Seems a good price (these days) for 6 litres of this full synthetic oil. Make sure it suits your car.
Best to go to Nulon’s Lube Guide. Sometimes the retailers don’t have accurate information.
My cars also show they re not suited but the Nulon site says it’s fine.
https://www.nulon.com.au/vehicle-lube-guide
Check it yourself, these auto part finders are not always correct online.
Check your car's user manual for what weight and specification oil you need, then see if this one meets or beats that.
Kind Regards
There are actually very few instances where thats true.
There are some parts of a vehicle that can have their life shortened by using the wrong oil (namely, Catalytic converters in the case of high Zinc, or DPF in the case of High SAPS); but in terms of hurting your actual engine, odds are astronomically small.
There's also the fact that some companies pay for brand specific tests, and some don't.
That doesn't mean the ones who don't aren't also fine.
They just weren't tested, so you accept that, you're doing the testing.
This particular oil is Dexos1 approved.
One of its properties is that it Helps prevent LSPI . Low speed pre-ignition . Pretty big deal that causes catastrophic failure .
Some engines are more susceptible than others .
One of its properties is that it Helps prevent LSPI
Common misconception.
It means it's less likely to cause LSPI, it doesn't actually help prevent it.
And the real reason is, because it's thin… that's all.
DEXOS1 rating has more to it than that (sludge tests etc) but the LSPI part, is literally a resistance to flow test.
Shift into a high gear and apply load at low RPM and you can still bring it on quite easily, regardless of oil choice.
Personally, Im more inclined to prevent it by shifting, than changing fluids.
@troyww: Nope. Low speed pre ignition is all about high load on the air fuel mixture, for a long time. Be that heat load or compressive load.
Anything that makes an engine harder to turn over (like fluid viscoscity) adds to that load.
Its really not a concern if you dont try and labour your engine in high gears at low speeds.
Hear hear!!!
Incorrectly says "doesn't fit my vehicle".
Nulon site shows it does fit my vehicle.
Bought it anyway.
Have been buying this oil for some time now.
Pretty expensive… I use this stuff when doing an oil change to flush the engine then put penrite in.
Why not just use an engine oil flush additive instead?
Because you'll NEVER drain it all.
So your new fill is contaminated with what is usually hydrocarbons from day1.
Anything oil that's not pure PAO/Esther will break down almost instantly with hydrocarbons (hence why its a flush).
You use the additive on the OLD oil, then flush it with sacrificial oil and 1 heat cycle, then put your 'good' oil in.
Assuming you have a collector/tuner car worth that level of care\waste that is.
Everyone else should just use a 'Diesel' rated oil if you suspect sludge buildup, for the higher levels of Calcium, and let the oil itself 'clean' your engine.
A3/B4?
Unfortunately doesn't seem to be.
You'll need to go down their 'performance' selection for that, at a heavier weight.
https://www.nulon.com.au/products/engine-oils/apex-plus/apx5…
😔
Why are some 5W-30 fine, and other's not ?