Creality Ender 3 V3 SE (Direct Drive, Auto Level) $249 Delivered / C&C / in-Store @ Jaycar


This is a super price on a very capable, entry-level 3D printer. It's the perfect choice for those looking to dive into the world of 3D printing without breaking the bank. I bought at its RRP of $349 and was very happy with it at that price, but at $249 this printer is a steal!

From my experience, it prints quite well out of the box, but like with pretty much all 3D printers, expect that some tinkering will be required.


  • CR-Touch for easy bed levelling
  • Nozzle temperature: up to 260°C
  • Filament compatibility: PLA, PETG, TPU
  • Heated bed: up to 100°C
  • Typical printing speed: 180mm/s
  • Extruder: Sprite direct drive
  • Build volume: 220x220x250mm

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Jaycar Electronics
Jaycar Electronics


  • +4

    Not a bad price to see if you want to commit to 3d printing as a serious hobby.

  • +6

    I bought one in their last sale a couple of months ago for a bit more than this. Completely new to 3D printing but very happy with it so far. Would recommend, and def at this price.

  • +2

    these names are getting ridiculous, I saw they also just released a new all-metal version

    • +5

      The great white turned out exceedingly well

      • +3

        I made sure I oriented all the parts all the same way so the print lines all went the same way. Even if the orientation required more supports in that particular position.

        • +3

          This is why I will always be a 3d printing noob… always more to learn

    • They look great. How tall is that lego man for refernce?

    • What materials are these?

      • +2

        All are PLA. The Velociraptor skull is primed and varnished PLA.

        • Looking good. I will have to try mine over the weekend.

    • Nice! Link to great white STL?

      • +3

        One of the files in the zip file (grey head) has an issue and needed to be taken from another file in the zip.

        • Thanks!

        • Oh yeah do you mean the top part of the head in the PolyScaled_GreatWhite_PrintOriented file has issues, and I need to use the individual stl?

          • +1

            @theguyrules: The "Print orientation" file has the correct grey head. Because I scaled it up I need the files individually, so I had to separate shells in meshmixer for that head part.

    • +1

      Ughhhh my son has been watching some Youtube videos about people 3D Printing certain dragons etc and bugging us to get a printer (… similar to this) now you post these cool designs and my arm is twisting even more!

      • +1

        I have done done an articulated dragon on my old printer.…

        But that one you linked is stunning.

      • +3

        Yeah do it mate
        Ultimate father and son bonding time

        My two boys are only 4 and 3 but they are loving it

        • What do you print for your kids?

          • +4

            @impoze: Probably did like 20 collapsible sword prints back at the start, very easy and relatively quick and they love it… but would get smashed in like 2 sessions if that of sword fights lol. We now browse makerworld together and talk about what they might like and how we can improve the design or what could be done different. Then stuff around with the design in tinkercad.

            Recently did a 10:1 scale Lego like lizard Spock did above. The kids at daycare went nuts seeing a super scale Lego dude rock up for show and tell .

            One of my favourite prints so far I did for them is where I did a moon print and slightly modified it to sit on top of the smart night light in the kids room too, turned out ace.


    • Totally agree this printer has been amazing for the price.

      Really easy compared to what I thought it would be. Auto bed leveling makes it so much simpler.

      Highly recommend setting up OcotoPrint too if you have a spare raspberry pi.

      I have been using eSun PLA+ and it’s been good.

  • Its not really auto-levelling as you have to do the fun bit with a peice of paper and then set the Z-offset.
    Man, I don't miss that.

    • +2

      ikr its like - do you want to print a fun stl , or do you want to spend some hours finding why the stl doesnt print right and has spaghetti-ed for the 69th time in a row

      • +1

        The anxiety I had anytime I set an overnight print. I woke up probably hourly.

        • if the makerworld print has pre-sliced files with reviews im happy to just let it fly overnight by itself.
          if its a custom sliced file by myself you best believe i be watching it every 10 minutes in bambu app lol

          • @Jimothy Wongingtons: Being slightly pedantic here- those files up on Makerworld are not pre-sliced. They are 3mf files which contain a load of print config (e.g. # walls, % infill, layer heights, etc) so in theory you don't need to tweak these yourself.

            Slicing this generates .gcode, which are the instruction files that tell the printer exactly what to do.

            It's commonly accepted to almost never used "pre-sliced" files (i.e. .gcode) as it should not be trusted. gcode can tell the bed heater to run the bed at 150C, or the nozzle at 300C and turn off the fans. The only pre-sliced gcode you should run is what comes default from the specific manufacturer, for the specific model of printer.

