This was posted 9 months 3 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

expired Nulon Full Synthetic Long Life Engine Oil - 5W-30, 6 Litre, Now $29.99, Save $35 @ Supercheap Auto


Nulon Full Synthetic Long Life Engine Oil - 5W-30, 6 Litre

Only $29.99 Save $35 @ Supercheap Auto

Related Stores

Supercheap Auto
Supercheap Auto

closed Comments

  • +1 vote

    Store in title, Brosef. Maybe put the regular price in the description below also.

  • +5 votes

    Gonna buy this sucker to add to the 30+ litres of castrol I have in storage.


    would this be ok for a 1999 Honda CRV with 220,000 k's ?


      Should be perfect. That car asks for 5W-30 or 5W-20 - with the hotter weather in Australia and a higher mileage engine, 5W-30 would be the better bet.

    • +1 vote

      Probably best to go for a 10W-40, for a bit more protection. I'd recommend going for something slightly thicker than factory oil with any car that has done over 200,000kms

      • +5 votes

        ^^ this. A 5W30 on an almost 20 year old car sounds a bit thin!


          yea true, theres also some signs of oil around engine head and underneath (only just inherited this car, well overdue for a service) so prob want thicker

        • -1 vote


          Guys its a myth you use thicker oil on aged modern day vehicles.
          You could get away with it on old school V6/8 engines, but not on multicam engines.

          Stick to manufacture recommendation, accept if aftermarket LPG, or other extreme circumstances.

          The addition fuel you consume going thicker viscosity v's topping up here and there , is chalk and cheese.


        • +6 votes

          @rokkz: Going up a single viscosity on engines over 200'000kms is still common practice, and actually makes perfectly logical sense.

          The main things that determine oil viscosity requirements, are main bearing clearances, followed by rod bearing, followed by head oil galleries.

          Galleries will never get bigger, so you never want to jump from say, a recommended SAE20 to a SAE50.
          However, those galleries need X amount of oil pressure to feed oil up into them.

          As bearings wear (and they all do) you significantly increase main bearing clearances, which results in noticeable oil pressure loss in the head, and especially around the final main bearing in your engine (whichever is oiled last).

          As such, increasing one viscosity means the oil film on bearing surfaces 1,2 and 3 remains a little longer, ensuring bearing 4 gets expected oil pressure, and that any feeds to the head, do also.

          Not to mention, since oil pumps have bypass valves on them, and we're a hot country, we can actually normally use anything.
          For example, his CRV uses a K series engine (could be a B series), of which I've built many (of both).

          Manufacturers specs in the manual calls for anywhere from 0w-20 to 20w-50 within our temp range.

          A near identical chart can be found on all Mazda Engines from 90's through to 2010. 0w30 is fine, and so is 20w50 (both fall within manufacturers climate recommendations, right there in the owners manual).

        • +3 votes

          @MasterScythe: one of the best comments I've ever read on the topic here or anywhere. Thanks very much for that!

        • +1 vote

          @Colenso: no problem at all. Glad to be of help :)

        • +1 vote

          @MasterScythe: IMHO based my experience (worked for large USA oil company),

          The only benefit, where higher viscosity oil is used where there is no extreme climatic requirement, or other specific conditions calling for it, is slightly less reduction of oil consumption, less than you think.
          This comes at the expense of much higher fuel consumption and pollution with the high probability in some engines of less lubrication based on the variables of specific viscosity replacements.

          Modern Day vehicles in general have a degree of safety when oil is specified, this does allow for temperature fluctuations (excluding extreme cases) and normal engine wear over the life of the vehicle.

          The only reason viscosity's are so loosely specified is for warranty reasons, and in climates that have temperature extremes within the same country, example Oz sth/east v's nth

          Many dont discuss the current range of fuels that contain detergents, and the effect on oil, synthetic is your friend.

          If the vehicle has been poorly maintained, or is of poor design and as a result has undue-wear, well that's another story and unknown,
          until the engine diagnosed.

          Good local reading-




          Your link makes one fatal error. It takes both cold AND hot up a viscoscity.
          Realistically ANY oil is thick enough cold, 0w is amazing. But its the hot viscoscity where you see changes.

