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HÖGKLASSIG Induction Hob, Black, 59cm $989.10 C&C /+ Delivery (IKEA Family Membership Required) @ IKEA

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Ikea is currently running a promotion for Ikea family members (free to join) https://www.ikea.com/au/en/cat/metod-kitchen-ka005/ "10% off METOD kitchen system and appliances*" for orders over $1000

Have been eyeing this induction hop with the help of @unacceptable, have finally decided to pull the trigger.

Total comes down to $989.10.

Belived to be a rebranded AEG, finally deciding to move away from gas and convert to induction for health reasons.
10% is automatically applied in cart as long as your logged in as ikea family member.

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  • How much does the AEG equivalent (if true) cost?

    • +2

      Not this model but my Ikea induction was ~$700 in 2016 and yes it was an AEG, had their sticker underneath. IIRC the AEG was double at Hardly Normal.

      It's been great :)

    • +4

      I believe the model is https://www.aegaustralia.com.au/cooking/cooktops/induction-c…

      Power specs and dimensions are identical

      • Wow, $2,799. It does pretty much look exactly the same!

        • I wonder if the matt finish on the AEG is a nightmare for scratches and scuffs.

  • +1

    My cheaper Ikea model induction top is Electrolux, who owns AEG.

    Apart from it buzzing a bit when it's on high power (or multiple hobs going at once) its great. I'm pretty sure that's normal as I've had two of the same model that both do this.

    • +1

      Yeah induction during their higher setting 8,9 or boost will make a buzzing sound but I'm not too fussed about it.

      • +2

        The noise is actually the pots themselves, it's the laminated layers of metal vibrating against each other. Usually worse on cheaper pans that aren't laminated well. If you use cast iron there's no noise, given it's a single piece of metal from bottom to surface.

        • Hmmm i'll test that out. IIRC my cast iron plate makes the same noise. Interesting!

        • my cast iron pan does that still. I thought it was the fans that make the noises.

    • Just curious where is everyone installing these?

      I just bought an oven with a hob at the top instead

      • New kitchen?

  • +2

    I have the bigger ikea induction cooktop … highly recommend.

    • What size? I'd like to replace a Smeg gas cooktop I think under 90cm, weird dimensions

      • The biggest one they do is only 78cm… so that's not replacing a 90cm one

  • Which of the IKEA oven is good?
    https://www.ikea.com/au/en/search/?q=oven&filters=f-function…

    I need to replace both Induction cooktop and oven.

    • The one I've got is most like the FORNEBY as I wanted knobs for the main controls. Internals are shared with Electrolux etc, main PCB died at 6.5 years and was approx $350 fitted.

      • Dies after 6.5 years that not good

        • If it actually died and was uneconomical to repair I'd buy the FORNEBY today.

          Do you think a sample size of one describes its bathtub curve?

          • +1

            @overcoat: True, one sample doesn't make a curve, but if my new oven becomes a $1500 paperweight in 6.5 years, I don’t really care about the shape of the curve.

    • Same boat. Should I replace my 10-year-old or more oven? Still working. Never cleaned. Little use in the last 2-3 years since I got my air fryer.

  • My experiences with induction cooktops are thus:

    1. Capacitive touch for heat controls is unreliable, I would much prefer a knob

    2. If you cook for extended periods on multiple burners they will overheat and shut down which is very annoying!

    Is there an induction cooktop out there that has solved these issues?

    • I love induction but I really hate when:
      3. They turn off after the smallest bit of water bubbles out of the pot.

      • That isn't a standard feature on all induction hobs (boil-over protection), there might be a way to turn that off on your particular one - unless you mean that the water is hitting the capacitative buttons and turning it off that way.

        • Yep that's what is happening. I have a Westinghouse and the controls are very close to the large induction plate. It always seems to spit something that lands on the buttons and turns it off.

    • +1

      One of the samsung induction has an magnetic knob you can use but I can't comment on the longevity of it.

      Induction need to have good ventilation, so if your underneath cabinet doesn't have great ventilation its most likely why it would over heat.

      At this price point I'm not really complaning for the specs I'm getting from ikea.

