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Bluetooth OBD2 V1.5 Car Diagnostic Interface Tool US $0.80 (AU $1.06) Delivered @ LightInTheBox

1280
GARZO101
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Another deal negotiated with the Rep

Haven't seen these posted in quite a while. Good little tool for simple diagnostics.

Popular previously Here & Here

Price is $0.80USD/$1.05AUD

Includes Free Shipping
Ships in 24 hours according to the listing
limited quantity: 500

$AUD based on current exchange rate, pay in US for lowest price.

Model: 9040001
Quantity: 1 Piece
Color: Blue
Material: Plastic
Function: Car diagnose
Technical Parameters: It supports all OBD-II protocols, Works with all OBD-II compliant vehicles
Operating Voltage: 12 V
Packing List: 1 x ELM327 diagnose tool, 1 x CD

Don't forget 2.5% cashback from Cashrewards

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closed Comments

  • Can this be used to clear a light that is on? Would I need anything else to actually read the message? Apologies for the noob questions.

    • +2

      Good app to use is 'Torque'. I wouldn't clear it, look at the error message and google it find out whats causing the light to come on.

      • Thanks mate. Had a mechanic already take a look and he couldn't find any faults. Error suggests fuel too lean or rich. Was suggested I use fuel cleaner so giving that a go but was told to clear the code to see if it would come back after. Spoke to a couple places and they want to 'book it in' to just clear the code. This is a cheaper option :)

        • You have a mechanic have a look at it and he tells you to delete the error? What kind of mechanic is he?

        • @dosada: the one that could not find any issues :) it was a fair comment in such a circumstance.

          dosada = boredom?

        • +5

          The mechanic said to try something, then clear the code. If it comes back then it hasn't fixed the problem, move on to plan B.

        • What was the code?

        • @tadere:

          Yes, boredom started it all :)

        • @amts: sorry mate, can't remember it now or find my notes.

        • @dosada:

          You have a mechanic have a look at it and he tells you to delete the error? What kind of mechanic is he?

          He used to be a doctor.

        • @dosada: I actually had the same thing and my mechanic said to clear and only be concerned if it came back. The O2 sensor can be really sensitive and extreme weather conditions or just one lesser quality batch of fuel etc. I ran 98 for a week with it cleared then back to 95 and it never came back so I guess he was right.

    • A warning light on dash?

      • Yep.

    • Assuming your car is OBD2 compatible, yep this can clear dash fault lights

      • Cheers mate. Wife's 2011 Mazda 3. Thinking it might be ok.

        • Yep it'll work with your car, try the Torque app as mentioned above, ive used it to check/ clear codes with no issues :)

        • +1

          @shapers: have downloaded it :) cheers mate

  • +2

    I have one of these that looks exactly the same. The price is better than what I paid so that's good but I couldn't get mine to work, it's just sitting in my drawer.

    • have you got the right app on phone or laptop to talk to your car? I know some Fords needed a particular app to make it work as they have a somewhat hybrid ODBII, some generic and some Ford proprietary codes is the issue with them at least.

      • Ford is supposed to be pretty standard. It is Holden that thinks they have special "secrets".

    • Would it pair? 6789 is the Pairing Code from memory.

    • I reckon these ones work on particular bluetooth versions (3 or below?). For me it works fine with an old android phone and windows machine but refuses to connect with most newer android phones.
      It can detect most OBDII and PCM (ford) codes as well.

  • -2

    Car Value < $3000 Buy this item. Great deal.
    Car Value > $3000 Get something better for phucks sake.

    • +17

      why? All it does is read codes. It doesnt tune it fer phucks sake.

      • +6

        lol, why the arbitrary amount of $3K?

      • -4

        It connects directly to your cars electrical system and computer management system. Not saying it's a bad deal if you drive a 2005 Commodore.

        • +8

          What if your 2005 Commodore cost exactly $3K?

        • -6

          @hugh:

          Than you decide. I like to give the people choice. My algorithm is fool proof.

        • OK, say you bought a late model Commodore that costs $2,999.
          Would you recommend this deal accordingly?

          Therefore by paying an extra $2 in the above case would change your recommendation from good deal to no "for phucks sake".

        • @hugh:

          Follow the algorithm. Answer is 'YES' due to value < $3000, because your late '2016' model Commodore you managed to buy for $2999 from the Salvage Car Auction is still a bomb.

        • @dreamscene:

          JK ;)

        • -6

          @hugh:

          :-) I am here for the Ozbargain Community and to save you and others from these land fill rubbish deals than will most likely ruin your life and get you a divorce or worse kicked out of your parents home.

        • -1

          @dreamscene:

          It connects directly to your cars electrical system and computer management system.

