This was posted 1 year 16 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Lekker Amsterdam 8 Speed Bicycle $1,098 (Was $1,698) Delivered @ Lekker Bikes

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I had been pondering this bike for a while over the Xmas sale while it was $1298 on sale. It seems a further discount is now available on the 8 speed, so it is now only $100 more than the 3 speed.

Seems a competitive price for a bike with belt drive, internal gear system, disc brakes. Most bikes with these features are upwards of $1500 from what I've seen.

*cashrewards also available for an extra 3.5% off currently

From the website:

Sleek, sporty and stylish, this is the bike to be seen on as you cycle through the city (or escape it). Lightweight, low-maintenance and comfortable, it looks and rides great. Sure it’s got a stepover frame but this is a unisex bicycle. Not a unicycle.

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  • +9

    Lekker shuuuu cuz

  • interesting seeing a belt drive bike, I guess it's possible to add a motor later on

    • +2

      If you wanted to keep the 8-speed internal gear hub in the back wheel, you'd have to do a mid-drive conversion like a bafang BBS02. No such thing as a derailleur for a belt, so if you want a hub drive motor, you're stuck on single speed.

      • May not withstand the high torque with the bbs02. the gear hub is expensive to replace if it does not work well.

        • +4

          Fair point, BBS01 (80Nm) might be a better match. I have a bike with a shimano e6000 (50Nm), belt drive and alfine-8. More than enough torque for everything I do with it. And the rear hub handles it well.

          In the end, the rear hubs need to be built strong enough to take the torque of someone standing up on the pedals. If a 100kg person put all their weight on a 175mm length crank, they're generating 172Nm of torque at the bottom bracket. So a lighter person, plus the boost of a motor is probaby still within the reasonable limits of an internal gear hub.

      • +1

        ah I saw they had an eBike version of the same bike and thought it was just modded

        https://lekkerbikes.com.au/products/amsterdam-plus-ebike

        completely different frame though

        • If you wanted to convert it later you could go for a front hub motor like the lekker X ebike.

          Maybe they could sell you a kit?

        • That version has only one gear though. Which is OK for an e-bike in the city. Until your battery runs out.
          8-speed rear hub plus electric front hub would be nicer.

      • +4

        You can have a motor on the front. They are generally weaker but are sufficient if all you want is pedal assist.

      • +1

        Or use a front wheel drive. Not as good as a hub drive but will do the job, and very easy to install.

    • +1

      Why bother? They've already got an ebike version: https://lekkerbikes.com.au/products/amsterdam-plus-ebike

      • +1

        The link is a single gear bike.

        • +5

          Melbourne gear ratio.

      • The people in the picture look like their having a lot of fun on their ebikes and without helmets.
        The one without the motor, the people look cool/stylish standing next to their bike.
        These bikes are not for me.

      • I reckon that $1,500 extra could go towards some pretty mean DIY ebike mods instead

        • But for someone who has no experience in DIY and risk blowing up the battery at home?

    • if you want electric buy from day one ….. it will be designed for electric and probably cheaper and better than a frankenbike.

  • +2

    I have a lekker and it’s awesome. It’s been absolutely flawless to rise and it’s actually big enough for me to ride at almost 200cm.

  • Doesn't look like a stepover to me.

  • +2

    Nice price. Been using an 8-speed belt drive for many years. Absolutely bulletproof and silent.

    • +3

      I've got the same setup. I love it, though mine's not silent anymore:
      - each crank it clicks. annoying but not the end of the world.
      - in hot weather it squeaks a lot. very annoying as I love the silence. only does it in the heat… there is some sort of lubricant from Gates or Rohloff, though I've not got around to sorting it out yet.

      /endlifestory.

      • Clicking coming from the hub or the bottom bracket?

        • +1

          Yep, sounds like you just need a new bottom bracket bearing - depending on type maybe even just a repack. If its not coming from the bottom bracket its a pedal, which is very cheap and easy to replace.

          Don't neglect it, though, because it will get worse.

        • Pretty sure it’s the bottom bracket.

      • +1

        If it is your belt squeaking, a little silicon lube will sort it.

    • A Lekker or other?

      • Different - Focus Planet.

  • +9

    Dang something I suddenly need just popped up, again.

    • The power of OzBargain.

  • +1

    Lekker soos n krekker!

  • +2

    Is 13kg a bit heavy for a bike in this price range?

