• out of stock

Dell XPS 8940 Desktop 10th Gen i7-10700k 16GB RAM 1TB SSD NVIDIA RTX 3070 $1999.20 (was $3999) Delivered @ Dell eBay


Black Friday continues with this Dell XPS 8940 on sale via eBay. Choice of 1 year or 3 year warranty, good configuration that has an RTX 3070. For half price, you can't go wrong! 😍


Dell XPS 8940 Plus 3 year warranty @ $2165.22 (10 Units): Go To Deal
Dell XPS 8940 Plus 1 year warranty @ $1999.20 (26 Units): Go To Deal


Colour: Black
Form Factor: Tower
Processor: 10th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-10700K processor
Operating System: Windows 10 Home (64 bit) English
Video Card: Nvidia GeForce RTX 3070
Memory: 16GB, 2x8GB, DDR4, 2933Mhz
Hard Drive: 1TB SSD + 2TB HDD
Power Supply: 500w
Warranty: 1Yr Ltd Hardware Warranty InHome Service after Remote Diagnosis
Wireless: Killer™ Wi-Fi 6 AX1650i (2x2) 802.11ax Wireless and Bluetooth 5.1
Accessories: Dell Wired Keyboard KB216 Black (English) + Wired Mouse MS116


When will item(s) be shipped?
Estimated shipping (usually sooner): between 10 December - 22 December.

What warranty do I have?
These units come with 1 year or 3 year Dell warranty respectively. If you need extended warranty, contact the seller before purchase.

Will swapping out components affect my warranty?
If your components don't cause the issue, you are still covered by Dell warranty.

Need a good monitor to go with your new Dell PC? Check out these bad boys! 🔥 Happy OzBargaining! Original Coupon Deal

This is part of Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals for 2020

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closed Comments


      Me three


    Is F2 the key to access the XPS8940 bios while restarting?

    Also is anybody dual-booting Ubuntu or got Ubuntu running on VirtualBox?

    F2 doesn't work here and VirtualBox w/Ubuntu 20.10 fails to start


      Turns out it's F12, pressing BEFORE the Dell logo appears
      Could have put that in the manual

  • +9 votes

    CPU Cooler replacement done. Stock cooler replaced with Noctua NH-U9S plus an additional fan (2 in total) combined with the NF-A9 case fan. I will add a 120mm Slim Noctua NF-A12x15 to the front of the case eventually but will wait until the Boxing Day madness is over.

    The only additional purchase I needed was M3 screws and M3 washers from Bunnings. Ideally, M3 x 20mm screws would be ideal but Bunnings only had 15mm and 25mm. As I couldn't have been bothered getting the grinder out, I simply added 5 washers to each screw and used the 25mm ones. It worked a treat.

    The included splitter is what I used to connect both fans to the cpu fan header. Case fan to the same system fan header. No issues booting. Will do benchmarks soon. Quieter so far.

    As you can see from the pics, installing a fan at the front near the graphics card will be a tight fit. Shall see if there is a need.

    Gaming sits in the 70's, CPU benchmarking hits about 87, 13 degrees down from before. I will get another front case fan and see how that goes. Then again, today is actually a warm day, which I hadn't had in past benchmarking. Overall, happy with the drop in temps.



      This is great work, thanks for sharing. I believe I'll be next with the same configuration, the only issue would be that the front fan might still be needed.

      I'm currently having an external fan 120 mm at the front with the OOB fans is reducing the temp at least 5.°

      I saw that you have removed the HDD, has this help with the air flow?


        Yes as with it moved to the top bay and the front HD rack removed, there is space for the 120mm fan. Plus, there isn’t the drive in the way.


          How much clearance for the front fan mate? Im looking at a high airflow noctua but its 25mm wide…

    • +1 vote

      Most Jaycar have both 15mm and 20 mm m3 screws in stock. I installed mine with 15 mm screws without washers, feel secured but 16 mm would have been better. Playing Cyberpunk With NH U9S and 2 extra nf 9s fans, one of the cores would get up to 98c at some point during gaming session monitoring with Coretemp . But with nxzt cam the average cpu temp is about 73-78c most of the time and occasionally up to 84c than cools down again quickly.An issue I noticed is that Coretemp and Speedfan are not able to detect the fans and read the speed, I am using the Y splitter for the 2 cpu fans connected top cpu header and the exhaust fan connected the the bottom header.

