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Amazon Basics 8-Pack Rechargeable AAA 800mAh NiMH Batteries $10.90 (RRP $14.90) + Del ($0 with Prime/ $59 Spend) @ Amazon AU

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Pre-Charged (Low Self Discharge).
Similar to this deal but now only AAA is a good deal and the unit price for the 8-pack AAA is cheaper than 12- and 16-pack.

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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  • +2

    Thanks OP. Assume i can put these in an eneloop charger ive got lying around?

    • As long as the eneloop charger accepts NiMH (most should) this will work.

      • How do these compare with enloop?

  • +5

    yes they're the same NiMH type

    • Just curious what devices you use rechargeable battery on?

      For example i only need to change tv remotebattery like once a year

      • Tuya temperature sensors, solar Christmas lights, wireless mouse…

        • Thanks, is the tuyajust to monitor temp or do u do other stuff with the temp readings?

          • @ATTS: Temperature and humidity. Handy for me to see when I'm not home so I know whether to turn the aircon on before I get there. Also good to see temperature trends in the house.

      • Small sensor lights for alleyways

      • meta quest controllers
        tv controllers
        movement sensors / stairway lights
        camera flashes (sb600 etc) - the recycle time and number of flashes is WAY better than disposables for this application

        • but these are 800mAh… would that be too small for meta quest controllers?

          • @muddrex: sorry i was replying to the original thread where the person said

            Just curious what devices you use rechargeable battery on?

            Yes its on the small side. I still use eneloops lol

            • @Jimothy Wongingtons: cuz i use 2500 mAh ones and they already need relatively frequent replacements so when i thought you mentioned using these 800 mAh ones for Quest i'm like… would it even last one Beat Saber session?

        • Nice thanks

          Btw can you mak3 yout movements sensor send an push notification to your phone when sensor senses movements?

          • @ATTS: I tried those Tuya Movement sensors, no they don't work that well.

            Reason: they run in low power mode, only the sensor has power, not the WiFi. When movement detected, then it'll attempt connecting to the router, take a while to authenticate, then finally connect, then send request to their server…..

            I set a script to turn on the light when sensor detects movement,

            and a minute later, the light turns on after the sensor detect movement……

            • @OMGJL: Thanks that sux with the 1 minute delay

              Is there a guide to set scripts btw?

              • @ATTS: tuya script is super easy, in the smart home app you can easily do automation, like if sensor is detected, then switch on some light.

                it's kinda like those programming app designed for 5 y-o.

      • +2

        I'm replacing all my remote batteries to avoid leakage. Rather charge the battery once a year than deal with leaks.

        • So noob q but what cause battery leak? Ive only noticed it leaks if have battery inside and dont use the device for like 6 + months

          • +2

            @ATTS: Not 100% but I know that leaving discharged batteries in a device can cause leakage but I've seen batteries leak still in the packet as well as a leak in a remote I use semi-regularly (and was still working). Just not worth the risk for me anymore.

            • @Darkscythe: Thanks, yeah sounds better to get rechargeable to avoid a leak and damage.

              I killed a smart body scale when i didnt weigh myself for like 6+ months

              • +1

                @ATTS: I don't need leaking batteries to kill my smart body scale if I don't weigh myself for 6 months.

                • @BadGiraffe: unfortunately usually scales need 1.5v battery, these NiMH 1.2v won't work in a lot of the scales.

                  Either you risk leaking with Alkaline batteries (better brand usually have some sort of anti-leak technology anyway), or you need to buy extremely expensive Lithium batteries.

                  • @OMGJL: I was thinking more along the lines of killing the scale with just the fat I put on in 6 months.

      • Clocks, toys, bubble guns, dental flossy machines, automatic soap dispensers.

        • Thanks

      • +1

        AAA's - Bathroom & kitchen scales (always buy ones that take AAA's rather than button cells), remotes, clock in campervan.

        AA's - Keyboard and too many mice, CO detector in campervan.

  • +2

    Thanks OP. Cheaper and easier than rolling the dice with whether Ikea has any Ladda batteries in stock on any given day.

    • But these don't seem to be Japanese made.

      • The Ladda are Japanese made? 😲

        • +5

          Yep, as far as I know, they are made in the same factory as Eneloops.

        • +2

          rebadged Eneloop Pro's, supposedly - same discharge signature. But last time I was there they didn't have any.

    • I’ve pretty much given up on IKEA Ladda batteries and had to get them from IKEA overseas. The IKEA sensors are really picky, people say they work better with Ladda batteries.

      • +2

        interesting? it's the same electrons

      • I think it's the difference between designing for rechargeable NiMH AAA or alkaline AAA. Different chemistries means different nominal voltages (1.2 or 1.5 volts respectively) and discharge curves.

        The reverse is true of the majority of sensors which expect alkaline. I have a zigbee tap valve that never reports full charge with NiMH and stops working with capacity to spare.

        The biggest difference between consumer NiMH is the name on the label and this isn't something the sensor can sense.

        tl;dr same electrons

      • +1

        IKEA sensors just need 1.2V which is any rechargeable AA battery. Normal AA (non-rechargeable) is 1.5V. It's not a brand issue but voltage.

