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Creality3D Ender 3 $235, Ender 3 Pro $289, Ender 3 V2 $319 Delivered at dealagain via eBay

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A popular entry-level 3D printer. Ebay is showing limited stock.

Arty.R pointed out that the Ender 3 Pro can be purchased for $243 using this deal: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/596627. I tried it and it actually cost me $235.99.

Printing size of all 3 models: 220 x 220 x 250mm
No auto-levelling of the bed. For this, consider a more expensive model ~$500.
Not direct drive. Direct drive is better for printing TPU which is a flexible filament.

Benefits of Pro over the standard Ender 3:
* Sturdier extrusion for Y-axis base. Improves overall stability of printing surface.
* A Meanwell brand power supply. Thinner, quieter and all-around better.
* Fan relocated to make it less susceptible to falling bits of filament.
* Removable, flexible, textured magnetic printing bed makes it easier to remove prints and gives better print adhesion.

Benefits of V2 over the Pro model:
* Silent motherboard.
* Glass tempered bed.
* 4.3 inch HD color screen (not touch)
* Knob for adjusting belt tension.

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closed Comments

      • A lot of my levelling issues were solved with fiddling with the beds' eccentric nut to get it properly flat, and upgrading to yellow screws (which are FAR better at holding tension than the piddly default ones).

      • No mucking around with knobs/paper for a couple of mins between each print or few prints.

        Huh? I leveled my bed the first time, and then one or two tweaks after that and then it's been fine ever since. Why would you need to re-calibrate it every few prints? that's just not how it works.

        • It really does seem to be luck of the draw. My friends Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro both seem to be mostly stable (the Pro requires levelling every 5 to 10 prints, the 3 barely at all) whereas my Ender 3 V2 needs re-levelling every 3 or 4 prints.
          I've taken the plate apart, reset the eccentric nut, re-levelled the Z rail, rebuilt it from scratch - everything to try fix it. There really seems to be a wide margin of actual build tolerance from the factory that affects these things.

          I've bought some much stronger yellow springs now and so far so good.

    • Maybe look at a Prusa? I don't really know much about 3D printers to be honest.

    • +3

      I'd recommend buying the V2 and dip your toes in learning the manual levelling (with a piece of paper) method. Then if it's annoying and after a few months you're still interested in 3d printing you can do one of two things:

      1) Try the stiffer yellow springs on the bed, they're only a few dollars on ebay. I can do 10 prints and I don't even have to re-level but I do anyway and I only notice it's a slight fraction out with the paper.

      2) Buy a BL Touch auto levelling kit, roughly $50 and add it to the printer anyway by following a YouTube tutorial.

  • Hi. I have absolutely no idea about 3D printers. Say, if I want to copy some figures/shapes, is there a way to 3D scan those samples and 3D print them , just like making a copy in a different material? If not possible to do it at home, are there shops that can do this sort of service? Thanks

    • There are mobile phone apps that can scan in an object - but you need a turntable and phone mount for accuracy.
      3D print one: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=phone+scanner&type=thin…

      This one is popular - but there are simpler options. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1762299

      • Thanks for info. I guess from 3D scanning to 3D printing is still a long and complex process, since you need to make the measurements correctly to print the exact copy of the sample, right?

        • Not sure sorry - it's not something I've tried or looked into.
          I'm sure there are good YouTube videos about it.

          Once a model is imported into Slicer software (Cura etc) it's easy to scale the X/Y/Z axis to match exact dimensions.

  • How does the warranty work for something like this, in particular the cheaper deal that was listed above, which doesn't mention a warranty in the listing that I can see?

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Creality-3D-Printer-ENDER-3-V2-D…

    Better to pay a bit more and buy the V2 for ~ $330 delivered direct from Creality themselves for warranty purposes, or can you deal directly with Creality if bought via eBay (authorised reseller only?), or…?

    • Thats a good question. I believe Creality (who sell/ship worldwide) should provide warranty support no matter who its bought through - but I have not needed to try.

      Because the printers are so modular, most of the components can be bought stand alone for $5 - $50 ea if warranty is not available.
      I bought an improved BTT silent motherboard for around $50. Plus a BTT LCD touchscreen for around $50. Stepper motors are around $20 ea.

      • Cheers - think I might wait for a deal or just spend the extra $40 and buy the V2 direct from Creality.

  • +1

    I got my Ender 3 V2 for 3 months now, it's my first and only printer and I'm very happy with it. It worked right out of the box and printed fine. It requires upgrade to print other materials but it's great for pla. I wouldn't bother with the ender 3 and ender 3 pro as they do need the extra upgrades which came with the V2 to produce nice print. As for bed leveling, it only took me 5 minutes and maybe required adjustment once a month, it's really not that difficult to do so, I doubt that auto leveling is important. I did bought some upgrades to produce better print but I consider that part of the fun.

    • +1

      What filament brand do you recommend?

      • eSun filaments, don't buy the unbranded ones from ebay. eSun filaments are better at similar price, stronger and more color option.

        • Sweet, have you run in to any layer shifting issues with longer prints yet? Seems to be a fairly common issue after reading on reddit.

          • @nagel: It happened once to a print that takes 9 hours to finish but it only shifted a slight bit on 1 layer. I'm not sure if that's the common issue.

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