    • +1 vote

      This may sound stupid…but why not keep the case open and maybe point a pedistal fan tpward open cpu while playing games like cyberpunk???


      What games are you running on this? I have the exact same setup but running something like assassin's creed odyssey for anything more than an hour sees temps in the 80s-90s


    Has anyone tried replacing the stock CPU cooler fan (embedded within the cooler) with a Noctua NF-A9 and done a temperature comparison?

    I have a hunch that the CPU temps will drop significantly, not to Noctua NH-U9S levels but maybe half way.

    • +1 vote

      There is a difference of 3 to 5 heat pipes and the ability to easily have two fans on the Noctua. It may help just replacing the fan but hasn’t tried it.


        I'm a bit skeptical as to whether having two fans versus one on the Noctua makes any significant difference? As long as airflow is going over the fins then not sure another fan in series will add that much more air velocity at the same RPM.


    We dont play lots of FPS but kids can't get temps > 50 degrees playing WoW.

    I am using Core Temp 1.16 to measure.

  • +1 vote

    Would just replacing the stock thermal paste with artic 4 be of any help to temps?
    Not really interested in spending more money on this thing to replace fans etc and just want to use what I already got.

    • +5 votes

      As somebody who was into OC'ing from the late 90's to 10's, hell I still OC everything I can, just don't spend weeks trying to get the best possible OC, I can give you the following:
      1.- Most paste is ~ the same… sure there are some goops you can;t even buy that vendors lather on.
      2.- The way it's applied is more important, remember the objective is to maximize the surface contact CPU<>sink, paste is to fill in gaps between the ostensibly flat surfaces… I've gotten better results without paste, but they were flat.
      3.- You need airflow or water flow to reduce temps. the more the merrier.

      The XPS is a tiny case with PSU, NVME, 3070, hot VRMs & 10700k… you're only real option is to drill/cut holes or open the side. Just run cinebench for 10mins with the side panel off/on and tell me what difference it made.
      Sure a Noctua HS will help, but you still need to get the air in and out.

      So in answer to your question, it may help depending on how bad they applied the paste. I've repasted 4 laptops and it's made very little difference, maybe 1-2c. It's also a little harder to measure, as a good paste will transfer heat quickly and then level out to pretty like every other paste… so good paste from my experience helps w/ short CPU spikes, but not much on sustained load.
      I remember repasting an EVGA GTX1070, which had paste everywhere and it made a bit more difference.


        Really clear and informative post. Thank you


        So just leaving the side panel off during summer would be the go??


          Test it and tell me.
          If it still throttles w/ the panel off, then you need to start forcing air with a fan(s), and/or replace the heat sink.


        Panel off and a small $2 external mini pedestal fan from bargain shop pointed at CPU heatsink (turned on while gaming). I know it will look crappy but my casing in under the table in corner so that will cover the ugliness (for those whom it matters)


      Move the HDD from the front tray to the top and remove the tray completely then add a cheap $10 intake fan there -5°c.


        I'm not seeing a lot of in take holes in the front panel, the lower part has some.
        Since ventilation is poor you will increase noise and cause negative pressure which will cause an accumulation of that tacky dust which will need to be cleaned regularly.
        Blowing on to the CPU/GPU will be positive pressure which should keep it clean(er)… I always aim for slightly positive, usually by either increasing rpm or fans size.

        I think a good case would have 6 140mm slow/high cfm fans… In: 1 front, 2 bottom; Exhaust: 1 rear, 2 top radiator.
        The 8940, 1x80mm rear…wtf.

        And why are fans so expensive now? $50 for a 92mm Noctua… I was buying these for ~$15.


          Are you guys getting high temps by stress testing or under your normal usage?

          Mine stays at a cool 50 degrees playing WoW.

          I’m yet to video edit with it…


            @Serpeant: On cyberpunk it hovers around 76° and peaks at over 90° at times, in AC valhalla 70°


              @Quickshot: Can you try the latest bios upgrade and comment if you saw any improvements?


    anyone recommend a game controller for this?
    i just saw this
    is it any good?

