Hey all,
I am 18 years old looking to purchase my new car. However I have never been taught on how to purchase a car. I have found the car I want on auction at Pickles and I will pull the trigger on it. I have more than enough for it available in my bank account but I have no clue on how to purchase it. It is over east and I am in Western Australia so I will pay for the car + the freight.
Sorry if it is a dumb question.
Yeah, REVS all clear.
Bought a demo 2017 Subi Outback.
Well, wouldn't be a "demo" if a wholesalers sold it to you, fwiw
@Spackbace:
Yeah I suppose, but the number of km's done by the car I bought was less than the 'demo' one sold by the dealer, but yeah, I get where you're coming from :)
I would suggest that buy a new i30, Corolla or Civic on finance (check the dealer website, the rate is quite low when on promotion.). Then getting another casual job to pay the weekly fees. Once you have the mechanic knowledge, you can go to think about a used hot car.
most importantly, please get comprehensive insurance for the car.
Just do it
The powershift Ford Auto's are known to be defective. Ford has had to replace entire vehicles in some instances. not sure if there was an official recall or not.
Avoid Avoid Avoid an Auto Ford Focus/Fiesta from 2011-2017
Yep Powersh!t
Went through the process bringing a vehicle from Vic to NSW; process will be similar
1) Have car independently inspected (ie RACV or similar) + do a $2 PPSR check to ensure is unencumbered (no debt owing on it that will become your problem). Check rego online to ensure it's valid, not stolen or not a write-off that's been repaired. Check for service history records (and little things like does it come with 1 or 2 keys, how much rego is remaining). Also check recent sales prices for similar models + redbook to be sure you don't pay too much. Auctions typically give no warranty so factor that into your decision.
2) Bid on car and win
3) Pay auctioneer the selling price + reserve fee (usually a percentage of the selling price)
4) As it's interstate, ask the seller to cancel the rego and hand in the plates - they may get a partial refund if there was unexpired rego/CTP on it
5) Arrange + pay for shipping to your address - auctioneer may have a preferred transport company with good rates
6) Upon delivery (may differ by state) you need to go through the full registration process and get a new number plate:
A) Buy CTP insurance online - $300 but could vary hugely
B) Optional but highly recommended at this point - buy comprehensive insurance (or atleast third party property (TPP))
C) You may need to pay for a temporary permit from RMS to drive the car to a workshop as it will have no plates - $50ish
D) Take your car for a blueslip at certain workshops which is a thorough inspection required before you register it in the state for the first time $65
Once you have the CTP + blueslip + sales contract/invoice, go to RMS (if in NSW) and pay for the rego $66 + vehicle tax $300ish + stamp duty 2.8% of sales price + new plate fee $45
7) Enjoy
7) have a lie down after all that effort
8) enjoy
Don't buy your first vehicle at auction.
My Year 200 Honda Civic still in good condition, 18 years old. So, suggest you purchase one second hand very low kilometers Civic, drive until you reach 25 years old, this way, you can avoid pay extreme high price of insurance.
Seriously, Hondas, of this era, just go forever!
EK ?
I can understand buying an interstate vehicle if the vehicle was vintage, rare or super super cheap price, but for one of the most common cars in the world??
Buying an auction car from the other side of the country seems like a terrible idea for a first car purchase. Buy local, and have it inspected. If it’s from a dealer with less than 10 years old and 160,000kms, you get a government-mandated 3mth/5000km warranty to sort out any early issues.
My suggestion is $15k would get you a 2 year old Hyundai or Kia with plenty of factory warranty. Frankly it would get you a brand new Kia Rio.
That model Focus is a disaster because of the gearbox issues mentioned by other posters. My step mum had one new before the issues were known, was in the shop endlessly for the gearbox. Eventually traded it on an i30 that has been faultless for 4 years.
My sister was in the position of buying a new car two years ago, edged her $15k budget up to $18k and got her into a brand new (not a demo) Kia Cerato auto with 7 years warranty, absolutely loves it.
Can’t even understand why you are looking at a banged up auction car from the otherwise of the country in the first place?
https://www.pickles.com.au/cars/item/-/details/CP-06-15--Bui…
I didn't read all the replies, but the first white focus you posted OP does not have a complete service history and is missing the owners manual. There is a link to the condition report on the page, noting this as well as various dents and scratches. Note that even the condition report is just a walk around visual inspection, there are no mechanical inspections at all. For reference, I bought my first 'real' car at Pickles and after looking at 50 odd cars in a day I bought one that ended up having barely any coolant in it (!) When I approached Pickles they said to put coolant in it. Luckily it wasn't the end of the world, though the radiator did eventually fail. This was years ago but little has changed at car auctions. Always inspect in person. Start the car and put in it gear to check how it reponds, even if against the rules. Try the air conditioning and check as many things as possible without driving it.
