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WD 20TB Elements Desktop External Hard Drive $477 Delivered @ Amazon UK via AU

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The deal is back again, slightly more than previous deals.

About this item

  • The WD Elements desktop hard disk drive with USB 3.0 offers reliable, high capacity, add-on storage, fast data transfer rates, and universal connectivity with USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 devices. The drive’s features up to 20TB capacity
  • IMPROVE PC PERFORMANCE When your internal drive is almost full, your PC slows down. Don’t delete files – free up space on your internal drive by transferring files to your WD Elements HDD desktop storage and get your computer moving again
  • STORE MORE OF WHAT's IMPORTANT. With capacities up to 20TB, the WD Elements desktop hard disk drive helps you store more photos, videos, music, and files
  • FAST TRANSFER RATES. When connected to a USB 3.0 port, the WD Elements desktop hard disk drive delivers fast data transfer rates
  • PLUG-AND-PLAY SIMPLICITY. The WD Elements Desktop Hard Drive works right out-of-the-box with Windows 10+ PCs – just plug into the USB port to instantly add storage..USB 3.0 AND USB 2.0 -COMPATABILIY With this single drive, you get compatibility with the latest USB 3.0 devices and backwards-compatibility with USB 2.0 devices as well..WD QUALITY INSIDE AND OUT. We build the drive to our demanding requirements for durability, shock tolerance, and long-term reliability.
Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.
This is part of Boxing Day Sales for 2022

Related Stores

Amazon AU
Amazon AU
Amazon UK Store
Amazon UK Store

closed Comments

  • +9


      • +3

        I was, but my order got cancelled :(

      • -2

        Lucky what? They didn't ship.

        • +1

          Mine did

        • -2

          You are NOT lucky enough then.

  • -3

    Real capacity 18626.4515 GB

      • +20

        It's not 20TiB, it's 20TB and the difference between the two is where the confusion comes from.

        If you're going to make a pedantic correction you should try to be correct when you do so.

        • +3

          Clarity for people following the thread
          20 terabytes ~ 18626 gibibytes which are shown in Windows as GB which would benefit from disambiguation as GiB…

          -Which would likely show up in Windows as 18.2 TB

          20 terabytes = 18.2 Windows TB
          There's an infinite storage space meme here somewhere

          • +3

            @UsernameChecksIn: It is about using 1024 or 1000 as unit…
            The difference came from every k units…
            kb mb gb tb….

            As there are 4 (rounded up units):
            It is (1000/1024)^4
            and it is 20TB, so times it with 20.
            You will get 18.2 TB as result.

        • -2

          pedantic correction


          Looks like I struck a nerve.

      • In binary, they are right. The data unit has always referred to a specific capacity that isn't base 10, and its not the bastardised marketing units/scale you're referring to which is literally, technically, wrong.

  • Just found my newly opened 18TB from August is DOA…..might have to buy this to tide me over til it gets replaced 😩

    • Which one will come first. This from uk or replacement

      • Good question. I need to submit for the RMA this week. Might be time to setup my second NAS now.

    • Hopefully you mean opened from box and not opened as in shucked.

      • Not shucked. Just opened up the box and it's not recognized as a disk at all on 3 separate machines….. 😩

        • Better now than after shucking!

  • +1

    Are these worth it and they have a low failure rate ? The highest space WD drive I've purchased is 8TB and that was in 2020. Over this festive period I have lost my marbles going through multiple powered Elements drives as well as the standard USB powered hdd's (trying to find a particular movie I haven't watched in ages). To the point where my end goal will be to combine multiple older WD Elements hdd's (going back to 2005-2006 oh the days of 250gb lol) on to one super WD TB drive. I'd still keep many of the older drives as a "retired" back up.

    • +6

      I'd be getting rid of those old drives ASAP and get 2 new ones. One for backup.

      • That's my plan, I think I've got 50tb all up (17 years of collecting hdd's!). I'd need to sort through them all and then have 3-410+tb's as the final storage (eg: 2 drives movies, 2 drives music/general data collection).

        • +5

          There is so much new content added everyday online. Be it netflix, disney+, binge, porn, games etc. How do you even get time to get back to old content? I barely get time to catch up with the new ones.

          • +1

            @John Doh: Very good question, in truth I don't go back to old content very often. I guess it's just nice to have look back on ? Or in my case I spent an hour yesterday going through multiple hdds trying to find a particular movie I wanted to watch.

            I'm not a streamer, I watch my movies and tv series' through my own backed up content (been doing this since 2005). Even though I don't go to the dvd versions these days (have long since upgraded to bluray or the 4k release) I don't wish to delete them out of existence.