    I have been meaning to play catchup on alot of games i have missed. Mostly GTA, Batman, Tomb raider, NBA.


      I've just been using a ps4 controller


      Xbox one controller here. Works really well with Windows 10.


    Yay arrived today - seems all good
    Flashing light at back ? is that just drive or something wrong ?

    • +2 votes

      That’s disk activity led. All good there.


        Thanks for confirming

  • +1 vote

    Hi All,

    Dell has released a new Bios upgrade, a major one that seems to have improved (reduced) the CPU and Gpu temperature.

    Not sure the impact on performance degradation so it might be good to run some test before and after the upgrade to get real numbers.

    From a gaming perspective I was playing already over 70 fps so I cannot notice the difference.

  • +1 vote

    Does anyone find the Dell 8940 very noisy?

    It's a crackling noise like the HDD is spinning, even though the maid drive is a SSD.


      There is still a hard drive there and it is, if not moved by you, right at the front of the case so quite audible.

  • +1 vote

    Hey Ya'll. Proud owner here, much to the bemusement of my gaming friends.

    Undervolting the 3070 right now to reduce temps and fan noise, which will coincide with the power-supply quite nicely.

    Prevented the CPU Boost, to mitigate heat. I'm genuinely trying not to install an additional cooler. (it would be wiser)

    Been stuck on a 60hz monitor until my new dell one arrives, at which point i'll decide between 144/165hz + gysnc.

    It's handling everything very well. Cyberpunk included, at 1440p upscaled from 1080p, and everything on highest. Runs louder than a jet on Flight Simulator however.

    Had to stuff around with the Realtek drivers and Waves nonsense. Basically, you have to live with Waves. Just turn everything off.

    Looking forward to winter with this guy! - Absolutely no heater required!

    Sorry about the ramble. If anyone wants to chat tactics here, or in message, please hit me up. I love this little guy. Very grateful for the post and purchase. Thank you very much!

    • +1 vote


      Just thought this bit of reading may help someone out.

      Also, do we have any idea what brand the 3070 is? After some attempted digging, i'm lead to believe that it's simply a dell-branded generic one?

    • +1 vote

      Appreciate the post. Could you elaborate on the Waves stuff a bit? I'd create a forum post for all these tips but am on mobile…


        I had some issues with Cyberpunk and bluetooth headphones, where I'd get some horrible static noise coming through. It's quite particular for Cyberpunk. There's a lot of fixes, including disabling equalizers and changing sample rate and bit depth in Sound Properties + Advanced. Those fixes didn't apply to my set of headphones.

        Trying to fix that took me down a rabbit-hole of attempting to replace the Realtek Drivers with Microsoft ones, to remove the Waves App/process from windows (it has extra equalizers, and there appears to be a lot of problems with laptop speakers and Waves, and additionally CPU consumption)

        But Waves is embedded into Realtek and Dell, and without completely wiping the system with a fresh start from the beginning, you just can't get rid of it. You can disable the process from both startup and Computer Management - Services, but after trying all kinds of tricks, basically living with it and disabling everything from the App is the compromised way to go.

        Trying to have a clean, bloatware free system, was just a pipe-dream without doing it at the start. But in the end, it's okay!

  • +3 votes

    Made a Forum Post for Discussion

    Feel free to contribute.


    In case anyone else is on this path:
    I wanted more RAM, checked on Crucial compatibility website which said this would work:

    Unfortunately combining the original RAM plus 2x16Gb of the new RAM makes the system run at 2400MHz. Also, when you install extra RAM the first boot will fail to POST. Don't worry, works on the second try. I tried a few combinations and it just doesn't like mixing the RAM sticks. Yes, I've got the updated BIOS.

    original 2 x 8Gb = 2933MHz
    original 2 x 8Gb + new 2 x 16Gb = 2400MHz
    new 2 x 16Gb = 2933MHz

    Sooo I now have 2 sticks of original Dell 8Gb RAM which I don't need. If anyone wants them PM me and make me an offer.


      The original RAM in the machine is actually 3200, though with the combination of CPU and Board they use, 2933 is the maximum. The RAM needs to support 2933 as JEDEC spec, not XMP for it to be 2933 though.

      Obviously this is another issue which is odd. I guess when I go to upgrade, the old RAM will go out the window too.