Haven't been in the market for a Gaming PC for a long time but thought this seemed like a pretty decent deal for an under $1000 gaming PC.
No OS included
Order total AU $922.04 PULL5
Not sure if MAGIC10 will work as i have already used it but if it works should bring the price down to AU $875.09
Done. My bad
No Wifi included as well?
dont need wifi.
Yeah I dont either. I really prefer to have a 30 metre Ethernet cable running across laundry kitchen and straight into my room. Fast
@fuzor: I think i detect some sarcasm but ethernet is king if you can manage it. We've got a cable that runs across the main hallway, totes worth it to have all the PCs wired.
@fuzor: Why not just use Powerline/HomePlug/Ethernet over Power ? No frequency contention, and pretty fast speeds.
@jonathonsunshine: I wish my parents allowed me, they don't because it won't 'look good' for that once a month guest we have…-_-
@Wibbleman: my best bet would be POE or EOP whatever that shit is which I don't even understand how it works and IF it even works. It's quite expensive and I'm not confident it would make a difference.
Get the OS key from ebay for less than $5
Or use a free os and save $5
For gaming, it's best to use Windows to utilise GPU potential. Official GPU drivers in Windows are free as far as I know.
If you used Linux, premium paid drivers are recommended for better GPU performance.
@kiwn: LOL wtf? Premium paid drivers?
The nvidia proprietary driver is free.
The amdgpu driver is open-source.
Cemu, the wii u emulator, is 30-40% faster on Linux than on Windows for AMD users because the opensource drivers are faster than the Windows drivers.
@idonotknowwhy: The problems go far beyond what you know. Here is a writting partially as to why gamming AAA tittles and doing graphically intensive tasks are problematic still in Linux: https://itvision.altervista.org/why.linux.is.not.ready.for.t…
Consider buying non-free drivers if they are available and compatible with your hardware, DE and distro. You will notice the difference in GPU performace when you needed it most. Then compare that with performance in Windows.
@kiwn: Yeah dude, half those ramblings only affect laptops (This is a desktop deal) and the other half are just him not understanding the computer properly. I don't care if I can't run "corel draw". Still haven't found a link to your super fast drivers for purchase, but sounds like a scam lol. The opensource drivers on linux are the fastest opengl implementation for AMD graphics cards (Cemu users actually installed Linux just to play Zelda in wine), and the Nvidia proprietary driver is on par with the Windows counterpart.
© 2009-2018 Artem S. Tashkinov
Explains why there are so many old, resolved issues referenced there, I guess he doesn't curate this rambling lol.
Also noticed with this one that it has a B360 Motherboard, rather than Z370. I haven't kept up to date recently, so I don't know exactly what this entails, but I know it is worse and probably something that should be taken into consideration. I imagine it wouldn't matter too much for a locked i5-8400, but could help to explain why the price is a bit lower vs the recent Dell and PCByte ebay deals of equivalent PCs for ~$999
This CPU can't utilize all features that the Z370 boards offer, so it would be overkill to use that in this build over a B360.
That CPU can't be overclocked so a Z board would be overkill.
the only feature a z370 adds is overclocking an unlocked processor. Generally because of this they have stronger VRMs as well to handle the increased power to the CPU, otherwise you can generally find all other features and in most cases even more features on a b360 or h370 board.
Yep i tend to go with H series as i dont overclock ….
Don't even think there's a performance difference going to B series compared to H or Z (before overclocking and using same ram settings).
I'm pretty sure the i5 Dell pc wasn't a Z was it? If not then this is definitely a better deal.
The Dell does have a Z370 plus wifi/BT card, KB/mouse, 2400Mhz ram (I'll assume this is the cheapest 2133 there is) and windows at the cost of no 120gb SSD and unknown parts.
I would personally go with the Dell once it makes it's monthly return.
This is really bin PC i wouldn't even bother considering majority of the new CPUS coming out will most likely be running on a z370 board. It'd be hard to upgrade this…. pass
Seems to be a pretty decent deal, a shame they couldn't put a pic of the actual PC
If they don't tell you the brands of what goes into the PC, don't buy it.
