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WD 14TB Elements Desktop WDBWLG0140HBK-EESN $384.33 + Delivery ($0 with Prime) @ Amazon UK via AU

660

14tb WD drive for $384.

Not the cheapest it's been, but certainly the cheapest it has been in a long while

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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Comments

  • +6

    $27 / TB. Not amazing, but pretty good. Pretty pretty, pretty good.

    • +2

      Yeah given the prices of the past 6 months this is the best i have seen it. Mind you i bought the exact same one from the exact same listing on amazon about 12 months ago for under $300. But hey, we all know why prices are high as of late.

      • +2

        The list of reasons why is depressingly large.

        Including bit not limited to: Wholesaler issues in China, distribution issues and cost increases, chia mining, data warehouse expansions for most online companies.

        We are lucky they haven't gone up more to be honest.

        • +1

          ROI of chia mining is no longer attractive (much worse than Eth even adjusting the Eth PoS next year). & as a so-called "green" crypto, the $return per watt is also worse than Eth

      • You're forgetting infLAtiOn…

        35% increase in M2 since rona.

    • +1

      $27/tb, not great, not terrible.

    • +2

      New season of curb airs today!

      • +2

        Finally someone got it ;-)

  • Hey. Thinking of buying this to shuck. Does anyone know what drive is inside. Also what is the warranty process on these like considering it is Amazon UK? Thanks in advance.

    • +4

      i bought a bunch of these about a year ago to shuck (back then i was able to get them for under $300 each).

      They have white label WDC WD140EDFZ

      Look up that model number to get exact specs.

      Keep in mind though, that was from the batch i bought over 12 months ago, WD is completely within their right to supply you a different hdd inside so long as it meets the requirement of it being 14tb

      • Are you sure you paid <300 for 14TB? Lowest I saw was just under 300 for 12TB from Amazon UK around Oct last year. FWIW the 12TB drives where white-labelled, helium filled WD Reds.

        • +3

          just double checked my amazon order.
          Purchased on 13th october 2020.

          $898.23 for 3 of these 14tb's (after tax and everything)
          898.23/3 = $299.41

          JUST under $300 :-)

          • @snuke: aha thats probably the exact link that caused me to make my purchase.

            • @whitepuma: I wish I brought more then, just got another for $400 about 6 weeks ago because I needed it.
              Well, still haven't shucked and installed it, so it can't have been that urgent I guess……

              • @snuke: yeah i'm with you….i'm down to the final 10% capacity from the 3 i bought last year….so i bought 1 today @384….hopefully that will hold me off for some better deals closer to xmas.

                • @whitepuma: I changed from a 1080P tv to a 4K one, and want to see stuff in all the possible glory, these 70GB Linux ISO sure do eat up a lot of space quickly.
                  Contemplating on buying another now and just be done with it for quite a while.

                  • +1

                    @snuke: yeah i only go 4k for really high end movies that i would watch over and over again.

                    Everything else i go 1080p/720p.

                    Yes that's right, sometimes i still go 720p….i dunno, i just feel like some shows/movies don't need to be 1080p+ i.e. when watching the big bang theory i don't think the watching experience is hindered as much when switching between those two qualities compared to watching something like Avatar.

                    • @whitepuma: Stuff I keep, I want in all it's glory, stuff I delete, 1080P will be fine, maybe, and yeah, 720P for something like Family Guy is cool too.

      • Thank you!

    • +2

      Quick Google search would answer your question re: shucking.

      https://amp.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/khs7i8/lets_ha...

      • +2

        CMR is common on the 'biggest' drives, they dont pump out enough yet to massively cost cut. (Thank you!)

        But helium is an unexpected bonus, thats for sure.

    • +1

      Sorry, not directed at you OP. But thought this was a good spot to put it.

      Just incase anyones confused about what shucking is. It's just where you buy an external HDD and break open the case to use it internally (within a desktop tower for example) as it can be cheaper than buying the internal drive by itself.

    • You have to cover the power pin or use a old molex power to use these unless you putting into a Nas unit

  • Does anyone know what the difference is between this and other one posted before? One shows EESN at the end of model number one shows NESN

  • it says from amazon uk? so does that mean UK plugs?

    • +2

      correct, it ships with UK plugs….however i heard from others if you submit a request with WD to have the australian plugs sent to you they might do it…i did this about 12 months ago and they sent me the AU plugs….but i don't think i'm going to request for AU plugs anymore because i don't like making e-waste, especially when i'm going to be shucking them.

      • I wouldn't throw the uk plug in the bin I would keep them for when I travel.

  • +1

    Can this drive be used as a cloud storage to accessed from anywhere and sync the photos from Phone ?

    • +2

      Not by itself…It's not a NAS

      To do that you will need to connect it to a computer of some sort and have some software setup to get that running.

