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TP-Link HS110 Wi-Fi Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring $28 + Delivery (Free with Prime / Spend $49) @ Amazon AU


I had been eyeing on this for really long time and its finally priced so well that I couldn't resist buying one!

This is HS110 model so includes energy monitoring as well.

I believe this is the cheapest it has ever been unless you get it price beat at Officeworks.

JB Hi-Fi $49
Officeworks $28 (price dropped, price beat no longer possible)

Update: Price reduced to $27.97 to help true bargainers to have it beaten by Bunnings and Officeworks!

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  • Could this be used on a 2kw panel heater? Manual says 1500 watt heater but in the description it says max ~3600 watt.

    • There are two 'versions' v1 Max is 2400watts and v2 is 3600watts.
      Versions are printed on the box barcode.

    • Standard GPO is 240v 10A which means 2400w.

      Unless your panel heater plugs into a 15A socket (in which case it has bigger pins so won't fit in a regular GPO) then you're all good

      • Hmmm any reason why the manual for the plug says Heater 1500w? Just a bit worried it will overload be a fire hazard? Thanks for the replies all.

        Edit. Panel heater plugs into regular power point.

        • I have the older model. The manual shows examples of what typical appliance’s energy needs are.

        • Many devices draw a lot more power when they start, than when they run.

          This split-second transient power surge can fry some equipment, which is why they mention this max power draw.

          In these cases you can almost always ignore the max power rating, so long as it's just the spli-second start-up power surge.

          Ps. I'm not sure which device you're referring to, so I'm not sure whether the max rating refers to the initial power surge, or a sustained power draw.

    • Would you run the heater panel at full power?

      • I'm not sure as I just set it to 17 or 18 degrees to get the room warmed up. I basically have no idea how much power it's using so was hoping I could use this. If the manual is more of a guide and not actual maximums then I might give it a try.

  • Can also possibly price beat at Bunnings to get it for $25.20 :) Good find!

    • done this, got 4

    • I can confirm this works, although I had to speak with 3 people in Bunnings to get it (cashier called a colleague and then had to go to the information desk. They couldn't believe it was $28 in OW.)
      I showed the $28 on officeworks website. After they confirmed it was indeed the same, they beat the price.

      Receipt: https://ibb.co/VSt5sBd

      • yeah mine had me go through amazon checkout on my phone to prove the final cost incl. shipping despite me telling her its free shipping over $49

        was panicky about it going out of stock while doing this. hate it when that happens. drive there and it literally goes out of stock in the place you want to price match from!

  • Same here waiting for HS110 version for long.Grat price.Thanks OP

  • Can this be operated via homeassistant?

      • Late to the party but yes. I love home assistant. Don’t forget home assistant supports piping the data out to influxDB and you can use a full TICK stack or just grafana to monitor and report on it.

        • thx both. yea I use influxDB and grafana, but moved them out of hass.io due to space constraints on influxdb. I monitor my solar by pumping data to influxdb, graphs using graphana! :)

        • Ooooooo, I have one of these and i love data. Could you recommend any guides to get this going?
          Thanks :)

          • @Justaddgrum: no specific guides mate. it was DIY by hacking all sorts of codes together. I have a sungrow inverter (SGD-5k) and use python (running on my nas) to read the modbus register values from inverter and then pump into influxdb. happy to share these if you are keen - PM me.

    • Careful though. I installed the latest version and all my TP_Link sensors were f**ked. Had to revert to an earlier version. Pain in the arse.

      The forums have a bit of feedback about the issue.

  • Ive also been waiting for a 110 deal for ages. Thanks OP, grabbed 2

  • Got two as well, thanks op

  • Here is a funny joke:

    don't forget to add shipping :)

  • Great price. My only concern is they look like they might not allow for another plug next to them.

  • If you are getting these to save standby power depending on your appliances you're potently using more power with a device like this than without.

    According to Amazon these use 3.68 watts.

    A TV that's turned off needs to draw 0.3 watts or less to comply with EU legislation so if you are only using this on something like a TV and DVD player then you are using more power than you would if you didn't have the switch

    • No flies on me. I'm getting multiple . Plugged into one another. Measure what it draws from the draw from the draw.