            But its true when you think about it, I don't have all the time in the world to watch everything as often as I used to. I recently marathoned a complete series of a tv show which ended up taking me 2 months to do. Sacrificed the usual time I'd spend on video games to get it done faster. I used to enjoy watching certain movies back to back on my down time during weekends (eg: all 4 lethal weapons on a Sunday), can't do that anymore!

            • @hawktalk: Funny when I was kids age I would watch and rewatch the same movie 2 to 3 times a day and they were on VHS!

              • +1

                @love2buy: There was no choice back then, The same movies felt nicer to watch. Today each episode of a good series are like a damn movie, and there are so many of them :) Am yet to watch the latest jurassic park/many recent movies because of this.

            • @hawktalk: I was in the same boat before i moved here 3 years back. I used to write everything I had to DVDs. I had over 200 DVDs in various albums all perfectly sorted. Then when moving here, i had to make up my mind. I cant get all those DVDs with me. I had to write them to HDD and get them here.

              I gave it a thought. Will i ever get time to use this content if I move to Aus? 80% of my mind was like NO. And most of those content were pirated anyway. Everything legal that I had owned were on Steam anyway. So I decided I will keep it light and not store anymore once I moved here. Moving here was a fresh start and was more easier to give up as my hands were already empty to begin with - that really helped me break the cycle. I dont have any pirated content anymore and I barely torrent nowadays. And I am angry I am not getting enough time to play 80% of the latest AAA games I have hoarded on Steam and EPIC :D

              • @John Doh: Other downloads and things are fine (and generally forgettable). But for me, I have quite the physical media collection (dvds, blurays, 4ks, music cds) that get backed up once I've taken them home after purchasing them. I don't buy as many things as I used to (in the 2000's I was often buying 5-10 dvds a week. These days I'm lucky to buy 1-2 movies every couple of months). I'm unwilling to part with them, I just don't buy as many as I used to as my collection is basically made up of everything from child to adulthood that I've watched and enjoyed. There's seldom anything that takes my fancy these days (my main purchases this year were The Batman… which I didn't actually like that much and Top Gun Maverick).

                How I've got physical media (and I guess the external hdd's as well) is akin to someone hoarding newspapers all those years ago :P. When I get the larger WD tb hdd's, I'll at least be able to downsize the amount of hdd's I have.

                • +1

                  @hawktalk: My hoard's been severely underutilised for years, but I keep in mind that one day the kids move on and/or retirement comes, and suddenly you've got heaps of time on your hands again.

                  Mine actually started all the way back with VHS tapes, shifted to optical, then to HDDs, although its size kept expanding as new stuff in new storage-hungry formats has been added. Still longing for the day when I can fit it all on a single drive and only require one drive per backup.

                  • @Jabba the Hutt: Habits also change, I had a set list of movies that were always watched 2-3-5+ times a year (Dark Knight Trilogy, Predator, BTTF Trilogy, Bourne "Trilogy" etc etc), 2022 was radically different in that I've only watched the majority of my favourite films once this year. I'd love just one single solitary drive (and another as a back up). I can only dream of this scenario lol.

                • @hawktalk: I totally get it. All my collection were from college days as well. If I hadnt moved to Aus, my collection would have probably grown as well ;)

      • Redundancy failure at a single point there

    • +1

      I bought 1x 16TB, 2x 18TB and 2x 20TB from Amazon UK and they turned up fine. Always test them as soon as you receive them just in case so that you can claim warranty.

  • Can this be plugged into nvidia shield pro usb with the full storage space supported?

  • -2

    20tb!! The tears when all those special pictures and videos are lost..

    • +2

      That's why you back up.

      • +2

        and backup the backup

        • +4

          this disk is the backup

          • @FoxJump: So when the disk die you won't lose any data then. Why the tears?

            • -2

              @dotJaz: oh i have no tears. my laptop once died in a flooded car. i laughed like a mad person when i took it out of the car with water streaming out of the usb ports.

              a) a month earlier i had rehearsed my "lets pretend my laptop dies, how good is my backup?"

              b) i don't delete holiday photos from the camera memory card (once transferred to the computer) unless i actually need the space

              c) i had my next laptop already picked to buy and was only looking for an excuse to do so

              d) i know of many people who would have been devastated at losing all their (unbacked) up data

              so all up, i only "lost" 1 file - which i managed to recover by plugging the ssd into an enclosure.

              also .. a laptop and a car

              • @FoxJump:

                recover by plugging the ssd into an enclosure.

                … wait—fortunately, you had the data retrievable from the laptop SSD the whole time

                no data backup needed! YOLO

                need a parallel redundancy and additional backup for the car ._. (mount an all-terrain hovercraft kit to the roof that automatically inflates + detaches?)

