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All metal body
Clone of Ender 3 3D printer
Seems to be a well reviewed 3D printer
Listed for $271 but with 22% off for black friday sale (ebay plus) comes down to $211.37
Voxelab Aquila X2 3D Printer $216.80 ($211.37 with eBay Plus) Delivered @ flashforge_3d_pro eBay
510
tanksinatra on 28/11/2022 - 19:46 ebay.com.au (2809 clicks)
Last edited 28/11/2022 - 20:12 by 1 other user
Last edited 28/11/2022 - 20:12 by 1 other user
This is part of Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals for 2022
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Very tempting at this price, but then it will require upgrades to be viable for many things. The hot end is very basic and can't handle many other filaments like nylon let alone carbon fibre mixes.
If you are new to 3D printing, you generally won't go straight to those materials. Best is to play with PLA while you learn how it all works and how to tune the machine etc. Walk before you run.
If you are going to print nylon and carbon fibre from the outset you arent a typical user - and in that case you should be looking at something much more expensive (enclosed, proper filters, hardened nozzle etc). I have never printed either and have a printer capable of same, but never a use case. Almost all users just print the easy stuff like PLA, PETG, ABS/ABS+ and TPU for a reason (though TPU can be a pita) .
For $211 its great value for money.
If a buyer then wants to move to a more expensive printer, there could be worse things than having a second printer around.
I had one of these for a couple of months and it was great. No issues at all and heaps of mods to choose from. I’ve since upgraded to an Ender 3 S1 Plus.
Yes, this has most of things people are likely to want to upgrade to, but it is more than twice the price.
Did you end up upgrading a lot on the x2 before going the s1? I want to buy this but I know I won't have time to tinker much so an S1 or similar fits better.
This is one of the problems with 3D printers, even when they work properly they are a major time vacuum.
"the ability to upgrade my printer is a bad thing"
"The ability to buy a cheap printer and upgrade its features to match that of a more expensive printer is a bad thing"
"The ability for me to decide for myself whether i spend time or money is a bad thing"
Upgraded it a lot. Parts are relatively cheap too. I mainly upgraded for the larger build volume. The X2 performed wonderfully.
Good to know. I'm trying to find out how much the extra upgrades would be so I can decide whether I should just go better models. How much do I absolutely need to spend to upgrade this to be usable?
@Villainous: Oh I was just seeing if I should go something more expensive that involves less mucking around. I don't mind paying a little more if it'll save me hours of stuffing around upgrading bits. But I've decided I'll just get this and maybe learn something or become furiously pissed off every time I look at it.
It seems the hotend and extruder are the main upgrades. BLtouch and upgraded fan might be nice but not necessary. Might only be an extra 40-50 on top so I think that's ok
@mit: If you're just getting started, my advice is buy this and don't "upgrade" anything until you've learned all the basics. Replacing parts can open a whole other can of worms. You can achieve professional results with this as is. Great printer.
@Villainous: Ok Thanks for that. I don't think that's said enough. I was gonna slurge but this is a cheap way to get started.
@mit: I know because that is exactly what I did when i got started. 3D printing is more like learning to bake. You can upgrade your pan, your spatula, your oven but if you don't master the fundamentals then you will always end up with a flop.
@Villainous: Nice. You should go write a blog post or something. Btw what filament do you recommend for this? I almost forgot I needed to get some
@mit: esun is a popular choice here
https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B094HNX5DT/?coliid=I1BY6KDS7BPX…I also like this yxpolyer as it has a nicer satin finish as opposed to the esun's wet gloss look
https://www.amazon.com.au/Filament-YXPOLYER-Dimensional-Accu…Either one will get you started and then you can explore from there
This seems to be better than Ender3 v2
Better deal or better product?
Both I believe.
Well thats annoying, I had just ordered the ender 3 v2 from the other deal
@CyberGenesys: Aquila X2 is an Ender 3 v2 clone, so you'll be good. Better support, and the build quality would be better I imagine.
