How to Degrade Battery on Model 3?

Ok suppose I have a Tesla model 3 that's 6 years old. Rather than paying 16k for a replacement battery, how can I degrade the battery so it reaches the 70% amount which would allow me to get a free replacement battery as it will be covered by warranty?

Flooring it more often will degrade the battery but I'd like to know if there are better methods.

Comments

  • +86

    😂

    • +1

      Indeed.

      • +9

        Yes typical for this website , you bloody tightarse !

    • +1

      Ahh the problems with EVs

      And people were told they are CHEAP to run ??????????????????

      • -1

        just ask the 3 billion fanboi/grls, there are zero costs to running an ev

      • +18

        OP doesn't have an issue or say least hasn't said anything is actually wrong. They haven't mentioned battery health.

        Chances are they don't even own a Tesla and are still driving a $2500 Accord Lux 5km/h below the speed limit in the right lane on the freeway.

        Would you thrash a CVT to ensure it fails in the warranty period?

        • +3

          Would you thrash a CVT to ensure it fails in the warranty period?

          OP probably would.

      • +3

        Last time i checked ICE vehicles weren't exactly cheap to run.

      • +1

        You obviously missed that this is a troll post.

      • They are when you turn them over every 5 years.

      • +2

        For a battery to reach 70% it would have probably done near 500,000 kms. At this point, most ICE cars would need an engine replacement, and spent $40,000 extra on fuel minimum and what…10k-30k extra on servicing

      • Cheap to run, expensive to maintain

        • Maintenance is part of "running costs" mate.

          Running costs include:
          Fuel, rego, insurance, servicing and maintenance costs, cost of parts and repairs etc
          People often leave out depreciation as well.
          Its a cost of ownership.

          Divide $16,000 by say 8 years.
          The battery costs you $2,000pa.

        • +1

          Oxymoron !

  • +6

    Drive approximately 1.5 million kilometres. Charge it to full every time, run the heating, turn the stereo all the way up, run all accessories for maximum battery drain.

    • +3

      Run it to empty before recharging.

        • +9

          Not with Lithium.

          More you run it down to 0, the more you wear it down.

          • @meong: Depends on the specific chemistry, LiFePO4 is much more durable but only on the base model 3 and y. NCM batteries on the long range are really affected by the run down to 0 and charging to 100%. I imagine in a few years they will all shift to LiFePO4 or similar, some brands already have.

        • +2

          From memory that was true for NiMH batteries.

  • +4

    Ask Elon on X.

    • he already knows…

  • +36

    Or you could just not buy a replacement battery, and not think about a replacement battery, because you won't need one.

    • +33

      We don't do rational behaviour here.

    • +1

      True the second owner might though hopefully by then replacement batteries will be cheaper.

  • +9

    Drain the battery to 0 and then leave it like that for a month or two with no driving or charging. Normal rechargeable battery chemistry do not like to be left with no change for long periods of time.

    • You generally can't do that as what is indicated as 0% isn't really 0%, it's the safe level for maximum discharge.

    • do they not log for this type of stuff?

  • +30

    Short + and - terminals of the battery. Bonus points for doing this around 11:59pm on the 31st Dec.

    • +2

      It will leave the battery in a non claimable state for warranty.

      • +18

        Sarcasm must be on holidays this week.

        • +13

          Given the intellect behind the question, it’s perhaps reasonable to protect OP from themselves……..

  • +1

    Rather than paying 16k for a replacement battery

    How much do you reckon you 'saved' in the last 6 years from not having to pay for petrol?

    • +5

      Obviously not enough, since he feels he needs to completely destroy the battery just to feel that he has broken even of the 16K replacement cost.

    • +4

      How much do reckon he'll "save" when replacing the battery ?

    • Yea but you still got to pay for the electricity. Unless there's a hack where you can get free charging for the Tesla. Solar roof charging will doesn't count because that'll take ages.

  • +2

    OP, suppose it's insurance rather than warranty?

  • It will be hard. As I put iPhone in the fridge but it does not work- still 83%…

  • +16

    And then they plug in and find out that the user abused the battery and you get nothing from warranty but now you have a car with a (fropanity) battery that was worse than if you just treated the car normally. :D

    What is the battery currently at % wise? If it’s currently at 90%, it’s going to be a long track to get down to 70%, compared to if it’s at 73% and only needs to degrade a tiny amount.