Have to agree with most here, my partner had a 2008 Corolla when we met. Unbelievable car, fantastic reliability, good on fuel ect.
Kangaroo killed it last year unfortunately and replaced it with a manual golf. Looked at focuses too, but all the research told me to stay well away.
Buy a cheap car locally around 100k kms, insurance will be cheaper and you won't have to be be as concerned about any accidents or marks and scratches from other idiots in car parks. Once you're older and more experienced spend more on a more modern car. My mate had a $1500 20 y/o Honda Civic, it was dropped to the ground and had a decent engine in it, had no major issues for a number of years and was a great car to drive. It pays to buy local and inspect thoroughly of course.
Check the list of all the cars affected from the Takata Airbag Recall, I would avoid all the models listed especally the models with the Alpha Airbags…
https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recalls/compulsory-takata-a…
Why would you avoid them? They've been replaced
If you avoided a car because it had a recall you'd be walking to work 😂
They haven't been replaced, they need to be replaced! But if you want the hassles of having to organize to have the airbags replaced and then wait months for it to happen then go right ahead it's your money I guess, just thought I would mention it…
Well you've deleted your account but anyway… They have been replaced! If you act on the recall notice, the manufacturer will replace them.
And Toyota in particular have made it their mission that they can book you in within a week to have it replaced.
So frankly your comment is a load of BS :)
Lady friend was looking at bringing her low km Hyundai Accent fron NSW to WA. With transport, inspections and re-registering (money, time and effort) meant it was much more economical to sell it and buy another in WA. She was able to upgrade the vehicle; eastern states aren't always cheaper.
Na/nb/nc mx5
Auctions can be great if you know what you are doing. In 2011, I bought a 3 series BMW at auction for about 10K, probably a 4k savings on market price at the time. From memory, I had moved some money across into my credit card account and paid the balance that way, and drove the car home, super easy. Keep in mind that auction houses can charge a buyers premium on top of the auction price. That same car would be worth less than half that amount now - by all means buy a 10k car but know that depreciation is going to rip into it in a short time.
Anyway, I recon you should take a look at this guys videos - https://autoexpert.com.au/ - I think he acts as a buyers agent for new cars - but his videos are a great resource for car buying, and he does awesome reviews.
It's not wise to buy interstate unseen at auction for your first car. Sure you might or might not pick up a bargain, but blonky is right that it is a lot of running around and it is not hard for things to go wrong somewhere in that running around.
Go to your local mechanics, explain you're buying your first car & you'd like them to look at it. Then go to a local licensed dealer, make a choice (hint: boring is good for your first car. Sexy cars are like sexy girls - they only start really costing you as they get older, and unlike girls they aren't worth it). Take it to your mechanic to be checked out before you buy. This will cost you more upfront than buying unseen at auction, but is less risky (risky is for people who have the cash reserves to take risks).
And, yes, insuring it - even just third-party property - is an absolute must.
As a first car, I would like something reliable and not spend my money on repairs (talking from experience here).
Why not get a 2017 KIA Rio with an existing 7 year warranty (warranty ends 2024!). I believe kia also comes with road side assistance with their warranty, providing that you service at their dealership. You can take advantage of their capped price servicing.
https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Kia-Rio-2017/OAG-…
Remember that if you buy a second hand car privately, you can agree (if the owner agrees) to buy subject to a mechanical inspection. Don't hand over a deposit until you receive the mechanical report and are absolutely happy to commit. In WA, RAC WA are trustworthy and do sensible mechanical inspection reports (effectively in the form of a bill of repairs and a chat over the phone). You make an appointment with RAC and ask the seller to take the car there at that time.
I'm a (very nearly almost qualified) mechanic and wouldn't buy from interstate. Apart from not being able to chk it out mechanically. Freight or flights are expensive, there's the pain of paying stamp duty in the State it was sold and different registration requirements for cars once registered in another State.
Unless it was incredibly cheap or a rare classic car you've been dreaming of since childhood and this might be your only opportunity just find something local.
I have bought cool old 1k cars from interstate at online auction and paid freight - but they were worth that or more in parts and if they actually ran when I received them it's a bonus.
i would buy a high yield negatively geared appreciating asset
Sounded like you are a smart kid who knows how to manage money and won’t spent on a car for show off.
Most of us here are people who look for reliable cars and my family has a Corolla. This thing just don’t break!
For your money and continue able to save money for your future, get a Jap car and yes Corolla is the way to go. It will last you for years and servicing plus parts are quite cheap since they are everywhere.
Hello, I was in your position a little over a year ago at 17 in WA buying my first car. Ended up with a 2011 Mazda 3 bought privately. I cannot speak for buying from a dealer, but my private sale experience was fine. Since you're from WA, sign up for a DotDirect account, it allows for transfer of title from one party to another without too much fuss. If you do not have someone mechanically minded to go with you to look over the car, it may be wisest to stick to a dealer, but it's still best to physically inspect the car and avoid buying it sight unseen.
