The cover photo shows a Voltx battery, but none of the photos in the listing show Voltx
Max 50A discharge / charge
Not sure if this is a great deal, being that it is probably made with older cells and a low-quality bms. But hey, it's cheap.
Updated for ebay plus code. Now even cheaper!
I also bought a 100Ah from these guys 12 months ago, measured it at 106Ah and it has performed faultlessly.
I got 2 in that deal. They took just over 100ah each to charge to 100%, so it seems to be a genuine 120ah
If that the one with the light blue and black branding stickers? If so, i have the same one and its been solid as a rock after 8 months use. Paid about tree tiddy.
Wonder if these can be set up in series or parallel? Doesn't say no but their other cheapies can't be.
From Amazon…
Series Connection: No
Parallel Connection: No
What makes these batteries unable to run in parallel/series - does the BMS cut out when it detects the extra voltage (in parallel)?
The BMS maximum safe voltage is limited by the MOSFETS used.
@Stevesie76: This makes sense for series connections. Was interested in what could make parallel connections an issue?
If they are rated to charge at 50A and someone puts a 100A charger on 2 of them in parallel, then one battery will likely take more than 50A. Same with discharge. This could also result in one battery being more charged than the other, so when charging stop one battery starts charging the other. It can cause the BMS to trip apparently. I suspect if you keep charge and discharge within reason it would be fine.
@MikeKulls: Yeah I guess that makes sense. What if you charged them on 50A (ie less than the rated charging current of one of them)?
Alternatively could charge them separately and join them together (after confirming voltage) but even with a small difference I can imagine there'd be decent size current for a short while each time you do it.
Normally no, since they all have internal battery controllers.
Does it have low temp charging protection?
probably not at this price point
probably doesn't have high temp either
There wouldn't be much of a need for that feature in Australia. Will Prowse always mentions it but there are large parts of the USA which are below 0 for a decent period of time.
Wow so cheap! Already have one battery. Tempted to get another.
Cheap.. has anyone actually purchased one, opened it up and verified it doesnt have tiles and concrete inside to fill the gaps from having a smaller battery inside?
Check 12v lithium forums on facebook for the posts and memes for reference.
Also 50amp max discharge means it has a pissy BMS.. so max 600watt inverter
I got 2 of the 120ah from these guys and the batteries have over 100ah, when I charged them to 100%
My charger shows the total as 246ah for both
Charge amount is greater than capacity but still a good indication
It’s the cost of an AGM battery, stop expecting great things for cheap
I disagree. Great things for cheap is why this website is called OzBargain, not OzYouGetWhatYouPaidFor.
But a lot of cheap deals posted on OzB have been junk too.
Identical battery on Amazon for $349 with good reviews. So $289 seems ok .
If anyone wants to know anything about the guts my battery is completed disassembled.
yes please
bms serial number?
cell serial numbers?
cell wrapping same colour?
reason for pulling it apart?
I pull everything apart. I'll snap some photos and provide a link.
I pull everything apart.
You sound…dangerous.
@andresampras: Mother was a kea, father a gremlin. Here are a few photos and I will consider requests.
https://postimg.cc/gallery/vMSrj46
@makeyouryear: Hmm, 60Ah cells to make 100Ah battery? How? You’d expect 4x 100Ah cells. You sure the pics are of the battery in this post?
@GlobalWorming: Here is the battery I bought, looks same to me but you never know.
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B09MDWTCJR
@GlobalWorming: In this case the math looks more like this:
4s2p so you'd expect 2 x 60 Ah = 120 Ah, or 20% more than the rated capacity.
@Flyerone: They use all sorts. Elron Tusk doesn't believe in them but pouch cell market share is predicted to rise.
@algy: Yep, it's a good sign these cells aren't too worn out if they are in fact second-life EV batteries.
I think i found the manufacturer of the cells (no longer exists on the internet)
http://web.archive.org/web/20181207094606/http://nationalpow…
Is anyone able to translate?
@pipster11: EV- pure electric power
Est since 2011, Beijing National Battery is part of new energy industry strategy blablabla….
In pic :
Category:
LiFePO4
Product name:
60AH single pouch Lithium Battery
Specific Energy ≥ 135mAh/g
Nominal Voltage 3.2V
Cycle Life ≥3,000 , Capacity ≥80%
Ive got a heap of spare Mac book batteries.
How much grunt could I pull out of them if i started joining some up.
Enough to charge a car fridge?
Ebike?
RIP your wife
@umexcuseme: Husband is supportive, he can't discern between my fixing and destroying so I get a pass
cell wrapping same colour?
What does that tell you about the cells?
Not much, but a hellova lot about the buyer's ocd.
Wasn't expecting pouch cells, but with prismatic cells it can mean they're a different batch/source/age/internal resistance
I've liberated four cells for other projects and rejigged the remaining cells into a 12V battery using the same 50A BMS.
I used the existing busbars and PCB albeit trimmed down substantially, this will be the heart of a DIY double conversion UPS.