          So does a $2 light globe and a 0.50c fuse.
          It does not change the program, it can request it to reset the trouble light etc, at most. Request, not change it.

          I dont drive a Bogandore.

        • @dreamscene: What are you on about? OBD2 data is pretty cool real time let alone the service side.

        • @hugh: Please for Phuk sake factor in depreciation. If car still in lot, then yes, car driven a few meters, no

        • +1

          @bluntman:

          dreamscene had me in stitches with his rationale ;)

          made it even funnier by trying to justify himself…do people like him still exist?…yep, classic.

        • @hugh:

          Yup. 1 man. Too many smelly thumbs.

        • @dreamscene: 100 proof fool… works 50% just half the time.

        • @Tuba: i bet you do drive a bologna…

        • @Well Wasted:

          Is that a whale?

        • @dreamscene:no… it's your wife… you've had a stroke.

        • @Well Wasted:
          Don't buy it bro. This is junk will burn your car down. See below. No matter what my wife says.

  • +17

    Don't leave it connected in the car, I repeat DONT leave it connected in the car!

    Get the reading done and disconnect it immediately. My car almost burned, and the car was off, plastic from this crap was melting, stinking. Don't leave anything in your car connected, especially in the cigarette lighter etc.

    • Did you try to run gauges like boost or RPM?

    • That was lucky!

      Was considering this as it is cheap.. But I do not want this to happen.

      Plan was to leave it plugged in and use this as a quick scan tool and bring out the VAGCOM (Ross-Tech VCDS) for when I need to clear codes, or when I need to change values/code keys, and more complex stuff

      EDIT: I just caved, lets see how it goes.

    • +5

      I have two connected, one on each car and never had any issues. They have been there about 3 years now

    • +5

      Some OBD2 ports are powered even with ignition off, so I have to disconnect mine or risk discharging the battery.

      • They are all supposed to be. Probably OK if you drive everyday. I don't and flatened a battery when I forgot to unplug(the battery was on its last legs and gave up shortly after tho).
        You can also wire in a relay to the power pin so it then only runs when the key is turned.

        • only europeans obd2 ports are always connected

        • @Polo89: Odd that it is the same with Australian vehicles.

    • I've had a similar one connected to my Golf for 2 years now, and it was connected to my Polo for a year before that. Torque runs in the background whenever I get in the car and logs everything. I've maybe unplugged it 3 times in 2 years and never had an issue. Torque is one of the only apps I've payed full price for

      I've also used it to check error codes on my wife's old car when we couldn't work out what was going on with the fuel system.

  • +1

    These are good little gadgets. I got one a while back that kept dropping the bluetooth connection. Hopefully this works better.

  • Thanks OP. Seemed like pretty good for a dollar(ish)

    • -5

      No it's not. Don't do it, you are encouraging rubbish land fill items to be listed here.

      • +1

        "Rubbish land fill items"

        I have had an item almost identical to this for over three years, and it continues to work brilliantly.

      • WTF? We have rising sea levels, so we need more landfill.

      • if i don't get my car fixed… it itself will end up as landfill.

  • Will this work with Toyota Kluger?

    • Will depend on what year.

      OBDII standards became mandatory in 1996, however some model runs began before 1996 and ran until after (eg from 1994-1999) and thus don't follow OBDII compliance, these vehicles either use OBD1 or their own proprietary connectors/diagnostic systems.

      Google your model and year + OBDII, answer in 30 seconds.

      • +2

        from memory i believe it was mandatory in the US in 96, we were a couple of years later

        • US: mandatory 1996.
          EU: mandatory 2001 for petrol engined cars and 2003 for diesel engined cars.
          Australia: mandatory 2006

          We got there in the end.
          Some cards sold in Australia prior to 2006 will have the port and some will not.

      • for anyone looking.. it works on AU Ford Falcon (MY 1999)

  • +1

    If you ever plan to buy a used car- get this.

    Any car manufactured after the year 2000 has an ODB port. When buying a second hand, use this + Android phone + Torque Pro app.

    You'll see any faults the car has after a short test drive. No BS.

    Could save you $1000's

    • +6

      ah yes the ol' dirty bastard port

    • +2

      Some post 2000 vehicles are still M-OBD.

    • +1

      "Honesly. Get this."

      Sure thing, "expert". A friend of mine used one of those cheap tools and almost burned his Mazda's electronics. It definely could cost you $1000's to fix afterwards.

      • almost burned? does they make these in asbestos?

        • almost burned? do they make these in asbestos?

      • "almost burned" So it didn't burn? So no damage then. Great story.

        • I'd accept that it "almost burned" the electronics if it burned out a fuse instead.

        • Almost burned means error indicators came up, like Check Engine and others. Didn't dissapear after removing the tool. He had to take his car back to the dealer claming he knew nothing about what had happened.