    • yes and no, it's not always about the price, more so bike designed purpose. This seems okay.

      My 21" frame flatbar urban with 700c wheels, Fuji Absolute 2.0 is 11 or 12kg, so this bike isn't that bad at all.

    • +1

      Yes, but people pay for the belt drive.

      I personally would rather get an entry level Marin or Polygon flat bar hybrid/commuter bike that will be lighter than this.

    • +2

      gear hubs are heavier than derailleur, and with the fenders, racks and what not, it all adds up.

      This is a commuter not a roadie.

      • Plenty non-roadie/commuter such as gravel entry level bikes can be lighter and still very versatile with derailleurs.

        • +2

          Yes with derailleurs, a Nexus 8 speed hub is 1.7 kg by itself

          https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-c6000…

          If you go with 1x something, the rear derailleur is couple hundred grams tops. So you already are 1.5 kg or so extra with hubs.

          Personally, I would prefer a heavier frame with thicker wall thicknesses. The couple extra kgs on the bike is absolutely meaningless when you start factoring all the stuff you will be commuting with, if not all the shopping that you do on the way home. I can easily do a 10kg shop, and with 95 kgs on me, plus the racks, panniers and what not the bike weight is irrelevant.

          • @annarchon: Yeah understood but there are many factors other than weight itself… Components also affect how easy it is to pedal the bike… I've experienced many different class of Shimano MTB/Road groupsets and wheel/tyres combination.

            Im not slim but i experienced a lot difference from a 2020 8.1kg bike vs a 2014 6.7kg bike.

            I definitely enjoyed upgrading my commuting bike from a 14kg Shimano acera/alivio to a 10kg Shimano GRX regardless the load i have on the bike.

            • +2

              @meong: For most people it's a better option to lose a few kgs from their guts than to strip their bike down.

              • +1

                @trevor99: Definitely, i have a lot to lose. But there is a certain weight range of the bike that makes a lot of difference. If you go lighter there is a diminishing return in which you would rather be gaining more speed by training your legs or losing your bodyweight.

                But 10kg vs 13kg definitely makes a lot fo difference. The polygon path x4 is only $1400 atm and can be much more versatile than this Lekker bike.

                It also depends on where you ride. Riding my 6.7kg 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 with 25mm tyres on Moonee Ponds Creek bike path only got me an average of 24km/h which is the same when i used to ride my 14kg 2016 Giant Toughroad 29ers.

                The Trek Madone obviously wins riding on Beach Rd.

                • +1

                  @meong: That's because you are comparing a road bike vs a mountain bike, and presumably a mountain bike with tyres significantly larger than 25mm. The rolling resistance would be dramatically different.

                  • @annarchon: Thats obvious.

                    I was merely pointing out there are many factors.

                    Which is why i would rather get a gravel bike for commuting due to the tyre clearance for navigating the cracked pavements/tarmac on bike paths.

          • @annarchon: Most bikes with a hub + belt drive seem to end up only around half a key heavier. While there's no doubt the hub is heavy, there's also less weight and total parts elsewhere. This is a decent trade-off IMO; it's the odd dear ratios on this hub that give me pause.

  • And…. It's out of stock. Too late to the party

    • Looks to me like all sizes of the black 8 speed are still/back in stock if you want one.

  • can this bike handle dirt/gravel road?

    • +1

      Yes - but not as a 'performance' gravel bike. If you just want a comfy bike to cruise on gravel, you could do it on this. If you want to go fast or push limits tho, look elsewhere.

      • +1

        that is good enough for me thanks

  • +4

    I don’t understand how is $1000 for an 8 speed drive train aluminium frame bike is a bargain? Is belt that much better than chain?

    • +7

      For a zero regular maintenance commuter, belt drive+IGH is absolutely fantastic. I would never go back to a chain for my everyday all-weather bike.

      • having enjoyed many decades riding with chain and typical derailleurs, I agree and think belt+IGH will me my next and hopefully last everyday ride.

        The near 0 regular maintenance and reliability will be most welcomed. I don't care that there is a little loss over a chain drive, am only somewhat concerned over the strength (torque) rating as I am a heavy set guy with leg power to boot.

        • Just wondering how easy it is to change punctured tube for rear wheel during morning commute to the work? Any special tools required?

          • @Michael1983: Tyre levers to unseat the tyre, a puncture repair kit, and a mini bike pump.

