How to Fix Annoying Bright LED Lights?

Hello

TL : DR - I need to 'tone down'; or completely block out the light from some super bright LEDS semi-permanently.

I have some items I use with my PC with super insanely bright LEDs which drive me nuts; and I'm looking for the best solutions to fix this problem in a way that won't cause any marking/damage (eg sticky tape etc) and/or over heating?

I would prefer solutions to be semi-permanent - so they can easily be undone.

Let me be clear - the photos simply do not give you the real sense of just how crazy bright they are - it's nuts how much they stand out - especially the blue on the Monitors.

These are three main options for solutions - as far as I can see:

Partial coverage of LEDS/Light
Total coverage of LEDS/Light
Ideal solution would give me the flexibility to do both when I feel like it?
As indicated above - Partial coverage might be useful - to still be able to see that these items are turned on - to remind me to turn them off when I'm done with the PC…. but maybe not - not sure?

That's why it might be a good option to be able to 'tone down' the brightness' but still see it?

Obviously I'd prefer everything to be black and matte - to be dark as possible so as not to be distracting.

In my case - I have Studio Monitors (Presonus Eris-E8's); which sit either side of my Monitor/Screen.
This makes the crazy bright LEDs incredibly visible - all the damn time - no matter what you are doing.

Here are some photos as examples…

If I'm just browsing online (reading) or using documents etc - it is super annoying, and distracting even then.
But of course - if I'm watching Youtube or gaming - it's soo much worse/more distracting (especially with visually dark content).

I also have a Roland Octa Capture audio interface which sits to the left and below the left Studio Monitor.
You would think this wouldn't be any where near as distracting - but you'd be wrong.

It's still very much in my field of vision no matter how I sit.
Worse - that also has different coloured buttons (some red/blue) and the added big LED White screen too.

I need something that won't mark/damage either the Monitors or the Audio Interface.
Not just cause I hate doing anything like that - but also - maybe one day I might want to sell them and upgrade (though unlikely).

The one other concern I have is with the Audio Interface…

I need a solution that won't cause it to overheat as it is metal on top and probably should stay pretty clear/not covered?
It's always warm-slightly warm - but I don't think it gets super hot?
But trying to err on the side of caution.

I've been lazy of late and have been using a sheet of printer paper folded in half to hang over the LED's on the front - but that does cover that metal top which isn't ideal; and it's too visible in itself (should be black not white).

So I need better solutions…. ideas?

Thanks for your help

Comments

  • +1

    masking tape ?

    • +7

      It's ok if you change it every week. If not, that stuff is terrible. Someone used it on the skirting boards of the house I rent while they painted the walls. They didn't bother to remove it. I moved in and found it's now FUSED to the skirting boards UNTIL THE UNIVERSE ENDS. I'm dead serious… I've tried everything. It's gone rock hard so refuses to peel off, the top surface is like cement, so nothing like eucalyptus oil can penetrate it. Use your fingernails to try get under it and it slides in and breaks off like bamboo torture under your fingernails. The only thing that would work is something like a window scraper with a razor blade, which would obviously damage the wood. So I just had to leave it. It would be easier to pull the skirting board off, replace, and repaint it.

      • +2

        Yes I made this mistake once - I wanted to do a second coat and didn't have enough paint… it then became that job I didn't get back to until some time later when the tape was STUCK so bad! I didn't realise the short term viability of masking tape

        • Ha! I actually own that one, but nah - unless you've seen it in person… it's just never going to come off without damaging the wood. It's become part of the wood. What's even dumber, they needed to paint the skirting board TOO, but painted the wall, packed up and left leaving the tape on, and didn't paint the skirting board!?

          i might rip the board off myself one day if I stay. Seen it done before… Just a hammer, old screwdriver whacked down the middle enough to lever the awful air-gun nails free that they use… "brad" nails I think they're called!? Then paint it. But I'll wait until I see a similar tint for sale cheap in Bunnings that someone didn't want.

        • Oops, no, I remember now… I did see that one in the cleaning/kitchen brush section of Bunnings but thought, "Damn that's expensive." Then I found this one in the painting section: https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-safety-scraper-set_p5… - basically a bit different shape but uses the same razor blades and a lot cheaper.

      • +1

        Would love to read a fiction story from you. And what a good username u have 👏

        • Who, me? I was going to search for an "i" with its dot before I signed up, but then thought it wouldn't be obvious enough, lol.

      • It's well known that you use a hair dryer to heat up and remove double sided tape without damaging the paint.
        Try that.

        • Hm, maybe.