              • @FoxJump: Talk about cool story bro

      • Its easier to backup 4tb drives for example than buy 2 20tb drives and hope both of them work out as you expect. What I mean is the less lost by some freak circumstances the better.

        • No.

          This is completely wrong.

          It doesn't matter what freak circumstances attack your data, because you just restore a backup.

          That's it. It doesn't matter how many drives you have, or how big they are.

          And it definately doesn't matter if your backup drive is broken, because you have more than one backup.

  • +2

    Shuckable? What drives are in these?

    • +5

      Yep, but:
      1. you need to cover pin three on the sata power connector for these to work
      2. the shucked drives only have mounting holes on the two outside points, they don't have the inside screw holes. This was a major pain for me as my server needed the inside ones to mount

      WD200EDGZ inside mine, bought a few months back on last sale

      • +1

        For those shucking, it's much easier to remove the female connector for pin three, rather than covering the pin.

        I remove the metal connector for pin 3 from the plastic, heat-shrink it, fold it back and tape it to its lead.

  • +1

    Good price. I bought x4 18TB for $1500 2 years ago.

  • +12

    Warning for people shucking,

    1. you need to cover pin three on the sata power connector for these to work
    2. the shucked drives only have mounting holes on the two outside points, they don't have the inside screw holes. This was a major pain for me as my server needed the inside ones to mount

    Otherwise its a good drive. Bit loud though

    • +4

      Yeah I think I came across that 2nd problem recently after I shucked drives where the enclosure was failing.

      Noticed I couldn't mount them in my recent Fractal case with the normal HD mounts. Never come across that in over 20 years of PC building.

      • +2

        me either, was really suprised. I had to drill holes into my case mounting rails to get it to work, but it isn't ideal and it sticks out more then i like, I won't be buying again becuase of that

        • +1

          I ended up wedging them temporarily, can't recall what with atm lol.

          Was thinking to myself when it happened, surely I'm not missing something REALLY obvious.

          Didn't have that problem with my DS918 years ago. But unsure where/how I sourced those drives now.

        • +1

          instructions unclear - have now drilled sand-draining holes into HDD platters

    • +2

      this is important, I sold an 18tb a few months ago.. guy shucked it and plugged it into his pc and told me i sold him a dud when it connected fine as an external source, I googled this for the lazy w4nker and found this after research. Needless to say he didnt bother me again. You can also get older SATA ketchup and mustard colored connectors which dont comes with the pin which also do the job.

    • +1

      When you say inside do you mean the ones on the underside of the drive?

  • does it come with an aussie power adaptor/cable?

    • No mate. People also reported that in the feedback on amazon

    • +8

      From memory, you can email the Australian WD Support and get them to send you one.

      • +3

        [edit: fixed a few typos, errors and cleaned up the explanation on a few paragraphs which were a bit messy]

        Yes you can ask WD for an AU power pack or plug, I’ve done it several times. You obviously have to have a WD Account first, register the drive case serial number and you might see a comment associated with the drive like “out of region” or similar.

        Open a support case on the drive using the external case serial number, not the drive’s serial number if you have already shucked!

        Explain in the case notes that you bought the drive from Amazon AU and it was shipped from the UK and arrived with a UK plug only and you cannot plug it in. Warning it could take 4-6 weeks for the AU parts to arrive. Always keep travel adaptors handy! Sorry if this sounds like I’m telling people how to suck eggs. This is just in more detail for those who haven’t done it before and maybe need some extra advice.

        You’ll probably need to print to PDF a copy of your Amazon invoice showing the purchase of the drive - that’s usually required at the registration web page but if they ask for additional documentation, I usually upload the same pdf file. Just follow whatever instructions they give and supply with appropriate info and the web page is fairly logical to follow.

        If the drive is registered before you open the support case to ask for AU plug pack and/or cable, everything will go much smoother. Make sure your WD account has a shipping address etc

        Proof of purchase will always be asked for by Seagate or WD when registering. They accept multiple methods so if you can only give them a JPEG, that should suffice.

        If you really want to blur out other items on your order, WD don’t seem to care, as long as they can see the part number drive description and your purchase date becomes the new warranty start date. This can actually work out slightly worse as both WD and Seagate add 3 or 6 months additional warranty so if you check your warranty expiry first, it might be longer as they expect/plan for drives to take a few months from manufacture to reach a reseller and then finally be purchased by an end user.

        Also note that the three year warranty we enjoy in AU on external drives does not apply to imported drives, they generally apply the warranty from the country of export.

        It pays to have and keep printed copies as well as pdf versions of everything you do in case you need to claim warranty.

