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50% off all Valvoline Products + Club Plus Specials, Shell Helix HX3 20W-50 5L $12.99 @ Supercheap Auto

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Also Set a Reminder for the Supercheap Auto Club Plus Shopping Night 27th September, just in time for the iconic Bathurst week.

Club Plus Specials

  • 25% off Blackridge and Stanley compressors
  • 25% off Trolley and Bottle Jacks
  • 25% off Stanley Hand Tools and Kits
  • 20% off Toledo electrical tools
  • 30% off Seat Covers

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closed Comments

  • +1 vote

    It's a shame SynPower is inferior over here :(
    In the states, it's a GrouIV oil. Over here it's a Group III.

    Doesn't mean it works any worse, just, not as long.

    • +5 votes

      You really know your lubricants.

      • +1 vote

        Way too many hours and dollars put into online courses and UOA reports.

        When I was younger, and wanted to be 'into cars' but lacked the confidence to spanner on them, like I do today; Things I could 'tip in' and 'Drain Out' were my refuge :)

        •  

          Maybe you could answer a question I can't seem to decipher? A5 grade oil, what is the difference between it and A3? Pros and cons?
          Is it longer life, stickier? In brief, does it have to be A5 always?

        • +2 votes

          Hey MasterScythe, I remember when you used to have heated discussions over engine oils over at Atomic. Those were the days…

        •  

          @Chazzozz:
          Oh wow, I didn't think I'd see Atomicans I recognised out of the Forums.
          I'm still posting there actively :P

          Just cracked 20k :)

        • +3 votes

          @Quarn:

          Without going into it TOO much, You'd get away with an A5 oil in an A3 rated vehicle, as long as it was ONLY doing light duty (eg, no towing, or 4x4 driving, etc, nothing that will make the engine hotter than 'normal' running temp).

          A1\A5 demands a High temp, High Shear viscosity of 2.9~3.5cP @ 150*C
          A3 demands at LEAST 3.5cP at 150C.

          If you vehicle demands a A1/A5…..
          You PROBABLY also wouldn't want an A3 oil during Winter, unless you live in a VERY warm area, because, unless they're using a very expensive PAO base oil, "Tougher when warm" (higher shear and viscosity ratings), 9 times out of 10, means just the same when cold (thicker).

          It's been a while since I looked into 'A' ratings, as I've always found it easier to reference the MSDS and the viscosity at 40 & 100 ratings.

        •  

          @MasterScythe: i have a question for you, my cars manual has a scale which shows that the recommended oil I 5w-30, but shows also that it can use 10w-30 if you aren't in -8 temperatures and 20w-50 if it's not going to go below 0 deg C. Realistically will it make a difference if I cheap out and buy 20w-50 and if yes why would the manufacturer recommend it?

        • +1 vote

          @Jackson:

          There are a few things to explain in your question.

          First, a 10w30 would be my choice over a 5w30. Mainly because the further apart the first number is from the second, the more viscoscity modifiers theyve had to formulate, and this is the main thing that breaks down and sludges.

          Now, for thickness, you're right. Most places in Australia will run near any engine fine on 20w50, an oil pump is physically linked to your engines rotation. If its spinning, its pumping.

          Down sides are things like minor fuel economy loss (hard to pump), much less flow while cold (pressure is always high, so the pump bypass is open often) which isnt the end of the world if you are CERTAIN to drive low RPM and low load untill the engine is hot.
          The only major down side? It's always a mineral, usually some percentage Group2 oil. It'll work, but you'll need to do oil changes more often.

          If you want to be cheap, then you can always use Diesel oil, its all compatible with petrol cars too (its all marketing). TopdogXDO is usually cheap.

          Also, 15w40 is usually the cheapest oil, its the closest viscoscity to 'natural, its not insanely thicker than your manual says, and it should be available cheap in semi synthetics (like shell hx5, iirc). So you can use a normal servicing drain interval.

          Make sense? :)

        •  

          @MasterScythe: Yes makes sense, basically I picked up some full synthetic from SCA and and planned to use that, however a mate's BA falcon needed a service and afterwards there were 4.5L of 10w 30 semi-synth so rather than open a new one and have an open bottle lying around I used that and then the extra L left with my mate in case he needed a top up.

          I am hoping to stretch service interval to a year on this semi-synth, do you think that's a fair call or am I being ambitious? I never do the kms in this car, but I do go on the highway every so often for 15min at a time.

          Actually one more thing, you mention that you prefer 10w-30, however you go on to say that you prefer fully synthetic, the one I got being semi, I assume it wont last as long. The 10w is cheaper than the 5w also, maybe would have been a good compromise

        •  

          @Jackson: In all honesty? I'm a "Car Nut", if someone told me I only had to service one a year, regardless of KM's? I'd be buying the best oil I can, every time.

