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Scheppach 2000 Watt / 210mm Sliding Mitre Saw $149, Saw Stand $79.99 @ ALDI

360

2000W motor
210mm saw blade
Cross-cutting width up to 340mm
Aluminium extension and standard laser provides high visibility for precision cutting
The Scheppach 2000W Sliding Mitre Saw is perfect for cutting various materials such pipes and timber
The standard laser provides the ability to get precise cuts first time, every time!

Saw Stand - https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-buys/special-buys-sat-18-…

  • While stocks last - please note stocks are limited and will vary between stores. Despite our careful planning, we apologise if selected items may sell out on the first day due to unexpected high demand. In the event of unexpected high demand, ALDI Stores reserves the right to limit purchases to reasonable quantities.

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  • You may want to add the price. It is $149

  • +1

    Got this in last sale first one had no damage on the box but when unpacking the main frame was bent it was clearly pack in china bent returned & replaced& does the handyman job ok but you get what you pay for id spend a bit more get something better next time .

    • Do you know if the saw blade is a standard AU size, especially the hole in middle of the blade??
      I tried replacing my GMC mitre saw blade but hole is out by a few mm.
      Maybe time to upgrade.

      • Seem to be a standard size & there are 2 blades in the box .

      • +1

        i bought some irwin blades a while back for GMC circular saw. the blades came with some ring adapters to suit smaller arbor.
        .

        • My GMC is 205mm blade with 20mm bore. Biggest blade I could find (@ bunnings) with 20mm bore was 184mm blade.
          Bigger blades have bigger bore size.

      • +2

        standard size is an interesting term, popular size might be more accurate, have the same problem with blades between my hand circular saws vs drop and sliding. ….. hand saws are popular …e.g 184mm or 7-1/4" ….. the popular size for sliding is in small saws is 190mm 7-1/2" for corded (cordless is 184mm) ….. then it's 210 vs 216 blades …. bore is easily fixed as they give you adapters, but diameter is nuisance for some sliding saw sizes ….. and bunnings limit sizes to saws they sell, tend to keep spare ones from online purchase for sizes bunnings doesn't keep.
        210 vs 216 …. put 210 from bunnings into 216mm drop saw ….. always leaves a 3mm bit of wood that doesn't get cut …..

      • Arbor size.
        Happens often enough with circ saw & grinding wheels, even local store, Bunnings etc.
        Many (most?) come with adaptor rings included.

  • +2

    I believe this one on Amazon is the same if anyone wants to see reviews: https://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B08BPG93B9/ref=cm_c…

    • top review i read is this "This saw was advertised as having a brush less motor a 216 mm blade it actually has brushes and a 210mm blade if I hadn't needed it badly I would have sent it back
      Not a bad saw but I would not recommend it."

  • Reviews look pretty decent. For another $50 you could get a 1800W Ozito at Bunnings though.

    • +1

      Was hoping they'd price match that closer to this sale.

    • Yea that will be Plan B if Aldi's is OOS.

    • Got the Ozito a while ago and pretty happy with it. Only issue is the fence is pretty meh with the high and low parts not being aligned. I just threw out the high part and made an auxilary fence out of plywood that acts as the new fence, as well as a zero clearance insert for the base.

  • -2

    Id honestly say "no deal".

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-1600w-210mm-8-corded-compo…

    At around $40 less, and 90+ reviews, mostly 5 star? This looks like one of those areas where Bunnings takes the win.

    I also doubt any real power difference.

  • +2

    My wife is a hand therapist.
    I'm not allowed to use a mitre saw.

    • +2
    • +2

      I dont have a table saw for the tendency to lop off a finger with the slightest lapse of attention. With one of these though? I would have thought its much harder to get yourself in trouble.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4

      • I've cut my finger on a mitre saw, luckily it didn't go down to the bone but it was pretty painful nonetheless. My finger still feels a bit numb a couple of years later and I have a nice scar to show for it.

