6mm 1Mx4.5M (49sqft) Firewall Sound Deadener Car Heat Shield Insulation Deadening Mat | Free Shipping $39 @After7

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• 

  MasterScythe on 20/01/2020 - 11:20

  +18

  Material:PVC + Rubber Foam

  This is not a sound deadener, it's a decoupler for deadening material, and heat reflector.
  You'd need a Butyl or Mastic, or MLV base to make it a deadener.

  Also, all the pictures say COTTON, but the specifications say FOAM.

  Fellow audio nerds: Unless you know what you're doing in the car deadening world, you'll do better with Dyanmat\stinger clones (Even bunnings sells Flashing that is BUTYL based [avoid asphalt])….

  Bargain? This is! so I won't neg it.

  But I'm not upvoting it because I think these 'foams' are misleading to call themselves 'deadeners'.

  • 

    7hours 44min ago on 20/01/2020 - 11:31

    +2

    Master, can you provide some advice about deadening my Ford Ranger? It's a 2012 model and I get heaps of engine noise in the cabin, especially through the driver's footwell. Will start reading up on the Dyanmat/stinger but any more advice would be appreciated as to what the best strategy is. I have to have a podcast hurting my ears it's so loud when on the freeway because it's so hard to hear inside the car!

    • 

      MasterScythe on 20/01/2020 - 11:46

      +32

      Depends how far you're willing to go.
      I'm the king of cheap DIY sound deadening, so I can give a few hints.

      First, the firewall is notoriously hard to sound deaden unless you're willing to take your dashboard out (…. just don't….)

      Dynamat has a lot of myth out there about covering panels and making new floors and junk.
      Reality is that sound comes from strange places, and usually you only need to cover 1/4 to 1/3rd of the panel to kill resonance.

      1st thing to stick some dynamat to, is the metal door skins.
      These often sound like they're coming from the floor, because the skin is low in the vehicle, but they let the most noise in of all panels.

      While you're in the door:
      Pop to bunnings, and get a roll of cheap, closed cell floor underlay (used for wooden floors). And some waterproof duct tape.
      You want to take the thin plastic weather shield off the door, trace it, and replace it with a layer of this underlay.
      You then want to seal all sides of it, with the duct tape.

      Audio nerd flame shield:
      The correct way to do this, is with a mass-loaded substrate that will actually block noise, however, there is no denying how cheap, easy, and effective going from a layer of 0.5mm flappy-plastic, to 1.5mm closed cell foam is behind the door skin.

      With the doors treated, You can move onto the floors.

      Take out all the carpet (not as scary as it sounds)
      Basically, same theory applies here:

      You want to take some dynamat or equivalent, and only bother with 1/4 coverage. The floor doesn't usually respond well to mass-loading, so it's worth trying, but not worth committing huge amounts of cash to; you'll notice SOME improvement.

      Since the carpet is out, this is the oportunity to deaden as far up the firewall as you can reach without removing the dash…. It won't be all that far, but hey, why not.

      Next you'll want to create an actual sound barrier\absorber for your carpet.

      I've tried a few locally available underlay solutions, and the best I've found is designed to reduce footfall and air conditioning rumble in highrise buildings; called Cloud9, by Dunlop.

      https://www.dunlopunderlay.com.au/exclusive-underlay-harveyn…

      The 8mm is MORE than enough.

      You want to create a whole new layer of flooring with this stuff, sealing the joins you make with the waterproof duct tape from before.

      Remember you'll lose 8mm of 'clearance' for the carpet, so it might fit a little weird to start with, but usually it settles down acceptably within a week or two without messing with it.

      Any other questions, let me know.

      • 

        yahoo on 20/01/2020 - 11:52

        +1

        true master!

      • 

        jimmy c on 21/01/2020 - 11:10

        The key to underlay is the cubic weight. Dunlop brand is usually mediocre but better than the crap most store have because most carpet shops sell the cheapest they can get. You can get 150kg underlay in 9-10mm that will kick the dunlop stuff. It is just most stores do not stock it. 75 kg underlay is what I would call very basic. 95 kg is good 120kg - 150kg is great and can last a lifetime in a home.