        WD are now using the same logistics facility in Sydney as Seagate (or it was last time I checked) it’s part of DHL iirc, to handle their warranty returns should your drive fail prematurely. However because these drives are from UK you are better off talking to Amazon for warranty returns, as you only have to send the drive to Amazon Sydney.

        Dealing direct with WD for warranty may mean if you get a support agent who doesn’t know, they may ask you to return to WD logistics facility either in the UK or somewhere in Europe.

        A few years ago WD drives had to be shipped to Vietnam which was extremely expensive as they are on AusPost’s more expensive zone list.

        Right this second I am hoping they are still using the DHL logistics facility in Sydney and for Australian purchased stock from an AU distributor, under ACL it’s your choice to return to the retailer or the manufacturer. I don’t see a lot of stores with 20TB HDDs in stock but I do believe they can order them from WD distributors.

        However this is all about the amazing price we can get drives from Amazon!

        Be aware if you’ve never purchased drive shipped from the US or UK before, the drive may turn up in a box without any internal packaging, slipping around loose. The drive is secured inside it’s own box but I really would prefer if Amazon UK and US but in sone of that brown paper that I often see to at least stop the drive box from moving around in transit.

        Finally, test, test, test - WD has a Drive Utilities tool, but last time I checked the newer one didn’t work on the larger capacity drives. I had to go back to their old drive check tool which still works. That may have changed as there have been a few updates on the Windows tray tool and the WD Drive Utilities under the apps tab.

        Run everything, SMART test, quick test and extended test, screen cap all of that with the external case serial number present somewhere in the screen caps. Even if means editing the picture and adding a text box.

        Make sure there is a date stamp showing as well.

        I’ve had to warranty about 15 drives over the past Ten Years mostly 3TB and 4TB but things got bad when WD and Seagate changed all under 6TB drives to SMR. I had three of a new model using SMR (nothing on the packaging) all fail within 3 months of purchase. Since they were all from Officeworks and under 12 months old, As long as you have the register or digital tax invoice it takes a bit of time and effort but they usually get their resident tech guy to check stuff out really carefully to the point of plugging into a Windows box to see what happens. Usually they ask do you want a refund or replacement. Officeworks stores can vary wildly in the way they deal with warranty issues. It should be uniform at every store. I have not experienced that. Anyway, ba k to Amazon….

        I’m just giving extra info here based on my experience. Amazon can take a lot longer to get you a replacement drive, as they have process your return first.

        Fingers crossed, I haven’t had anything over 10TB fail yet and I have a mixture of 10/12/16/18TB some WD My Book which IMHO is a much better drive or doesn’t have artificial limitations put on it through firmware, and runs at 7200RPM, and sone of these Elements drives which are slower, but they still do the job and whether you are buying to put in a NAS or keeping it as an external I hope the quality of all the WD high capacity drives are much the same and you should enjoy a full life, but as I said test first which means if you need a travel adapter, buy one and test it silly before shucking.

        All just my advice and take or leave it. Some might think I’m being overly cautious, but what’s an extra 12-24 hours for an extended surface test - you can go further if you are really paranoid but I’ll leave it here.

        Good luck to everyone who still has spare cash after or is during the Silly Season. I’d love another two at least but I couldn’t even afford one with post Christmas bills like Car Rego in Jan. cheers.

    • +3

      Just contact WD via their website and they send you one pretty quickly.

      I've gone through the process twice already, they make it fairly easy.

  • +1

    the deal ive been waiting for! i'm buying x2 going to cost $971.42.. is there any deals with cashrewards / zip pay ?

    • cash rewards won't give the rebate, tried last time. electronics are excluded

    • Amazon shop back gift card @ 2% pretty meh =/.

      • So nothing with all that money spent but at least massive savings from normal price ?
        It's still well worth it.. i was just asking.. usually i can get afterpay membership benefits,
        Does zip-pay have that too ? like from bronze, silver, gold, etc (i'm not a member) ?

      • edit.. i did it! with shopback amazon that's linked to zippay-westpac

  • That's a lot of Linux distributions.

  • is it true that these drives are throttled by firmware ?

    some complain it's throttled on reddit

    • +1

      Yes I believe they're capped to 200mb/sec in sequential compared to the Seagates getting around 260mb/sec. IIRC they did have slightly higher IOPS though.

  • What kind of electrical tape do you use for the SATA pin connector when shucking? I want to make sure using electrical tape is okay.

    • +1

      You're better spend a couple of dollar for polyimide tape.

      • Where do you get polyimide tape from? Supermarkets? Jaycar or elsewhere?

        • +1
    • Search for Kapton Tape

      You can get it from JayCar but it's expensive as usual - eBay and Amazon both have cheap versions

  • is it easy to open up and to install internally in pc?

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