Watch out for other costs that you may/may not expect in buying a car: transferring the car into my name cost $360 (I think based on the value of the car, please correct me if I am wrong), I had to pay for a year's rego straight away, which even for a fairly small car (<1300kg) cost ~$720, and for me, an 18 year old male with no traffic infringement/criminal record/insurance claims in the past 1.5 yrs my insurance premium for third party fire & theft only is about $500 annually. And under no circumstances should you drive the car off the lot without first taking insurance out on it, at the very least 3rd party property.
On the car choice front, I would echo the sentiments expressed above in avoiding 2011-2015 Ford Focus with the "Powershift" transmissions, and really avoid any dual-clutch transmissions. IMO it's too much complexity at the entry-level price point and will give you a lot of headache but YMMV. Newer Focus models (starting with the LZ) switched back to traditional automatics and aren't wrought with these issues. Your best bet will be to buy Japanese/Korean (Seriously, don't discount Hyundai/Kia's built after 2008, they are far different from their cars of old). Average kms would be ~15000/year. Ensure the car has full service history with receipts/log book stamps.
Happy hunting!
I would leave the auctions until you are confident with fixing and inspecting cars yourself. At auctions your buying as is, so you could get into a expensive mistake if your not careful. then you have the complexities of interstate buying. Dunno where the car is, but Im normally careful of cars from QLD. ie lots of floods and large hailstones with the tropical weather. Better to buy privately within your state and get it professionally tested. I first cut my teeth on a $1850 Datsun sports car. Purchased it without RWC and a mate helped me inspect but it did take me 1 month of work to get it on the road. I picked up the workshop manual and learnt it myself. If I had to do it again I would just get a $5000 max car, Japanese or Korean and just get 3rd party. Your probably more likely to get into a bingle within the first 5 years of driving. Actually my first car was the most fun, so cheap that I didnt really care about the dents etc.
How come no one mentioned "falcon on gas?"
Since he is into Fords, Op should be able to get an XR6 for around 15k?
Buy an eco lpi. Case closed.
i always thought auctions are for pros. your mates may be right about the various details of the car but they may not be able to judge whether its worth paying extra $$$ from your perspective and at the time of auction it may get tricky. i'd say consider buying fixed price if you do not have lot of insight yourself. it gives you
* more time to compare other options
* know exactly what you will be getting for that price
* do some background history checks on the car (do not underestimate this)
in terms of choice of vendor, pickles is really good (and highly reliable) when it comes to buying used cars. if you are lucky, you may even get a good deal with fleet vehicles which haven't been used much so don't close options until you finalize your deal. and last but not least as everyone has rightly recommended, toyota is certainly better when it comes to 0 or low maintenance car which is an important factor for used cars. good luck.
would most definitely NOT be buying my first car from an auction. you purchase the car "as is". its a huge risk. the vultures you see at the auctions usually have chop shop connections therefore repairing a car is cheap and easy for them. not so much for private individual buyers.
https://www.news.com.au/technology/innovation/motoring/motor…
For all those who suggest old cars, here is some sobering information about newer v older cars and crash safety. Some might say the chance of having an accident is low, but statistically 18 year old males have a higher chance than the general population.
Op should do what he wants, there is no need to listen to advice from strangers.
In order to take that advice he would need to take advice from a stranger.
Hahaha
I remember not knowing too much about real world cars at a similar age. This search may be useful, adjust as needed.
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/results?area=Stock&vertical…
I think Korean are probably the safest pick, someone above said a used car with a warranty, well Kias have been coming with 7 year warranties for a while, my understanding is that they transfer to subsequent owners so looking at those and a reasonable $10k budget, a 2012+ Kia Rio S (~$9k), 2012+ Kia Cerato Si/Sli/Koup (again ~$9k), seems reasonable. From Hyundai, a 2014+ i20 seems good (~$10k), 2011+ Accent (~$10k),
Other options, Japan has the Honda Civic (~$8k) or Accord Euro (~$11k). From Mazda a 2012+ 2 (~$8k), or 3 (~$10k). Saw 1 2012 Suzuki Swift $8k.
I would avoid German (expensive parts and reliability is mostly a myth), Chinese (unknown quantity), Italian (expensive parts, reliability is questionable), American (cheap in every way). These are all opinions given the budget, and personally would own various German, Italian and American cars myself (Chinese once there's enough variety, maybe).
@OP: I just bought a Toyota Corolla from Pickles here in Brisbane.
I'd say I got an okay deal. Now just gotta get it looked at to see if it wasn't a bad deal.
What did you buy? Did you do a REVS check?