ago with 75,000. Now done 145,000 with no major issues (other than self-inflicted).
    Has been a great car - depending on which way I leave home it sometimes gets a run on the very rutted 15kms of gravel/dirt road, has been in the paddock including one day to collect a sick baby calf (parents with 4wd were away), has been over a big kangaroo and clipped a few others, have driven out to some great camping/viewing spots in national parks and gotten looks like 'how did you get that in here?!'.

  • +1

    There's a good reason Toyota has the best selling cars.

    The battery on my friends Mazada 3 lasted less than 2 yrs, mine (Camry) lasted over 6 before it died.

    • +7

      Battery isn't typically an OEM item so that comparison is useless.

      • +1

        The Start/Stop feature on Mazda cars is a major battery killer.

        • Smart alternators on many newer cars is also a culprit.

    • -1

      There’s also a reason Mazda are near the top of the tree as well. After corolla (3rd) and i30 (4th). Mazda 3 (7th) is next on the hatchback list, just behind the Mazda CX5 (6th). 1, 2 and 5 are utes.

  • 2007 Model, just hit 150k , No issues so far, Front Disc brakes will need to be replaced or machined next service in about 20,000 according to my mechanic.

  • I have a 2010 neo with 170000kms done, regular services, and still going strong.

  • +1

    I worked for Mazda back in the day (2010-2013) doing servicing apprenticeship and they are decent cars. I have service and driven many. One that is poorly serviced (i.e. treated like crap and had gaps in history 150-200kkm and a well serviced one (mainly business) 250kkm+ easy. Just check the thing has a full service history and get a mechanic to look over before buying it. It's very easy to tell if one hasn't been service (carbon buildup in cam).

    As far as costs, parts are similar to Toyota and mechanical labor costs would be the same as any other car. They are simply laid out and designed to cut back on labour costs for warranty work.

    Personally I would recommend a toyota (because parts are everywhere and aftermarket is easy to come by), but Mazda is also a great choice. Kia is also a great player. If you go Kia, any car made after late 2013 will have the 7 year warranty.

    Edit: Also check where the car is made. The Jap made ones are solid (in both 2 and 3 series), but when we started the get the Thai or Malaysia made ones, you could see the quality wasn't as good (especially in interior)

  • 2011 Mazda3 manual - 115k and still going well. Paint has died in the arse but. Funnily enough have noticed a few other Mazda's driving around with similar paint issues recently, but that's probably Baader–Meinhof.

    • Failing paint on a nine year old car is disappointing.

      • Not sure if /s or not, but it is. Also didn't do anything about it early enough. Now not economical to repair (properly).