![[NSW] Sir Walter Turf (Was $12.50) $5 per Roll (1m²) @ Bunnings (Eastgardens)](https://files.ozbargain.com.au/n/50/597150.jpg?h=71dac47f)
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Lawn Solutions Australia 1sqm Roll Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo Turf
Just saw this as I was leaving. About 200 rolls on clearance for $5 each.
Looks like it’s just at Eastgardens Bunnings.
[NSW] Sir Walter Turf (Was $12.50) $5 per Roll (1m²) @ Bunnings (Eastgardens)
200
Ln00t on 11/01/2021 - 10:16 files.ozbargain.com.au (1333 clicks)
Last edited 11/01/2021 - 11:37 by 1 other user
Last edited 11/01/2021 - 11:37 by 1 other user
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it should still be ok (likely from friday) but will take more time/water/effort and not be instant satisfaction
and bunnings have good warranty if it fails
but id think it should be cheaper again todayNo return/warranty on nursery markdowns
That doesn't sound legal.
@scottySK: It is perfectly legal. They offer free returns on nursery stock for 12 months - i.e. kill a plant and you can return it.
But that luxury does not extend to markdowns, which are made to stock that has to be moved on because its sick/dying from old, rootbound, etc.@jesseboy89: Any product you purchase in Australia comes with warranty. You can't just refuse that warranty because you've priced it cheaper. It's consumer law.
Not true. Get dynamic lifter down underneath, lay it, flood it and roll it in. Deep water three times a day for 3 days then back to once a day. Light fertilise after a month.
Buffalo is hardy stuff and should take no problems.
Source: Greenkeeper
Agree should be able to take, but it can be a pain and take a lot longer. We had new sir walter done 4 weeks ago, and in 2 smaller sections they clearly used older turf. It didn't look that much different at the time, my fault for accepting it, but since then its struggled and become much thinner compared to the rest of the turf. Hopefully it pulls through.
She'll be right mate. Hand water the stressed areas with a hose a couple times a week and nurse her back.
Good time to fertilise the whole lawn now whilst we are still in grow season.
Will be beautiful by the end if Feb. :)
@maxwellish: Thanks mate. I have been doing that with mixed success. Those areas do not get much sun either, which does not help. Very slow going as far as roots setting in those areas. 1 area in particular is very precarious. Gave a dose of powerfeed a few days ago and will follow up seasol every fortnight through summer. Will take the learning's out of this for when we do the front thats for sure!
@Xizor: Im assuming you chose Buffalo due to the lower light. Once you get her up and running you should be fine.
P.s seasol is the bomb. I alternate powerfeed and seasol fortnightly through grow season. Know this, you need a good granular program to coincide with your foliar program. So be sure to fert in Sept and January for best reaults.
@maxwellish: Sure did (darn big trees blocking so much light). Good to hear it seems im on the right track.
@Xizor: I was referring to the trees mate.
But yes. Any dead stuff rough out with a leaf rake and top dress with a bit of sand. This will increase the speed of recovery by a lot.
@maxwellish: Not really unfortunately. Some are fruit trees so can't prune much more than do. The other main factor is a gigantic tree that would need professionals with harnesses etc. It's a gigantic tree no idea what it is, looks sort of like sweet gum but way bigger in every way. Its on neighbours side of the fence, even the lowest branches are well out normal means. It's an absolute nightmare in autumn, will be a raging battle every week to keep the sir walter from being smothered.
@Xizor: Ok. You are a yard man now. Get yourself a good blower. Blow all your leaves into the middle of your lawn and pick up with mower.
A little a lot I say.
Also, your buffalo will really benefit from annual scarifying. Otherwise it can get real spongy and gross.
You can hire them for a small fee on gumtree or kennards etc. Groom it in September every year and give it a fert and a light dress, then set your mow heights for the season. 2 x granulars a year (Sept & Jan) and monthly seasol in grow season. Magic.
@maxwellish: I got the Ozito Jet Blower a little while ago with that in mind. The leaves are huge my hand size and bigger, and loads of them. Mowing over will cause too much mess from what i gathered last autumn when i tried it with the old patchy grass. I think i need to try to move as much of them into the garden/behind back fence (creek) before i mow.
Not sure what scarifying is, related to dethatching? Something im still yet to read up about.
@Xizor: Bingo. Detatch is the essentially the same as scarify. Rips out the old dead matter and promotes your runners for a tighter surface.
You want to get the leaves off your property. Try not to let them build up. Pain in the arse I know, but it sounds like its your cross to bear.
Good luck. PM of you need anymore advice.
@jv: Course it is. Just make sure you wash it in properly. Plant will take it up like a champ and maintain virgor through to winter. Always irrigate late afternoon at dusk.
Once again jv commenting on things he knows nothing about.
I'm trying to understand the logic of this (just asking, not disputing..). Lay the fertiliser for new lawns, water it before laying turf over the ground. Wouldn't the fertiliser just go to waste in the ground underneath, and wash away in run-offs, since new turf wouldn't have taken root yet (won't do so for a while)? This is especially so that we'll be watering lots (2x a day) for new turf, water will just flow through to the ground underneath and wash away the fertiliser deeper into the ground that the new roots will not be able to reach deep down in time?
I can understand fertilising from the top, but can't get my head around fertilising under the turf.
You'd be surprised how much water it take to soak up 20cm of soil, with normal watering most of the time fertiliser won't leech down far.
Dynamic lifter is organic matter and not fertiliser. Both are taken up by the soil and available for the plant.
Getting it directly into the soil is desirable. Once turf is established, the only way to apply fertiliser is over the turf, with the aim of it eventually breakin down through water and being taken up by the soil.
Applying organics under the turf skips the middle man and conditions the soil. As directed above - once roots have taken, fertilise over the top with a balanced fertiliser e.g.. 20.1.12
Bunnings usually discounts their turf late Sunday or Monday mornings. I've bought a few times and always grows fine with a good water.
For anyone else curious, this Bunnings is in NSW.
Thanks. Was already in the middle of editing the deal 😉
How many rolls are required for a 100 Sqm area?
100
…..is this quik mafs?
It’s very valid question. I have seen videos where people lay turf far from each other.
It looks dead…
The brown stuff is dirt, not grass….
It's been sitting there since Friday, and it's a hot week ahead. Brave buyer to prep the ground and lay this stuff.
If it was cooler/wetter weather, it would be worth considering.The problem with this grass is it doesn't spread at all… but it's pretty hardy from the few meters I've bought
The problem with this grass is it doesn't spread at all…
Yes it does… Once it's established.
No it doesn't… I put it in 4 different places … all are established and growing … but there are no runners at all. Been over a year now
I’ve had mine for about 10 years and there are runners everywhere. Sir Walter is self repairing.
if it has been sitting there a few days it won't take… might be cheap fertiliser though