        • How did you manage that? Holding a short length close to the blade?

          • @Duff5000: Was in a rush and wasn't thinking properly. There was a piece of wood blocking where I needed to make a cut and I didn't wait for the saw to stop spinning and I didn't put it back up fully so the blade would be covered. Pretty stupid mistake but learned a lesson.

            • @onetwothreefour: Oh, put your hand under while the blade was still spinning down? Ouch.

              I guess that explains the breaks (is that the right words?) that some have. My one slows really quickly to stop the blade when you let go of the button. Only problem is its only maybe 80% of the time. Sometimes it takes around 5 for no apparent reason.

        • -1

          Should have done a safety course off line or one line before operating the machine. Never have your hands close to any rotating blade, try to clamp the timber.

      • I really think this should be pinned to the top. I mean, being bargainers we are impulsed by deals that we don’t really need. So just safety details around some of saws may just inform bargainers what they are going to purchase and have little caution.

        • +1

          IMO a saw like the one in the deal is fairly safe. You are not in the path of the blade, the hand operating it is out of the way above.

          If i ever get a table saw though it would have to be a Sawstop. https://youtu.be/SYLAi4jwXcs?t=137

    • +6

      Mitre saws are probably the safest option tbh. Table saws, bandsaws, circular saws, chainsaws… those guys can all kill you in a flash.

      Maybe recipro saws too, but you would have to have done something to really deserve it.

      • Don't forget Radial Arm Saws. There's a reason you don't see them around anymore, too many got the taste for blood!

        Agree that mitre saws are the safest. Of course those are all different tools best suited to different jobs, but the only way I could imagine someone cutting themselves on the blade of a mitre saw is if they have their hand holding down the work piece way too close to the blade. And if you can't learn to keep your flesh out of the way of sharp tools you really don't have any business to be using them. Being aware of your body/arms/hands, the direction of the cutting action, and the 'safe zone' around the tool is the first thing you need to learn.

        With a mitre saw I'd say you'd be more more likely to get kickback and get injured by having the piece fly back at you. And 9 times of out 10, that would be caused by doing something you shouldn't anyway.

      • IIRC bandsaws are regarded as quite safe. No kickback risk having them always cut down. Worst is probably having the band break but even that isnt too bad.

        Scroll saws are probably the safest. Pretty hard to get in trouble with one of them.

        I'll use a circular pretty often. Chainsaw and Table are on another level though.

    • +3

      my hand needs therapy from all the things i make it do

      • Physical or emotional therapy?

    • +1

      "Who run the world".

      Maybe in 2023 Beyonce, but I know who built the world. Thumbless Gary and his mates.

    • +1

      But it cuts through everything.

      I can give it one thumb up.

    • Is she in charge of all the power tools, or just the mitre saw?

  • +2

    @Richmond Tigers

    • +1

      Looks like the sort of shit where as soon as it hits a piece of wood, the blade will fly off backwards through your abdomen.

  • The belt sander for $50 is worth a mention or a deal on its own. Never seen a belt sander that cheap.
    Bunnings has the xu1 for that price, wonder which is better?

    • +8

      Never seen a belt sander that cheap.

      Bunnings has the xu1 for that price

  • +8

    I bought the same model in the last Aldi sale, I found the overall build quality to be just ok. The blade went blunt very quickly and needed replacing with a better blade (I got a Makita one from total tools).

    The laser is useless and gets clogged with saw dust very quickly. It was also slightly misaligned, simply eying the cut ended up with better results.

    Additionally the older model required 3x LR44 batteries to power the laser, thankfully the newer model doesn't by the looks of things.

    No soft starter, fairly loud motor and poor dust extraction. In saying this, it works well enough and has a lot of adjustment.

    If your budget can stretch I would invest in something better, but for cutting some general timber, floating floor installations and the odd cut this does the job.

    • Great review.

