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Eneloop Pro AAA Battery 4 Pk $19.75/$17.78 S&S or Non-Pro $21.95/$19.76 S&S+ Delivery ($0 with Prime / $39 Spend) @ Amazon AU

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Panasonic AAA High-Capacity Ready-To-Use Ni-MH Rechargeable Eneloop Pro Batteries, 4-Pack (BK-4HCCE/4BT)
Now on Back Order and S&S for Pros is expired. Usually dispatched within 1 to 2 months. Subscribe & Save for 4 pk with 10% off is $17.78.

Panasonic AAA Ready-To-Use Ni-MH Rechargeable Eneloop Batteries, 4-Pack (BK-4MCCE/4BA) $21.95 / $19.76 S&S
https://www.amazon.com.au/Panasonic-BK-4MCCE-4BA-Ni-MH-Batte...

4 AAA high capacity 950mAh batteries
Pre-charged using solar power
Outstanding capacity, ideal for high drain devices
Recharge each battery 100's of times
Long shelf life - holds 85% charge after 1 year of storage
Panasonic rechargeable battery for everyday use
Outstanding capacity; ideal for high drain devices
Even after 10 years storage eneloop batteries still hold up to 70 percent charge
Eneloop batteries can be recharged 100's of times saving you money
Well suited to high energy consumption needs such as digital cameras and gaming consoles

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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closed Comments

  • If I choose S&S and cancel before the next delivery, will I lose the saving?

    • +8

      No. Just wait for the order to be shipped and then cancel. One of the options for cancellation is even "I just wanted the initial discount"

      • +9

        Exactly. And I normally set 6 months in case I forget to cancel straight away.

      • +4

        And picking this option doesn't seem to penalise you in any visible way from what I've seen so far.

        • +4

          It's just for them to do a review at a certain interval. If enough people has chosen that reason, they might conclude that it might not be viable anymore to offer SS discount this way since everybody just wanted it the first time. As a result they will stop SS.

      • +1

        I did notice when I attempted to cancel another product, it has the option wrong payment method, taking into account some users want to maximise saving using gift card or other promotional deal. As Jeff once said, customers are always right.

        • It also has the option of "i just wanted the initial saving". I always select that.

      • +2

        Pro tip: cancellation reasons are OPTIONAL.

    • Can S&S only be used and cancelled once, or can be reactivated after previous cancellation? Thanks.

      • +2

        Reactivated is fine.
        But ive personally only reactivated after delivery.

        • +1

          Thank you MasterScythe.

  • +2

    Which charger do people use with these?
    I have never seen a deal of charger posted here.

  • Are these better than the IKEA ones?

    • +1

      Keen to know same

    • +2

      Made in the same factory. Pros have a longer charge but less charge cycles. If you can pick up the ikea ones cheap they're good value.

    • +1

      They are the same as the white ikea ones (old ones on clearance).
      They are better than the new grey ones.

  • Why do the non-pro cost more?

    • +2

      More charge cycles

      • Does any high power device not use rechargeable li-ion batteries anymore? I think I’d much prefer having (supposedly) 4x the charge cycles, with only 20% less capacity. I say supposedly because I’ve never killed an eneloop.

        Recently TGG added made in japan regular eneloops for under $20, perfect for the concierge credits.

        • +3

          Not really. Almost every company would rather sell you 18650 Li-ion batteries in a proprietary box designed not to be compatible with any other brand.

          • +2

            @abb: every camera manufacturer has entered the chat

  • Read on another post someone commented that once you charge a battery with a dumb charger it degrades it. Can someone recommend me a smart charger on Amazon? Don't wanna drop $$ on enelo9ops without making the most of it lol

    The one I'm using now seems to be the white Panasonic one that comes with Eneloops. Should I get this one https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08Q33WSM7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt...?

    • +3

      Nitecore D4 is great.

      • Wow there's a lot of them. Is this one good? Thanks 😊

        https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00KBFZDI8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt...

        • +1

          Yeah, that is perfectly fine. The only difference between the I4 and D4 is the LCD display. Its a slow charging smart charger like the D4 so expect 3 hours for charging 2 AA eneloops. (you want a slow charger for safety reasons and preserve your rechargables)

    • https://banggood.app.link/LhFxfmyRQjb

      Was about $15 when I bought (Liitokala lii 402)

    • +2

      Whoever that someone is, confused NiCD with NiMH.
      'Dumb chargers' are fine with these, they dont suffer memory effect.
      The only exception is if they get burning hot, or are left charging significantly longer than they needed. And those two things are usually related.