@CyberGenesys: I don't think you should be annoyed - I've got two E3V2s, and I've had them for nearly 2 years now. They're awesome.
Also, installing a different firmware on them, such as Jyers makes them even better. I don't think you can do this on a Voxelab without swapping the mainboard to a creality board.
3d printer is only as good as the person tuning/upgrading it.
Unless it burns you house down ala anet a8. Ender is better supported but these i3 clones are all much of a muchess.
get the anycubic kobra if your trying to get into printing, its a super good printer and incredibly easy to get started with it.
Its similar to any one of a number of printers in that pricepoint. Hard to do badly if you look at featuresets nowdays.
I think this is the cheapest I've seen it since I bought my own. Definitely worth it at this price.
ah must have missed that one! still a good price now imo
Does this have auto levelling ?
nope
Maybe stretch to an Anycubic Vyper, which does. Also has a few other upgrades.
does not include it, but you can buy a BL/CR touch to add auto levelling
There's the similar spec Anycubic Kobra Go with auto bed levelling for $239 with the same coupon at the moment. It even includes a PEI springform plate which has been possibly the best upgrade on my old Prusa i3 clone. Kinda wishing I'd seen this one before hitting buy on the X2 because i really don't need a 3rd printer… do I?
No interest in this, just came here to upvote the meme figure that's been printed in the image!
Could an 11yo work this, thinking for a Xmas pressie?
If the 11yo is science + tech savvy then yes, if they aren't into this sort of "nerdy shit" then they won't be. Kid me would have been over the moon getting this as a 11yo and would have obsessively learnt how to use it and get the 3D prints I wanted out of it
It's a very cheap entry into 3DP, but be mindful that this will be the infamous H32 chip, which has been difficult to develop on and modify (a cheaper clone chip with limited memory that got substituted during the Rona chip shortages). As a result, third party firmware is thin on the ground. Alex from Alex's firmware had a go, and now it's apparently abandoned. Last released in March, and no open issues fixed since then.
Even official sources threw up their hands in the end, offering discounted N32 boards for replacement.
If you're a midlevel-tinkerer, you'll get infuriated with H32. However, you can bypass a lot of that with octoprint or klipper.
If you're just wanting to print from sdcard with vanilla features, it's a good buy.
If you're an uber-tinkerer, pick up third-party firmware development and show us some releases 😉
I have been tempted many times. But out of curiosity, what do you guys use it for? When I browse the web, I mostly see toyish figures/objects. I have kids 11 and 8, and I can imagine them liking it a lot. At the same reading the comments, it seems it needs an adult who also knows what he/she is doing. Anyway, interested in what people use it for.
I have this printer - i've used it for both functional prints, and fun stuff for my 4 year old. Some of the functional prints (and the main reason I got it) were for my boat - a wedge to go under my trolling motor mount so that it sits level to the water in PETG, dust/water covers for some electronics, covers for for drink holders to stop them filling with water when left (all in PLA+), grommets for wiring, a mount for the trolling motor to match the real mount on the boat so it can sit on the wall of the garage, and i'm sure there's more I'm forgetting. great little printer for sure
I had no idea why I bought one, and have no kids or CAD experience…. Would love to know how hard it is to create a cover for my fishing sounder or rod holders.. Don't know where to start either
i also had no CAD experience - but these days it's very accessible to learn. I like tinkercad - it's free, completely online, and very easy to use. there's ones with much more functionality that are also free (like onshape), but as someone with no CAD experience i've found it had a very steep learning curve and prefer the simplicity of tinkercad. i just watched a video on how to get started for the basics - but simple shapes like a sounder covers or rod holder covers will be very straightforward to design. sounder cover for example:
1) measure your sounder
2) create a rectangle maybe 2.5mm bigger in "solid"
3) create a second rectangle 1mm smaller on each axis in "hole". place it inside the first rectangle, then select them all and group (ctrl-g). this will basically cut the second rectangle out of the first one, leaving you with a shape which can fit over your sounder. you can get fancy with chevrons to round the edges etc. this is basically the same process I did for the dust cover for a flush mounted anderson plug:
https://imgur.com/a/jzBnj5uThen you just export it to .stl, import into your slicer and print. feel free to hit me up if you need any help, i'm certainly no expert but am willing to help
@JudgeRizzo: Literally just baiting for the 'hit me up if you need help', fish on! haha
Much appreciated my fellow fisho, I will see how I go when my machine arrives. Will defo shoot you a pm at some point when I get stuck.