          • @[Deactivated]: Haven't tried it myself but I think the intense heat softens the adhesive so you can peel it off. Also might be a good idea to rub the remaining stuff on the wall with a wet paper towel straight away as well, to get it off while it's soft.

  • +43
    • +8

      This is the answer. Doesn't leave a residue too. Didn't need to type all that up OP.

      • +5

        They could print their entire post out and cover their whole desk :)

      • +5

        It does if left long enough, but the glue comes off with Isopropyl Alcohol.

      • +5

        It absolutely will leave residue eventually.

        • +4

          Which is easily removable

      • Leave it long enough and it certainly does leave a residue. Anyone who has mucked around under their car dash or fitted a car stereo has experienced it. In fact it's up there with the one of the last options I'd use because the sticky stuff on electrical tape is so bad.

        • or just stick something on it with blu-tac or stop using the computer in the pitch dark….

      • +3

        I also wanted to add that the suggestion of electrical tape not leaving residue is perhaps the funniest thing I have read so far today

        • Hmm maybe there’s different types. The one I’ve used before was dry as a bone even after years of use.

          • @Hybroid: Quite possibly so - but all of the elec tape I've used in the last dozen years or so end up a gooey mess after some time. Perhaps it was the cheap stuff I was using or the location. But they never held long term without leaving / becoming residue.

            I'd still recommend this for OP's application and the residue is not too challenging to remove

      • Even the ones that say they don’t leave residue will do so after a certain period of time.

  • +2

    Turn them towards the wall.

  • +3

    I also recommend using Black Electrical Tape.
    I have a CyberPower 8 Port Surge Protector with 2 LED's which are quite bright at night, put a little electrical tape over the LED's and it cut the light emittance by at least 95%

  • +16

    Blu-Tac.

    • +1

      This works

    • +4

      Every monitor LED gets the blu tac treatment. No exceptions.

      • +1

        I was so confused why the OP and everyone else was calling it a monitor instead of a speaker, until I googled 'Studio Monitor'. English is such a confusing language.

    • Yep, I've been using blu-tac on a USB charger under the bed for years. I've smeared it just thin enough that you can make out whether it's on in the dark but it still blocks the unwanted blue glow under the bed entirely.

    • +2

      Yep, even the Blu-Tac knock—offs like the Yellow one work fine. I've had a piece on a small 2.1 system for the last five years that hasn't moved a single micrometre (yes, I have measured*).

      *No, I have not.

  • -1

    A couple of coats of black nail-polish. Preferably matt. Works a treat.

    • +3

      I would prefer solutions to be semi-permanent - so they can easily be undone.

      Black nail polish is closer to being permanent than "easily undone"

      • -1

        True… I wouldn't use it on something made of anything too delicate.

        On the other hand, on anything solid it's fairly easy to pop nail polish off with a plastic pick, or nail polish remover if the surface material won't blemish.

        • -1

          Nail polish remover/acetone is definitely going to blemish this. A pick might scratch it too

  • +13

    Any reason you don't go back to your question posts like this (and your last few) and engage or comment or thank those that spend time to solve your problems?

    This isn't chatgpt.

    • +6

      They are just flex posts not actual questions.

      • +13

        I would have thought that telling everyone that you struggle with basic search engine use and can’t figure out how to subdue an led is the opposite of a flex?

        • +5

          OP already knows the answer to their question.

          This is the best way to flex about all their equipment. Notice how the specific model of speakers and interface are mentioned unnecessarily.

          • +6

            @Muzeeb: It's not exactly expensive gear…strange flex.
            Also same person that got mad their $300 phone was stale and and not fresh out of China when they bought one.

            • +2

              @SBOB:

              It's not exactly expensive gear…strange flex.

              But it is in the eyes of the OP

            • +7

              @SBOB:

              Also same person that got mad their $300 phone was stale and and not fresh out of China when they bought one.

              I strongly suspect that OP is not nearly as bright as their LED indicator lights are

    • Yeah I noticed a few other forum posts in a span of days from this user. Didn't know they weren't replying though.

  • Smush some blu-tac on them, easy to adjust thickness and let out just the right amount of light or block them completely if you prefer (If the colour is an issue, you can easily draw on the blu-tac with a black texta/marker).
    Or you could buy some black lotctite reusuable putty https://www.amazon.com.au/Loctite-Kintsuglue-Reconstructing-…
    Both options are removeable and heat resistant.

    • +1

      As long as you change it every so often. I've had blu tack go hard before and it's a nightmare to get off some surfaces. It does take a long time to go hard but any heat would make it happen faster.

