At Autobarn, instore only, Max 2 per customer. Can place a click and collect order online
From the website blurb:
"Premium Energy 10W-30 is a semi synthetic low viscosity, energy conserving premium grade passenger car engine oil offering the latest in API additive technology and fuel efficiency standards"
Meets the following specs:
"API SP, ILSAC GF-6A, Ford WSS-M2C-945A/946A, Chrysler MS6395."
Never used it myself but seems crazy cheap for 5L of 10W-30 semi-synth oil.
I am not so well versed in engine oils so maybe someone else will be able to advise better but i used the Gulf Western Oil Checker and put Toyota Hybrid camry 2012-17 and it lists this as one of the oils recommended for your car
It doesn't list it as an option for my car but the 10W-30 weight is listed in my manual so i will use it as I am sure it is more than acceptable in a 2004 car
Hope it helps!
Cheers!
Will be fine for our climate. I think it shows as ok in your handbook, take a look.
I can't give you a definitive answer, but my father in law always suggests 10w-30 for Japanese cars which have 5w-30 factory spec. He ran a mechanics business for 37 years in Gold Coast so I guess it could be a climate thing. Not an expert but I'll buy some for my Subaru. Thanks OP!
Protip - Toyota have an official website where you can download owners manuals and service booklets for any of their vehicles. Here is yours:
https://toyotamanuals.com.au/docs/camry-hybrid-owners-manual…
Page 335 has a lubrication chart that shows acceptable viscosity vs operating temperature. Yours can use 10W-30 as long as temperatures are above -18C. You should be fine.
Thanks OP! On sale until 5 September.
thx, updated the listing
nice deal!!! bought 2 😀😀
Thanks OP bought 5. Enough for 3 services to my Falcon. Cheers
No probs :). The website says max 2 per customer and larger orders will be cancelled and refunded just fyi
Oh. Thanks. No problem
This for petrol engine right
Hi .. I service my corolla 2006 myself and use 10w40 …just wondering will this be better switch the engine is 1zzfe 1.8 auto
Your handbook will say it is.
Hi .. I service my corolla 2006 myself and use 10w40 …just wondering will this be better switch the engine is 1zzfe 1.8 auto
Is this OK for a 1995 Honda Integrra gsi with 160k on the clock? (Relatively good condition engine for its age in years)
Yes, but Id probably only do 1 service then switch to a 40W as we're heading into summer.
Source; I build my own B and K series engines.
Wow this is so cheap I might buy some for my Tesla!
Good thinking! You can oil the door hinges.
…for the next 80 years
Hope you pricelocked latest 7eleven deal. I know these are thirsty beasts
My Honda and Bushranger mowers thank you :)
Right in time for spring mowing here in Vic.
Remember to change the oil atleast every 25 hours use on your 4 stroke gardening gear ;)
(Shout out to all the lawn mowing contractors here on Ozbargain)
Considered this as a career path but get mild allergies… Vitamin C and horseradish seems to help.
Good luck over the next few months, it's lawn mowing season in full swing!
hope the next is full synthetic 10w-40
I am wondering can people nowadays buy just plain oil ? like NON synthetic oil ? I want some of that stuff probably to get some sludge build up in the engine to seal up leaks of a old 2001 car.
Synthetic oil 5w 40 just leaks too much, that car's manual says to use 15w 40, i used 5w 40 , because most people say going down on W number is generally okay. But i think it may be the reason behind leaks
@USER DC
The oil advertised here is a Semi-Synthetic oil , it is a good brand but i would only be using this type of oil on high mileage cars to save a few $ , especially if there are oil leaks / oil consumption issues.
For a 2001 car using 5w-40 and leaking a lot of oil , you already have big problems and i am already assuming years of neglect or infrequent oil changes or the mechanics who looked after your car kept filling your car up with straight mineral oil. i got a 2008 V6 with 170,000ks on the clock and running 5w-30 Full Synthetic and doesn't even consume a single drop between 10,000km changes and not a single leak so far and it gets driven hard.