      • The one I'm using now looks like the white one that comes with Eneloops. No display but I'm pretty sure it stops charging when it's full because the blue light goes off. Is that a smart charger?

        • No.
          It just has a light monitoring current flow.

          Take the batteries out, within a few hours of the light indicating its full.

    • I have the ISDT C4 Evo - that ticks a lot of boxes and is very easy to use.

    • There's a smart charger version ("smart and quick") of the white Panasonic charger and it comes with four AA Eneloops. Charges in 1.5 hours and has LED display lights that change colour depending on the charge status. Currently sold out at Amazon, but I have it and it works well. https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B077PLTNGK

  • If I placed the order today, then cancel prime membership on the same day, does anyone know if you will be forced to pay the shipping?

    • I suggest to wait for the item to be dispatched first.

    • Why cancel on the same day? The free trial lasts for a month

      • Expire today for me.

        • I would assume you would be charged as per your membership status at the time of the order, that would be your 'contract' time.

        • Fair enough!

        • You are charged by amazon, when an item ships.

          So you'll need to wait for that.

          Otherwise cancel the order, before the prime.

    • You won't be charged for shipping. Even if you cancel right after, you will still have prime membership status for the whole month.

  • Reader of this website for years and first eneloop purchase (always stuck to the IKEA ones). Thanks.

    • +13

      OzBargain achievement unlocked

    • +2

      I was gonna, but Varta from bunnings are $13.50, so i'll stick with my german batteries. 2100mAh.

      Or $14.95 for the 2600mAh varta at jaycar.

      https://www.jaycar.com.au/varta-1-2v-aa-batteries-2600mah-pa...

      I never use other brands if i can help it; varta top every battery test ive seen over the years.

      Germans and e-waste, and false product claims, dont go together well :)

      • Varta has leaked consistently across a number of toys around the house. Really over cleaning it up, don't think I'm getting them again

        • Thats unexpected. I've used their alkalines for more than 10 years in my controllers and mice.

          Upsetting to know their MiMH might not be up to scratch.

          How many charge cycles roughly?

          • +1

            @MasterScythe: Ah sorry I misread that, was referring to the big ass pack of Alkaline ones https://www.bunnings.com.au/varta-aa-alkaline-batteries-30-p...

            Haven't used their rechargeable ones

            • +1

              @twig: Ah ok.

              Perhaps they dislike overdrain? Kids toys will often get slow/dim but still work, well below the 1.2v of a truly dead alkaline.

              Ive been using those in xbox controllers, keyboards and mice (all which include low voltage cutoffs) for…. Honestly 20 years.

              Id use 6 a week on average.

              Never had one leak.

              • @MasterScythe: Not too sure, it's generally kids toys that cause it. Has been fine in clocks and such

                But yeah, I never knew they had a rechargeable variety so might give those a shot!

                • +4

                  @twig: Im a bit of a battery nerd (build my own banks and such from raw wholesale cells).

                  As an educated guess, id say the overdrain thing is likely.

                  Varta consistently get the highest capacity in tests; often trading blows with duracell (energiser never does well).

                  Id say the active portion of the cell is physically a little larger (how else do you obtain capacity?) Meaning more liquid to leak, and potentially thinner seals, to make room.

                  The kids toys will no doubt be fine with the rechargables, since NiMH need 'big seals' to not leak during a recharge, and also will hold a steady 1.2v until depleted, and sharp drop off.

                  Its the only logical reason I can think of for your bad experiences and my 'perfect' ones.

                  If you were curious, you could whack a multimeter on a flat battery from your kids toy, and see if its below 1.2v (or even 1v) if so, thats an overdrain.

                  I dont know why i feel so defensive of a brand im not associated with. I guess its just loyalty when they've treated me so perfectly :)

                  • @MasterScythe: That actually sounds like what's happening. I'll check out a dead battery next time since I have a multimeter on hand.

                    Haha no need to defend knowledge, I'm appreciative of your battery nerdiness because that's something I never would have learned on my own.

                    I would probably be the same if someone wasn't technically correct about something I was into.

            • @twig: I have also had issue with varta long life leaking. Destroyed my magnification glasses and i replaced all wiring as had corroded, plus a remote.
              Had to throw a bunch of loose ones unused as i noticed them leaking in my battery storage case.
              Currently have 2 unopened AAA 24 packs, expiry 2026 on one pack and can see leaking, expiry on the other 2025 and its not looking good with multiple cells leaking..
              Will not touch varta again

              • @wpw: Thats so bizzarre. As I said, I go through about 6 per week, and even have a few packs that are 5+ years old, as I tend to buy in bulk and have had zero issues.