      • The IKEA sensors are really picky, people say they work better with Ladda batteries.

        Picky in what way? Which sensors?

        If you're referring to battery drain in the Parasoll door sensors, it looks like a hardware design issue and not related to the battery voltage or brand used.

        The sensors are designed to work with a range of voltages from 0.6V to 1.5V by using a boost converter to step up the supply voltage to 2.2V. There is not enough filtering on the output of the boost converter so sometimes the MCU gets stuck in a fault condition where the MCU never goes to sleep which drains the battery. Adding a small filter cap cleans up the power supply and seemingly fixes the problem.

        Issue shown here, resolution here.

  • thanks OP missed the last one

  • +1

    suggest good cheap charger for these batteries?

    • +3

      Happy with my LiitoKala

  • +1

    Can we recharge then with IKEA chargers anyone tried ?

    • +2

      Yes

    • +1

      Can we recharge then with IKEA chargers

      Ikea chargers are mostly rubbish. Ikea apparently don't do any testing, they just say whatever the manufacturer wrote on the box.

      For example, in the description of their "LITOSFÄR" charger, they say

      Charge is terminated by individual minus delta or zero delta voltage detection (-dV/dT or 0dV/dT).

      But when you read the manual, it says the charging time is between 9 hours and 11 hours. When you charge batteries that slowly, the -dV/dT effect is so small it's not measurable. Look at real smart chargers, they take 1 to 2 hours to charge, and this is what you need to do to get a measurable -dV/dT effect. In short, this looks very much like a (dumb) timer-based charger. It might have a -dV/dT circuit, but it's unlikely to ever work.

      If you buy the "STENKOL" charger, it says 6-8 hours for charging 4 batteries, so barely any better. But if you charge only two batteries at a time, it brings the charging time down to 3-4 hours, which is fast enough that the -dV/dT effect is measurable with difficulty.

      Batteries are expensive, I recommend you buy a good charger to look after them. You can get a Liitokala Lii-500 (the version with a plugpack power supply) for around $30 (Australian dollars) on AliExpress, it's worth the price. Also buy a mains plug adapter at the same time, as Liitokala doesn't supply plugpacks with an AU mains plug. There are some other Liitokala chargers that are cheaper, but beware: I know someone who recently bought an Lii-M4S, and that will only do 500mA when charging NiMh batteries, which means a 2450mAh AA battery will take 5+ hours to charge, which is too slow for reliable -dV/dT charge termination.

      • Thanks for the detailed explanation. Will get a good charger now

        • +1

          With the Lii-500, it's very versatile, but that means you'll need to press a few buttons each time you insert a battery. It defaults to "charge" and "500mA", which is fine for AAA batteries. For AA batteries select 1000mA as the charge current (press the "current" button twice).

          The "mode" button also lets you select two test modes: "Fast" test which is quick but not very accurate, and "NOR" test which is slower but very accurate. Both of these modes will measure the capacity of your batteries, so you can know which ones are wearing out, and you can mark them so you don't use them for something important, like in your camera flash when you're photographing a wedding!

          If you'd rather have a charger with no settings to adjust, look for the Panasonic k-kj55mcc4ta charger. Make sure it says "1.5 hours" on the packaging, other inferior chargers look almost the same!

          Edit: I just had a look, and the k-kj55mcc4ta is currently on special. I posted it as a deal: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/925451

  • The batteries are made in Japan or China?

    • +1

      Description says China as the country of origin.

  • Damn literally just bought a 16pack the other day.

  • Thanks. Bought

  • Also purchased, haven’t seen ladda AAA in a very long time

  • +1

    Be interesting to know the actual self-discharge rates of these other NiMHs. In my very very very unscientific testing I got:
    (sample size of only 2 lol so easily could pick a dud)

    Zero day charge/test:
    Very old Aldi Activ Energy: 574, 419
    Very old Turnigy: 648, 818
    Oldish LADDA: 697, 711
    Recent Liitokala: 966, 973

    ~1 month discharge capacity:
    Aldi #1: 498 (-15%)
    Turnigy #1: 549 (-18%)
    LADDA #1: 643 (-7.6%)
    Liitokala #1: 890 (-8.7%)

    ~2 month discharge capacity:
    Aldi #2: 0, dud?
    Turnigy #2: 686 (-19%)
    LADDA #2: 662 (-7.4%)
    Liitokala #2: 807 (-20%)

    Tested with Lii-600, so it's all relative to each other, not the marketed rating as such.

    • I bought a bunch of Turnigy LSDs years ago, and initially they were ok a few years (I'd say around 3 years when I noticed) they were garbage. This tracks.

  • Anyone had experience with this brand POWEROWL? Seems to be cheaper price per unit with 20% off coupon but with 1000mAh: https://www.amazon.com.au/POWEROWL-Rechargeable-Batteries-10…

    • The reviews seem to say they’re good but don’t reach the stated capacity of 1000mAh.

  • +2

    I've been switching to the XTAR ones from Amazon recently. Primarily because they are 1.5V and rechargeable, versus the standard 1.2V for rechargeables. They have been okay so far!

  • tempted to get this, only use Eneloops rechargeable batteries befoe

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