    • +1

      My cooktop has internal cooling fans. I assume they all do? I only hear the fans on mine come on when I've been blasing it. Never had it shut down.

      • Having opened up my cheaper Ikea model Matmassig (when the glass broke), I can confirm it has fans underneath. It had 2 fans inside.

    • On point 1, I totally agree, but I wouldn't change to knobs since It would be harder to clean and wouldn't just be bench space when off. They should make a range hood with knobs to control induction hobs to have the best of both worlds.

  • Ikea having a fire sale in Springvale

    • Can you elaborate?! Do you mean that this and other products at Ikea Springvale may be cheaper than listed price?

      • He means the store is on fire. *whooosh

  • +1

    I've got one of these, love it.

    Easy to clean and powerful. Boils water very fast.

  • +1

    Have one of these in the box ready to go for my underway kitchen Reno. Haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but it’s made in Germany which even most of the Bosch units aren’t.

    Also paid with discounted gift cards so I think I got it for $930ish

    • My Bosch (PUJ611BB5E) was made in Spain. Like it though!

  • +3

    If you're replacing an existing gas stovetop like I just did, and if it's sunk in to engineered stone the hardest part is getting the stone cut to size and ensuring the thickness of the bench top is sufficient. This model requires a min bench top thickness of 28 mm, my bench top is 20 mm. Fortunately I found a Bosch model that has a min requirement of 16 mm.

    • Was the electrician able to cap the gas when you made the switch?

      • I think you need a plumber/gas fitter to disconnect the gas and a sparky to connect the new cooktop.

      • For me I was able to remove the gas stove top myself, fortunately there’s a lever to the gas connection in the kitchen cabinet. Additionally this was the only gas appliance so I’ve since turned the gas off at the mains. I didn’t pay anyone to “cap” it.

  • +1

    This model has some pretty good specs including 2300 W across all 4 zones, (boosted up to 3200 W) and a bridge/flex mode and 5 year warranty

  • +2

    I'm currently planning a kitchen reno & while considering moving to an induction cooktop read what Choice had to say about various induction cooktops. I can't find the PDF I saved, but I remember the Hogklassig came towards the top of their rankings for 60cm induction cooktops (not that I blindly trust Choice though).

    I saw an ad on Facebook yesterday saying Choice has done new induction cooktop tests, but I haven't read that yet so don't know if they've changed their opinion on Hogklassig.

    Hogklassig is still a frontrunner in my mind, if you can get it like now at 10% off & pay using Ultimate gift cards for a further 10% off (which you can at the moment if you buy the right gift card, see other threads).

    Here are the notes I wrote about the Hogklassig after reading the older test by Choice:
    - Cheapest induction cooktop towards the top of Choice’s list.
    - 5 yr warranty.
    - Very good scores: 2m,34 sec boil time. 92% performance score, 100% simmer score, 100% turn down score.
    - Possibly a re-branded AEG/Electrolux but far cheaper & with 5 yr versus 2yr warranty [think I heard the re-branding info from OzBargain]

    Also note that IKEA had a similar 10% off Metod, appliances etc sale in February this year & towards the end of last year, so if you're not ready to pull the pin yet, know that this sale is likely to come around again before the year is out. The price hasn't increased since last year, so there's no need to rush in if you want Hogsklassig for a discounted price but it's too early in your planning to buy appliances (ideally you don't want the clock to start ticking on the warranty while the cooktop sits in storage in your place).

    • Choice still rates this highly. You can read Choice magazine online for free if you have a membership to a library that subscribes. Many local WA libraries subscribe.

  • Can anyone give me idea how much it will cost to disconnect my gas stove and install a new induction? I only have one powerpoint that used for ovan.
    Thanks :)

    • it depends really, try posting on airtasker for a rough idea.

    • +1

      Likely need higher amperage for the induction top so could need to run a new line from the breaker. 32A as opposed to 10A standard. Not cheap, depending on distance.
      Matmassig model requires 2x16A or 1x32A line. Your oven might already have a high amperage line but doubtful it is high enough for induction cooktop.
      Capping gas is relatively easy, but a plumber as opposed to a sparky so a separate callout.
      Then the benchtop needs to suit and so on.
      Realistically upgrading to induction from without in an existing kitchen is pretty costly. Much more worthwhile as part of a kitchen do over.

