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Creality3D Ender 3 $235, Ender 3 Pro $289, Ender 3 V2 $319 Delivered at dealagain via eBay


A popular entry-level 3D printer. Ebay is showing limited stock.

Arty.R pointed out that the Ender 3 Pro can be purchased for $243 using this deal: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/596627. I tried it and it actually cost me $235.99.

Printing size of all 3 models: 220 x 220 x 250mm
No auto-levelling of the bed. For this, consider a more expensive model ~$500.
Not direct drive. Direct drive is better for printing TPU which is a flexible filament.

Benefits of Pro over the standard Ender 3:
* Sturdier extrusion for Y-axis base. Improves overall stability of printing surface.
* A Meanwell brand power supply. Thinner, quieter and all-around better.
* Fan relocated to make it less susceptible to falling bits of filament.
* Removable, flexible, textured magnetic printing bed makes it easier to remove prints and gives better print adhesion.

Benefits of V2 over the Pro model:
* Silent motherboard.
* Glass tempered bed.
* 4.3 inch HD color screen (not touch)
* Knob for adjusting belt tension.

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closed Comments

  • +4

    It can work continuously for 200 hours without pressure.

    Ahahahahaha no. Anyone who knows anything about printing knows they can not run for that long without some sort of issue.

    • +1

      Ahhh… sorry… that's just copy and paste from eBay 😁

    • +3

      My Ender 3 has done 50-100 hour prints just fine.

      • 50-100 continuous printing or it actually stops/rest/gets turn off and back on?

        • Continuous print jobs. I don't like stopping and starting due to print artefacts.

          I even ran it at 60mm/sec. Stepper motors were warm but I attached heatsinks to all of them so they didn't skip during such a long print.

      • i did a 50 hours print without problem. if the power gets interrupted, it will resume where it left off

    • +2

      I think Prusa print farms run non stop at their factory to print all their parts..


      Even other print farms probably run continuously.

    • If you can manage to change filaments, they should be able to print. Though I dont think any print would take that long, surely.

      • Yes, prints can take that long. A largish cube bin in high detail, with speed set at 7- for precision will do it. Even more if it is 'solid' (infilled)

        A Raspberry Pi case can take from 6 hrs to 20+ hrs, plus lid.

    • +3

      But only 2 hours at 1 atmosphere.

      • Lol I just got that…

  • +4

    Excellent cheap beginner 3D printer.

    It's an amazing starting point to learn, there will be problems and there will be troubleshooting though! Unless you're lucky.

    • +8

      Yeah,.. I massively regret getting my ender 3 pro. Problems and trouble shooting for hours and hours.
      To be honest I spent more time waiting to take to mine with a sledge hammer more than actually getting things to print correctly.
      Hours and hours on YouTube to learn how to do things correctly. $100’s spent on mods to auto level etc and still inconsistent enough for me to hate mine.
      Should have just bought a more expensive one from the get go that was better.
      That’s just me though.

      • I had bent Z lead screw, warped bed, bad alignment. All fixed with a bit of time and about $50 though.

      • +4

        Knowing what you know now, what would you have chosen and at what budget?
        Is it a hobby worth persisting in, in your opinion?

        • Yeah it's like to know this too…?

        • +3

          You learn a lot by getting these machines compared to a high end one. I got an anet a8 years ago, and have pretty much rebuilt it now. But I've learnt so much - wouldn't have it any other way.. But I like to tinker etc.
          If you want a plug and play machine, then these may not be the ticket

        • +2

          If I was a beginner, I would get this again.

          In my current position, now that I've done tinkering, I would build my own 3d printer from high end parts. Like a Sec-Kit GO maybe.

        • +3

          Personally, if I had my time over again I would look for one with auto bed leveling out of the box.
          It would save you so much time it’s crazy.
          Yes you can add it (like I did) but then you need to buy the sensor, then print the mount, then measure how far away the sensor is from the nozzle, then replace the mainboard to support said sensor.
          Or,…. just get one that does it right away.
          I thought to myself “I’ll get this to see how I go, then maybe upgrade “
          Before I knew it I had spent more upgrading the damn thing than what it cost in the first place.

          Others will not have the same opinion, but you see auto leveling ones on here every now and again for like $500ish and I can’t stress enough how much time that would save.
          Or if you like to tinker, constantly than maybe something like this is for you.
          Just my 2c though.

