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[Club Plus] Ridge Ryder 12" LED Driving Light Bar 60W $20.30 + Delivery ($0 C&C) @ Supercheap Auto

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Ridge Ryder 12" LED Driving Light Bar 60W are on clearance and you get the extra 30% off for the club members taking the price down to $20.30. Works out really cheap these have been sitting at $70 for ages. Stock these should perform great compared to the smaller 3 and 5w LED light bars.

This light bar uses 6 Cree XML2s @ 10 watts each, you can easily enough reflow most 5050 size led onto the PCB. You can find the XML2 in NW or even WW should only cost a around $4-5 each.If you wanted extra power you could reflow the 3v XHP50.2 the electronics might need some modding. If you want to change the tint and keep the same LEDs you can dedome the XML2 and it will give it a more NW tint.

(I am modding one using the XHP50.2 and slicing the domes for a better tint)

Specs

.Length: 12 Inch
.Powered by 6 x 10W Cree LEDs
.Suitable for use in 12V and 24V applications
.Spot beam and flood beam combination
.3900 lumen output
.Cool white 6000K Colour temperature
.Provides IP67 dust and water protection
.Die cast aluminium housing and polycarbonate lens

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closed Comments

  • +1

    Has anyone used this type of auto lighting for home/garden lighting? Ie as a wall washer.

    • +1

      had something similar, works any 12/24v dc transformer, good amount of light, but you need to take the reflectors off, as the light tends to beam in certain areas rather than a uniform flood light

      • +2

        Make a diffuser for it, cut an old milk bottle up and place it over the lens.

    • Wall washer typically has tighter beam but yeah same idea

    • +1

      I did this to a light bar that got hit by a roo and works great but needed to take the reflector out. Just used a standard 12v power supply.

  • Going to mount this on your camry

    • Its the perfect size (that's what she said) for a sedan or hatch its only 12 inches long. If you had a proper bull bar you would want a few of these or the 24 inch model.

  • No stock near me…

  • +2

    At first I thought this was an AIO cooler for PCs and I thought wtf how much cooling do you need?

  • Cheers OP, Got 1 for a reverse light on the rear bar

    • Overkill Bastard Light?

      • Negative, purely reverse only no separate switch.

  • Gonna grab one, also looking to add a couple of 6 inch or smaller lights to my ATV but proving hard to find something decent. Anyone have recommendations? They would be replacing the headlights.

  • Always wanted to have a go at wiring one of these

    Thanks OP, got one.

    • If you got separate high/low beams on your car you can get plugs that attach to your high beams wiring. The light bar will turn on with your high beams. Say your high beams are a H4 globe the kit will have an adaptor for a H4 plug.

      • I've got a 2010 CRV so no idea at this stage
        But will give that a look.

        Do they come with a switch for the inside?

        • Yea they can be manually switched on with a switch you place inside the car or switched on with your high beams .

  • How are these as light bars? Good distance?

  • got 2 for bull bar as side lights

  • Would be keen to use this to illuminate my subfloor while I'm down there. What sort of 240v-12v converter would I need to permanently install it as a flood light?

    • +3

      It says it works with both 12 and 24v so maybe try a 60+w laptop adapter if you have one laying around.
      At 12v it would be drawing around 5amps so a halogen down light transformer should work fine.
      https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-12v-downlight-transformer_p4…

    • +3

      If Price Jack's link below is correct, these lamps will work from anywhere between 9~60V DC, so aussieprepper's suggestion of a laptop charger is perfect. Most pre-USB-C laptop chargers put out 19V, so make sure yours supplies at least 3.2A. They could even be run from USB-C with PD with an extra control board from eBay.

      Use the formula W = V * A. Divide 60W by the V on your power supply to work out how many A it needs to supply. The A value doesn't have to be exact, it just needs to be enough to make sure that V*A= at least 60W eg for a 19V laptop power supply you could use 3.2A, or 3.5A, 4A, 5A etc PSU.

      Old desktop PC power supplies are free from council cleanups, and most will easily supply 20A or 30A at 12V. It's very easy to add an on/off switch by just hooking any switch between the green wire and any black wire.

      BTW I bought two of these and they only seem to draw about 45W which is confirmed by Price Jack's link, so the 60W is just marketing. But it's still a good idea to allow at least an extra 20% tolerance with your power supply amperage calculations, just to be safe. So a 55W supply should be fine.

  • Thanks OP. Got last 2 at the local store. More available at stores nearby though.
    The build quality looks decent, especially for the price. Much better than ebay ones a similar size.

    Will be keen to see how they go with XHP50.2's.
    I might also try one out with amber/yellow leds to low mount for a fog light.

  • am i allowed to turn these lights on when driving on normal roads? considering it's 60 watts and a normal headlight is 55 watts?
    what are the rules about car headlights in NSW?

    • Treat them like high beams. You can use them with your high beam only.

      Low beams (or 'normal headlight') must be angled low and have a large beam spread so they don't dazzle oncoming traffic.

      • +2

        It’s probably worth mentioning they also have to be wired with a switch and relay to the high beam so that when the high beams are dipped these turn off.

  • +3

    For anyone wanting to mod/hack this, it's the same as https://www.jclighting-electrical.com/JC10118B-60W-Cree-LED-….

    It uses 2x 3 LED PCBs. The output mosfet it uses is the STN442D for each PCB. Driver is a GM9910B.

    • +1

      I think to use different LEDs, the parallel pair R2 and R4's values need to change.
      The formula appears to be I = 0.275 / Rcs.

      With the default values of 0.22ohms for R2 and R4 (Rcs=0.11ohms), I = 2.5A. The max current for a XM-L2 is 3A.

      For XHP50.2's and provided the rest of the circuit can handle it, I'd probably try replacing both R2 and R4 with a single 0.068 resistor to give ~4A or a single 0.056 for ~5A.

      If something smokes it up, it is only a $20 light bar afterall…….

      • XML2 should be able to handle around 5.5amps over driven depending on how it's mounted and should beable to do 1600 lumens depending on the bin.
        Even if you don't over drive it, you can get the T6 4C bin XML2 for like $4 each from kiadomain. They are a 4000-4500k tint.

        • True. I'd definitely use a better quality heatsink paste under the PCB though.
          Good point on the better XML2 bins and definitely worth trying for most people…..even with a mild overdrive (3 - 4A).

          I'm still keen to try XHP50.2s. Though trying to find a 3V one with tint 5000k or under with a CRI of 70 and over is a challenge.

  • Got three. I'm greedy. Actually one for brother's ute and two for the bullbar I have yet to build for my Surf.

  • Can anyone link me to a suitable wiring harness? Complete n00b here.

    • +1

      https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261208715414

      This sort of thing will work. You may need to chop off the connectors at the light bar and hard wire them. If you are using two light bars then search for a driving light harness

      • Thanks mate, I am just using the one in this post - it has to stripped wires that need to be connected to something, so will give this a look.

  • Can someone help me out?

    I've got this mostly down, but my car has HB3 headlights.

    Seeing as the harness I have has two forked connections to go to the highbeams, I am unsure how to connect them as there doesn't appear to be a way, without cutting and soldering.

    Would this work? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123831660649?hash=item1cd4f13069…

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