A brand can mean the difference between a good machine and one that is cheaply put together for quick margins.
i.e. the difference between a 600W PSU and one that isn't disgustingly OEM can be about 100% of the original price.
Are you trying to say that a good PSU can be double the price an OEM one?
Cause that’s a weird way of saying it
I'm trying to say that a good PSU can be twice the price and twice the reliability.
If you're paying the same price for a PC, you'd want the good parts and not the bad right?
In an analogy: "Buying Sushi from a good restaurant versus a bad restaurant when they both sell for $5, but one uses better fish. Make sure you check for the better fish or you may get sick."
Ideally the cheaper fish equates to a cheaper price. Ideally.
cheaper fish equates to a cheaper price
hmm… sounds like 1 = 1 otherwise it's not call "cheaper"…
But we market the fish by taste/quality and quantity not by reliability…. lol
No I get that, pretty obvious.
Just you explained it weird.
@dlovep: ? what
Something can be made with cheap products and still sold as high as other products not made with cheap products.
Sooo….cheap parts aren't as high quality as non-cheap parts?
Gotcha.
@Lorindor: >Sooo….cheap parts aren't as high quality as non-cheap parts?
If that's all you take away from this, you must not be very bright.
Say I sell a piece of gold for $5 and you sell a piece of fake gold for $5. Do you still think they're the same purchase? It really isn't rocket science here buddy.
Right, so make sure that you're getting what you pay for.
Thanks for your insightful knowledge that is common sense to most of us.
You do not need a premium PSU if you are not overclocking.
You do not need a premium PSU if you are not overclocking.
What.
That makes no sense. We're not talking about capacity.
Thanks for your insightful knowledge that is common sense to most of us.
Clearly not common sense to you, given you had to reply, as did many other people. It is very simple logic, but unfortunately you (and many others) stumble over it, else there would be no posts under mine.
Glad to have taught you.
Oh okay, so the problem is everyone else is too stupid to understand you, and has nothing to do with the poor, convoluted way you attempted to describe it.
@Lorindor: Seems that way. Some shame isn't it.
has nothing to do with the poor, convoluted way you attempted to describe it.
Hard to be an issue when such thing didn't occur. It's okay though, you learnt from your lack of understanding and that's good.
This is the worst analogy i have ever seen, its like a robot was looking at human society but didnt really understand it, they would come up with an analogy like this.
@garetz: Nope. You just don't understand it, that's a shame buddy! You'll learn eventually.
Perhaps what I consider simple may be above everyone else here. That's a shame as well. It's not difficult though, once you actually grasp the basics.
@Diji1: premium psu is always good simply because of efficiency.
Lets say this system uses 300w but uses an unbranded power supply with an efficiency rating of 70%. It will pull around 430w of ac current from your wall socket to produce 300w of dc current for your pc.
Lets say you buy another system instead that has a power supply that is rated at 80 plus platinum, this would be around 90% efficiency. This power supply would only need to draw 333w of ac current from your wall socket to produce the 300w of dc current that you need.
More efficient power suppliers tend to have better components that produce less heat.
The other side of the coin is the 12V rail. Some cheap power supplies will claim 600w but only allow 400w on the 12V rail. Whereas some decent brand power supplies will allow the full 600w on the 12V rail.
A lot of other retailers market their Laptops / PCs similarly. Especially graphics cards, they just say "8GB graphics card" or just say i5 CPU, not even listing the specific model.
I think it's more about marketing to the masses.
It's about marketing, but also about being able to shovel cheaper goods at ubiquitous pricing.
And a reputable 500W PSU might be better than a crappy 600W one.
Yes. You might pay $50 for a 1000W and $50 for a 450W. I wouldn't use the 1000W.
Weight is always a good indicator …means bigger heatsinks caps and coils.
@garage sale: If you're able to physically hold the component, then you're probably past the point of deciding on a purchase.
@Lorindor: I heard that if you hold a car before you buy it there's a good chance you won't be able to drive it very far, let alone do anything for very long :P
And a reputable 500W PSU might be better than a crappy 600W one.