Teaching Tech is a great aussie resource for 3D printing - here's a 10 minute video getting starting in tinkercad, which should be plenty enough to get started with simple designs like a sounder cover:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdvSzXByi_goh and one other thing - before designing anything yourself, always check thingiverse/printables etc cause maybe someone has already done the hard work for you. here's a sounder cover for a Lowrance hook2 7" for example https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3942024, here's one for 4" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2507174
These can just be downloaded directly to your slicer and printed, or you can open them and make changes to dimensions (click "remix it" in thingiverse) to fit what you need it for if there isn't an exact match
thanks!
Only 7 left, get in quick!
Did you receive yours yet? Did the seller use Aramex as the courier for you?
Mine hasnt moved or had an update in 7 days from the same aramex sorting facility in melbourne
Sorry late reply, yes mine arrived on Dec 7. Possibly Australia Post though. I did have some filament ordered through another seller that got stuck in a Fastway Melbourne-based warehouse for 3 weeks until I queried the seller about it. I hope yours has arrived by now.
just went to purchase and is sold out, bummer!
Showing more than 10 available again
awesome thanks! picked one up
Did you receive yours yet? Did the seller use Aramex as the courier for you?
Mine hasnt moved or had an update in 7 days from the same aramex sorting facility in melbourne
@Ash Bowden: Mine hasn't moved since Dec 2nd. Not too worried tho, deliveries have been getting a bit slower, im sure there was a lot to process through Black Friday sales
This or wait for the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro to come into stock for AU? (I know the price diff but worth it for all the extra bling?)
Secret to nylon printing is to rub a hot glue stick on the bed after levelling and dont heat the bed. No heat = no warp.
Hot glue stick as in a glue stick that has been heated (in a microwave?) or a stick of Hot glue (out of a hot glue gun)?
how do you print nylon with this printer? I thought it doesn't get hot enough?
Is it safe to assume this takes 1.75mm filament?
yep
Hey guys, I received my printer and I'm getting great prints out of it, both PLA and PETG. It was easy to assemble and is reasonably intuitive to use.
The hardest part is leveling the darn thing. The leveling has to be very precise or the filament won't fuse together. I found that I have to level with the paper under nozzle technique on a preheated bed repeated 2-3 times. Then printing a single-layer test pattern at the edges of the bed and making minor adjustments. I'm going to get some upgraded springs because the printer seems to lose its level. There doesn't seem to be a way to lock the level knobs in place and they are easy to bump which is annoying.
Other than that I'm very impressed by this printer.
I understand why these need to be leveled, I don't understand why after leveling they dont have a second nut above the level knobs to lock it in place. Is there some key aspect I don't understand as to why the bed needs to be left floating? I might try printing these or maybe just source some nuts for above the mount arm.
Ender 3 v2 (which I got instead) similarly loses level constantly. I have found that just paper leveling the once while cold has yeilded consistent results. Bed leveling has been the difference between success and failure on almost all my prints, mainly due to it correctly adhering the first layer.
I'm going to try lowering the Z-stop to increase the tension on the spring adjusters. I'm hoping that doing that should keep the bed in place.
I got a set of silicone columns very early on and haven't looked back. These lock the bed in place very nicely.
I just printed the precision bed leveling part that you linked and it doesn't fit the Aquila X2. The Aquila X2 seems to have symmetrical sides but the print has a slight angle on one side.
100% if you're thinking of getting into 3d printing, This is the one. I've had one since the last deal 2 months ago and it's brilliant.