                I wonder what the difference is. Did you take any voltage readings when you noticed them start to fail? (often one leaks and not the other; obviously no point reading a popped cell)

                • @MasterScythe: I know right.. The opened pack was well looked after and i check volts before use. The mag glasses were only stored for couple months with new cells and the light were so dim after storage, Tried other fresh cells and same, then realised the leakage / corrosion and shocked when rest of pack the same.
                  The two unopened packs would be 4+ years. 3/4 of the 2025 pack look gone

                  Did some searching earlier with various others saying similar and some one said AAA were manufactured in china at one stage so may have been around that time. I'll have to check tomorrow.

                  Always a big fan of varta until that happened and i had to fix and clean equipment.

  • Great for use with the Series X controller.
    Much better than the battery pack at only 1400 mAh.

  • Can't see s&s option anymore?

  • Don’t think this question has been asked before on here: how do these compare to IKEA ones?

    Also: any charger recommendations?

    • Also: can I cancel S&S straight away

      • As soon as it ships.

        • +1

          I think everyone else missed the sarcasm haha

    • It has been asked. They're very comparable to the white ikea cells, and are better than the new grey ikea cells.

      • What about chargers?

  • -1
  • Does anyone know if these will be any good for solar lights?

    • +1

      They will, but there's no need to spend that much. The VARTA ones I've listed at bunnings are $13.50, and 2100mAh; and are WAY overkill.

      While stock solar light cells come in a wide range of sizes, most come with 800mAh batteries; the largest 'stock' cell I've seen is 1200mAh.

  • Has anybody heard of EBL batteries on Amazon? $48 gets you 16x AA that are 2800mah. Good?

    • +1

      They become high resistance quite quickly.
      Projectfarm tested them on youtube.
      But they did meet near capacity, and last a year before going 'bad'.

      Soooooo, depends how long you plan to keep them.

      • Thanks mate. I just ordered the ikea ones instead. It’s just for tv remotes and stuff.

  • Taking a chance to consult some battery nerds!

    I have a Duracell Quickcharger (NIMH/NICD)
    (Model CEF 12E / Input 100-240 V AC 50/60Hz, 8W / Output DC 1,6V—-1800mA)
    https://www.obchody24.cz/nabijecka-duracell-quick-charger-ce...

    With this I use Duracell rechargeable batteries - NiMH/1,2V/2050 mAh. Standard charge 205mA for 15h.

    Some of the Duracell batteries wont charge in the charger anymore - it flashes to indicate a problem. Other batteries seem fine.

    Should I buy some eneloops?
    If I buy some eneloops, should I get a new charger too?

    Happy to do so if I will get better performance, but if the difference isn't so much I'll save the e-waste.
    I don't have high-drain devices. More low and medium drain.

    Thanks!

    • +1

      NiMH/1,2V/2050 mAh. Standard charge 205mA for 15h.

      NiMH chargers are more efficient, the faster you charge them. 0.2C for 8 hours is the usual best speed, that's 0.1C; which is fine, but you're using DOUBLE the amperage to charge them, than they're able to put out.

      Some of the Duracell batteries wont charge in the charger anymore - it flashes to indicate a problem. Other batteries seem fine.

      This is high resistance from aged cells; if you had a hobby charger, and a cooling fan, you'd very likely still be able to smash power back into them.

      Should I buy some eneloops?

      I think they're over priced; You'll see the discussion about VARTA above, where some people have had bad experience with Alkaline leaking; but NiMH by design need 'big seals'.

      So while I'm a huge fan of their alkalines too, even if they're not doing well for others, there's no reason that should impact their NiMH quality; which tests show to be very good.

      If I buy some eneloops, should I get a new charger too?

      If you're wanting to 'save the earth' yes. The faster you can charge, the less electricity you waste in NiMH.
      So something like a Liitokala where you could push 500mAh (0.25C) into the cells; assuming they don't get hot, will waste less electricity.

      Happy to do so if I will get better performance, but if the difference isn't so much I'll save the e-waste.
      I don't have high-drain devices. More low and medium drain.

      I mean, when upgrading any electronics you just need to ask yourself "what isn't it doing"; if it's already meeting your needs, then yeah, you're making ewaste.
      If it's not, then you're simply moving to technology that meets your needs.

      • should I get a new charger too?

        If you're wanting to 'save the earth' yes.

        How many times do I need to recharge my TV remote before this tiny efficiency gain makes up for the energy used to build the new charger I didn't really need?

        • I'd need to know what energy plan you're on to be able to calculate that. More details please.

          • @MasterScythe: I'm asking about energy usage, not cost.