          Penrite 10Tenths or Motul.

          That fluid has a whole year it needs to do it's job, and if you DON'T do the KM's, that likely means you drive short distances often, meaning more wear.

        •  

          @MasterScythe: I just want to say a big THANK YOU. I learned more in you post above then I knew about oil up to now.
          Diesel oil is the same as petrol! Sneaky SOBs.
          Thank you Sir!

        • +1 vote

          @Quarn: Not the same, backward compatible.

          Diesel oil has higher content of things like Sulfated Ash (a cleaning agent), and usually has a might higher BASE number (like chemistry, Base vs Acid) because while all oils become acidic as they break down, Diesel soot making it into the sump, sure speeds up that process.

          The only thing with Diesel oils are that, if you're a stickler for meeting your cars specification, MOST diesel oils only go to 'SL' (2001) ratings.

          Though there are plenty of "Mixed Fleet" oils, that are 'SN' rated and cheap.

          While I'm not a professional oil chemist, I'm of the strong belief that SL is actually better than SN, while it's older, it allows more Zinc and Phosphorous in the oil.
          And the only down side to that, is that there can be a minor increase in exhaust fumes (Zinc lowers the usefulness of Catalytic converters). More zinc, means more protection to your engine.

          Or so I (And as per their marketing, Penrite) believe.

          I'm no chemist, I'm just a well read car nut who enjoys geeking about cars :)

        •  

          @MasterScythe: i thought Motul only made motorcycle oil,although I have been wondering for years why motorcycle oil is any different if the rating is the same?

          In the valvoline at least at supercheap there is no 10w 30 that is fully synthetic, and it's against my OzBargain not to take advantage of half price! :) so the choice was 5w synthetic or 10w semi-synthetic. In that case hat would your option be? (and sorry to chew your ear off, it this stuff is hard to get answers for without reading buttloads)

          And actually the second car does do some short trips but it's also the car we take on holidays, so most of the kms are probably highway kms because it hardly gets driven otherwise.

        •  

          @Jackson:

          Sorry, I haven't been online since :)

          No, Motul make Oil, there's no such thing as "Motorcycle Oil". Ratings are the same, even 'Car Oil' can be rated for wet clutches like you'd find in dirt bikes.

          The reason motul (and penrite 10tenths) is so popular in bikes (outside of marketing) is that they're both a PAO and Ester (group 4\5) oil. And bikes run HOT. Despite what old cruiser riders will tell you, Mineral is NEVER better.

          And if a car does a lot of short trips, you want the 'first' number as low as possible. Even if it's "below spec"

          Why? There's no such thing as an oil that gets thicker when hot, they're different scales. So, say your car needs a 40W oil when hot.

          Hot: 10-20-30-40-50-60w
          cld: 00-00-00-05-10-20w

          Make sense? So say your car needs a 40W when hot.
          Your oil cap says, say, 10W-40
          a 5W cold oil, is just as thick as a 40W oil is when hot.
          And while engine clearances are bigger when cold, they're not THAT much bigger that its a worry.

          I'll let you make your own decisions on what to run in your vehicle :)

      •  

        Hey Scab

        Was that tongue in cheek or serious? Can't be sure…

        • +4 votes

          Sorry but I don't do tongue.

        •  

          @Scab: Duly noted.

    • +1 vote

      @masterscythe

      I have been using Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40 in my 98 MX5. Is it worth switching to Valvoline Engine Armour for the savings or just wait for the next Penrite sale?

      • +1 vote

        I'd say first off you need to answer the q, what you're using the car for. Spirited safe driving, hoon, or everyday low revs i love my car easy going driving. Then that will answer how much you need quality oil. I go penrite 10w40 because i love my subaru and 'think' it may benefit environment because synthetic but really will go with any of the on sale synths

      •  

        I don't know why your '@' didn't flag me, sorry!

        I think it's false economy. I mean 10Tenths would allow for at LEAST 10'000km oil change intervals, even doing spirited mountain runs.

        Where as I'd still want to do Engine Armour changes at least every 5000km.

        So 2X valvoline cost is probably more expensive than 1X penrite.

        If you're a 'car guy' or just a nerd like me, it's Always worth sending a Used Oil Analysis away, because a lot of time people are using the 'wrong oil for your engine' or changing it FAR too frequently.

        Even at 10'000kms often 10tenths still has most of it's additive package good, and I've seen MANY UOA reports say "try extending to 15'000kms", which is pretty neat.

  •  

    BTW where is the link? I can't find this sale advertised

    edit: I just realised, the store is banned for sockpuppeting, perhaps that's why there's no link?

    • +1 vote

      It's probably also because they're not on sale yet - you can look at the link here, but they're still normal price as of right now.