    • +2

      Yeah. I feel there must be a black box these days that logs things that might suggest a battery/car got intentionally thrashed thus leaving it out of warranty.

  • Leave it at 100% constantly charging, or keep it very low (<20%) for long periods ;)

    Rapid discharge (flooring it) doesn't actually affect the battery chemistry that much, it just helps increase recharge cycles …

  • +2

    It’s 6 years old. How long do you plan on keeping it? what is the current battery status? Extrapolate that out, x% per year will mean it’s got y years left before range is a problem.

    Do some maths, you don’t need a new battery and you won’t need a new battery.

  • +39

    Call it names, treat it badly

    • That will surely degrade self-esteem of the batteries and they will feel deflated.

    • +1

      Worked in Ghostbusters for Bill Murray with the Slime.

    • +2

      what if it likes that - is it still battery?

      • +1

        Of course, there's no kink shaming here

  • +6
    • -8

      Uber Driver's Tesla Model 3 Battery Dies After 120,000 Miles In 15 Months

      LOL The irony is most ICE cars don't even make it to ~193k kms that that Tesla died in, before some major failure/work.

      • +2

        Rubbish. I haven’t moved a car on from my care with under 390,000km…

        • +5

          Rubbish. I haven’t moved a car on from my care with under 390,000km…

          You must be getting one of the special cars then, go look at the stats…. only 9.3% of cars currently on the road are over 20 years of age! So what happened to the rest? They didn't make it. Shock, ICE cars die, people just don't make a big deal about it like they do over EVs.

          source
          https://www.bitre.gov.au/sites/default/files/documents/BITRE…

          • +1

            @JimmyF: I would think cars 20+ years of age are increasingly rare not just because they die before then, but because you have to be motivated to keep such a car on the road, maintained and running.

            What percentage of people actually purchase a car from new or near new and keep it for 20+ years and maintain it properly? I'd say pretty rare. If anything the typical car passes around owner to owner, getting slowly more beat up and put in a lower market each time. The owner that buys a car at this age isn't likely to be in a mindset of keeping it for another 20 years unless it's some sort of collectible. Rather it'll be for the sake of it being a cheap, bomb of a car and they'll be treating it and maintaining it as such relative to their means and abilities.

            • @Kikkoman56:

              I would think cars 20+ years of age are increasingly rare not just because they die before then, but because you have to be motivated to keep such a car on the road, maintained and running.

              What do you mean? ICE cars don't have costs to keep them running do they so should easily be on the road at 20 years of age!? Well reading the comments here by some they should be, it is only EVs have these costs like needing a battery pack every 2 years ;)

              But you are right, as cars age, cost to maintain them goes up or cost of repair exceeds the value of the car. ICE or EV, both will be the same in the long run. Just like a ICE that you wouldn't drop $15k on a engine/auto repair/replacement and scrap it instead, the same will be for EVs if the battery fails at the 15 year mark.

              What percentage of people actually purchase a car from new or near new and keep it for 20+ years and maintain it properly? I'd say pretty rare.

              One of our cars is 12 years of age, had it from new, always looked after, in great condition, but I wouldn't drop $10k to fix now if it broke down. Its worth maybe $15k. I would roll the $10k repair costs into a new car and sell it for scrap. Which is what most people would do.

              The owner that buys a car at this age isn't likely to be in a mindset of keeping it for another 20 years unless it's some sort of collectible. Rather it'll be for the sake of it being a cheap, bomb of a car and they'll be treating it and maintaining it as such relative to their means and abilities.

              Don't disagree, but this is the thing, people seem to have this mindset for ICE cars that they die or end up having costly repairs and are scrapped but for EV cars they must be perfect for 30 years without a single repair issue.

              I view both the same, after about 15 years and both cars value would be near worthless as no one wants old cars.

          • @JimmyF:

            You must be getting one of the special cars then, go look at the stats…. only 9.3% of cars currently on the road are over 20 years of age!

            And? What's your point?
            It certainly has nothing to do with how far those cars have driven without any other information.