            And it wasn't a serious question. The answer is approximately "more cycles than the charger will last for".

            • @abb: So you had me curious and i went on a bit of a rough math journey looking into factories and energy use.

              Considering a 15hr charger uses about 175% of the battery capacity to charge, and these are commonly 2600mAh; means we'll use abour 2Ah more (at 1.5v) per battery.

              Thats about 3W, per battery, or 12W per charger.

              A blow-mould machine once up to temperature uses a few hundred watts, but can blow mould 100+ at a time; so using some napkin math, we could say 5W?

              A wave flow solder station is hard to calculate, since once again, its a steady state heater. If we assume again that its in an insulated room, and already in use, and considering wave soldering takes under 3 seconds for the whole board, we're probably generous saying 1 PCB took 10W.

              The hard part to napkin math is how much it costs to produce the actual components ON the circuit board; so I cant even try. (I could, but im not that dedicated). Shall we say…. 250w, across all the factories?

              Assuming you charge your batteries weekly, at a 1C rate, we at least know that you're using 75% less power to do so: so saving 3Wx4; we'll be generous and round down to 10W.

              So after a year, we have 520W of power saving.

              Id wager thats getting close to, if not more than, the energy used to create the charger.

              Even if you double it, thats still only 2 years and 100ish cycles.

              If it takes more than 1kW of power to make me ONE charger, then no wonder china is having energy problems.

              • +2

                @MasterScythe: You've fallen victim to confusion between power and energy - a common trap!
                Energy is measured in Joules (J) or Watt-hours (Wh).

                And I couldn't quite follow your working there sorry. But it is an interesting question…

                Assuming you're correct that a crappy 15h requires 175% of battery capacity (including mains conversion losses), I get 2.6Ah x 1.75 x 1.5V = 6.825 Wh = 24570 J (per battery per cycle).

                A perfectly efficient charger would take 2.6Ah x 1.5V = 3.9Wh = 14040 J

                (Approximately - you'd have to model the voltage curve for complete accuracy, but we're in the ball-park)

                BTW charging once a week is definitely not in line with my TV remote usage - more like monthly or even quarterly!

                The hard part to napkin math is how much it costs to produce the actual components ON the circuit board

                Right, creating the plastic pellets from oil, trucking them to the injection moulder, extracting the oil that the pellets were made from, and all the marginal usage of factories/refineries/rigs that had to be built to enable that…

                PVC takes apparently 77.2 MJ/kg to create, equivalent to 21Wh/g in your units.

                You could probably get a vague ballpark "embodied energy" for a charger weighing it and multiplying by 50MJ/kg - the table doesn't have all the materials but mostly the main constituents are in that order of magnitude (fibreglass, steel, copper, plastic).

                A Nitecore D4 weights 239g (not including power cable & packaging?), giving a very rough estimate of 12MJ or 3kWh. Not including the copper/pvc power cable, cardboard box, and skipping it to your house from China.

                Comparing that to 7GJ for a PC gives a vague hint that our number is in the realm of possibility, maybe even on the low side!

                12MJ / (24570 - 14040)J = ~1000 battery charge cycles to break even by replacing a terrible charger with a literally perfect one.

                At 4x AAs per month that's 21 years to break even.
                (I use AAAs so it's even longer!)

                TL;DR: Replace your charger only when it fails, you're not reducing pollution by using an efficient AA charger.

      • Some of the Duracell batteries wont charge in the charger anymore - it flashes to indicate a problem. Other batteries >seem fine.

        This is high resistance from aged cells; if you had a hobby charger, and a cooling fan, you'd very likely still be able to >>smash power back into them.

        Do you think that a new charger (like the Liitokala) would restore life to these batteries? That could be a reason to buy a new charger, along with that I think my Duracell one doesn't charge the batteries independently. I've had it for somewhere around 10-15 years. I assume independent charge is better?

        I mean, when upgrading any electronics you just need to ask yourself "what isn't it doing"; if it's already meeting your >needs, then yeah, you're making ewaste.

        Good point! I have devices now that need AAA and I do not have any AAA rechargeables. Rather than alkalines, I prefer to try to 'save the earth' so I think I will pick up some AAA Varta rechargeables from Bunnings as you've suggested. And I'll consider any responses to the above before buying a new charger.

        Thanks MasterScythe!

  • Can I use any charger for this or have to buy the particular one for these batteries?

  • Last year purchased 3 pack of AAAx4 from catch.com.AU was selling at $10.5 per pack

  • A good charger I can recommend is the XTAR VC4
    https://www.amazon.com.au/VC4-Charger-Lithium-ion-Batteries-...

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