    •  

      wow really? SCA sockpuppeting?

  •  

    do these engine oils have an expiry dates?

    • +1 vote

      the oil itself should be good for around 4.6 billion years my friend… so just after the earth was a ball of fire starting to cool into black magma! until now!

      The processed motor oil with additives that help it maintain its viscosity and cleaning agents typically, stay stable and have a shelf life of up to five years, once inside an engine that heats up and cools down every day its good for around 12 months

      Google is your friend

    • +1 vote

      Oil companies quote their Shelf life at 4 years.
      Usually its the 'buffer' agents that break down first. So it'll still lubricate, but things like Zinc might attack yellow metals once the buffer chemicals are 'used up'.

      Really though? I don't believe it'd be that short when the additive package isn't seeing any temperature stress… I'd have expected 10+…. eh, not something I really test, I change oil every 5000k in the Track Day WRX, or 7500k in the 'daily' Accord.
      So I only see about 3 months per oil change.

      •  

        i change oil every 15,000km in a 1.8L 2014 i30 port injected vvt Korean nue engine… Its the daily driver and the oil comes out looking almost like new!

        That's got to be one of the most advanced port injected engines ever made.. i dont like the super high insane PSI level intake valve carbon bakers on these direct injected engines. .. :) the savings in fuel and extra power isn't worth it.

        • +2 votes

          i change oil every 15,000km in a 1.8L 2014 i30 port injected vvt Korean nue engineā€¦ Its the daily driver and the oil comes out looking almost like new!

          What oil?
          It's USUALLY not a good sign when Oil is coming out 'clean', engine just simply DON'T run clean. Oils should really start to blacken damn quick in any sort of 'used' engine.

          Perhaps try a high detergent oil, and see if it gets black? Like Shell Helix range?
          Otherwise you're one of the VERY lucky few who have kept maintenance so good your engine is ACTUALLY clean…..

        •  

          @MasterScythe:

          Ive used Shell Helix full syth 5-30 Valvoline 5-30 full syth, Castrol 5-30 full syth and Nulon 5-30 full syth .. all of them had some type of cleaning additive added to them.. they were all the top of the range product in their lineup :) The oil comes out black but if you dip your finger in it and look at your skin the oils are still clear…

          all for around $30 when on half price special lol

          My sisters old Holden the oil comes out like black sludge and when you put your finger in it its like solid carbon black lol

        •  

          @vid_ghost: OK, that makes sense. All good :)

          There are oils out there, such as some of the RoyalPurple range that have 0 cleaning additives, which is A-OK for a single track day.

          But you wouldn't want to use a non-detergent oil for daily driving. Your engine would sludge like no tomorrow.

  • +1 vote

    Valvoline, you know what I mean…

  • +1 vote

    OOOh, also worth note, last time they had a sale that "30% off Seat Covers" worked on Custom Order, once it added to your cart.

    So you can get some Leather or custom fitted covers for CHHHEEEAAAP

    •  

      Well, 30% off at least.

  •  

    My toyota corolla recommends 5-30W. But i uses 10-40W to protect at the cost of fuel efficiency. Is it worth it for old car. How about new cars.

  •  
    • +1 vote

      Looks like this deal has expired:
      *The below form and a scanned photo of your receipt must be uploaded by 11:59pm AEST by Sunday 6th August 2017

      • +1 vote

        Thanks Kopit. I overlooked that.

  •  

    been needing a trolley jack…
    would a 1600kg rated jack work for a 1400kg car? (i know a 2000kg or a 3000kg would work better, but i need a low profile jack that's not $400+)

    •  

      It's probably not something to skimp on when it's stopping your car from dropping. Also yourself if you're nearby when it unexpectesly drops. Same issue for me, I need to upgrade but good slim jacks are pricey.

    •  

      I would always go bigger for jacks and jack stans the 3k ones looks very good for the price
      ToolPRO Low Profile Garage Jack - 3000kg is $261.75
      ToolPRO Low Profile Trolley Jack - 1600kg is 71.22

    • +1 vote

      Yes of course it will work! 1600 kg < 1400 kg

      Not all the weight is on the jack! There is weight on the other wheels.

      Don't forget car stands if you're working under the car. Don't just rely on the jack.

    •  

      Costco occasionally sell a low profile jack for cheap.

    • +2 votes

      would a 1600kg rated jack work for a 1400kg car?

      You may need a longer handle if you intend to raise the whole car at once with the jack, may also take a few goes to get the car to balance soley on the jack.

  •  

    Will this 5W-40 fit my vw golf 2007 fsi petrol automatic? I lost my manual and can't find anything that will say my engine takes 502 or 504 :(

    • +1 vote

      Yes, it should be fine. I bought 3 5w-40 for my 3 series.