            How about the average Australian drives about 15,000 km per year.

            You have said that "most ICE cars don't even make it to ~193k kms"

            That means, according to you, the average car lasts less than 12.86 years.

            That's strange because according to the data you provided

            The average age of vehicles across Australia has increased from around 10.8 years in 2021 to around 11.0 years in 2021.

            That doesn't make sense because they have said 2021 twice.
            But we can look at the table for passenger vehicles and see it says 10.75 years

            At 15,000 km/year that means that the average car on the road has driven 161,250km
            So it's impossible that most ICEs don't make it to 193,000km

            Across all registered passenger vehicles:
            o Vehicles manufactured between 2017 and 2022 (0-5 years) comprised 25.8 per cent of the fleet.
            o Vehicles manufactured between 2012 and 2016 (5-10 years) comprised 28.4 per cent of the fleet.
            o Vehicle manufactured in 2001 and earlier (>20 years) comprised 9.3 per cent of the
            flee

            For some reason the report skips cars in the 10-20 that's bracket.
            But you can calculate that to be 36.5% of cars are been 10-20 that's old.
            So then 45.8% of all cars are over 10 years old, which alligns to the average age above.

            All you ultimately need to do is maintain your ICE, and like most other things it'll last. Just like these
            https://www.drive.com.au/caradvice/the-highest-mileage-cars-…

  • If it’s anything like my iPhone, keep screen brightness as high as possible and stop using wi-fi, that should do it

    • So leave high beam and interior lights on?

  • Don't stress, it will happen naturally without trying.

  • +1

    Heat is not good for batteries.

    • Road trip to Alice Springs?

    • Same with cold. EV batteries hate the cold. Being warm or hot isn’t as much of an issue as being super cold and either hammering on it or hitting it with a super charger.

      My EV scooter has a massive noticeable difference summer to winter. My ride to work in summer uses up 5% of the battery… in winter, it’s 7%.

      • energy = heat = expansion so heat isn't a problem unless extreme then it's a bang!.

  • +1

    Recharge it with lightning strikes ( Frankenstein style)

    • +1

      If you're going to the trouble of charging with lightning strikes, you may as well install a flux capacitor.

    • -1

      Yeah great idea. Maybe top up the worn fillings in your teeth with an arc welder ,too.

  • Keep it at 100% + heat. Under the sun or point a space heater under the car. It will be still very difficult to degrade the battery to 70%. The BMS will automatically keep the battery cool.

    • In Siberia they actually light a fire under cars to melt the fuel enough to start the engine.

      Do that on the daily, somehow avoiding burning your house down each and every time, spend about 17k on wood, and with any luck you'll save that 16k battery replacement fee!

  • +1

    Supercharging ONLY, no slow charges in between supercharges.

    • And they will see that on the cars history when the plug into it. Would need to read the T&C on constant supercharging.

  • +12

    Your Tesla is a data collecting machine. It's the automotive equivalent of Google. Anything you do, they will know about.

  • -1

    Ironic how the save the planet EV fanboys are already looking for a way to short life their batteries for a free ride.
    And they happily bag ICE cars.
    Bring on the EV tax

    • +24

      Plenty of people are buying EVs outside of environmental reasons.

      Life exists outside of forums where fanboys argue. Might be time to head outside and touch grass.

    • People don’t buy EV’s for environment reasons, especially Tesla owners. They buy because they think it is some sort of status symbol.

    • Ironic how somebody who uses the word "fanboy" can't spot an obvious troll post

      No wait, not ironic

      What's that other word

      "Obvious", that's it

      • I'm flattered you continue to seek me out. xxx

    • Idk, I'd rather be on team save the planet rather than team save the saudis but go off.

  • raise the car. floor it non stop until battery dies. recharge repeat for a year

    battery should degrade by then

    also will have massive power bill but at least u get free battery change

    • +9

      Spend $18k in electricity to save $16k on a battery swap. Brilliant!

  • how can I degrade the battery so it reaches the 70% amount which would allow me to get a free replacement battery as it will be covered by warranty?

    What is the current battery state of health? You can run a health check from the car to see that does a drain/charge cycle.