      • Strange, been using blu-tac for this sort of thing for 30+ years and never had a hardness or removal issue.

  • +6

    I have Studio Monitors (Presonus Eris-E8's)

    Cool story bro, lol

  • +1

    are you one of those cyberhackers? i don't know how you can work in a dimly light room like that. turn on a ceiling light and the other leds won't matter

  • Wear sunglasses. Solves all of them at once.

  • +5

    We had the same issue with "too bright" LEDs on computers, powerboards, the modem and NBN box light up a big area of the lounge room (opposite our bedroom door, so it's quite noticeable), a CO2 sensor in the bedroom with a light that flashes every 30 seconds or so, and a ridiculously bright digital clock on the oven that would light up most of the kitchen and hallway at night. The list goes on.

    Solution was these - Light Dims https://www.amazon.com.au/LightDims-Dimming-Original-Strengt…. Brilliant things - I bought the pack of the 6 different kinds (and they also included a free sheet of amber Light Dims), but you can buy individual packs as well and they come in black, silver and white so you can match with appliances etc if needs be. They are easy to apply, easy to remove (no residue) and come in various strengths from around 50% up to complete blackout. I take some with me whenever I travel so I can block out those bloody annoying bright LEDs on hotel room TVs etc.

    • And that of course should be CO (carbon monoxide), not CO2 (realised too late to go back and edit original comment) :)

    • They're good as long as the adhesive doesn't become a nightmare to remove after several weeks/months.

      • Doesn't seem to be an issue with them at all. The one covering the oven clock has been in place for just over 12 months, and I just peeled it part of the way off to see what happened - it came away easily, zero residue that I could see (this is on a stainless steel surface), and it stuck back into place just as easily, didn't seem to lose any adhesion on the section that was removed.

        • Ok so they're more like the clear screen protectors that come on our phone and microwave screens than stickers. Sounds good.

          • @[Deactivated]: Yes, exactly! They're a very similar consistency to those, very thin and lightweight. I couldn't think of how to best describe them :).

    • +1

      +1 for LightDims — got one of the multipacks and it's sorted my rack of network hardware, as well as the super-bright LEDs inside and outside my PC. Also some charging cables that have a really bright LED at the end of them, for some odd reason.

    • +1

      +1 for these. My bedroom was getting peppered with mini led lights, these were the perfect solution

    • +1

      These are great. Use them everywhere, except where there is a weird shape, then it’s blu-tack

      They don’t leave any mess behind, years after using.

  • Stare directly at the sun for an hour on a clear day.

    The LEDs will appear less bright after that.

    P.S. dont stare at the sun. That would be idiotic, and the basis for the original comment is in jest. And it's saddening that it needs this note as (a) people need to be told not to do this , and (b) people will get shitty about the comment and be unable to comprehend that it is sarcasm.

  • I had a somewhat similar issue, with the bright led on my usb hub. I just punched out a circle of post it and stuck it over. The indicator still lights up and I can still see it, but it's markedly dimmer.

  • I was confused by OP's post. I thought they had bought a new PC with a bunch of RGB glowing and didn't like it lol.

    That little tiny blue LED that indicates power on and standby? Yeah just block it with tape or use a paint marker to darken it.

    I have a AOC monitor which uses a down facing amber (yellow) coloured light to indicate. Very gentle and nice solution when monitor is on it's off, and when on standby in a dark room it's like someone just has a gentle miniature ceiling light on under my monitor.
    I like that AOC took some steps to innovate on the standby indicator light. Oh and I forgot the light is a transparent button as well it's also the joystick to control the menu system.

    OP maybe next time go for products that don't have piercing indicator lights on the front?

  • +1

    Close your eyes

  • +1

    This has annoyed me for years. What I'd like to know is what kind of thought process is happening in the head of the designers of these devices, especially monitors and TVs. I mean you're staring directly at them for hours at a time, and they feel like they're burning a hole in the back of your retina! Do they actually use the products they design? I have sticky tape over all my monitors, TV, STB etc.

    • See my comment above. At least some designers are making an effort to try something different.