          Basic fluid dynamics applies, if your engine isnt perfect its harder to punch through mud than it is water.

          If all variables remianed the same, thicker is safer, within reason.

          I think the important sentence there is "over the life of the vehicle".

          For example, my mates 1976 Chrystler Galant specifies a straight sae30 oil.

          Yet we run a 20w50; 2 grades higher than advised.

          We tried a 30weight however oil pressure was well sub par.

          Ive seen much more significant changes too on subaru engines.

          Ej series engines have clearances starting at as small as 0.8thou.

          These wear to at least 1, to 1.2thou within 300'000kms without fail.
          Ive stripped down DOZENS of them.

          My K24/k20 engines also notice significant fluctuations as they age thank to the hydraulic tensioner aging (also present in nissan VQ engines), simply going from a 30 to a 40 grade oil minimised this drastically.

          There is a lot of theory and reading on the matter, im well aware, but nothing beats an accurate oil pressure sensor and a few hours of data logging.

          Besides, unless you're looking up cSt ratings when cold and hot, there are plenty of oils where rated oils are only 2% apart from each other.

          Or in Mobils case, have sae50 oils that are thinner than penrites 30. (I know they're getting away with it by testing film strength, and not thickness, but im still dirty as hell that they're able to do that, jerks)

          I maintain that from personal experience tuning and building cars and being obsessed with my oil pressure data logging (along with 'everyday joe's ability to forget to change oil on time) that a SINGLE viscoscity increase when high kms makes sense.


        Would you still recommend 10W-40 for a 2000 Honda Civc that has done 145,000 km's?


          I'm not a mechanic, but I would. 145k for a Honda is nothing.


          I would have thought that would have called for a 5w30? Thats still fairly low k in honda world.

          Penrite hpr5 is a 5w-40 which wouldnt go astray here :)

    • +1 vote

      Yes. Vtech will kick in early yo!


    Is this a true synthetic or just a group III oil?

    • +9 votes

      Group 3. (it might have some 4? I'll try find a VOA)
      However it's a very good group 3 (Moly is your friend).

      If you want true group 4\5 Penrite 10Tenths, or Nulon Racing (metal tins).
      The new Nulon Racing is the best. Absolute BEST in the country.
      Why? Alkylated Naphthalene base stock. From what I can find, the ONLY AN blend in the country.

      Though do remember, oil is just a pressurized fluid layer. Unless you're stressing the engine (and therefore the fluid) to the point of breaking surface tension, then the $20 woolworths oil will do the same job as $200 Royal Purple.

      Good consistantly cheap oil in Australia is the Shell HELIX range.

      I'm a BITOG nerd, so I could ramble on for hours… and bring up countless UAO;s, but I won't.


        great infor, MasterScythe. Thx

        what about castrol magnatec, any good? it has both Semi and Full Synthetic, and supercheap review seems ok…

        btw, you should change your usename to OILNERD, in NERD we trust!


          Magnatec is absolute garbage from what I've read…

        • +1 vote

          Magnatec is to be avoided.

          I've never once seen a good Usel Oil Analysis from them, and if you ever need work done, whatever additive the use turns your metals golden, so it's harder to inspect damage.

          If you need cheap and good, Shell Helix.

          Or REPCO house brand is developed by penrite.
          It's not great, but it's got solid base stocks.


        I've always wondered how this compares to the Castrol Edge? Same price when on sale but Nulon is 6 vs 5 Litres for the Castrol Edge.

        Heard from "experts" - some working in related fields saying much of a muchness for general everyday driving, being the more expensive group 4 oils you can get away with a slightly longer period between oil changes.

        For an everyday car like mine (Toyota Camry) would make jack all difference performance wise.

  • +2 votes

    This is an excellent deal. Thank you foylema for the heads up. I've been waiting for this to come up, as I missed the autobarn sale on this earlier. I will be servicing a Ford Falcon FGII XR6 4.0L petrol, and this meets the Ford Specification Ford WSS M2C 946A. Stocked up now.

  • +2 votes

    I always use Castrol for my Audi , I can't find any European car(Turbo engine) under the list of cars in Nulon website:
    Has anybody used this on a European car?


    Is this good for Holden Captiva?