    • +1

      Yep, install OneDrive/Dropbox/OtherCloudClient onto the iPhone and enable camera backup.

      Plug this drive into a computer, install OneDrive/Dropbox/OtherCloudClient and sign in with the same account. Choose this drive as the destination for the folder. Disable "save space and only download files as you use them" so that all files are downloaded to the drive.

      Voila - you now have three copies of your photos. One on the phone, one on this drive, and one in the cloud.

      Note that you'll need to pay for additional cloud space once you go over the free space.

      • +1

        The way i interpreted Lilydale's comment i don't think this is what they are asking. I think they are asking if this itself can be used as a cloud storage, not as a separate backup of your cloud storage…

        • Thanks @Whitepuma and @Nom for Reply.

          I was exactly asking was @Whitepuma has said i.e. to used as Cloud storage

          • @Lilydale: yeah that's fair enough. If you want 1 that can be used as an all in one cloud storage solution i don't think this is the product for you. as this will need to be connected to a computer with some assistance of software to become a cloud.

            What it sounds like you are looking for is a NAS with self-hosted cloud software built into it. some options you have are:

            a. For easy DIY self hosted clouds look up something like the Synology or Qnap range of products.

            b. For a more advanced solution, you could try running nextcloud, owncloud,or tonido solution on a self hosted machine. This self hosted machine can be something as small as a raspberry pi, to an old computer, all the way up to a purpose built machine.

            If you are not sure where to get started on option b, and aren't willing to put in the time to researching and learning how these systems work, then i would highly advise against option B.
            If both options A & B sound too difficult then i don't think self hosting clouds is the best solution for you, you may be better off going for a paid service like google drive, dropbox, onedrive, etc….

  • can you rip the drive out and put it in a NAS or a desktop pc?

    • Yes they are shuckable. You might need to tape up one of the power pins though.

    • yes, this is what i have done.

      Depending on your setup you will need to do the 3.3v pin trick
      Not difficult, just requires some tape
      see the below video
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CH0KULXheYs

      • Sooo I would probably have to do this if I was putting the drive into a synology diskstation ds220j for example?

        • +3

          like…i'm not sure what extra information you need. I have pretty much said exactly what you need to do and supplied a youtube tutorial to walk you through it.

    • -1

      Be wary………

      WD have lost their flawless rep as good shuckables. They are now selling WD Red label disks with SMR tech (very bad for NAS)
      The disks inside the shuckers, are generally white label (re-badged red)

      There really is a risk of getting an SMR drive now with WD and it's hard to know for sure.

      • +1

        Source?

        • Guy below corrected me- they did do this but the disks were smaller. This is good news.

      • +5

        WD doesn't do SMR bigger than 8TB at the moment, so nothing to be wary about.
        Edit, actually the biggest SMR WD does is 6tb. The biggest Seagate does is 8TB.

        If you're buying a drive bigger than that you don't need to worry.

        • This I didn't know - but based on the legal document, I suspect you could be right. Seems odd, you'd think they'd apply it to any disk you can get, to save money.

          Good stuff.

  • -2

    Only $84 higher than the previous lows…

    • +5

      there's always one of these guys….

      Let me know when you get a time machine to take us back to October 13th 2020.

      • HODL gang is branching out from spamming gpu posts wiith their inane drivel

        • +1

          hamwhisperer posts BS comments on literally every post HDD related on OB unless it is the deadset cheapest price it's ever been….it's embarrassing really. He sounds like a boomer that whinges that the price of a loaf of bread use to be 10c.

          • -7

            @whitepuma: Sounds like you don't know how to budget your storage. I got mine 3 years ago. $250 AUD each for 8TB disks and I still won't need more storage for at least 12 if not 24 months.

            If you're desperate for disks because you can't predict the future, not my issue, it's yours.

            Buy overpriced disks at your peril, it's OzBargain. Chia has @#$% the bed, disks are gonna drop hard soon.

            QQ

            • @hamwhisperer: don't know how to budget storage? mate….3 years ago you wouldn't have predicted there were going to be pandemic prices like what we are seeing now, this isn't just a matter of planning for the future, this is a matter of unpredictable obstacles having been thrown our way.
              Your argument of it use to be cheaper is like saying dogecoin use to be in the $0.000#'s, i'm not going to buy it until it gets back to that.

              unpredictable things happen, you can either sit there and dwell on the past or work with what you got available to you at the current point in time.

        • -2

          OzBARGAIN. Not "Oz,kindaok I guess"

          • +3

            @hamwhisperer: yeah….and bargain is relevant to the current point in time. not all of history…

            i.e. if somebody needs to buy a 14tb hdd today, and they want a bargain today, the link shown is the best bargain they can get today….
            But if i need one today i'm not going to be sitting here crying that prices use to be cheaper last year.