    • People are still onto DVD Players?

    • I don't think anyone cares about power saving with this. most TV nowadays are smart enough and you don't want the hassle of cutting power supply would cause more setup trouble than not. It's more of a way to turn the thing off without touching the remote or switch and set timing. Smart home is not about saving energy, the time to recoup setup cost for such ecosystem is well beyond product life cycle

  • +1 vote

    What's this used for primarily?

  • How do these compare to the Belkin Wemo?
    I like that these are physically smaller, but apart from that, any benefit either way?

  • Is this bigger than HS100 ?

    • It's the same size

      • so i think for those who care about physical size (ordered from smallest to biggest): Brilliant -> TP-Link -> Medion (Aldi)

        physical size is important for those who want to use them in the powerboard.

        • Yeah, I use the Brilliant/Genio ones in powerboards due to their size. But there's no compact energy monitoring plugs that are AU compliant unfortunately (that I'm aware of)

          • @Darkscythe:

            energy monitoring plugs

            yeh .. i'm still debating the benefit of having this feature

            • @tempura: Apart from just monitoring power usage, you can also use it to trigger notifications, other activities etc based on power draw. i.e. a washing machine would typically go through a set pattern of power usage when filling, running, rinsing, spinning etc. You can use that data to know (remotely) where in the cycle the washing machine is up to. Same process (albeit different pattern) for most appliances - dishwasher, fridge/freezer, microwave, air conditioner…

              • @Chandler:

                a washing machine would typically go through a set pattern of power usage when filling, running, rinsing, spinning etc
                You can use that data to know (remotely) where in the cycle the washing machine is up to

                ok, but still what would you use that pattern for? say in this case, the washing machine, knowing (remotely) what the cycle is up to, will assist us in what? in IFTTT jargon, if the cycle is in filling, what do you want to do that differs to when it's in rinsing or spinning mode?

                • @tempura:

                  in IFTTT jargon, if the cycle is in filling, what do you want to do that differs to when it's in rinsing or spinning mode?

                  Probably nothing - depends on your use case, which would determine whether you want the HS100 or the HS110.

                  HS110 records energy usage. You could use that data as intended - to monitor energy usage; or to tell a story about what a device is doing (as per my example of the washing machine) - as for what for / why… depends on the user. I was just trying to give some possible scenarios.

                  Going back to the washing machine example, knowing the cycle can flag a few cases:

                  • Machine stopped itself early? fault, check for imbalance, etc
                  • You've put a drip-dry item into the machine? Notify you when the machine is close to spinning so you can stop it early (could also automatically cut the power, although possibly a bad idea…)
                  • Standby power draw vs anything else could give you an indication running vs stopped, although with a washing machine it will quite likely drop to standby levels at several points in the cycle, so you could either use something like Home Assistant to learn the cycle and recognise when it's actually finished, or just wait for a certain amount of time on standby power to determine it is finished.
                  • Learning cycle pattern can also help give a good indication of time remaining

                  Another good scenario is if you have a power board plugged into the HS110. You only get the total power draw, but if you know the individual components typical draw you can then infer which ones are on/off, even though you're only getting the sum.

                • @tempura: Put one on the garage door motor, so you know when it is being used. Then trigger other things.

  • Has anyone succeeded to beat the price in bricks and mortar store?

  • What do you guys use these for?

    • I've got one and use it for our heater in our apartment.

      It's already paid for itself I'd say because in winter we had our heater on one of those old school timers. If we aren't going to be home that night or home late we just turn the heater on maybe 15 mins before we get home.

      Looking at getting another one to monitor our hot water for when we are out of the house (work hours, overnight, going away for weekend)

      Just need to check whether the power of our hot water is compatible to this device.

      • Fair enough, I've got a split cycle so this would be pointless as you need to use the remote to turn it on (although I should check if they have a schedule feature)

        • Check out Sensibo. It's expensive but great !

          • @DJ: Or a Broadlink RM Mini - significantly cheaper, gives you phone control of the AirCon, and if you wanted to make it smarter you can tie it in to home assistant. Have set up 4 of these (myself + family members) and it's simple and works with each AC (from memory all 4 are different brands).