        • +3

          If you want to get into it cheaply, and don't mind tinkering, buying/making upgrades and consider the printer itself as part of your hobby, then the Ender 3 is great. You'll learn a lot, but there are tons of resources, and lots of people selling parts.

          If you just have projects in mind that you want to print (like mini's, enclosures, or props) then you probably want something that will just work out of the box. Something like Prusa i3 MKS3 would be better (but you'll pay for it).

          (Edit: I started with a CR10 which is somewhere in between. If I was going to start again, I think I'd get a something similar or a Prusa)

        • It depends on what you want to get out of 3d printing.

          If you want to get into 3d printing for the sake of 3d printing these are a fantastic starting point. Very capable printers but aren't perfect and if you can solve the issues that these will throw at you, you will learn a truckload. Very rewarding process imo.

          If you want to get into 3d printing to further other hobbies, these units will do but they are frustrating more often than not. Fork out for a prusa 10 times out of 10 if you want or need something that just works.

      • It's definitely best for if you want to learn about them by maintaining it yourself.

      • +5

        Have been a happy Ender 3 Pro user for about 6 months with about 200 hours of total use. Took some time in the beginning to learn this stuff but now works like a Swiss clock without a hiccup. There are simply no mechanical parts to break. I was thinking about autolevelling mod but once I practiced it a bit with a piece of paper, I can level the bed now in 1-2 min. Practice it and you don't really need to spend extra money for this mod.

        I also have a Raspberry Pi connected via USB with Octoprint software installed on it. It adds web UI and a lot of useful plugins, like automatic filament load/unload, print job monitoring, controls, web camera etc. You can even send your new print job over network from Cura to the 3D printer like if it was a normal paper laser printer. So, I don't use its control knob and only use the screen to monitor the status and ETA for the job (yes, Octoprint can change what you want to see on that screen).

        Maybe I should consider a more expensive model but I would probably need one only when I want to print something beyond standard Ender 3 dimensions.

        • +1

          Octoprint is magic! I also have an old phone (from recycling bin!) and use the camera from that. Forget about all these devices that add wifi to the printer.

          My octoprint is being upgraded atm to a docker version that launches on demand.

      • Only issue I have with mine is what to bloody do with it.

  • One thing to note is that the Ender 3 is not really designed to print flexible / rubbery materials. TPU is a common (the only?) flexible material used for 3D printing. A 'direct drive' printer is recommended for flexible materials. Flexible materials can be used to create molds, for example.

    • I haven't tried it yet but I bought some flexible pla off 3dfillies for my ender.

      • +1

        Cool. Let us know how you go.

        • I've used the 3dfillies flexible pla. You gotta get the right temperature and speed. For me it's about 15mm/sec speed and really low temp,170 degrees.

          Took me ages to figure out it needs such a low temp

          • @Herbse: their PLAFlex printed perfectly fine at stock settings on my CR10s pro which uses the same bowden setup. 190C/50C @ 60mm/s.

            • @GUYANDSON: I'm thinking of getting the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Creality-CR-10S-Pro-V2-3D-Printe...

              Would you say its worth the upgrade price? over the ender 3 v2?

              • @jtb: If the extra build volume is vital go for it.

                It has its own issues though, the included ABL sensor is pretty bad and the x-axis going off level with the dual z system can be frustrating. Relatively easy fixes though ($20 sensor and a $10 worth of bits for a z sync mod).

                If the build volume isn't a huge deal but you'd like to do bigger prints one day I'd consider modifying the Ender 3. Ender extender kits can get you to an overall bigger build volume. ABL sensors are cheap and easy to implement. Same with a Dual Z mod and a filament runout sensor.

                Both will get you excellent quality prints out of the box though.

                • @GUYANDSON: Thanks for taking the time to respond mate. Very much appreciate your opinion.

    • Chuck some Capricorn tubing in or convert it to direct drive and you'll be fine with flexi filaments.

    • You can print a direct drive mod - I used a printed mount for about 18 months without issue.

      I recently upgraded to a MicroSwiss DD, but I can’t tell the difference in print quality compared with my old printed bracket.

  • Can I use this to print small paintable models? Wonder if I can get a small business running…

    • +1

      Absolutely. Google printing miniatures on Ender 3.

    • +9

      You would be better with a resin printer.

      And probably not, its been saturated.

      • Never know until you try it.