Double the discharge rate per cell but still under 1C so should be peachy, cell balancing should be more effective now too.
Would be great to see some photos of the assembly inside.
Agree. Do you have a photo of house the pouched are packed in the case?
Would like to know if the cells are prismatic (and their size). Will chuck out the BMS and make a 24v pack :)
At this price, shouldn't worry if it is prismatic cells or not. Also most likely B-grade, instead of A-grade, but that doesn't mean the battery is defective, it should still work fine for a few years.
LOL someone cannot handle the truth.
The ability to go from a 4s2p cell configuration to 8s1p makes this a good cheap battery for creating a 24V pack. Most of the prismatic cell 12V packs I've seen are wired 4s1p. The cells can likely tolerate a fair bit more than the rated 50A draw and combined with a move to 24V the right BMS can increase the discharge rate considerably.
Are we able to run the Kings twin air compressor to air up 4WD tyres?
Think you'd struggle. Max draw is 90A
I wired my Thumper (not twin) to the starter battery. 1min per wheel to go 20-40psi, no issues.
If you are talking about your car cranking battery, then yes it can provide enough current to power the Kings twin air compressor, but you have to let the car engine running and the alternator charging the cranking battery. For this lithium battery which is not connected to the car alternator, it won't have enough current to power the air compressor.
No need to run the engine. Whole airing will take 5 mins, a blip on always charged 70 Ah starting battery capacity.
@GlobalWorming: Just to be on the caution side, should have the car engine running because a lot of alternators on cars now are smart alternators, they don't keep the car batteries fully charged at all time.
@edfoo: Tbh I would do this even on an older car. I haven't had much luck with batteries in the past, so I just wouldn't wanna draw current off it without topping it up. They're really not good at being recovered after a discharge
How long would that run for the recent Rovin 45L Fridge deal posted a few days ago
DC 14.5V, 5A
Can I calculate 12V x 100 Ah / (14.5 x 5A) = 16 hours ?
Will it be easy to charge the battery?
You first need to work out what your fridge will be pulling (amps wise) over 24 hrs at a particular setting.
An amp meter will help with this….
Same question but for the myCOOLMAN 47L.
Folks saying it uses 4-5A/hr running max. So this battery should last a while? Only really need it for long drives as mostly have 240V available at campgrounds etc.
If you have it for drives just use the 12v outlet in the car?
I have the same fridge. A 100ah LiFePo4 battery can run it for 4-5 days. Have had this setup for over a year with a Kmart box.
Thanks muppet. Good to know :)
I have the 30L Rovin with a 115ah AGM and it ran for 3 days with about 30% state of charge left. 4c on eco mode and cool weather.
remember your fridge is not ON 24/7
it cycles on and off depending on temperate and overnight is generally cooler and it doesn't turn on as much
over an entire day (24 hours), a portable fridge consumes about 1A/hr (some more, some less depending on temperate, fridge efficiency, fridge size, how often you open/close the fridge/ whether you have an insulated bag etc.)
so 100Ahr Lithium has 100Ahr you can use, so that would last ~4.167 days if you don't recharge at all.
Did some quick mafs on mine, however… it's a 65L running as a freezer at -15C in ambient temp around 18C. Connected to 240V which is converted internally to 24V so half the amps if were running 12V. Seems I had it set to eco mode so compressor running at only around 33.5W. That said, it's running around 50% duty cycle so looking around 400Wh per day.
If we assume we're not going to go below 20% of rated capacity that leaves us 1024Wh and a run time of just over 2.5 days to maintain -15C. Higher current draw at 12V or a different mode will drain the battery a littler faster but obviously running as a fridge your going to get a longer runtime than that anyway.
I have purchased 4 of these in the past and they are under 80% of their claimed capacity, they are junk. Voltx no problems with any, that brand from outback is rubbish, don't waste your money
Anyone uses it for a trolling motor (on a boat)?
I use the Voltx brand 100ah on a 12v 55LB motorguide xi5. Works a treat.
It will be fine for your trolling motor. Just make sure you have a charger which can charge lithium batteries. Your average 12v charger can't.
I read you need marine grade Lithium for boat
What would be the difference compared using this deal?
Maybe some extreme sealing/ruggedness of the battery case?
'12V 100Ah' - using my old high school physics P=VI that looks like 12V x 100Ah = 1200Wh capacity
don't know but I'm wondering what these are useful for - I can guess lights fer sher and probably a fan in summer
but probably not heating, and not so much cooking unless microwave ?
Mainly to be used in a car/boat/caravan to power a small fridge and some lights usually.
Electric blankets work a treat :-)
12V electric blankets? That's kinda cool.
They're so much more energy efficient than heating a whole room. Although I still don't really feel comfortable with my 10-15 year old 240V one.
I've got 240V ones, run off a small inverter.
Battery set-up was originally intended to run a portable freezer. Turned out, when the nights were cold enough that I felt I needed an electric blanket (sub 8 degrees), the freezer used sufficiently less power to run the electric blankets in addition :-)
@team teri: That makes sense lol. Not sure why it didn't come to mind. Thought you rigged up one of those aftermarket car seat heaters or something.