            A spare tube might be handy if you can't be bothered trying to find the puncture.

            • @brotherfranciz: Yes that is what I'm worried about. Normally I have a spare tubes with me, just a quick inspection of inner part of tyre to check that the piercing object is still not stuck in the tyre, then put a new tube. Patching tube later at home, as with work commute there is too much of a time pressure.

      • +2

        I've not ridden a belt drive but for someone commuting 50km per day 3 days a week I've worked out I need to do regular clean of the drivetrain every 3-4 weeks in order to keep it running smoothly.

        Zero maintenance is seriously a massive plus if you're already struggling for motivation.

        • I believe you do lose a fair bit of drivetrain efficiency for the privilege, however.

          • +2

            @eraser215: True, a well maintained chain beats a belt in efficiency. But a belt beats an unmaintained chain in efficiency, and that's the state of most chains on irregularly used bikes not used for sport.

          • @eraser215: As in you need to peddle harder to achieve high speeds?

        • +2

          moving to a wax based lube significantly reduces drive chain maintenance.

          You do need to strip your chain of existing lube (including new chains that come with factory applied lube) but after that the only maintenance is just reapplying wax. No more degreasing and reapplying lube. Performs better and lower maintenance. Total game changer.

          I use Squirt. Worth reading a few reviews if curious.

          https://www.squirtcyclingproducts.com

          • +1

            @huggsymersh: Squirt wax lube is awesome. I just recently fitted a fresh 10 speed chain to my daily commuter. Hadn't thought of stripping back the factory provided lube before my first application of squirt. Might have to try that out.

            • +1

              @jasejase: My understanding is that the wax needs bare metal to adhere, and if you don't take that factory lube off it won't stick properly.

              But that's best practice. And advisable. BUT! Over time I suspect the factory lube will eventually wear off and the wax will adhere better and better.

              Anyway, I love wax and I can't believe I spent so many years degreasing a chain and then lubing it, again and again etc when a much better and easier alternative exists.

    • Are there even any alternatives? I thought these things are really rare

      • +1

        Some have left the local market without replacement, e.g. the Norco Indie Afline, Priority Bikes Classic. Others haven't entered it (Treks belt series, ) and others have left globally (IKEA had a 2 speed one but they got recalled).

        I think they kind of got eclipsed by ebikes in a way.

        https://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2019/indie-igh-8-alfine-…

    • +1

      I'm no bike expert but I've got a Focus 8 speed belt drive bike and would never go back to a chain. Love it.

    • Yes, no chain to lube, the belt and hub will last for many tens of thousands of KM's. (I have a 11 speed with gates, have done over 40,000 KM's in 10 years)

      No chain muck, never rusts, the list goes on. Only thing it will consume are brake pads and tyres if you are riding enough KM's

    • +8

      You've got to focus on the use-case, rather than looking at it as the sum of its parts. The Lekker is a sensational bike for a durable, comfortable, well-built bike designed to carry some stuff around as a CBD or inner suburbs commuter. Its really unrivalled for that.

      But if you just want an '8-speed alu framed bike', you'll get one for cheaper.

  • looks quite nice actually but the e bike version is quite expensive.

  • +10

    Lekker have a certain Euro minimalist styling and seem to be quality at a slight premium. This looks to be a good deal for a brand like this. I can see this as being perfect for someone in apartment who has no space for additional fluff. There gates drive means no lubricant, no oils, no maintenance. 8 speed shimano internals again will last a very long time before being looked at. You can change the gears when stationary and these gears are fine. It would be nice if the forks were carbon and my personal preference is for 700cc (29") rims over 650b (27.5") as the larger rims just roll easier, but the industry loves 650b at the moment on urban bikes. Tyres are a compromise and Scwarble Marathons or Conti Gatorskins would give this city bike even less maintenance. The brakes are full hydraulic where some cheaper ones are cable actuated so another plus. With full mudguards this bike could live in the basement of an apartment complex and never be cleaned or looked after but would happily ride the mean streets on a 5-10km commute day in/day out, year after year.

  • Is it a good bike to ride once or twice a week mainly for fitness purpose? I'll not be using it for commute to work.
    Or should I look for something else? Thank you for tips and recoomendations :)

    • +5

      For most non riders yes. Most people ride a bike until something goes wrong then complain about it and stop riding the bike. This bike is designed for very little to go wrong, ever. So you can ride it twice a week and ignore it the rest of the time and it will be fine. Just get a floor pump and makes sure you ride the tyres at the correct inflation. The gearing is only 8 speed so there will be jumps between the gears, but I'd guess you could do 20,000kms on this before even looking at replacing anything. (Tyres would wear out before then though).