    • +5

      There's a whole other type of 3D printer which can print miniatures with high detail known as resin printers. They start pretty cheap, are a little messy but the results are very good for small items.

      e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAUCfU-i0yI

    • You definitely can - it's why I got my Ender 3 Pro. However after about a year of use I've pulled the trigger on a 4k resin printer as the detail and resolution you can achieve for minis in resin is CRAZY in comparison (roughly a minimum of 0.8 for Ender, 0.4 - 0.2 on a resin printer).

      I would definitely use my Ender for continuing to print larger elements (terrain, dice towers etc.) but for the small 28 - 30mm minis I'd suggest looking at resin.

  • Bargain! I have the V2 and print nearly every day without issue, the glass bed alone makes the V2 the better pick.

    • What’s your favorite filament to print with?

      • +1

        I use the PLA+ from 3dfillies - looking to venture out into other materials soon and make an enclosure.

        • +2

          I also +1 3dfillies. Have some rolls of Petg from them as well

    • what are the difference between the 3,
      ender 3

      • +3

        From my understanding the pro is sturdier than the normal ender 3 but they are very similar. The V2 however is quieter and has a glass bed instead of a metal one which is the biggest upgrade as it's more level, bottoms of prints are smoother and less likely to build up residue. If you're technical and 'hacky' you can just dip your toes buying the ender 3 and just upgrade it bit by bit, lots of tutorials on youtube.

      • +1

        The main difference, aside from the V2 frame and design is the electronics. Better power supply and main board.

        However even the silent board in the V2 is not without issue. It uses the TMC2208 drivers which cannot do linear advance and have really been superseded by the 2209. It might only be an 8-bit board.

        In some respects you would save money by getting the Pro model with the better power supply and putting in a 32 bit board with 2209 drivers and auto-bed-levelling - BUT you need to like tinkering and will have to feel confident about redoing the firmware.

        Have a look at Creality on Reddit.

    • +1

      Looks like the glass bed can be had for $25~ from ebay? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ULTRABASE-HEAT-BED-GLASS-PLATE-F...

  • Off topic but I just came to know that you can even 3D print, 3D printer itself - https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/best-articles-ab...

  • -1

    Other links?

    • All 3 models can be purchased from the same link. Select the desired model in the 'Size' dropdown list.

  • +6

    There is literally a concurrent deal going on from Gearbest to get the Ender 3 pro for $243, https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/596627

    • Thanks buddy, bought one.

      I already have two and it's been working well for me after some upgrades.

    • Wow, I was happy when I picked up my Pro for $280. That's an incredible price!

    • Cheers. Paid $233.07 using ING

  • I'm waiting for the Ender 3 V2 rev. A

    • Has that even been announced?

  • +1

    What things could I print? Need some inspiration…

  • +4
    • Wow, same seller too!?? haha

    • +6

      V2 at $315 before ebay plus 10% off
      Pulled the trigger for a $283.50 Ender 3 V2

      I’m fully convinced it’s going to be a waste of money, I hope it proves me wrong!

      • +1

        Far out - awesome deal! $80 cheaper than what I paid a few months ago.

      • Nice find.

        I have an Ender 3 Pro but wish I'd bought the V2 instead.
        I've spent a lot more buying silent motherboard, glass bed, yellow springs, touchscreen LCD etc - half of which I haven't even fitted yet.

      • awesome deal. i bought v2 a few months back for $50 or so more. glad I got the v2.

      • Now there's a bargain, I paid over $400.

      • Thanks! ordered one from here with eBay plus.

      • They increased the price to $325 before 10% discount…but bought one. Thanks!

        • Yeah I noticed that also… still very tempted to buy it.

      • Good find, got one too!

      • how did you get extra 10% off? still available?

      • +1

        bugger they raised it to $325, got one with 10% off anyway!

  • +1

    I've always wanted a 3d printer mainly for printing children's toys and I'm addicted to hanging my items around the place ie. Tools, game controllers, guitars etc.

    The above comments turn me off this model a bit.

    Where do you source the materials too? Is it cheap enough?

    Any websites that you recommend for builds?

    I'm not all concerned about payback for the machine but for time and effort those that own one do you feel it's just easier to purchase items in shops / Amazon?

    • There is a big community behind this printer. If something is not working, you can usually find a good tutorial on youtube. It can take alot of time to get improve on what you have, but if you put it together following a good tutorial, you should be able to print pretty easily straight off the bat

    • +1

      People pick this printer because it punches way above it's weight for price, if you know phones it's kind of like the OnePlus series of phones, really good bang for your buck. You could spend over a $1000 and have an out of the box easier printer as you do have to build this one, but if you're used to following youtube tutorials and can put an ikea desk together it's not that complicated. If you don't have patience with fixing little issues, or completely tech illiterate - ie. don't know how to google for a problem, then it may not be the machine for you.