  • lower the input voltage

  • Melted chocolate

  • +2

    Big post for a small thing. Anyway I just use electrical tape

  • a) Blu Tack over the LED, then stick a piece of black plastic to the Blu Tack e.g. From something like an old BBQ sauce bottle which are usually dark brown. Just any black plastic, or any plastic - cut some from an old ice cream container and black texta it. Just change the Blu Tack every few months because it does eventually go hard and starts to get harder to remove.

    b) Anyone you know who mucks around fixing things who has a soldering iron can probably open the devices and remove the LEDs. Just get them to put an "X" or a dot or something on only one hole on the circuit board. And colour the LED leg that was in that hole with the texta too, so he knows later which way around the LED goes in without needing to waste time checking so he doesn't kill it. When it's time to refit, just pinch and wipe along the leg with a green kitchen scourer first to remove the texta so it's clean for the solder to stick. Keep the LEDs in separate sealed envelopes. Write on each one which device that LED came out of, in case their polarity is different between the different devices.

    c) Anything dark. Like a piece of paper with a black stripe a couple of cm wide printed on a laser printer. Cut and tape the paper to make a strip long enough to go all the way around the device. Then put a rubber band (or tie a few rubber bands together) over THE PAPER to hold it in place, and so when the rubber starts to age in a few months it will stick to the paper not the device. When it starts to age replace them with new ones.

    d) Blue painters tape. Again colour it black with a texta and/or put a few pieces together. Change it every month or 2 because it does eventually get harder to remove. Don't use standard masking tape. It's a nightmare to remove when it ages.

    e) Similar to the second point, get the person with the soldering iron to test a few different resistors to lower the brightness of the LEDs. (He fits one between one LED leg and it's hole on the circuit board.) Or buy different colour LEDs and solder them in instead. Or cut one LED leg (if the legs are long enough), solder one wire to each cut end, and the other ends solder onto a small switch. Then drill a hole in the back of the device and fit the switch. Now you can flick them on/off at will. If the LED legs are too short to insert a resistor, he just cuts one circuit track on one leg with an art knife/stanley knife, scratches the green coating off to reveal the copper trace, tins both sides with solder, then fits the switch wires across the two cut ends.

  • For the most part what you have there is nothing special, just paint over the LED's or break them.

  • stickers, emoji or some brand you like.

  • Bluetac

  • +1

    These are what you need: https://lightdims.com/index.php

    You can get them in a couple of shades, and a couple of colours. Work absolutely brilliantly.

    • Are these essentially just black stickers with a bunch of marketing?

      • +1

        Well … yeah. But they are see-through, so you can still see the lights.

        It sounds simple, but they got to market with a product that works, and saves much messing around.

        I've got these on all sorts of things.

  • You can get packs of small black stickers designed to go over these lights. I have some and they are great. Though it would be cheaper to use black electrical tape. I like that the small stickers are basically invisible, and you have the option of ones that will let a small amount of the light through for cases where you want to see if something is lit without it brightening the whole room.

    I also got a bottle of black nail polish that I use to paint over particularly annoying LEDs. This is more effective, but also harder to undo. It works great for places where you can't get a sticker.

    Those stupidly bright LEDs are a hug pet peeve of mine. Alongside appliances that feel the need to beep 10 times when they've finished.

  • Make sure you give PreSonus your feedback about the LEDs.
    "we founded PreSonus Audio Electronics, Inc on the principle of designing innovative audio products that provide professional sound quality and features without sacrificing affordability"
    I'm guessing that means they manufacture in China? Sometimes they just don't think about these details.
    I'm sure you are not the only one who uses their gear in a dark environment.

  • Black cellophane = bargain tint.

  • If you are worried about residue then try the same tricks that people use for covering up their laptop cameras.

    You can try the post-it note trick. If you still want some transparency then use the see through book page tags, they are see through on the sticky half and can use the dry coloured half to cover the camera/led light.

  • Glue gun. Will still be able to see the light.

  • Blinkers, like horse tack blinkers

  • open it up and disconnect the led cable.

  • move the speakers. Why do you have a giant speaker in your face in the first place? or idk just unplug the speakers. Are you using them???

  • Colour in with a black marker. I've done it.

  • Therapy.

  • Everything can be fixed with duct tape

  • Blutac

  • Throw it in the bin and get some decent gear instead.

  • https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0B585MQ7D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_…

    Purchased this product the other week, includes stickers that pretty much completely block out light and stickers that just dim light (e.g. for temperature on bedroom aircon).

  • I would strategically place the monitors so either:
    - a shelf/rim would cover the bottom portion where the LEDs are,
    - or lower them to below desk height (obviously, trial it out to see how it affects the sound).

    You can also get custom made cases made (e.g. like silicone or some other acoustically neutral material) but that could get expensive…

    As for the controller/head unit/crossover/whatever, back in the days of VHS and laserdisc, we used to have units with tinted glass doors. Pretty sure you might still be able to get some or have them made. Obviously, cable routing will have to be redesigned.

  • Ise blu-tak. Covers the light and is removable

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