    • 

      MasterScythe on 20/01/2020 - 11:55

      +7

      Before (or after) my other comment; wherever this falls:

      Probably worth noting;
      If you're running stock speakers, often a speaker upgrade will actually help you hear human voice better than any deadening.
      Don't fall into the trap of buying 'the best' speakers if you plan on staying with a stock audio-system.
      You won't have the output power to run them, they'll sound worse.

      You want to look at the ENTRY LEVEL speakers, the $20~40 range that are rated to 20~40w RMS.

      Pioneer often make the best entry level $30 range speakers 'musically'.
      Sony usually make brighter speakers in the cheap range; which people tend to dislike musically, but could be a godsend for human voice.
      My personal taste leads me to Kenwood, when I need to 'be cheap'.

      Best bet, is to take a podcast with you into a noisy, popular supercheap auto and try the soundboard. see which set overcomes everyone else making noise, the best.

      • 

        7hours 44min ago on 20/01/2020 - 12:12

        This is brilliant.

        1st thing to stick some dynamat to, is the metal door skins.

        Happy to use a Dynamat "clone", what would you recommend? Am I right in thinking the metal door skin is just the inside of the actually metal that makes up the door?

        You want to take the thin plastic weather shield off the door, trace it, and replace it with a layer of this underlay.

        With the closed cell underlay, is this or this what you are talking about? Not sure if I need the silver shielding. Wouldn't the After7 deal here be a competitively priced alternative here?

        You want to take some dynamat or equivalent, and only bother with 1/4 coverage.

        Any tips as to where to focus the coverage?

        You want to create a whole new layer of flooring with this stuff, sealing the joins you make with the waterproof duct tape from before.

        So I put the mass-loading down, then put this down and then put the carpet back? Or do I attach the underlay to the carpet? Sorry if it's a silly question, I'm sure it will be obvious once I rip up the carpet. Why is the sealing of joins important here?
        Is this what you are talking about or do I need the Cloud9 stuff that Harvey Norman seems to be the distributor for?

        If you're running stock speakers, often a speaker upgrade will actually help you hear human voice better than any deadening.

        Never thought about that but for $30 sounds like a good investment since we do long trips regularly. Will keep an eye out for bargains in the near future.

        • 

          MasterScythe on 20/01/2020 - 12:34

          +3

          @7hours 44min ago:

          Happy to use a Dynamat "clone", what would you recommend?

          Stinger Roadkill is available at Autobarn when there's a store wide sale it gets cheap, otherwise it's exxy.
          Anything on ebay that is a BUTYL base, avoid asphalt.

          dbKill is Australian if you can find stock;

          PingJing is VERY popular in 'the scene'.
          https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8M-Butyl-Sound-Deadener-Roll-20-…
          You don't need 8M though :P

          Am I right in thinking the metal door skin is just the inside of the actually metal that makes up the door?

          Correct!

          With the closed cell underlay, is this(bunnings.com.au) or this(bunnings.com.au) what you are talking about? Not sure if I need the silver shielding. Wouldn't the After7 deal here be a competitively priced alternative here?

          You just need thin, closed cell foam. 1m probably isn't wide enough. Also, this 'deal' is quite a thick material so might interfere with the door skin going back on.

          You'll see when you're in store, you're replacing flat plastic sheet, the 2mm stuff will do fine.

          Any tips as to where to focus the coverage?

          Tap the panels with your knuckle, like you're knocking on a door, if it 'rings' or vibrates for longer than the metal around it, that gets deadened. Look for anywhere thats flat, with no creases or welds, they normally resonate most (like door skins!)

          So I put the mass-loading down, then put this down and then put the carpet back?

          Correct!

          silly question, I'm sure it will be obvious once I rip up the carpet. Why is the sealing of joins important here?

          Because sound waves get through tiny gaps. Put on some music (phone will do) outside the car, and close the car door. Quiet, right?
          Now crack the window even 1mm…. SIGNIFICANTLY louder.

          Is this(bunnings.com.au) what you are talking about or do I need the Cloud9 stuff that Harvey Norman seems to be the distributor for?

          Cloud9 was the best I found, and it was very cheap; Yep HN is the only distributor (boo!)
          You can try what you wish for this, I can only advise what I personally had success with; anything that actually has an acoustic rating (like the cloud9 does) is worth a shot.