        • @pupkin: The whole point of this tool is so you can check what the 'Check Engine' lights mean…and reset if appropriate. It doesn't create warnings. This sounds like a PBKAC error.

        • @Quarn:In my friend's situation it did create warnings and problems. Try it in your car please, but stop telling other it's perfectly safe to use because it's not.

        • @pupkin: I have used it many times, on many cars.. So stop telling people that it's a dangerous product because 'a friend', who clearly couldn't understand the functioning of the product, 'almost burned his Mazda'. Remember nothing is foolproof, because fools are so ingenious.

    • +1

      This is false. Your car must be fully OBD2 compliant for this tool to pick up codes. Eg ls1 Commodores can read engine data but not engine codes & v6 Commodores up until the VZ still use ALDL so this will not work.

    • In saying this no-this won't diagnose every single fault. Not by any stretch.

      But it's better than being entirely "in the dark" about it.

      Yes- still get a mechanic to look over your car in the pits. But this is a first point of assessment- I saw many cars I didn't bother with a mechanic about because the OBD gave some narly faults.

      FYI: For beginners, drive the car for a while first

  • $3.72 Now?

    • Did you use the code?

      • +3

        Can't find where to enter the code -_-

        Edit*

        At the bottom of the check out page, like way further than you'd think. 'Ctrl + F "Coupon"'

  • Am confused. Cannot for the life of me find where to enter the code.

    • +3

      Add to card > Proceed to checkout > "Apply Coupon Code" which is under payment method

      • +1

        Cheers

    • At the bottom of where you choose payment type.

      LPT: just search the word “coupon” on the checkout page.

      • +1

        Cheers, just did that as I got these replies.

        They hid that sucker wayyyy down the bottom.

  • looks like this
    Subtotal( 1 item ):AUD $ 3.72
    (+) Shipping Charges:AUD $ 2.62
    (-) Coupon Savings:AUD $ -2.61
    3.73

  • How long would it take to have this delivered?

  • +1

    Does anyone know the difference between item listed above and this one is it just better build quality or is there any other difference? price diff does not seem to be much so worth considering if the latter has any additional features.

    • no real difference the elm327 is the chip.

      • thanks.

      • +2

        Well not really, it is a rip off programmed chip.

      • +1

        Apparently all the rip offs are not the same.

        Dissection of a counterfeit ELM327 OBDII Adapter from China

      • +1

        Well, there are different revisions of the chip that have improved functionality over time.

        The V1.5 mentioned in the title of this reader is essentially meaningless as the only ELM327 versions that have been produced are 1.0, 1.3a, 1.4b, 2.1 and 2.2. Most of these Chinese cheapies are 1.0 clones as that version did not use the copy protection functionality of the PIC microcontroller so they were easily cloned.

        The best revisions are 1.4b and above as they all have a low power (sleep) mode. This is probably the most important practical difference as if you leave the controller connected when you turn the ignition off it won't continue to drain your battery to the same extent as the 1.0 and 1.3a versions. More info here if you're interested.

        From memory the Jaycar OBD2 scanners that they have for about $70 are version 1.4b. That's the price difference between counterfeit and fake in this instance. It's basically impossible to know what versions any of the ones you get off eBay are but it's fair to assume that most will be 1.0 clones unless they're a reputable brand and/or they specifically mention the version in the description (remembering V1.5 means nothing).

    • If the first one you try doesn't work on your car, try a different one.

      Some guys at work had issues with their model of car. They were bringing them in and swapping them until they found one that was compatible. Some cars seem to accept all adapters, while others were fussy.

  • Got one, all good as per post details. Now wait a month or so to see if it works.

  • This unit doesn't work with every car, in fact it won't work with most cars. If you do get it to work it will be able to give you the reading of the sensors' output given to the ECU, but you can not delete any error codes or "tune" the engine. However t is worth giving it a try at the given price not much to lose.

    • Funny, I have deleted quite a few codes with mine via Torque on quite a few cars. Despite the horror stories of "my friend burnt his car with this" it is fine to reset most errors once they are not going to cause damage if they were real errors. Gremlins are common in electronics.
      …and all cars were over $3k, including a 3 year old X5 (now don't buy one of those! When they error you cant even roll the car out of the way, diff locks solid)

    • These are dumb bridging devices and it is the software that is the problem. I could get no free PC software to work on a VZ commodore(was fine on Ford), using a USB, serial or bluetooth version. Tried Torque and all was good.

  • I have one of these, does nothing! Which app do you use? What does it do?

    • it won't connect to most cars.I use the TORQUE app free version. it reads the battery voltage, coolant temperature, air flow, pretty much anything that has output connected to a sensor, depends on you vehicle

  • exceed limit..

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