    But basically you are trying to kill what could be a good battery to get a new one. This attempt could be seen by Tesla and void your warranty.

  • +13

    Isn't this topic "trolling"?

    Its not a genuine question. The OP just created the thread to annoy people.

    He doesn't say he has a 6 year old Tesla. He merely says "suppose …".

    • +1

      Its the holidays, we have a lot of 'troll' posts kicking around. Lots around Tesla/Elon too.

    • The amount of people who fall for this is embarrassing.

    • -1

      Is any topic in here recently legit?
      One would think not, but people are idiots. So I’m guessing this is a legit post from an idiot. Like most of the other posts.

  • How you trash it and can only get it down to 71% during the warranty period

  • -1

    This is interesting, so 6y old car now probable worth $40k, OP probably driven 100k? Battery replacement is around $16k?

    Based on that, why would anyone buy a second hand tesla when $10k more you get the latest model within full warranty. RIP EV second hand market.

    Edit, for 70% degradation, probably have to drive 200k lol good luck OP 😆

    • Based on that, why would anyone buy a second hand tesla when $10k more you get the latest model within full warranty. RIP EV second hand market.

      Applies to the ICE market as well. Gearbox/Motor faults can be costly as (profanity) to fix in eurotrash as well, so why pay mega dollars for a old car. Most ICE cars that are 7 years old, are worth fractions of their 'new' value.

      Battery degradation is just that, it's not a failure, its a reduced capacity. So the car still 'works' as such but instead of getting 400kms range when new, it now might get ~280km with 30% degradation.

      • +1

        Im not sure about that, bought a Euro ICE car which is 150k driven, add another 100k to the clock and sold it. It didn't cost me $17k including the repairs/services.
        But based on Euro and US data EV vs ICE, cost of use almoat same after 7years.

        https://nickelinstitute.org/media/8d9058c08d2bcf2/avicenne-s…

        I know in Ozb everyone only picking on batteries, they have other issues too when it's get old.

        • But based on Euro and US data EV vs ICE, cost of use almoat same after 7years.

          The battery just doesn't 'die' at the 7 year mark. But lets say it did at the 10 year mark and is replaced for $16k. Thats about $1600/yr.

          How much did you spend on servicing in that time on a ICE?

          Im not sure about that, bought a Euro ICE car which is 150k driven, add another 100k to the clock and sold it. It didn't cost me $17k including the repairs/services.

          How old was this Euro ICE car when you got it and when you sold it?

          Not sure why you think when a EV clocks over 7 years of age it magically needs a $16k 'battery'.

          https://nickelinstitute.org/media/8d9058c08d2bcf2/avicenne-s…

          I would like to see that report using Model 3 and Y instead of a Model S.

          • @JimmyF: True Battary don't die on 100k, hence I add to the original comment. Op is dreaming to get it replaced within the warranty lol

            • @boomramada:

              Op is dreaming to get it replaced within the warranty lol

              Agree on this one. OP hasn't even posted the health state, it is most likely 90% or more, so nothing to worry about.

        • +1

          Except OP's battery is more than likely fine.

          Chances are it will go on to 250k+ without issue. Though, it's more likely to reach 250k if OP sells it.

  • +2

    Next thread in six months. Battery down to 73% but Tesla won’t replace under warranty.

  • +6

    Here’s a thought, wonder if EV makers artificially increase the battery health during the warranty period, there’s no oversight on the code, it’s all closed source and, it’s all software. There’s also no OBD2 for third party verification.
    Apple did the same thing a few years ago. Wouldn’t shock me if Tesla gave it a go too.

    Ie once the warranty expires your battery health drops to 50% and it was above 75% the week before..

    • Carries a large risk if found out. All the diesel manufacturers that have been caught with cheat devices will face some reputational damage for causing environmental harm but a battery cheat is aimed squarely at the customer. Bound to happen at some point though.

    • There’s also no OBD2 for third party verification.

      I guess I must be imagining the OBD2 port in my EV and the free apps I use with the inexpensive dongle

  • In the last 6 months of warranty, just jack the car up every night floor it till it's completely flat and charge it up again repeat

  • +2

    It would be a tragedy that all the attempts to harm the battery makes the SoH to be just 70.5% by the time the warranty runs out.

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