      The best thing about this printer is the community. Every possible issue or upgrade is well documented on youtube/facebook groups/reddit so you can easily find and answer and dial it in to be an amazing printer. Or if you simply want to dip your toes into 3d printing there's many beginner tutorials for this model on youtube. Maybe watch one to get an idea of what's involved?

      The V2 has a lot of the little upgrades people who buy the 'ender 3' and 'ender 3 pro' wish they had or end up upgrading to anyway.

      To answer some of your questions, 3d printing is awesome for making hooks, mounts and toys, plenty can be found on www.thingiverse.com. You simply find a design you like on there, run it through a program like Cura, save it to the sd card and print on the machine. I source the PLA material off 3dfillies, for around $30 a 1kg roll. Most 3d prints end up only being a few grams each, just depends. Cura will give you a heads up on how much will be needed. It's easier to buy the toys and mounts for sure, but it's pretty fun to go 'f** that i'll just print it' and a few hours later you have it ready :)

  • I have had alot of issues with the glass bed with prints not sticking. Tried glue but was messy and didn't fix the problem always. Went back to magnetic bed and prints are perfect again. One thing worth checking or considering.

    • +2

      Try hairspray. Works a treat for my glass bed.
      Keep it away from the gears and belt though…

      • ^ This. Hairspray lightly over the bed does wonders on my glass bed. Don't use UHU very messy.

    • +1

      i also had this problem - what worked for me is cleaning the bed with alcohol and a paper towel (had some from chemist). my prints stuck way way better after that. now i just clean it every 5 or so prints.

    • I’ve never used glue when I was using a glass bed (have now switched to PEI - magic) You do have to keep it clean.

      Once I got the correct Z height, correct flow-rate and the best temp, there were never sticking probs. At the start I had it too low, so the first layer was too thin and lumpy.

      I print a 100mmx25mm single layer rectangle (ie 0.2mm high) with a second layer at 50mmx25mm. If you can see gaps between the lines you are too high. If it is all smeared or lumpy you are too low…. or your flow rate is wrong. Sometimes the first layer looks okay but the second layer will be lumpy because the first layer is not right. You can also print your first layer slightly thicker - eg 0.24mm - to allow for bed variation.

    • Was having similar problems - regular clearing with IPA spray fixed almost every issue.

      You could also look at using Rafts to help adhesion, and upping the first layers temp to make sure it's very sticky.

      I haven't needed to use glue at all after a good cleandown.

  • +1

    Still running mine 2 years later! Quite popular too so there are heaps of mods you can do simply by printing the parts out. Absolutely outstanding introductory printer.

  • What about the AnyCubic? Mate got one a while back and was pretty happy with it. I can't say much more than that about them though.

  • Can any of these 3 models print with TPU filament?

    • They all use a Bowden extruder which is not ideal for TPU. A direct drive extruder is recommended for TPU. Commenters above have had success with PLAflex.

      Maybe check out Artillery 3D printers for anentry-level TPU printer. Or Sovol.

      • Cheers mate. Will do

  • delete, duplicate comment.

  • +1

    OP recommended to get the more expensive one with auto-leveling. What would you recommend?

    • +3

      I added a BL touch probe to my Ender 3 Pro for around $50.

      I would not go back to manual levelling again - with auto levelling (once set up) you can just hit print and walk away knowing it's going to work, with consistent results every time.

      No mucking around with knobs/paper for a couple of mins between each print or few prints.

      After a year when you have wasted many hours manually levelling the bed 100 times, you will wish you had paid the extra $$.

      If I was buying again I'd get the V2.

      • Can you please let us know where did you buy BLTouch from ? every place I look, it costs like 80. Maybe you bought it few years ago and price changed since.

        • +1

          I bought my first 3D printer 4 months ago, so it was fairly recent.

          $52 from Aussie warehouse. Note you only need half the items in this kit (I did not need the grey ribbon cable with the USB flash thing or green circuit board).


          • @systmworks: This is a fantastic price. You just saved me $30, thank you! I believe parts you had left over is for original ender 3 and other models with older motherboard, going by the YouTube tutorials I wouldn't need them too, as I'm getting the Ender 3 V2.

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