      • Buy some stronger springs! I have the Ender 3 V2 and the best purchase I made for it was…

        I don't use the printer much these days, but it's always set up. I turned it on after 6 months of non-use and checked the level and it was still perfect

      • Bit dramatic. I have an original Ender 3 and it's a pain in the ass but still prints perfectly fine 9/10 times.

    • +2

      The V3 SE can auto set the Z-offset as well as doing auto bed levelling. I think it's the original Ender and the v2 that needed manual Z-offset?

      • Oh that's awesome if that's the case. I had the V2 Neo (i think)

    • Only need to do that once unless you change something.

      • +1

        I think I got mine to the point where I didn't have to change it. I did upgrade the springs though.

        • Yeah thats right, if I get a new bed surface I will but otherwise its set and forget.

    • +1

      Quick read says this printer model has a strain-gauge sensor so it can automatically calculate the z-offset.

      • Very useful then, sounds like a great first start

    • +6

      This is incorrect. The V3SE has a bed probe and strain gauge so calibrating is one button and 10 minutes. I only recalibrate if I move the machine.

      • Happy to be corrected!

    • +1


    • +1

      The bed is fixed, (no bed leveling screws,) So since it has the strain gauge sensor + bed mesh, there is definitely no need to fix anything yourself.

  • +6

    Not a bad price, but I think I’ve had my fill of tinkering/fighting with creality thanks to my OG ender 3. I’ve resigned myself to just coughing up for a Bambu P1S.

    • if ur not in a rush maybe u can try and poach a 10% off code via the bambu telegram. gets snapped up in seconds but (i've missed out every time since i posted the deal lol)

    • I went from ender 3 to P1S. The ender was good but the bambu is next level, literally zero touch printing and with amazing quality.

    • +2

      I get what you are saying, but that printer is four times the price of this model. Not even the same ballpark.

  • Great price considering it's got two of the main upgrades you would do off the bat: direct drive extruder + auto bed levelling sensor.

    • I've got the slightly older version. If I understand correctly, the direct drive is mainly for printing with the flexible materials right? Does it hold other benefits?

      • +1

        The retraction distance and pressure advance can be lowered signifcantly, generaly improvements in fine detail are possible due to this, provided its implemented well

    • Doesn’t the SE already have a direct drive extruder?

  • Buying filaments will break the bank if you fall in love with 3d printing.

    • +3
      • jayo sellers have jacked the price.
        the current 10% off code does help a little if you are desperate - kicking myself i didnt buy 20 rolls.

        • Holding out for the next 15-20% sale … hope they haven't bailed out of those ones!

        • Oh what! They just sent me a message with the 10% off code too, bit cheeky.

          $146 for 10 rolls of PLA+ is still awesome tho, much better than the $25 per roll I was paying on Amazon

        • +1

          Ty for that post - I did in fact buy twenty rolls. My lovely wife supports me fantastically, but she struggled a bit when 20kg of plastic turned up at the door haha. I think I was able to convince her it was a deal too good to be missed!

          • +1

            @johnno07: nice mate better to be well stocked and you got it at a great price, like other than the 20% off 10 for 6 deals there is nothing reliable even remotely priced the same for qty 10.

      • Thanks, but for some reason seller doesn't ship to Perth.

        Just got my printer. Any other alternatives?

    • I saw people use stripped plastic bottles as refills on Youtube. Can this printer use the same recycled material to save money?

      • +4

        You'll have to buy the machine that makes the filament and assemble it. Get printing first so you know if you use it enough that making your own filament would be worthwhile.

        • Yeah making filament that meets the tolerances of your printer is a whole new game.

    • +2
      • I have been impressed by the siddament stuff and am a fan… but wallet says bro…it’s JAYO town for you

  • Whats the point of a Direct drive extruder being marketed towards new 3D printing users?
    Seems a bit silly, note this still isnt a plug and play kind of experience
    Good price though

  • Had an original Ender 3. Bed leveling was the worst. I bought a BL Touch and that still never worked properly. Not sure if that's all fixed now.

    • Have you tried mesh bed levelling.

      • Remember trying it ages ago but still didn't work very well. I sold the 3d printer a few years ago though

  • I've got an SV06 Plus which I'm reasonably happy with as a newbie printer but always get the impulse thought of a second small cheap printer to get multiple parts on the go at once lol

  • I've been thinking about printing 3D objects for the board game Gloomhaven, as buying them (on Amazon, eBay, Etsy, etc) costs about the same as this printer!