Dropping to a 30 grade Semi-Synth won't help your cause but switching to a 10w-40 Semi-Synthetic instead might (i.e Castrol Magnatec) but the reality is i would be fixing the source of the leak as you would be potentially creating a huge risk for yourself and your occupants in the event of an oil starvation incident where it might leave you stranded on the road ready to be collected by the cars and trucks traveling behind you , let alone another other road users such as motorcyclists who are often victim to slippery substances on the road caused by cars such as yours.
If money is an issue given your circumstance and a repair is unfeasible in the short term , as a complete "band-aid" only suggestion and not a permanent fix , depending on how much oil you are leaking i would suggest an oil stop leak product such as this. i would let it run in for about 500km and then see if your oil leaks have been rectified , then i would make financial plans to get it fixed as soon as possible or part ways with the car if you have any thought for the well being of yourself and others.
If you want a THICKER oil to reduce oil leaks of burning, go UP on the #s not down.
Anything 10W40 or 15W40 can move to 20W50 in old tech engines.
Just about most 20W50 would not be synthetic base afaik, they’re marketed as “Premium Mineral” & “Classic” Enthusiast lubes by the bigbrandboys these days eg Nulon, Valvoline XLD Premium etc
There’s also tons of aftermarket oil additives if you’ve only just changed oil & don’t care to change again too soon. Just add a bottle into existing oil (& every subsequent oil change) Eg Stop Leak by STP, Wynns, Rislone, LiquiMoly, Nulon, Penrite etc. They supposedly work by swelling worn seals to buy you some time.
Yea the car's owner's manual says to use 15w 40 or 15w 50, i think I'll just keep topping up oil (5w 40) till like 5000 kms (only like a couple month then use 15w 50 or 20w 50)
Had used 10w 40 Castrol magnetic in past that one had leaks too.
Honestly dont know what the problem is, mechanic had fixed valve cover gasket like 1 years go, may be he only charged me for it and didn't fix it. Probably should avoid going back to that mechanic.
Just get semi synthetic or full Dino oil and ensure it has high mileage on it (for the additives)
If you've used engine flushes, your already worn seals may have suffered even more, so might need replacement depending on where the leak is coming from, i.e high mileage oil may not work unless it's a minor problem
Btw, engine flushes are generally not recommended on old engines, you could create more problems than intending to solve
I think high mileage oil use next time will work.
Its a bit costly though but i think it's worth a try.
Would try using Castrol gtx 15w 50 high mileage next time
You sure can. SC Auto even have a specific section on their website for non synthetic oil:
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/oils-fluids-filters/engine…
I'll use this as an engine flush. Just dump half of this down while the sump bolt is open to get all the dirty oil out after a do the proper flush with chemicals
Don't need to use chemicals, literally run the car for 10 mins to warm the oil up before you drain it out, just let it drain out.. then new oil and filter is all you need
I would highly suggest never to use a engine flush, or basically anything flush, coolant flush etc.
Best flushes over in market are the same thing that it takes, aka use oil as a flush (already you are doing it, so no need of flushes)
Flushes only damage engines by dislodging particles that can get trapped in tiny places like oil pickup etc (clog it)
If you're going to waste oil, better to drain the oil, add the cheap stuff, run for 30 mins, then drain again, add good oil.
Change the oil and oil filter regularly then no need to flush.
Can even change at 5km
That is what I do.
Thank you to all the armchair experts. I've been doing it this was for 29 years and only a few times I stuffed the oil pick-ups or the engine
The only armchair expert here is you mate.
5km is a bit excessive, you'll go broke. Pretty quickly and have to change the oil on your way to and from work, for example.
5,000km might be feasible though.
Apologies, was meaning 5,000km
Everyone knows he means 5K = 5000
@Jjj888: Yes kilo means 1000, so 5k = 5000 metres in this instance or 5km, so you are correct.
I would still advise against oil changes every 5km, 5,000km would be ok though.
Can this be used for 2S lawn mower ?
Purchased. Would this go well with a 2013 hybrid Camry 140k KMs?