    • Coffee machine (which needs 40 minutes to get up to temperature) - scheduling it on when driving home via Google Assistant in the car, auto on in morning, auto off and night.

      AV Receiver - I use it for PC sound but it's a killer on the power bill if it leave it on all day - so this allows me to Google Home it on when I need it, and automatically turn it off at night if I forget.

      Have another I move around when I need to monitor something.

      • Coffee machine 40 min heat up? wow must be a pro grade one. If I had to wait 40 minutes for a coffee on the weekends I'd end up breaking it hah

      • Is your coffee machine from the 80s’ or 90s’? Most machines now can be ready in few minutes, some instant. I admire your patience.

      • It is about 20 years old, but was still selling new in the same design up until a year or two ago.

        25-30 minutes is a typical warmup time for the $2k+ machines you'll find at a specialist coffee machine store. They rely on massive blocks of brass coming up to temperature to stabilise the brewing temperature throughout the pour. There are faster designs with heating rods in the heads though. The more instant machines are typically thermoblock, more akin to instant water heaters for showers, and have teflon piping to prevent temp. loss.

        You can get it down to about 10 minutes though for a drinkable cup if you're present at the machine and can help it along.

    • I've set up a Homebridge server to integrate it into my HomeKit setup as well as send usage data to additional software that collects energy metrics and stats.

  • price matched OW for two of them. $26.60 each.

  • Thanks OP great time to use the $30 coupon from the WD price error deal

  • https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS110-Monitoring-Required-Ass...

    Why the hell are there so many toasted smart plugs in the customer gallery images? Read a review where some guy called up TP-Link directly and they said never have anything running over 600w continuously plugged into these smart devices or they burn up??

    See images:

    Then there's this comment which is unsettling:
    "I have couple of smart switch and this one is disappointing in terms of energy monitoring, data recorded is very limited, you can only see current power, daily usage and average daily use in last 7/30 days, sometimes some of the data even go missing. I'd rather get 2 HS100 for the price. The xiaomi zigbee one is one of the best in terms of monitoring usage, can actually see data for each days back to a month or something, the only gripe with it is it's only rated for 2200w so will trip out when used in high draw device like dishwasher and washing machine (in water heating mode)."

    Xiaomi one is $17usd, but I guess it doesn't comply with AU standards?

    Can anyone out there compare Xiaomi zigbee plug vs TP-Link-HS110 plug?
    From earlier questions, it is deemed each one of these TP-Link plugs consume about 3.8w/hr so about $4/year in power, so if you had 10 of these around the house that's an extra $40/year in power bills, see https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/7363629/redir . Same author says Zigbee models consume 12x less power on standby at 0.3w so power bill should be less than 33c/year per Xiaomi Zigbee. I guess the Xiaomi ones are better in both monitoring, cost and long term use but not having AU approval is an issue…

    • The Brilliant plugins from Bunnings (https://www.bunnings.com.au/brilliant-smart-wifi-plug-and-us...) are $19.78 and comply with AU standards and are better than these TP-Link plugs. They are cheaper, they have a USB socket, they are slimmer and dont block the plug next to them like the bulky TP link plugins. And the Smart Life/Tuya app is better than the TP-Link Kasa app as it has more functionality and supports way more apps.

      So i'm not sure why these TP-Link plugs deals are so popular. I've never used the Xiaomi plug so i dont know how they perform, i tend to stay away from Xiaomi smart home stuff.

      • The Brilliant version refuses to connect to my wifi. The TP-Link does. The TP link blocks the plug next to it so they’re both still bad products IMO.

        • I'm a member of a number of smart home groups and the Brilliant plugs and Tuya/SmartLife products in general dont have a lot of problems pairing.

          Did you use the Brilliant branded app? If so then try using Smart Life or Tuya app instead.

        • Does your router have a 5GHz mode, and if so does it put out 2 different SSIDs? Most IOT devices only work with the 2.4GHz wifi, so if you're trying to connect it to the 5GHz SSID or if your router combines the 2.4/5 on the same SSID this may be the cause of the issue.

      • +5 votes

        That Brilliant smartplug doesn't appear to monitor energy usage, so it's more equivalent to the TP-Link HS-100 and not this one.

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