    • +1

      Buy a Giant Cross City or a Trek FX or similar. Don't get a bike with a front suspension fork, get one with a carbon (composite) fork. Carbon fork is lighter, still compliant, and requires no maintenance.

      https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/bikes-cross-city-disc

      • Thank you, I'll checkout the bikes you recommended.

      • Carbon forks for a noob could be problematic.

        Drop the bike or do a bit of do it yourself maintenance without knowing the special “features” of carbon could be disastrous.

      • +1

        Yeah, Giants are great. Great warranty support. The Lekker is more stylish (subjective). The Lekker has Gates drive (belt drive) and internal 8 speed hub, both are very appealing for low maintenance. At the same price (with the Lekker on Sale) the Lekker has mud guards, kick stand and rack. For commuting it is by far the better bike stock. The Giant has 2 x 8 gears and mud guards.

      • Save heaps of weight with carbon forks and no suspension so plus 1 for that idea - carbon forks are tough enough

      • I've just bought a Trek FX2 for $499 on clearance. Had to spend extras for kickstand, lights, etc. Never heard of a belt drive until today!

        • May I ask where did you buy your Trek FX from and do they have any still in stock?

          • @Izz: From Just Ride Nerang. I think it was the only one for FX2 but they might have other models and they might be able to ship too, not sure.

      • carbon fork = rigid? suspension helps soak up the bumps on the roads.

        • +2

          It's not that simple @OzHan. Suspension is heavy, requires maintenance and adds cost. On this bike the 47mm tyre will have a lot of air volume to take the small buzz out of the road. Cheap bikes have alloy forks which are stiff and light and being stiff they are good for steering but also transmit a lot of buzz. Steel forks are very supple but aren't the best for steering, they are also heavy. Carbon forks are somewhere in the middle. Light like alloy but chop down some road buzz. There is no need for suspension on road bicycles (which is why they don't have it).

          • @scratchy: Granted I am not an expert on bikes, but most half decent ebikes come with suspension forks, if you only ride on decent paved flat roads of course no need for suspension or thick tyres. but for a lot of people they do also ride on footpaths, kerbs, lawns, roads with potholes.

            • +2

              @OzHan: Ebikes don't need to worry about weight as there is an engine. On this you are the engine. Competitive road bicycles have a tyre width of 25mm or 28 mm (they used to be 20mm). This bike has big 47mm tyres that have a lot more volume to cope with riding on footpaths, kerbs etc. The larger volume reduces the chances of pinch flats against potholes and the tread design of the WTB tyres with their herringbone design is for mild offroad use: https://www.gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-tech/review-wtb-horizo…

      • If its just a occasional ride in the weekends, something from reid or similar will do the job. Don't need to worry about it getting stolen when you get a coffee either.

        Just need to move beyond the BSO terrority.

        • +2

          I still ride my Gumtree Reid I bought for $90 second hand. 6 years on I've done zero maintenance on it. Only needs to go 4km round trip.

    • where will you be riding?

    • I've also been looking at this bike.
      https://www.bikesonline.com.au/2023-polygon-path-3-urban-cit…

      The purpose I need a bike for, what do you think, Path 3 or Amsterdam?
      @scratchy
      @eraser215

      • +1

        If you're riding for leisure then I'd say a conventional (chain) geared bike will be more fun. The belt drive bikes tend to be heavier and designed to be no fuss, bulletproof commuters or tourers. While Polygon is a good budget brand (very popular in se Asia) and make some very good high end models for what you're paying you can get more value. Someone has mentioned a trek fx 2 which is probably similar specs and at $499 excellent value.

      • I got the Path 3 fairly recently. In hindsight I think I would have rather paid more to get a higher-end bike. I ride daily to and from work. It's a fairly short-ride but I went from a road bike to the Path 3 and it just feels a bit more sluggish and effortful than I'm used to. This could be true of all commuter/urban bikes though. I think the Amsterdam looks great and I do like the no fuss design with the hub gears and belt drive.

  • +1

    This is very cheap for a belt drive, although bikes online have a sale on the Presidio 3 for about $1200, every September (from memory). The Presidio 3 is lighter.

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