    • +7 votes

      I don't think it really matters. The Holden Captiva is already on borrowed time. I'd sell it before you need to spend $5k in repairs.


    Good for 99 Hyundai XL? (no jokes)


    I've always used Castrol 5/30 on my 08 Camry. How does this compare and anyone used it?


      It's a Camry, it'll take most oils…but Nulon is a good quality Aussie brand.

      I switch between Penrite, Nulon and Shell depending on what is on special.

  • +1 vote

    Nulon oil guide

    Simply enter your vehicle details and it will show the recommended oil for your vehicle


    Same is being sold for $27.99 at Costco if you have membership.

    Nulon Protect
    Full Synthetic Engine Oil
    and/or 5W-30

    Just realised however the one at costco is at 5lt package.


    Is it OK for 12 Camry and 08 corolla?


      Camrys will take most oils…

      I have a 2011 and switch between Shell HX7 and Castrol Edge.


      A mechanic mate of mine reported getting a Camry in with 80,000ks since its last oil change. The oil was effectively like treacle. Drained, filled with cheapo oil, warmed it, drained it, put some Penrite HPR in - apparently ran fine with reasonable compression…


        Insane.. I always do a service every 15,000km can't believe people run a car with that huge of a gap.


        I've seen a camry do this also. Thick as sludge, but somehow fresh oil, it ran a lot better and engine didn't miss a beat all the way until 180,000kms when it was sold.

    The bigger bargain is this Liqui Moly Engine Oil - 5W-30, 1 Litre - $3 vs $23 at sparesbox

    The only problem is the whole range of Liqui Moly Engine Oil 1 litre seems to be out of stock when I try to order.

    6x $3 is just $18 and even though they do delivery only on this range and have to pay postage it's still an awesome deal - just have to get it to work properly and order some of this oil. I was trying to get $100 worth :) but even smaller quantities dont work on any viscosity :(

    did they run out of stock or is it incorrect price? 5 litres is about $100 in other shops.

    • +1 vote

      I have been trying to purchase that since last week but it always said out of stock.


        yes this item is available for delivery - next screen - this item is not in stock - please remove from the cart :(

        is this site problematic with stock? you either have it in stock or you dont…


          If it is too good to be true…

          So now I am thinking of getting some Motul fluid from eBay with the PUMP20 discount.


    Great Deal just ordered two at my local store and got notification ready for collection have used in the past in a 2013 Holden Cruze 1.4T which has 176,000km still running :)


    Would it suit a Suzuki Swift 2013 GL?


      Yes, I used it in my Swift. Normally I use Caltex Magnetec but at this price for fully synthetic its the way to go. Normally I would go for 10W-40 however, but this is fine too.


    is this ok for an audi a3 1.8T (2001) which has more than 200k mileage?


    Thanks OP, boungt one with free $5 member credit + 2% cashback from cashrewards.



    I jumped the gun a few weeks ago. Purchased 5L of the same oil for $29. Purchased 8 bottles! :D

    Not as great as this deal but still a good deal.


    Would this suit a 2007 Turbo Mazda 3 MPS?

  • -1 vote

    You can check details here.

    .. as the engine gets older (kms done) you need to start looking towards those with little higher grading. For a car that in its early life is on 5w-30 may need 10w-30 after doing first 200K as engine will need more protection.

    • +1 vote

      Umm, possibly go up a grade in the hot ratings not the cold ratings. Going higher in the cold ratings only makes the engine harder to start and perform poorly at first.


        I have 2 cars sitting at home with 150K and that is what Toyota been using 10W-30

        10W would be a little on the thicker side from 5W which would be good for older engines. I am not saying that you should not go for high temp ratings. It is up to what is recommended by the manufacturer and added to the manual.


      Ls1 or alloytec?


    It is the first time I see 6L oil is on sale! I don't think there is much difference between Castrol Edge and Nulon.


    Any idea if this is good stuff for a 09 motorcycle that's done about 40k kms?


    Is this still available anywhere in VIC? I had 2 jugs in my shopping cart but neglected to check out. Now it seems sold out in every area I've looked.


      Okay, found some in Wonthaggi but that's a nearly 200 km round trip so I'll pass. Guess I'm just SOL.

  • Top