It will be. Which doesn't matter if you are not overclocking. It may cost a small amount more in electrical use.
As someone explained earlier, getting a reputable psu has nothing to do with overclocking.
Most cheapo psu have very unstable current outputs, bad for sensitive electronics.
AND they are nowhere near the rated max wattage. So if your build draws 400w, your "600W or 700w" cheap psu can't supply that.
It'll run perfectly when idle but as soon as you start loading a game the psu will shutdown or burn, would most likely take the motherboard and gpu down with it.
A psu is definitely not a part you'd want to cheap out on.
The PSU market is a minefield.
There's heaps of cheap, absolute garbage "1000w" rated PSU's that would struggle @ about 700w of load that go for about $120.
Then you have the brand name, gold and above 1000w PSU's that are about $300+.
So I agree with the folks here….
No brand name and no rating (Bronze, Gold, Plat etc) means a PSU could be worth next to nothing.
Same goes for most components.
Using cheapest brands for all this gear on PCCG it comes to $1056 without shipping, and without a case/PSU.
so yeah cant go wrong with this deal
Well yeah, you can. But it's all about faith.
There could be refurb parts in here, OEM parts, etc. things that PCCG won't sell.
That's good research though to suggest this is an alright buy.
Well that's great if you decided to only shop at PCCG instead of shopping around at places that are often cheaper eg Amazon, MSY
If anyone is looking for an OS for this kinguin has global keys for under $40 aud.
https://www.kinguin.net/category/22175/windows-10-home-oem-k…
I've used this for multiple builds, very reputable and lots of tutes online on how to install via usb etc.
I got one for $2.50 from a Venezuelan seller on ebay. Seemed pretty dodgy though so I won't recommend others do the same but it worked for me.
Microsfot would probably prefer you just pirated it. At least that way you aren't supporting piracy with money.
Is it a deal actually?
I quickly build mine with OS windows 10 Home edition at Umart.com.au
$925
Not really its mostly a convenience especially for those that don't want to muck about with touching the inner parts of a computer.
I mean you won't save much going the gumtree, eBay, watch staticice, ozbargain for crazy deals way but you could easily save $100-200 if you tried to and waited aggressively but is it worth the stress and effort is up to you.
Same could be said about almost anything really.. are those chips and burger worth the money or should I save money and make it at home using supermarket products and pocket half the profit margins.
With what parts? I just did a dirt cheap no name brand build on Umart and the cheapest I could do this build WITHOUT Windows 10 is 1064. Please note the SSD AND HDD, also the 6GB video card, not the cheaper 3GB version.
amazing price I'd say! Cheers
Not a critique of this deal but does anyone know what's happening with RAM prices? I heard they'll start moving down again soon.
I built my i7 2600k with 16GB in 2011 and it's pretty sad seeing systems come with 8GB but I do understand why. I couldn't imagine going back to 8GB, I'd max that just with my Chrome tabs.
you run like 4gb of chrom tabs ??????
for what ?
i have 16gb in my win 10 pc and don’t even hit 8gb running office with visio and browsers ….. adobe is the only product that takes me past 8gb and that is still with word and excel running.
Games chew up ram fast.
Just saw this one as part of the new code PGADGET deal list:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intel-Core-i5-8400-Max-4GHz-8GB-…
$999.20 delivered
Seems to be more or less the same build, however lists brands (albeit choice from a few) of components and an 800W Gigabyte 80+ certified PSU and DVD burner.
Might be a safer bet in terms of quality components?
It has a gtx 1060 3gb
Picked up this pic a week back but paid $150 extra for a 27" monitor. Going great so far and pulling good fps. When I first saw the price I thought it was too good to be true so I contacted origin to make sure this seller is legit. They are and these PC's come with an origin warranty.
This is a good deal. It’s like if you went to coles and bought some milk for $2, but someone else goes to the milk bar and buys milk for $4. Just using a simple analogy for people who might not be as smart as I am.
What does this even mean!?
It is not what you're doing on the internet, it's the sites you're visiting.
It's not the content, it's just where you have been, so to speak.
Even a 120gb ssd is included WTF
Should probably mention no OS included