      We have to keep in mind that this equipment is targeted at DIY hacks on a budget. In that case it's fit for purpose.

      • Weekend warrior's like me.
        Cutting fire wood :)

        • I do the same. Can convert small branches into kindling in no time at all.

          • @Muzeeb: Dont have a recip saw?

            • +4

              @Duff5000: Yeah but I've found quicker with a drop saw. Get my son to hold the other end of a 15ft branch, pass and drop through the saw. Cut offs fall into a tub on the back of the carryall. Cut a seasons kindling in a few hours.

              • @Muzeeb: Ah ok. Yeah if you were doing something that big it makes sense. I was picturing cutting 2cm branches with a drop saw.

    • I'd assume the blade(s) aren't great but great to know how they perform otherwise.

  • +1

    Please don't buy a cheap one cutting 45s and outside of 90s are hit and miss blade wobbles and the accuracy is questionable.

    How would i know. Bought a table saw cheap…. timber was ripped to length 8mm out of shape.

    • 8mm? Shouldn't that have been really obvious when making the cut?

      • One side was perfect the as it was ripping the vibrations caused the guide to move and it was a wonky rectangle

        • A blade flexing that much is terrifying, not just "not great".

    • Cheap table saws never end well. Nothing more frustrating than trying to build something when you're table saw can't cut a straight 90 degrees, and every subsequent cut to the same piece just compounds the inaccuracies.

      • It does seem like literally every YouTube woodwork person uses DeWalt or occasionally Sawstop. They get great reviews too. Of course they're several hundred bucks cheaper in the US, though, particularly now.

  • +1

    I guess that’s why we hardly see any ALDI promos here. Quality so bad is not worth mentioning

    • Think they were describing the blades? Not overall unit.
      The blades makes a big difference.

  • +6

    Sliding mitre saws have a much higher chance for inaccuracy by design.
    A standard mitre saw (drop saw) can usually be adjusted to get accurate cuts, cheaper or poor quality drop saws usually just need more regular adjustment to maintain accuracy.
    Sliding mitre saws however are a completely different beast. Because of their design, they can be extremely difficult or impossible to adjust to get or maintain accurate cutting.
    I would say if you are happy with not perfectly square or mitre cuts and/or slightly imperfect straight cuts (due to blade wobble), then this would be fine - some have mentioned "fine for firewood", I suspect this is this saws best use.
    Disclaimer: I have not owned or used this saw, however I have used Makita, ozito and metabo drop saws and sliding mitre saws. Even Makita sliding mitre saws can be problematic to maintain accuracy compared to plain drop saws.
    Just thought I'd share my experiences… Hope it helps someone.

    • +1

      I've been using my Ozito sliding saw for a while, I wouldn't use it for furniture making but cutting timber which doesn't need mm precision it does the job well.

      • Yeah I bought a 2nd hand GMC ages ago to do a deck. Its fine for that sort of thing, getting exact 45s especially if you need to use the slide as well is much more difficult. With a test cut and adjustment its ok for door frame trim but only because i am painting so can fill any inaccuracy pretty easy.

    • Very good advice, thank you.

  • Got this last time, nice saw to use, definitely seems better than the cheap Bunnings offering from Ozito.

  • I have had one of these for over 15 years, bought from Masters (who sadly didn't last long) and was sold under one of their home brands. The only reason I haven't replaced it is because I got a DeWalt table saw and really only use the mitre saw now for quick rough cross cuts when the tablesaw is packed away.

    It may be dirt cheap, but you're getting what you pay for. It's definitely worth forking out even a little bit more for something better. And if you want something that will cut accurately for furniture work, etc, save up and buy one of the big brands (Bosch, DeWalt, Makita, or Festool if you're made of money).

  • I still use my 20 year old Ozito sliding saw lol

    Probably should buy a good one next time….

    Especially when you can get this https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-2000w-254mm-dual-bevel-sli… for a little more

  • +1

    Looks like bunnies not price matching this time around

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