    Even though I'm ok with tech and can generally grasp the concepts, the comments here kinda scare me as 3D printing sounds really complicated… No idea what any of the jargon means…

    How much effort is required to learn about 3D printing and get going on some small tabletop/board game scale objects? Is this printer good for beginners? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

    • +2

      It's honestly not hard. If you're half decent at using a PC you'll work it out. It is a bit of a trial and error hobby, though. Your prints will get better over time as you gain experience. But you really can only learn through doing it. The more you print, the more you learn and the better you get.

    • Depends what you want to print… first thing is to know the difference between FDM and resin printers… if you want to print minifigures, then resin is generally better quality.. I have the original Ender 3 Pro and print plenty of accesories for board games, but not minis. I paid well over $500 back in the day plus quite a bit on upgrades (springs, metal extruder, ptfe tubing)… and mine does not have any auto levelling… so for $250 to get started even though the quality is probably much the same as the original ender 3s, is a pretty good in my opinion. However it is a hobby, it takes trial and error to learn, plus a cheaper Creality machine you can have quality control issues.. I am not sure how much these are constructed now in the box, but it took me about two hours to "build" mine originally to make sure stuff is set square, tightened but not overtightened, etc.. if this sort of thing sounds ok to you, then you should be fine, but it is not going to make magic prints straight out of the box most likely.

    • Learning resin printing will have about the same difficulty as picking up normal FDM except with the benefit of a lot more toxic fumes.
      Except that bypasses the difficulty of getting small quality prints of a FDM printer. Most people who work with minis use a 0.2mm nozzle at a 0.1mm layer height which is very tiny!
      The smaller you go, the more difficult it is to dial in every single little factor that’ll affect your print quality.
      Which also tend to mean lots of modifications…

    • +3

      This printer is good for beginners mostly as it represents excellent value at the entry level. You're not out of pocket much of you absolutely hate it - honestly you'll nearly break even selling it second hand.

      As for usability - this printer automates away the most tedious step of 3D printing - bed levelling. It's super duper nice to not have to think about this.

      Otherwise there is a bit of a learning curve. The upside is that there is a metric craptonne of learning material out there and almost every question you have will have been asked before. You'll find that the challenge is knowing how to google your exact problem of you don't know the terminology. So a scroll through of something like r/fixmyprint will help you find the names of the various things that can go wrong.

      Biggest upside, and this is obviously personal preference, is that 3D printing is fun as hell! It's so satisfying to take something from the virtual world to the real world - even more so when you get into CAD/modelling software and make your own designs.

      As mentioned above minis are a bit more difficult to print than your average boxy model, and you'll likely want a spend a few dollars buying a narrower nozzle (likely 0.2mm) so you can get finer details at small scales. Overhangs and supports are something that you'll have to learn about as well, but as I've said - this is a bridge than many other people of crossed and documented.

      My vote is strongly for giving it a crack!

    • if the thought of toxic fumes turns you off resin printing, i think there are some decent results to be had with a 0.2 nozzle and fine layer height and slow print speeds, kinda blows out print times though so you would want to tweak settings so you can smash out a handful at least at a time.

  • +1

    Bought this when it was on sale for the same price a couple of months ago. It's been great, auto levelled out of the box and had no issues whatsoever

    • Wasn't it 20 bucks more?

  • +1

    If I buy this and 10 rolls of Jayo PLA filament (as suggested) for my teen’s birthday, is there anything recommended to get him started?

    • +1

      A few tools

      • flush cutters
      • deburring tool
      • +3

        This will come with flush cutters. Deburring tool is very cheap on Ali/Temu

        • +1

          Deburring tool is a great reccomendation, been 3D printing for years, it's such a game changer for removing Brims

    • He’ll probably have some issues calibrating bed level and z height. So silicone spacers, and a pack of cheap 0.4 brass nozzles

      Then for when he fails his first prints and discovers the joy of clogging. Get him a brass wire brush.
      In the end, the ender is still an ender and he’ll spend his first 20hrs calibrating.

      • +1

        Don't need silicon spacers with this printer. There are no adjustment wheels and it auto levels and sets the z offset.

        • -2

          Oh, I was unaware of that… That sounds quite problematic? Just running automated tramming/levelling and relying on bed meshes is a barebones approach to solving the issue.
          It's a solid mounted bed, and if you happen to get a warped bed that's problematic enough…
          Do beginners just pray to jesus that their build surface is perfectly flat? Maybe sand the surface a bit?You'd probably need to add washers to raise the other 3 corners if corner is problematic
          Just rambling, it's good for $249 but seems to be sweeping problems under the rug.

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