      • Happy to wait.

  • +5

    I've shucked 3 of these for my media server, they've been doing a high number of reads & writes over the past year and continue to operate with no errors & good temps

    • Same

  • +1

    Last time I bought an item from UK, it took over 4 weeks to deliver (Amazon standard free shipping).

    Consider express shipping if you need it urgently.

  • I got a few of these, nice and quite unlike the Exos X16s

  • +1

    Also notice the 12TB is $322 which seems a decent price too.

  • +1

    The 12TB version seems to have the better $/TB value though, just.

    16TB - $31.27
    14TB - $27.45
    12TB - $26.92
    8TB - $32.39
    6TB - $35.07
    4TB - $41.06

    A note that many reviewers are saying it doesn't come with an AU plug and you will need an adapter.

    • yeah i saw this, the 12tb is better value….but for an extra 2tb in the same single hdd slot, i think the 14tb is worth the extra ~50c per tb

      I bought one to just cross me over the line until they have a bigger price drop.

      Should also say, with the UK plugs….when i bought my 14tb's last year i had this same problem, i reached out to WD directly and they sent me a bunch of AU plugs.

  • Hi folks,
    Which size drives need the 3.3V pin mod?

    • i don't think the need for a 3.3v pin mod has anything to do with the size. Its got to do with both the model of hdd, and the way it's connected to a PC.

      Regardless, i wouldn't worry about the need to do a 3.3v mod, i would recommend connect the drive to your PC via sata, if it recognizes the drive you have no need for the 3.3v mod…..if it doesn't recognise the drive then you need to do the 3.3v mod.

      The mod requires 1cm of sticky tape, scissors, and up to 2 minutes of your time (assuming you already have the drive removed from the enclosure). Plenty of youtube tutorials on it, look it up if your not comfortable.

    • I know why and how it is done for use out of its casing. I only wanted to know which capacity drives have this 3.3V pin or they ALL have them now.

      • There's no way to know for certain, because there's no guarantee of exactly which drive you'll get in the case…

        It's not an issue anyway if you're using an older PSU that only has 12v and 5v on it's SATA power, and it's also not an issue if you're using a new PSU that knows about the SATA 3.3 specification.

      • i know what your asking, but your question doesn't have any definite answer. As mentioned by Nom. There is no guarantee to which drive you will get.

        If you would like a guaranteed and exact specification from your drive, i would recommend NOT buying external hdd's, and instead buy internal drives that are very direct about what you're going to get.

      • Don't fret about the 3.3

        Message me if you need a hand. I used masking tape. Dead easy. Worked first time on all 7 drives I got and hasn't stuffed up after 3 years.

        One recommendation test drives BEFORE shucking them.

        • +1

          One recommendation test drives BEFORE shucking them.

          1000% this.

          Do a full check (which can take 36 hours for a big drive) using a diagnostic tool before you do anything else !

          • @Nom: Hi Nom,

            I am not shucking my newly bought 14TB Drive.
            What diagnostic tool should I use to test the HDD, before I start copying information across to the drive.

            Thanks

            • +1

              @Broody: You want to download h2testw and run it against the whole disk.
              It will take a very very long time.

              When complete, run a SMART, FULL test - it will also run, a very very long time.

              If it passes both these tests, very likely, safe to shuck.

              • @hamwhisperer: Thanks hamwhisperer,

                I will download h2testw and do the recommended tests.

                Do I still need to do these tests if I am Not shucking.

                • +1

                  @Broody: I would do them regardless, so you know your drive is ok

                  You could buy a 12 TB drive and only use 4TB for 3 years.

                  When you finally get a new hobby recording 4k GoPro and go to put it on the last 8TB realise 'the back half' of the drive is stuffed.

                  Always test, every sector, you'll feel more comfortable.

                  Costs you 2 or even 3 days (!!) but it's worth it. I tested 7x8TB disks 3 years ago, all are still flawless and now they're 90% full

                  • @hamwhisperer: Thanks for the very helpful info.

                    That is what I was thinking, test to make sure everything is fine.

                    Do I run the SMART, Full Test using h2testw also.

                    • @Broody: They're 2 similar tests.

                      H2TestW run it on the drive once you've first got it. In Windows.
                      Recommend leaving PC on for 2 or 3 days to let it it run, in a USB3 port.

                      Once finished, THEN run SMART full.

                      DON'T KNOCK THE DRIVE OVER when running - some people do that, don't do it. Put it somewhere safe where it'll be left alone.

                      • @hamwhisperer: Sorry hamwhisperer,

                        My copy of h2testw, does not have an option to Run a SMART Full test.

                        Do I use that program to run the SMART Full test.

                        Thanks again.

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