      That said induction rocks. It's super fast to cook anything, super stable temperature and the easiest thing to clean ever. The glass can be a bit delicate however.

    • +1

      I'm doing the same, got a quote of $1024 for electrician to run a new line from meterbox (32A) and do all the electrics, and $200 for gas plumber to disconnect, cap and remove the existing. The electrician and gas plumber work together and turn up at same time on same day. They also fit the new induction stove so don't need an additional handyman or anything, as long as you don't have a marble benchtop that needs cutting or anything too fancy. Perth area.

      • Thanks very much. Also Perth but shocking at $1024 for electrician and price for gas plumber to disconnect.

  • +2

    I have this induction cooktop! Its awesome, heats really nicely and the ability to use a very large pot with the right side is great! The only issue is that it scratches super easily so no jostling the pans intensely

  • I'm replacing a gas cooktop, the existing cutout is 490 x 570mm. This one (and it seems most induction cooktops) require cutout of 490 x 560mm (+/- 1mm according to Ikea manual). The top is 520 x 590mm so it will cover the slightly wider cutout. The benchtop is just your standard laminate over particleboard. From research it seems you can add filler strips to fill in the gap, but I'm not sure if that's necessary for this small difference of 10mm? Does anyone have a similar experience, or thoughts on whether I should worry about that 10mm extra gap?

    • You could probably make it work with a bit of fandangling, just add 10mm strip of timber to the inside edge of the wider benchtop hole. The underside of the glass has a rubbery seal underneath that is best sitting on clean benchtop to form a water resistant interface.

      Obviously a bit more weight bearing on a potentially smaller contact area, so it might be overall a bit weaker, but I generally reckon you should be fine.

      Do your best and caulk the rest =D

      • Hey thanks for your advice, good to know about the rubbery seal. I found some 35 x 4mm thick board Tasmanian Oak from Bunnings that will probably do the trick, to add 4mm to each side (couldn't find anything suitable from Bunnings that was exactly 5mm thick).

        The Ikea drawing also shows 55mm between the back of the cutout and the wall. I think this is for heat dissipation, ventilation and/or space for wiring? My cutout is also a bit closer to the wall - about 40mm underneath and 35mm on top (tiles take up a bit of space). That should be enough space for the top lip facing the wall to rest on the benchtop, which I guess is the main thing. Should I worry about the smaller gap at the back, do you think? Anyone know if ventilation comes out the back, or if the wiring needs lots of room? Any advice is much appreciated!

        • +1

          I have Matmassig, and all the components are directly under the hob, allowing installation into a thick benchtop.
          The cable can come out the back but can come out downwards instead if required.

          The top distance doesn't matter if you've got a tiled splashback. It might just get dirty easily.
          Induction only heats the actual pan unlike gas so it's less likely to heat up surrounding stuff radiantly (new word!) as with a flame.

          This is the bottom of Matmassig - see that you can bend the cable downwards instead of backwards:
          https://imgur.com/a/t5MKQ0Y
          Note the fans pointing downward also.

          • @Thiefsie: Awesome thanks for that great answer, yeah I don't think I'll worry about that 55mm rear space then, probably not an issue. cheers mate!

  • -2

    Are these crafted by the honest, simple, hard working, indigenous people of … wherever?

  • Despite the scratches…this is a truly awesome cooktop. Heats up a 24 inch cast iron pan till it smokes in less than 20 seconds.

  • Deal done. …

  • I was in the Perth IKEA this morning & there was a sign at the top of the escalators saying the 10% off kitchen sale had been extended. I forget until when. I think it was 4th July.

    This is NOT mentioned anywhere on the IKEA website. I'm not sure if it's only Perth or Aus-wide.

    Big W still has EDR points discount for Ultimate gift cards too, so you could effectively get 20% off kitchen appliances etc if you stack with the IKEA sale.

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