Definitely far more efficient than heating up the room and the freezer having to work against it. Sounds like a good balance!
Is it possible to charge this with a AGM charger like the redarc bcdc 1240?
No, you need a charger compatible with lithium batteries
Thanks, unfortunately I will stick with AGM for the time being then.
A battery shop had told me AGM chargers should typically charge lithium to about 95% capacity, but i don't have personal experience with it.
you'll most probably get away with the GEL profile
the GEL profile is almost exactly the same as the Lithium profile except GEL has a float charge and Lithium does not. If you don't have GEL you can most probably use the Lead Acid profile if you really have no choice.
Remember if the voltage (in the float state) is below the lithium battery voltage, nothing happens anyway, so it's impossible that can damage your LFP battery.
The main issue is the equalisation charge which increases the voltage above the Lithium charge voltage, but GEL doesn't have an equalisation stage hence why GEL will work just fine.
if you look carefully, the voltages profile for Lithium and GEL they are the same.
the marketing and industry is just getting you to spend money to buy another DCDC charger….
Note: I have 2 LFP lithium batteries that i charge up in a non-lithium UPS but it works fine because the voltages are within the charging tolerance of the lithium battery so its all good.
Also, lithium batteries are smarter than AGM/lead acid/gel because there's the Battery Management System (BMS) which has high voltage/low voltage/high current protection. i.e. it protects the battery by stopping bad things from happening.
I have another UPS where I've built a 3s battery with a cheapo $5 aliexpress BMS that has a maximum voltage of 12.6V and the UPS voltage is like ~13.7V and it's fine too because once it goes above 12.6V the BMS turn the battery off and stops charging.
I have a 15 year old Jayco Expanda caravan with a 120Ah AGM battery in it. Battery is on it's last legs. Am I right to just change it over with this? Any chnages required to the charger or anything?
You have to check that the charger is compatible with lithium batteries
Cant use AGM / car battery charger on Lithium
I bought the Victron IP65 15A from muller energy for $219 which was the best deal I could find at the time I bought.
Victron is good brand but that costs almost as much as this battery :D
read above,
you'll be fine with a GEL charging profile.
Just go compare the voltage between the GEL and lithium profile, they are literally the same except GEL has a float.
Float profile just means the voltage drops to ~13.6V, which is below your Lithium charge voltage of 14.4V meaning nothing happens to the LFP batteries anyways.
Float charging in GEL profile can potential damage lithium battery if you leave the charger connected for long time in Float charging mode.
At the end of the day, lithium battery is an expensive investment, if you care about the longevity of these expensive lithium batteries, get a proper DC-DC charger with lithium charging profile.
If this $289 lithium battery is cheap for you and you don't really care about its longevity, then yes give your non-lithium charger a go.
That's not how electricity works.
If your source is producing 13.6V and your battery is at 14.4V nothing happens.
There is not enough potential voltage to push any current (amp) into the battery.
The issue is more the fact that you should not store lithium battery long term fully charge. The recommendation is to store long term at ~50%
If you got it hooked up to a fridge 24/7, it really doesn't apply to you since you are always cycling your battery.
It applies if you have it in your caravan hooked up to solar and parked there for 6-12m. In this case better to just leave the fridge on or discharge battery to 50% and disconnect it.
Link takes me to 12V 200Ah Lithium Iron Battery LiFePO4 Rechargeable Deep Cycle RV Camping Power?
I keep buying stuff from Outbax, but only safe things. Branded products. Anything that has lots of fakes/mislabelled stock going around is a risk I won't take with them any more.
For example: I had to return a solar panel to them that was clearly mislabelled with a much higher wattage. While they processed my return request without too much hassle, they kept selling the same product instead of taking their supplier to task and returning the whole lot.
Batteries too are high risk items. I fell for a different Ebay seller with top ratings, 120Ah maintenance free AGM. At first it seemed ok, worked as expected. After 1 1/2 years capacity was already much diminished. After less than 3 years it has now completely failed. Upon opening the cover it turned out to be a flooded lead acid battery, that had evaporated a lot of liquid. :-(
if you have a DC welder, you can
pop the caps in the battery, fill up with distilled water to just to top of the plate
then +ve to +ve and -ve to -ve of the DC welder
crank it up to 100-150Amps and boil it for 10-15mins, rest for 5-10mins
repeat the boil 3 times total with the rest in between
then the battery is considered a reconditioned battery and should be back to almost normal (assuming there's no shorted plate inside)
what this does is desulfication of the lead plates (basically get rid of the 'corrosion' like chemical reaction that occurs with the battery acid and lead plates)
![[eBay Plus] 12V 100Ah Lithium LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery $272.22 & Free Delivery to Most Areas @ Outbaxcamping eBay](https://files.ozbargain.com.au/n/92/723192.jpg?h=d1cb7a83)
Bought the 120Ah from this seller on Ebay $330.00 - the battery is still going strong (Outbaxcamping)