          If you're running stock speakers, often a speaker upgrade will actually help you hear human voice better than any deadening.

          Worth a shot :)
          Also, make sure the fader on your stereo is at least slightly set to 'Front'. The human body hears TERRIBLY from behind us, and while you might think you 'like it' evenly balanced, it DOES make audio muddy.

          • 

            Wolfy on 20/01/2020 - 13:35

            +1

            @MasterScythe: Fantastic, relevant and useful information above.
            Only additional point is if the Ranger is a 4WD it may well get water inside and thus any of these modifications will need to keep that in mind

            And if the the product listed here is 'cotton' it would be very much prone to mold/smells if it gets wet and thus should be avoided IMHO.

          • 

            7hours 44min ago on 20/01/2020 - 16:15

            @MasterScythe: You are a legend, thanks heaps for taking the time to reply. Next few weekends are now sorted!

            One more question on the butyl deadener, what is a good 1m^2 price in your opinion?

            • 

              7hours 44min ago on 23/01/2020 - 13:26

              @7hours 44min ago: Answering this myself after some research.

              JBHiFi have the Stinger Roadkill Ultimate Kit for $38 ($51 per m2) which is the cheapest I could find for Stinger (Autobarn was $55 with no sale).

              PingJing and Happy Tiger is basically the same thing and is about $32 per m2 on eBay.

              Underdog and Kaladin are the same thing and come in at about $31 per m2 on eBay.

              "Silent Cover" doesn't have any reviews outside eBay and is also about the $31 per m2.

              dbKill is unobtainable.

              I ended up going with Underdog as they were an Australian company and an eBay code got them a bit cheaper; also came with a roller.

      • 

        smurfz on 23/01/2020 - 17:43

        MasterScythe, you have my vote for sharing your expertise. I have no interest in deadening anything (yet), but I commend you sir.

• 

  GaelicAU on 20/01/2020 - 11:21

  Would this be any good to coat internal walls of a man cave? I'm currently using Foilboard (https://www.foilboard.com.au/) and weighing up comparable efficiencies (temperature) vs $$

  • 

    MasterScythe on 20/01/2020 - 11:30

    +1

    It's a foam based decoupler with a reflective foil layer.

    Nothing insulates better than an air-gap, so traditional walls and insulation are probably better; considering how cheap things like pink batts are.

    • 

      dangerdanger on 20/01/2020 - 15:45

      Thanks for all your input, great read

• 

  timmy_tam on 20/01/2020 - 11:37

  been looking at this for a while,
  i have a container i use as a shed, and it crazy hot in summer.

  if this is waterproof, could i just use this to line the outside roof?

  • 

    MasterScythe on 20/01/2020 - 11:57

    +3

    I think you'd be better off bolting in a few inch standoffs, and putting some sheets of galvanized steel on top….

    Nothing insulates like an airgap.

    This stuff WILL work, but just because the material is waterproof, doesn't mean a failed bit of glue won't trap (and rust) water between it, and the roof.

    • 

      willyroo on 20/01/2020 - 16:09

      +1

      Nothing insulates like an airgap.

      Some used solar panels on ebay - I was stunned how much cooler our house was after installing a new PV system. Cheap $/m2 coverage, later on you could connect some (or all) to a 12V inverter and power an Evakool or Waeco fridge… :)

• 

  FloatingPoint on 20/01/2020 - 12:06

  Fire Resistant: Yes

  Without providing fire resistant rating that means nothing.
  It's fire resistant until it catches fire.

  • 

    tonywind on 20/01/2020 - 12:51

    Its fire resistant when kept away from fire.:)

• 

  Will Mcdonald on 20/01/2020 - 20:46

  Got a trojan warning lol. you giving viruses to people?

  • 

    MasterScythe on 22/01/2020 - 23:45

    You have a false positive.

    • 

      Will Mcdonald on 22/01/2020 - 23:49

      Loaded it up on linux, seems to be some dodgy javascript running in the background. Not worth the time reformatting the computer for a bargain/virus.

      • 

        MasterScythe on 23/01/2020 - 19:32

        Care to share the script? Bet its harmless, but happy to look.